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Re: Is the Binks tool designed to isolate speakers that aren't working?


 

Great info! It sure would be nice if fresh oem surrounds existed on the market. They would not be very difficult to replace. But would need to be the same thickness, roll dimensions, etc. Butyl would be even better. I'd luv to replace mine. Just like with the woofers if you install the incorrect surrounds it will degrade performance.

The easiest method for testing acoustical output is to use a SPL meter. A vintage analog or digital RS model works just fine. And also detects the super tweets.?

These occasionally show up locally on CL for $10up. I've used the digital version for decades and it has proven to be a great asset.

DD



On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 1:20 PM John van Son <jpvanson@...> wrote:
All part of the frustration with vintage drivers. Everything is suffering age related degradation regardless of materials, so you have to be extra careful to get something not obviously degraded. Then there's the other issue of how they've been treated by the seller. Too many think you can "fix" stiff rubber surrounds with brake fluid, ArmorAll, etc and end up with something that's half melted and far out of spec. If it seems too soft and pliable, it may not have the intended designed compliance. The aging of rubber cannot be reversed with magic elixirs, unfortunately. Once the plasticizers migrate out, the long chain polymers break and the rubber starts crystalizing, that's it. Anything that softens it is just acting as a solvent and doing more harm than good. So, if you see something that does look good, make sure there's no mention in the description of having been 'freshened up', 'surrounds treated with...', etc or it won't be what the design calls for.

You'll also need to be careful about the age. The first 1200 or so DQ-10s used the earlier production AD5060/W8s with the dusky orange dust cap. These actually have different specs (lower Fs, etc) than the later production with the darker dustcaps. While they might be within tolerance, especially with age stiffening their surrounds, they may also be too far out. The DQ-10s these were used with had fairly different crossovers in the bass legs that included them.

Also, be absolutely sure you're getting /W8s. Philips number scheme was such that very different types of drivers would have the same initial numbers with the differentiation coming with those last two characters. The numbers before just indicated frame size and magnet material. So, AD5060/SQ8s cannot be substituted for AD5060/W8s. They're very different drivers. The latter that you're looking for is a woofer, the other a midrange. The AD5060/M8, in turn, is a full-range driver and, again, very different parameters. You need the AD5060/W8 with these specs:?/g/DahlquistSpeakers/wiki/23812

The Philips driver numbering scheme, for reference:

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