New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work
I¡¯m great full that this group exist! I was given a pair of DQ10 speaker. The owner was going to throw then away. I hooked them up and they work. They still sounded worth saving even with incorrect blow woofers and mix matched tweeters. Someone also spray painted most of it black. The screens are in good shape. I am going to rebuild the woofer enclosure, thanks to the schematics in this group. I¡¯m looking at purchasing new woofers and tweeters and rewire both speakers. I would like guidance from the experts. Thank you in advance.
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Pair of DQ-10 stands and two DQ-1w for sale NYC AREA
hi everyone Happy Thanksgiving everyone ... I am in brooklyn, NY .... pair of DQ-10s and stands ( rebuilt) woofers refoamed by miller sound....? mirror image set? all good to go plus two D-1w all for 600$ Best regards BIll Sohne bsohne5@...
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Re: Pair of DQ-10 or DQ-20s For Sale in Arizona
Hi
just to jump in as I am in Brooklyn, NY?? I have a pair of DQ-10s mirror image set woofer souround redone by miller sound... and the roman col stands reuild last year.?? Plus two DQ-1W all good to go? 600$ ...
Be safe
Bill
bsohne5@...
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Re: Pair of DQ-10 or DQ-20s For Sale in Arizona
Glendale Arizona 85308 area code.
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 5:40 PM, richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote: Wheee are you located? I hope this is ok to post here: Time to thin the herd a bit. DQ-10s in great shape, all drivers good, with original stands and all original documents. Replacement DT-94 tweeters, (but I can give you originals with one working driver) original factory upgraded mylar crossovers but not mirrored and I think I also have the original boxes in storage. One grill has one small pencil eraser size hole, but it's not noticible, wood and badges great? condition. Advent woofers rebuilt about 7 years ago. DQ-20s all original with replacement aluminum floor spikes (originals can be provided). Wood is good and grill has a few snags and scrapes, but really not noticible from a? few feet away. All original cross overs, all original drivers are good. Advent style woofer rebuilt about 5 years ago. Both sets have been well taken care of and always been in an air conditioned room?since at least the mid 90s when I got them. No disappointments. $400 cash no trades for either pair.
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Re: Pair of DQ-10 or DQ-20s For Sale in Arizona
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I hope this is ok to post here: Time to thin the herd a bit. DQ-10s in great shape, all drivers good, with original stands and all original documents. Replacement DT-94 tweeters, (but I can give you originals with one working driver) original factory upgraded mylar crossovers but not mirrored and I think I also have the original boxes in storage. One grill has one small pencil eraser size hole, but it's not noticible, wood and badges great? condition. Advent woofers rebuilt about 7 years ago. DQ-20s all original with replacement aluminum floor spikes (originals can be provided). Wood is good and grill has a few snags and scrapes, but really not noticible from a? few feet away. All original cross overs, all original drivers are good. Advent style woofer rebuilt about 5 years ago. Both sets have been well taken care of and always been in an air conditioned room?since at least the mid 90s when I got them. No disappointments. $400 cash no trades for either pair.
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Pair of DQ-10 or DQ-20s For Sale in Arizona
I hope this is ok to post here: Time to thin the herd a bit. DQ-10s in great shape, all drivers good, with original stands and all original documents. Replacement DT-94 tweeters, (but I can give you originals with one working driver) original factory upgraded mylar crossovers but not mirrored and I think I also have the original boxes in storage. One grill has one small pencil eraser size hole, but it's not noticible, wood and badges great? condition. Advent woofers rebuilt about 7 years ago. DQ-20s all original with replacement aluminum floor spikes (originals can be provided). Wood is good and grill has a few snags and scrapes, but really not noticible from a? few feet away. All original cross overs, all original drivers are good. Advent style woofer rebuilt about 5 years ago. Both sets have been well taken care of and always been in an air conditioned room?since at least the mid 90s when I got them. No disappointments. $400 cash no trades for either pair.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
OK, and I still need to somehow test the driver so i can confirm its either the driver or a blown cap.?
They are at another location. I want to see if mine are left or right as u need left? I¡¯ll have to look up what I paid for each of them Hi Richard - I responded yesterday asking how much you'd want for the Left speaker board. Just following up.
William
MIrrored pair, its the left speaker.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
They are at another location. I want to see if mine are left or right as u need left? I¡¯ll have to look up what I paid for each of them
Hi Richard - I responded yesterday asking how much you'd want for the Left speaker board. Just following up.
William
MIrrored pair, its the left speaker.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Hi Richard - I responded yesterday asking how much you'd want for the Left speaker board. Just following up.
William
MIrrored pair, its the left speaker.
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2 sets of DQ-10s and 2 Subs in DFW area
There are two sets of DQ-10¡¯s and 2 DQ-1W¡¯s at
Dallas Vintage Audio. One DQ-10 set has a massive re-engineered crossover. The other set is a bit rough but probably good for parts.?
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Re: Interesting ad - I'm not connected
No problem sharing since they may be of interesting to someone if local.
Those "subs" are actually Tannoy dual-concentric speakers (ceramic magnet versions to judge by the frame) in home made enclosures, looks like.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Been a lot of years since I had to pull one from one of my pairs of DQ-10s to affect a repair, but I seem to recall using a combination of unwaxed dental floss slipped behind the frame to cut it loose of the black adhesive and a knife to pry that last little bit. I left the felt in place so I wouldn't have to worry about gluing it back in place since the rest was already needed to pull the driver regardless. As for testing the driver, you can follow the leads (yellow and black) down to the crossover and measure it there. Though the crossover is series, the 80uF cap (provided it's good) should make sure you're testing the DC resistance of just the driver. (I think, tired brain tonight and may be saying something stupid there, but won't hurt to check.) If nothing else, you can unsolder one and be extra sure.
?
It would be interesting to see how the T/S parameters change with foam. Unfortunately, I've not run across those parameters just yet for a proper comparison. Qms will definitely be the question and Qts will follow what it does. This is something that frustrates me with vintage drivers: the suspensions stiffen and soften in ways unpredictable except in that they will all be way off the original specs. For good drivers, I've taken to just reconing and minimizing that headache as I've done with the Tannoys in my collection.
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Re: Interesting ad - I'm not connected
Nice! So what subs are those?
DD
I hope it's OK to share this.
I have no connection, but if I didn't have DQ-20 and DQ-10 I might be responding
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Agreed foam will have a different compliance. Plus they are likely genetic. But the oems have produced at least 25 years of proper service. Which by todays standards is definitely above average. I might rebuild a pair with the foam to see how they do. But I bet being thinner that the lifespan is even shorter than the woofer surrounds.?
DD
On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 2:53 PM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: There are replacement foam surrounds for the AD5060/W8:?
?
However, I seriously doubt they're an exact match. Foam vs. rubber is a materials choice, even when compliance is matched, done for damping characteristics and the acoustic impedance match between the surround and cone to control cone resonances. (A mismatch can reflect resonances back into the cone amplifying the issue.) I'd be worried about how far off the foam surround is especially when chosen just because it fits the dimensions. Still, if you're stuck with two dries with shot surrounds and are having difficulty sourcing replacements, it's better than nothing. Might be worth measuring the parameters to see if the difference isn't too horrible to be worthwhile.
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Interesting ad - I'm not connected
I hope it's OK to share this.
I have no connection, but if I didn't have DQ-20 and DQ-10 I might be responding
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1311113952564630
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Alternatively, can I simply apply two leads from some source to the connecting wires (yellow and brown on original xover) to confirm its the driver before I go to the trouble of pulling it?
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Is there any "correct" way to remove this driver from the baffle? Noticed it is not just screwed but also glued in place. Then there's the felt backing glued to the back. I could?just go at it but figured someone might know the best way to minimize any collateral damage to the board.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
There are replacement foam surrounds for the AD5060/W8:?
?
However, I seriously doubt they're an exact match. Foam vs. rubber is a materials choice, even when compliance is matched, done for damping characteristics and the acoustic impedance match between the surround and cone to control cone resonances. (A mismatch can reflect resonances back into the cone amplifying the issue.) I'd be worried about how far off the foam surround is especially when chosen just because it fits the dimensions. Still, if you're stuck with two dries with shot surrounds and are having difficulty sourcing replacements, it's better than nothing. Might be worth measuring the parameters to see if the difference isn't too horrible to be worthwhile.
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Great info! It sure would be nice if fresh oem surrounds existed on the market. They would not be very difficult to replace. But would need to be the same thickness, roll dimensions, etc. Butyl would be even better. I'd luv to replace mine. Just like with the woofers if you install the incorrect surrounds it will degrade performance.
The easiest method for testing acoustical output is to use a SPL meter. A vintage analog or digital RS model works just fine. And also detects the super tweets.?
These occasionally show up locally on CL for $10up. I've used the digital version for decades and it has proven to be a great asset.
DD
On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 1:20 PM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: All part of the frustration with vintage drivers. Everything is suffering age related degradation regardless of materials, so you have to be extra careful to get something not obviously degraded. Then there's the other issue of how they've been treated by the seller. Too many think you can "fix" stiff rubber surrounds with brake fluid, ArmorAll, etc and end up with something that's half melted and far out of spec. If it seems too soft and pliable, it may not have the intended designed compliance. The aging of rubber cannot be reversed with magic elixirs, unfortunately. Once the plasticizers migrate out, the long chain polymers break and the rubber starts crystalizing, that's it. Anything that softens it is just acting as a solvent and doing more harm than good. So, if you see something that does look good, make sure there's no mention in the description of having been 'freshened up', 'surrounds treated with...', etc or it won't be what the design calls for.
You'll also need to be careful about the age. The first 1200 or so DQ-10s used the earlier production AD5060/W8s with the dusky orange dust cap. These actually have different specs (lower Fs, etc) than the later production with the darker dustcaps. While they might be within tolerance, especially with age stiffening their surrounds, they may also be too far out. The DQ-10s these were used with had fairly different crossovers in the bass legs that included them.
Also, be absolutely sure you're getting /W8s. Philips number scheme was such that very different types of drivers would have the same initial numbers with the differentiation coming with those last two characters. The numbers before just indicated frame size and magnet material. So, AD5060/SQ8s cannot be substituted for AD5060/W8s. They're very different drivers. The latter that you're looking for is a woofer, the other a midrange. The AD5060/M8, in turn, is a full-range driver and, again, very different parameters. You need the AD5060/W8 with these specs:?/g/DahlquistSpeakers/wiki/23812
The Philips driver numbering scheme, for reference:
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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?
Found a bit better representation of the Philips driver numbering scheme and what it means in my files: 
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MattB
SpongeSound