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Durability
2
I oftentimes think that we take our favourite radios from the past as having survived because we have lavished lots of attention on them and have dutifully replaced old capacitors, etc.. Then I buy a C Line that hadn't been powered up since 1984, I bought from a friend today a C Line with an etek FR-4 that hadn't been powered up since 1984, I bought it at a price commensurate with being dormant for 40 years and it was a great deal. Firstly, the e-tek needed nothing. By the 1980s, we had really mastered the art of making capacitors that last. The unit is nearly within spec. I can't get to direct measurement and that may be due to a dirty switch. Direct mode switches off the convertor by grounding it. Perhaps the switch is a wee bit dirty. BYW, I have the original manual for this and I will eventually scan it to be shared with anyone who wants a copy. The T-4XC puts out 130+ W on 20m. The switches are incredibly dirty but finding a band to test output on confirms that the finals are in good shape. I used my bench supply. There's no need for using a variac for any 4-Line transmitter. The only can cap is not anywhere near HV and it it fails, it won't take anything with it. The R-4C is a mid-later production unit. It has 5-position filter switch, 6EJ7 mixers. I have also found that it has a few Sherwood mods (audio amp, power supply, mixer and a lovely GUF-1 filter!). Brought it up over about an hour and a half. It's working but dirty, dirty, dirty! Some bands are better than other due to the dirty switches! Frequency on 15 MHz confirmed that the dial was set right-0n, and the calibrator was bang-on, also. The AC-4 has the end of the cord cut off, so I will be more caretul -- though the finals are in great shape, so I think someone cut the end off to force an examination of the supply, which I will do. The MS-4 should be fine. It's hard to wreck a speaker in one of these, as you can't push any pointy things into the cone... Forty years without being powered up. Yeah, the Jackson drives are sluggish as hell and the PTO's require maximum torque to turn. They're not seized but should be easily freed. These rigs can take some neglect, as long as you don't put them in an unconditioned space. If a cap blows up, I can replace it. Oh -- whatever I do with this, the GUF-1 won't be leaving my possession! Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
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Wanted: SPR-4 front panel
3
Looking for a nice and clean SPR-4 front panel. Can anyone help? Peter OZ8CTH
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9 MHz Crystal in a TR-4
12
I'm still looking into my TR-4's 9 MHz oscillator. Earlier, I said I could wrap a coil of wire around the oscillator tube (V16) and measure the frequency but apparently I was misremembering something because I tried that last night and I could not get the counter to trigger on anything close to 9 MHz so I just used a 10:1 oscilloscope probe which worked fine. Unfortunately, I am not able to get the oscillator exactly on 9 MHz. C130 will adjust it down to about 9.000280 MHz but I presume I should be able to swing the oscillator very slightly above and below 9 MHz leading me to believe the crystal has "drifted" upwards just a bit and because of this, I'm not quite able to get one of the filters to respond correctly. IIRC, the LSB filter will respond down to inaudible as I approach zero-beat with the calibrator; however, USB fades out long before zero-beat and I think that's due to the CO being too high. Any suggestions on a fix? I presume baking it might bring it back down but if that doesn't work, then I'd like to replace it. They're available new in that form factor (HC-49) but I'm not sure about what other characteristics I'd need to consider. I presume this isn't a series crystal and should have an appropriate load capacitance but perhaps other factors may need to be considered. Anyone know the specs for that crystal? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
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AC-4 Voltages
2
I'm noticing that the HV from my rebuilt AC-4 is running quite high - on the order of 730VDC. I know that my line voltage is around 126VAC and if I run the AC-4 from an autotransformer, I have to dial that back to approximately 110VAC to see 650VDC output. I find that just a bit odd since the input voltage on the schematic shows 120VAC. I can reduce that input voltage with either a bucking transformer or I also have a rather heavy-duty transformer with multiple input taps where I can feed my line voltage across the 132VAC connection points and have 110VAC at the 115VAC tap. I'm just wondering why an increase of 6VAC from the original spec has the output voltage so high and whether that increase is detrimental. I realize the filament voltages are probably on the high side as well (I haven't checked those) but that may be harder on the tubes than the HV increase but I don't know that for sure. Any thoughts? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
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I just wanted to show off my mini collection of DRAKE radio. 35 years ago I fell in love with these radios . 15 years ago I started collecting them ;-) Well, this is the current effect: https://youtu.be/w_bWcGprRX0?si=2O0gqz0fr4YOYJpG One radio is fully working the others are waiting to be looked at, checked, started up. I jave some spare tubes and I have a meter to measure the tubes. Work in progress. Jerry SP3SWJ
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Drake, Heath, Johnson, etc. for sale
2
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Here's my list with prices of what I'll have for sale and pickup at my QTH around Hamvention time. Cannot ship. Unable to bring to Hamvention due to health issues but I'm only about 4 miles from Greene County Fairgrounds. New in the box Drake RCS-4 remote coax switch $175. Shure 450D series II, new in the box microphone, $110. D-104 Final Edition microphone, new in display case, never used, $250. Hastings fiberglass hotsticks for POTA, Field Day, etc. new 35 ft $75, and used 44 ft $50. Jackite 31 ft orange windsock pole, used once to measure tree height, $50. Heath SB-200 linear, mint, with new PS upgrade, soft key, and faster changeover relay, $400. ME26 D/U professionally refurbished military millivolt meter, $60. Hospital grade isolation transformer, $30. Johnson Ranger, "8+" on outside, operation unknown, $75. Nye Viking (Johnson) KW Matchbox, "9+", with coupler for SWR meter, dark gray matches Drake, $300. New, pocket DTMF phone dialers, produces DTMF or single tone, for testing linears, etc. $5 each. If you want to buy any of these please let me know OFF LIST. 73, Evan, K9SQG K9SQG@...
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Drake TR7 10R line
4
Hi everyone. Haven't had much time for the TR7 due to ill health. However I have the transistor for the 10R line. I wondered what caused it to blow in the first place. I checked the 10R line,for resistance to earth with the test leads in both directions. It read 160 ohms. It looked a little low so I pulled,a few boards which used,the l8ne. if/audio, if filter, switch and 2nd mixer. One pulling the second mixer the resistance went to zero. Tried,another board and it was the same. No wanting to blow the transistor does anyone know if that resistance is correct? Thanks Mike G3ZCC
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9 MHz Alignment
9
When I attempt to set the 9 MHz oscillator by listening to the sidebands (per the manual), each sideband sounds "different". It's as if I can get the "frequency" of the sound the same but the bandwidth of the sound is different. It's as if one sideband's filter is narrower than the other one. Does that make sense? I presume it's possible and that one or the other filter's shape is different (i.e. a narrower bell-shape than the other one). If that's the case, then is it an indication that there's something wrong with one (or both) filter that's making them sound different in this way. I know that may sound like a weird explanation of what I'm hearing but it's about the best I can describe it. BTW, 40M seemed terrible at my QTH today. I was hoping I'd hear the net with my TR-4 but I could just barely hear anyone today. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
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Could be the end of my Tr7
14
Hi everyone,sad news. I traced the issue,finally, no 10R getting to the filter board, not even on the socket. Checked the 10R on the psu board, exactly 10.0v Removed The front panel and the two banks of switches. No 10R but 13.6 v. On A and B The switching seems,to work though. At a complete,loss now. Last gasp the circuit is hard to read where do the switches derive the 10 R from? Just in case I am missing something. It's the dustbin if I can't find the problem Thanks Mike G3ZCC
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R4C Audio Issue
2
I recently picked up a set of C Twins at a hamfest and getting around to checking them out and I am having a problem with the R4C s/n 27279. When I first powered it up I got good strong audio but a few minutes later the audio would drop out and become distorted then it would come back strong a bit later. When the audio was strong it was crisp and clear. When audio drops out and becomes distorted and I have to turn volume all the way up to hear stations. Seems the receive is still good as stations who were S9 while in strong audio were still showing S9 on the meter after audio dropped. This happens in both SSB and CW. The change would happen when nobs like the band or mode were changed but also would happen randomly with no nobs turned or other contact. I cleaned the contacts and switches twice, tested the tubes (all tested good) but still swapped out with known good tubes, and changed the electrolytic capacitors using the Hayseed Hamfest cap kit all with no impact. Was not sure where the two 10uf 35V caps go in the Hayseed kit. I changed out what I believe to be the C175 but did not know where to change the other so still one 10uf not changed. Have tapped around on the chassis to look for loose connections with no effect. Have also probed around looking for cracked solder joints or cracked resistors and none found, at least yet. I am testing the unit as a stand-alone not connected with any cables to the T4XC except the antenna coming into the transmitter SO-239 then to the R4C through the shielded antenna cable. To make sure it wasn¡¯t that connection or cable I put a wire into the antenna jack on the back of the R4C and connected it to my antenna and the problem was still the same. This issue seems to be evolving. Since I¡¯ve been checking and testing, it now seems that the R4C is in the bad audio condition almost all the time and the distortion is worse. I noticed this gradually changed from about a 50% good audio/50% bad audio when I first got it to where it is now 100% bad audio condition. Any direction on what the cause of this audio issue might be and how to correct it is appreciated. Randal KG5IEE
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Drake etc. for sale, pickup near Hamvention
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Per inquiries, I have prepared a partial list of what I'll have for sale and pickup at my QTH around Hamvention time. Unable to bring to Hamvention due to health issues but I'm only about 4 miles from Greene County Fairgrounds. Haven't priced things yet. New in the box Drake RCS-4 remote coax switch. Repair kits for L4B power switch; two complete with housing, one with just contacts. New in the box Drake KW dummy load, no optional fan. Shure 450D series II, new in box microphone. Fiberglass hotsticks 35 ft and 44 ft, new and used. Jackite 31 ft orange pole, used once to measure tree height. Heath SB-200 linear, mint, with new PS upgrade, soft key, and faster changeover relay. Medical grade isolation transformer. Johnson Ranger, "9" on outside, operation? Nye Viking KW Matchbox, with coupler, dark gray matches Drake. New DTMF phone dialers, produces DTMF or single tone, for testing linears, etc. If you're interested in any of these just let me know OFF LIST and I'll send you a complete list when done along with pricing. Bring your rain gear and enjoy Hamvention. 73, Evan, K9SQG K9SQG@...
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I removed my PTO on the TR-4CW/RIT so that I could clean it. The cleaning went well. I tested the PTO out with my spectrum analyzer and the PTO has a strong signal that adjusts (I believe it was?) 4.9-5.5 MHZ. When I reattached the PTO back to the rig I don¡¯t get any stations. I attached my digital DD-103 to the bottom jones plug and it only displays 9MHZ. I took many photos of the 4 wires off of the PTO to the rig and I did not have any problems re-connecting the wires. I am a very good soldered by the way. My rig now just sits here because I haven¡¯t a clue on what to do next! Can anyone please help me? Thank you! Mark
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DRAKE USERS NET UPDATE - 20 April 2025
2
Today's Drake User's Net had the following participant information: Total Check-in Stations: 19 Radios: Twins (All Versions): 2 TR-3: None TR4: (All Versions): 2 TR5: 1 TR7: 6 Next week ¨C 27 April 2025 ¨C will have Evan, K9SQG, as Net Control. 73, Bill Shadid, Net Control Drake Users Group for 29 April 2025 W9MXQ@...
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PLJ-8LED debacle and Amazon
8
I distanced myself from Amazon a few years ago when they switched to a format where you couldn't identify the vendor before or after the sale. Even before that you couldn't tell if something came from an Amazon "warehouse" or a vendor; the number remaining in "stock" was never accurate with the online readout. Too, when doing a search, I've found prices can be significantly lower on eBay or some of the ham sites that allow free ads. Happy Easter Sunday to all. On Saturday, April 19, 2025 at 08:59:06 PM EDT, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote: FWIW the only thing I have ever bought through Amazon was the obscure SCR for the PS7 crowbar, and that was from American Microsemi which I knew to be a good vendor. Otherwise life is just fine without Amazon.
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PLJ-8LED debacle
4
I decided to purchase a PLJ-8LED freq counter last month to see if I could get it to work with my R4-C Even though it was $10 higher in cost, I went with Amazon because of their simple return policy and the unit being a Chinese product. The first unit was DOA. The second one worked, but only with my sig gen set to max output. It turns out that some of these units come with an incorrectly color-coded connector for the signal input - the red wire goes to gnd and the black wire is the signal input. After resolving this problem, the unit worked good with my R4., except for 10M. There is a spur 5.645 MHz above the injection signal. If this spur is within 10 dB of the injection signal, the freq display is unstable. This was not an issue on 80-15 M, but on 10 M the spur was only 8 dB down. By realigning the 10 M band I was able to get the spur 15 dB down and subsequently got stable readings. Yesterday the unit died. It displayed all zeros on both high and low channels regardless of freq or pwr level. Went to the Amazon site to try and return it, but discovered that it was 10 days past the 30 day return period. Decided to order another unit from Amazon. When I got to check out, I noticed that there were several unusual entries - no option for shipping method, no charge for shipping when there should have been, and a credit of $1.90 applied for a ¡°promotion¡±. After searching through all of the fine print I discovered that by placing the order I was agreeing to their promotion, which was to be signed up for Prime for 3 months. Amazon slipped this in even though I had previously checked the box saying I didn¡¯t want Prime. I was unable to find a way to order the part without agreeing to the promotion. Bill N0CU -- Bill N0CU
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File /TR4310/Drake TR4310 Band Codes And AUX-7 G4FPH Group.xlsx uploaded
2
#file-notice
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /TR4310/Drake TR4310 Band Codes And AUX-7 G4FPH Group.xlsx By: atlasstuff <g4fph@...> Description: Excel sheet containing information for debugging band / range code issues.
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Drake 1-A cabinet
Good morning ! I¡¯m looking for the case for a Drake 1-A. Can be rough as long as there are no dents or extra holes Email me W5sum at yahoo.com! Thanks Ronnie W5sum
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Finally repaired my original TR-7 PBT board that I roasted the U1001 analog switch on. (Dieter was right!) Took about a month to get the IC via eBay/Asia. Unsoldering that dude took about two hours to get all the little pins out after I surrendered and used the "Wedge" method of chopping it out and unsoldering the pins afterward. Still pretty rough on the circuit traces. Because of this I dug through the junk box and put in a 14 pin DIP socket instead of directly soldering the IC in. I was very surprised that it came right up after I set the 13.695 VXCO. Boom. Not sure if there is a sweeter-sounding receiver when everything's dialed in. Next up: 1) The "better all-band transmit mod", 2) grounding mod to eliminate 40m parasitic, and 3) Cinch-Jones plug and fan mod to remove 120V from unit. Tip of the cap to you guys for helping me keep this relic on the air. -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC
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Hi to all in the group! While having not fully finished repair work on the low-serial TR7 I posted about some while ago, an opportunity came up this weekend that I just could not turn down - a Drake TR4310 (HF) Communications Transceiver. When will I learn to finish one project prior to starting the next! The example I have acquired (2xx serial number) started life in Africa. Retired from commercial service, it was gifted to a UK amateur who happened to be passing through the country in the course of his employment. He sold it to me for a most agreeable price, in view of it having been in storage for some years, now not working and with some UK repair shop hinting it would be uneconomic to put right. The transceiver is dirty, but in good physical shape. It came with the full, paper service manual, which documents all of the differences between the TR4310 and TR7, on which it is firmly based. The parent board in it is stamped '5 May 1981', so around the time Drake was transitioning between making TR7 and TR7A. I've had the radio on the bench this afternoon. Annoyingly, I cannot find the small Allen key that will allow me to take the knob off the bandswitch (anyone know the size of this?). As a result, I am unable to hinge the front panel down and pull the display board and get to the boards underneath. I pulled all of the boards in the top-rear card cage and have cleaned all their Molex connectors, plus the relay contacts. The 4310 has all four filter slots filled as standard:-) Looks like there is an AUX7 board fitted, with maybe some band modules too:-) With no short circuit on the power input connector and internal fuse intact, I connected up an antenna and applied power. Sure enough it didn't work. Well, actually, quite a lot of it did! I have all voltage rails coming out of the power supply. The display has a few digits lit. Audio and RF gain controls are good. Mode, Filter and PBT functions change the noise in the speaker in the way you would expect. The calibrator produces drifty audio tones in the loudspeaker. Switching between bands and turning the Aux Program knob causes the 'set band' to illuminate and extinguish. On the negative side, there's no MHz digits displayed on the seven segment LED frequency readout for any band. Turning the knob on the (synthesised - yeah, like an RV75!) internal VFO causes some change to the last three right-hand digits, but does not look correct. I think the number one issue is lack of VHF local oscillator injection. I plugged in an RV7 external VFO and got no better results. I'm looking forward to getting this one going and will post updates to this thread once I get further down the line. One thing I am already enjoying is how much easier it seems to be to get to everything in the radio, compared to a TR7, especially the RF HPF and LPF assemblies (hope I will not have cause to go there). Should any other 4310 owners wish to chip in and share their experiences, please feel free. Regards, Mark.
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I was about to make the "Better All Band Transmit Modification" to my TR-7A when I noticed that the digital control board is different: Is my best option now to use the traditional "cut the parent board trace" for pin 11 on the DCB? Thanks -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC
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Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am