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I took the PA cage off because it had a concavity to it that bothered me since it made the top of the cage that much closer to the plate caps. I then noticed the neutralization capacitor is fully

Jerry, that’s the plan.

Pretty sure mine cost me less than $20 to build and that includes two new Jones connectors. But I had the wire and cable I needed already. Cinch has Jones connectors still on their web site and they

The neut procedure is but no mention is made of what happens on the lower bands. Neutralisation is most important at the highest frequencies, I have been told for years. Being a bit "off" on lower

The green wire goes to the place where the PTO output goes. In your transceiver, there should be a spade connector on that board. that has no other wire connected to it. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies

Hi Peter, Yes I have all of K4OAH service manuals for this rig plus whatever was included in the package. I believe I ordered everything about a month ago when I got the other TR-4CW without the RIT.

When I got my first C Line (an early one with 4 position filter switch), I was disappointed at the feel of the nylon-geared PTO’s. At the time (1984) I figured it was the price to be paid for a PTO

I agree. AND, the metal mechanism feels soo much better than the plastic two disc C line! 73, Gary WB6OGD [email protected]> wrote:

That's the best part! I was good friends with a guy whose dad was a ham and he had a B-Line. We both had our novice licenses and his dad sort-of frowned on it if we messed with his new rigs (don't

Playing with my A Line today, after fixing a damaged T-4 and then cleaning out the relay of my minty T-4X. I’m not a fan of the flat disc “skirt” for the main tuning but by golly, I love the

You guys are fantastic! I appreciate all the help. I realigned the CO, which was pretty far off, and then balanced it. ?I also switched mics to a D104. My TX audio sounds great on both sidebands now.

I meant to add do NOT disconnect the plates of pentodes/tetrodes alone, the screens will try to absorb all the output of the cathode and burn up. If the screens are disconnected the electron flow in

That is correct. You probably want something more sensitive than a VTVM, a scope is ideal but a radio receiver works well. As long as the screens are disconnected little or no power will come out. For

Well, I have..? sort of.? I think you are missing some important steps though. Signals available in an R-4 are the PTO (5-5.5MHz on all bands) or the INJ (11.1MHz above operating frequency). The 2NT

Before messing seriously with the motherboard, I would pull all the cards and clean the Molex pins with DeOxit. - Jerry, KF6VB

Richard, If I understand correctly, for the three 6JB6 (tetrodes), I can disconnect the screen connection (one connection goes to all three tubes) and then I can either scope the output or use an HF

It is NOT normal. It is a sign that the amplifier needs to be neutralized. Plate dip and power peak should be simultaneous. The coincidence of these two is a very sensitive measure of neutralization.

I use the camera on my phone for taking photos of lots of things before diving into projects..In fact that is what it is mostly used for.. It's one of the best tools to come along [email protected]>

Has anyone tried using a DDS VFO connected to a receiver such as the R-4B, and also connected via a "T" to the VFO input of a boatanchor transmitter such as the 2-NT? I'm thinking that might work to

I'm back again with the TR7.? I put it away because I was frustrated and have spent some time since bring a Heathkit SB-102 back to life.? That went well and now I'm ready to tackle the TR& again. I