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Peter Thank you for that. Helpful for both lots of information. Nigel [email protected]> wrote:

See: https://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TR4-Unraveled/Unraveling%20TR4.pdf "Mark N2DMI via groups.io" <markkiziuk1@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim NU0C

So to clarify a little, if I turn the SSB selector to the left it is USB. If I turn the SSB to the right (X) position the rig is in LSB. I know this to be true because I can listen to the same person

On the rig I am working on, when I turn the SSB switch to the counter clockwise (left) position the USB comes on and when I turn the switch to the clockwise (X) (right) position the LSB light comes

Nigel: Premium-RX is, I believe, a QTH.net mailing list, though the link to a list directory doesn't seem to work for me. I know it's been around a long time but it's rare I even see a post from there

Great will go to my local Hobby Lobby and get some and make them.? Thanks for the info. Bob

Peter Could you tell me the website of the Premium-RX you mentioned. I have those two Holy Grail items and am approaching the time when I will have to 'thin out' the good stuff. Nigel (G3YDT)

FWIW I saw this on the Premium-RX list yesterday.... <Snip> 1. FOR SALE (Daniel Robinson) As part of a large slimming of the collection here, offering the following items. I'll be adding to this in

I got the dial EXACT! I got it to 0 beat with my Yaesu in CW mode at 7100Mhz, BUT when I was using the built in Drake calibrator the 100 Mhz beat notes from the calibrator were inconsistent with 200,

Thanks Peter! Mark

Mark: As you have a TR-4Cw, you should have the so-called "metal-geared" last version of the 4-line PTO's. (There are still two plastic gears and two spring-loaded anti-backlash gearsets!) In order to

Gary I did like you said with squeezing that lever but it seems like only the second dial ( the one with 100, 200 etc) moves freely with my hand. The front dial (with 0,10,20 etc) if I turn that, then

Different purposes, Tony. With the passage of time, the R-4C became a top-shelf DX and contest receiver. The older 4 Line receivers used L/C filters, which have a wider shape factor. Those sound

The later ones are crystal lattice filters like the ones in the Twins. They are hermetically sealed and have crystals and capacitors precisely arranged. The crystal frequencies are staggered around

Ok I will try that idea in the morning. When I am off from work for Saturday and Sunday (which is rare!) I normally just relax and don’t work on anything. On Sunday I work on all the things I put

Bear in mind that the end caps are fragile enough as it is without any added strain. NEVER tighten the screws down any tighter that just barely finger tight and then maybe even backed off a little to

Less silicon devices. TR-3 has a few diodes and that’s it and it’s more simple. ?I like the copper chassis. The 4C is a pretty complicated radio with more silicon and the double wheel tuning

I’m curious. Watching the conversations regarding the TR’s I kind’a get the feeling that people prefer the earlier ones like the TR4 with the newer filters. What is the shortcoming of the TR4C

I used .025" thick copper sheet to make the clips. They are 1" long x 5/8" wide. Holes are 1/8" diameter and centered on the clip. Spacing is 3/8" center to center and the center of holes are 5/16"

I’ve got a collection of soup cans and may try this someday. ?Is there any info on what frequencies are correct for each crystal? ?Are the later filters xtals or mechanical filters? ?I’ve never