开云体育

Peter Could you tell me the website of the Premium-RX you mentioned. I have those two Holy Grail items and am approaching the time when I will have to 'thin out' the good stuff. Nigel (G3YDT)

FWIW I saw this on the Premium-RX list yesterday.... <Snip> 1. FOR SALE (Daniel Robinson) As part of a large slimming of the collection here, offering the following items. I'll be adding to this in

I got the dial EXACT! I got it to 0 beat with my Yaesu in CW mode at 7100Mhz, BUT when I was using the built in Drake calibrator the 100 Mhz beat notes from the calibrator were inconsistent with 200,

Thanks Peter! Mark

Mark: As you have a TR-4Cw, you should have the so-called "metal-geared" last version of the 4-line PTO's. (There are still two plastic gears and two spring-loaded anti-backlash gearsets!) In order to

Gary I did like you said with squeezing that lever but it seems like only the second dial ( the one with 100, 200 etc) moves freely with my hand. The front dial (with 0,10,20 etc) if I turn that, then

Different purposes, Tony. With the passage of time, the R-4C became a top-shelf DX and contest receiver. The older 4 Line receivers used L/C filters, which have a wider shape factor. Those sound

The later ones are crystal lattice filters like the ones in the Twins. They are hermetically sealed and have crystals and capacitors precisely arranged. The crystal frequencies are staggered around

Ok I will try that idea in the morning. When I am off from work for Saturday and Sunday (which is rare!) I normally just relax and don’t work on anything. On Sunday I work on all the things I put

Bear in mind that the end caps are fragile enough as it is without any added strain. NEVER tighten the screws down any tighter that just barely finger tight and then maybe even backed off a little to

Less silicon devices. TR-3 has a few diodes and that’s it and it’s more simple. ?I like the copper chassis. The 4C is a pretty complicated radio with more silicon and the double wheel tuning

I’m curious. Watching the conversations regarding the TR’s I kind’a get the feeling that people prefer the earlier ones like the TR4 with the newer filters. What is the shortcoming of the TR4C

I used .025" thick copper sheet to make the clips. They are 1" long x 5/8" wide. Holes are 1/8" diameter and centered on the clip. Spacing is 3/8" center to center and the center of holes are 5/16"

I’ve got a collection of soup cans and may try this someday. ?Is there any info on what frequencies are correct for each crystal? ?Are the later filters xtals or mechanical filters? ?I’ve never

I had a TR-3 that had been factory converted to a TR-4 and it still had the soupcan filters. It actually sounded great — 4-pole with wider bandwidth. It is possible to replace individual crystals

That last ideal would work to help you understand how far off frequency you are. Tim WB8UHZ

I used some copper sheet purchased at Hobby Lobby to make them. I’m not at home at the moment to send the dimensions of them. 73 Stan KM4HQE

Yes if you can find the right TR-4. Early TR-4s have the same soup can filter as the TR-3. Late ones have same or similar filter as the 4C that protrude through the chassis bottom to top. For that one

Does anyone know a source for the clips that are used to stack the 7 line units, like an SP-75 on top of an MS-7 or other units.? I think I can make something out of thin metal if I can find some.?

Alright in a little bit I will try this. I wish WWV operated on the ham bands. I have the Heathkit RF oscillator but that thing is not really accurate unless of course I use my frequency counter with