One thing I thought I would add, if you don¡¯t know the history of the set, is to make sure the receive jumper at the rear panel is intact. I¡¯m not with my manuals at the moment but if a previous owner wanted to listen on LF, it could be an issue.?
To eliminate the filter boards and PIN diodes, the small bit of coax at the top can be hooked to an antenna to see if the problem is in the filters/PIN diodes.?
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
On Tue, Mar 18, 2025 at 08:01, Jim Shorney via groups.io <
jimNU0C@...> wrote:
On Tue, 18 Mar 2025 04:49:37 -0700
"Craig W8CS via groups.io" <craig_severson@...> wrote:
> * Jim speaks the truth on "molexia." All of the boards are plugged in via molex connectors and they get funky with age. Invest in some DeOxit. Learn to pull the boards out with a gentle rocking motion until you can pull them straight out and clean the pins.
You will find info on a homebrew board extractor here:
https://pa0cmu.nl/drake.html#bookmark9
> * If your digital readout is working, you at least have the +5V working from that power supply board.
> * The main tools that you'll need to get this dude up and working are 1) an accurate DVM, and 2) a freq counter.
5V for the DR7 comes from the two 7805 regulators mounted to the chassis wall. However if the PLL locks and you can hear any signal at all the 5V from the PS Board is OK.
--
73
-Jim
NU0C
