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First things first: The wandering display means that the synthesizer is out-of-lock and is searching until it reaches its maximum frequency. This is usually caused by loss of the PTO signal, which

One thing I thought I would add, if you don’t know the history of the set, is to make sure the receive jumper at the rear panel is intact. I’m not with my manuals at the moment but if a previous

I just bought some 60/40 from Amazon, as my 45 year old spool is just about used up. You can still buy it new. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton

"Craig W8CS via groups.io" <craig_severson@...> wrote: You will find info on a homebrew board extractor here: https://pa0cmu.nl/drake.html#bookmark9 5V for the DR7 comes from the two

Hi Bob- I've gone through a couple of sparring rounds with my TR-7 since exhuming it a couple of months ago from 25 years of storage. Some thoughts: * Do you have the service manual? If not, see if

Thanks Jim. [email protected]> wrote:

Hi Bob, Congrats on the new TR7. It is still a top notch rig. Grab a cup of coffee and search the message archive of this group on the term Molexia. That will be your starting point. "Bob W4JFA via

Hi all, I'm new to the group. Bob, W4JFA from NC. I acquired a TR7 along with the matching power supply. This is what I see so far... Powers up, no receive or transmit. Well virtually no receive. I

Thanks for the feedback Steve. Yes, the internal 4-section can cap has been replaced. Paul, W9AC Sent: Monday, March 17, 2025 6:33 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] TR-4Cw/RIT

Thanks Gary! I have had the entire front panel off the radio in order to get to that S-2 and clean it. Not to say I got it all clean and working. I was suspicious of that as well. This radio belonged

Tek scopes typically had a small spool of the stuff attached in a conspicuous location on the chassis. It's usually still there after the years unless nicked by a previous tech. "jerry-KF6VB via

When I turn my iron off I wait a little time before just putting a lot of solder on it until it cools; I have plenty of the old, good stuff. ?Then when I turn it on again, I know it is up to

The trick here is to keep the tip well tinned when not soldering with it. If you have a blob that is about to fall off the end you have enough. I have to deal with this horrible stuff at work. At my

Yes, that's a bad no-no. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I thought I would try again, no response to my last plea. So I know there is someone out there with one on the shelf, not getting used. C'mon, you can part with it:-) Contact me offline at my QRZ

Also be sure that it does not contain acid rosin i.e. it is not "acid core solder" . 73 Gene K1NR

That actually sounds pretty good, Paul. BTW, does your rig have new caps in place of the original can cap? Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton

According to my experience, lead-free solder is absolutely terrible. Beside the fact that is does not merge together with the material which should be soldered, it eats up the tip of my soldering

Back in the day, Tektronix scopes were soldered with silver bearing solder. At my job in the instrument shop, I always had a little roll of that stuff in my tools. They had ceramic terminal strips

Does anyone know where I can get a Drake TR-4CW digital dial from or something equivalent so I can have a digital readout on my TR-4CW? tnx! Mark