The Regnar kit does use fairly basic components, standard wirewound resistors, Solens capacitors with a sticker over the label to disguise them, etc. Still, though not of the more expensive brands or some sort of exotic boutique type, they are perfectly solid, good parts to use. In fact, if you go with boutique components, performance might decrease as many of those diverge from good engineering practice to chase some woo philosophy that has no merits in actual electronics theory. (Unsealed carbon comp resistors that'll change value as humidity changes, fancy foil in oil caps that are wound so loosely as to be microphonic, etc.) More conventional resistors as you have are well-understood and among the least reactive components in a typical speaker crossover. Going with non-inductive types would be a small improvement, but not significant enough to merit the cost when you've already invested in newer.
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The only thing I'd consider with the resistors since you've already refreshed the crossovers would be to uprate the two 4ohm resistors in the woofer section to some with a higher power rating. I suggest that due to my experience with a pair of DQ-10s that had, at one point, suffered an incident with the crossover boards catching due to those two getting too hot. (Both speakers had the masonite burn through beneath those resistors and were covered in the residue of the beer that was apparently used to end the impromptu Arthur Brown performance.) That, however, is an extreme case and resulted in the woofers being fried. So, it's unlikely you'll push yours so hard.
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Whatever you decide, you needn't worry about changing the sonic signature of the speakers for the worse. The tolerances of the original components were so loose that anything newer will be more accurate and fall well within the range of values the speakers were designed for.
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- John
