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That is correct. You probably want something more sensitive than a VTVM, a scope is ideal but a radio receiver works well. As long as the screens are disconnected little or no power will come out. For tetrodes/pentodes it is not necessary to disconnect the plates. The neutralizing capacitor forms a bridge with the internal capacitances of the tube. When correctly adjusted the bridge nulls out the coupling through the tube. There are better explanations on the web.
You can start at some relatively low frequency, probably 20 meters is suitable, get a null, and then go up to 10 meters (or whatever the maximum frequency is) and refine the adjustment if necessary. The reason for retesting using the Drake method once the screens are reattached is that the Drake method is the most sensitive way to adjust the neutralization. If the screen method is used first you will be right on or very close so there will not be difficulty with the Drake method.
The driver can be adjusted at very low power before doing the neutralization. One problem with the internal feedback is that its possible to get the final amp oscillating is close to full power simply by adjustment of the plate. The warning is that there is power out with no drive and the output does not vary with the drive level. The output stage is NOT amplifying, it is oscillating and can burn up very quickly.
Note that some rigs, notably Kenwood, have switches for the screen voltage especially for neutralizing them. I am only familiar with a couple of Drake rigs but in both the screen feeds are easy to get to and disconnect.
I should not have to add this but better: For triodes it is the plates that should be disconnected. For tetrodes or pentodes disconnect the screens, that will cut the tube off. Do NOT disconnect the plates alone. You can disconnect BOTH screens and plates but disconnecting the plates is not necessary.
Success with this (I think you make your own luck) and please report back on your results.

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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998