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Sold: After I purchased my R7 receiver I began the search for the connecting cable from the TR-7 to the R7 which would allow transceiver operations. I had no success and had just about given up when two came on the market. I acquired both and would like to pass along the unused one to another ham who is searching for the elusive cable. Full disclosure: this is not an original Drake cable but instead came from the aftermarket. That said, it’s new and works with my rig. The price is $100 shipped and PayPal is fine. I know $100 for a four foot cable is high but it seems the Cinch Jones connectors used are very hard to source nowadays making it difficult to homebrew the cable. Any questions please contact me off list. Thanks, Tom KF5WBS

Playing with my A Line today, after fixing a damaged T-4 and then cleaning out the relay of my minty T-4X. I’m not a fan of the flat disc “skirt” for the main tuning but by golly, I love the feel of that fluted knob! Granted, these rigs look like it’s still 1967 but I don’t feel the need for a thumb or finger indent! Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS

I have a TR-4 (early model with no noise blanker) that I’ve recapped and aligned to the best of my abilities. It receives great and I get good TX output but every report I get back says they can understand me but my TX audio is crap. I’ve listened to my signal on another radio and it sounds muffled/garbled. No hum in the signal just a very not natural sounding voice. Mic is an Astatic 200 (going off memory). I plan to trace the audio from my mic down the Tx path to try and find the issue. Has anyone experienced this?

Working on a T-4 that I sold and has come back for repairs after UPS played Mad Max with it. I can't remember if the functionality of TUNE and SSB are dependent on there NOT being an open key in the KEY jack. This makes sense merely because the TR-3 and TR-4 function that way but I can't check against my T-4X because the T-4X is a very late one that is more similar to a T-4XB (4-wafer FUNCTION switch), Anyone out there with an early T-4X or a T-4 that can verify this for me? If I close the key (when it's inserted into the KEY connector), I can use TUNE, SSB and AM. If the key is open, TUNE, SSB and AM don't work. If I'm correct, I can send this back to its new owner. Hopefully, UPS won't abuse it again! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

I never liked the fact that there was the AC for the PS7 routed through the TR7. I have used a good power strip for years and tried to not switch the volume control to OFF since I read about them being unobtainable, and failing both electrically and mechanically. Working on a project TR7 and PS7 with a younger ham, I decided that I should finally figure out how to keep the AC out of his and my TR7s. As we were checking out the PS7 I looked at the circuit board that has the voltage switching and all that (mounted by the switches being pop-riveted in place, seriously???) and decided there had to be a better way that to mess with that wiring. And then an idea came to me that should have 40+ yrs ago when I got the rig. Surplus Sales has the Jones connectors (for a cable, but we did not connect any cable) that are the same configuration as on the back of the rig. Part Number: (CNE) P310CCT https://www.surplussales.com/items/107904/vintage-cinch-jones-metal-backshell-clamp/ With it we just jumpered pins 1-2 and 3-4 inside the connector (check your PS7 and TR7 manuals to see) and then plugged it on to the cable from the PS7 and it works just like the PS7 was plugged into a turned-on radio. If you need ALC or VOX, you'll need to get another connector to plug-in to the back of the TR7, but we have not needed either yet. Then we leave the PS7 cable that has the AC and wires for the ALC and VOX coiled up behind the PS7 and turn things on with the power strip. Now only the 12V cable is plugged into the TR7. Of course the fan will need to be changed to 12 VDC on the radio. That will be our next upgrade. Before recommending the Jones connector from Surplus Sales to the group, I called them to make sure there were more available. They checked stock and said that they should have at least several hundred. Thought I'd share this idea with the group. I am sure others may have done something similar, but it is nice to know where we can still get Jones connectors at a reasonable price. 73, -Glenn/ WB0DKT

Have you guys/gals seen this ? https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/drake-r8.950149/ Thought someone here might have an interest. de Jim W4QE

I'm trying to get my head wrapped around the sideband schemes for the TR-4 and have a question. Below is a table of how the sideband lamps react with the various BAND and SIDEBAND switch positions in my TR-4. Is this normal? I suspect it is and it is a matter of getting used to setting the SIDEBAND switch appropriately to get the "proper" sideband and, from what I can see, it's primarily an issue with 40M. Is that correct (and, hopefully nothing is wrong with those switches, etc., in my TR-4)? BAND SIDEBAND LOWER UPPER 80 X 40 X 20 X 15 X 10 X 10 X 10 X 80 X X 40 X X 20 X X 15 X X 10 X X 10 X X 10 X X Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

As I recall, there’s no TR-4Cw/RIT manual as such. I’ve been relying on the non-RIT manual with a two-page RIT addendum. But if I’m wrong…I would sure like a copy. I do have K4OAH’s TR-4C service manual but the included schematic does show D6. Did he produce a service manual specific to the Cw/RIT model? Any informed guesses as to why there’s no PTO Zener regulation in the RIT model? Paul, W9AC

Anyone know what the inductance values are supposed to be for the two coils in these instruments? It's a bit odd to me the manuals I've seen don't include that so was curious. I suppose I could calculate it easily enough. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Check the 50 kHz LO injection into the product detector and the second mixer. This is not a typical failure. Rob, NC0B

What ever became of the TR7 with issues on the IF/Audio board causing it to be stuck in transmit? Also, wha became of the TR-4CW that had the problem with momentarily going into CW transmit than dropping out? Also, what happened to the TR4-xxx that \had the mouse chirp on power down? It would be nice to close the loops on these. Gary W0DVN

The heatsink and internals of the TR-7 series were designed for the fan to pull heat out of the rig. Some prefer to push air into the rig thus driving heat toward the PTO and increasing drift and actually decreasing cooling efficiency for the finals; I've heard that the heatsink design has a patent on it (long expired) but I can't confirm that. For all of my Drake gear, rigs and amplifiers, I've used remote switches to turn things on/off and I leave the power switches in the on position for the respective equipment. Haven't had any switch failure, maybe I've been lucky. A few years ago I changed most of my arrangements from remote switches to using line conditioners with spike suppressors. I used to use Tripp-Lite styles in metal cases but switched to APC models in beige cases; they look good and they work better. Better?! Yes, the Tripp-Lite models had a high spike at onset, sort of defeating the purpose of using a line conditioner. Switching power supplies can have onset spikes as well. One model I have, for 13.8 vdc at 25 amps, has an onset spike higher than 19 vdc when first turned on. Hence, I put some "spike suppressors" (or whatever the formal name is for them) on the output of the supply. Specs for some of my rigs indicate a max of 16 vdc so that onset spike could be problematic. Not sure why reviews of power supplies don't consider the onset spike. As a side note, a scope is the best way to measure the onset spike since an analog VOM might have overshoot of the meter movement. Let's all enjoy our hobby. And who knows, maybe Hamvention 2025 will lack rain. Well, I can dream can't I? On Tuesday, April 1, 2025 at 07:43:23 AM EDT, Craig W8CS via groups.io <craig_severson@...> wrote: Great idea. Ordering the connector today as I hate having to drag both cables up and over the bench when I work on this, and I'm still tempting fate by using the volume control on/off. I have my whole house set up on those remote switches by Gosund so it's a simple task to add another. If anyone finds an appropriate 12V muffin fan, let me know. I was going to replace this anyway as it's turbine-like loud. Perhaps something like this unit would work. It's currently blowing OUT of the unit; is this the latest best practice? -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC

I have a T-4XC/R-4C combination that works well on all bands except 40 meters. I get no plate current on 40M with the T-4XC. Makes no difference if I select separate, transmitter or receiver on the PTO selector of the transmitter. My first thought was a dud 18.1 MHz crystal, so I connected the FS-4 to the transmitter using accessory crystal position 1. Still nothing on 40M. My brain is fried, so thought I’d see if anyone has any ideas. THANKS! Larry, KB9VY

I have a Kenwood MC-50 that I'm thinking of using with my TR-4. First off, is this a decent mic for the rig? It has switchable impedance so that shouldn't be a problem but thought I'd ask before going any further. If this will work, then anyone know where I could get one of the 8-pin sockets? I see a set of five on eBay but thought I'd try to find a single before going for those. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I have an MN-2000 that somewhere in its long history, suffered a somewhat catastrophic event that vaporized one set of the rotating fingers on the band switch, damaged two of the contact points on the steatite wafer, and cracked the wafer. I found this switch which has potential: https://www.rfparts.com/jv9002.html The contacts are much like the one in the tuner; however, the rotating part is different. The band switch in the MN-2000 isn't a traditional rotary switch in that it doesn't make use of a wiper and, instead, the rotating fingers are like a rotary shorting bar (for lack of a better way to describe it). Presumably if you've ever looked at one of these, you know what I'm talking about. Does anyone have any pointers on how I might go about replacing/repairing this? The tuner is is in otherwise exceptionally great condition so I'd like to repair it and use it. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I read somewhere that you can install two 6JB6's (cheaper) with their filaments in series, and then just use one 12JB6 - in a TR3. Has anyone tried this, successfully? Thanks, David KD4E

Hi Everyone. I bought a new old stock International Radio Corp 500 Hz CW. Drake R4C is in the 19200 serial number area. Took off the middle back bracket and carefully lined up the four pins and while under slight pressure of that rear vertical copper angled spring I reinstalled the bracket with the two screws. Found CW on 40 meters on SSB but when switched to CW 0.5 mode it’s like the filter was not even there. Is there something I missed doing in the installation. I see in the manual they talk about in AM for some kind of jumper resistor to be removed by taking the top cover off. Is that necessary in order for the filter to work. Where do I find it. Or is my filter a bad one?