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New member here…. I recently acquired a Drake TR4 – CW and AC-4 power supply. ?However, I’m not able to get the initial bias current to .1 A and a few other things that don’t seem right when

Many thanks for the correlation, Richard. I have the manual - and the CDs, so, despite scary synaptic deceleration, I should be able to reivive my R4-B. It would be sacrilege to abandon it... I learn

ok, i hope you images, many thanks

I am mostly familiar with the R4B, which might be very different from the 2B. I found the most useful tool for adjusting the slugs in the PBT is an alligator clip. It allows me to turn the slug wire

In the R-4B handbook. See pages 35 and 37. P.35 is the procedure for setting the AVC/S-meter, p.37 is a photo of the underside of the chassis showing the locations of adjustments. Note that there is a

Must have missed something.... I would like to get my R4-B near-pristine ... para 6.4.9 with fig. 13 - where to be found, please? Michael 2E0IHW

The ends are intentionally flattened so that they can be torqued. I have had much better luck using an "internal" tweaker: basically an adjustment tool with the flat blade inside the plastic outer

Gary, thanks for the photo. I'm fortunate that the rods are not bent but they are mashed from the use of pliers. I plan to use an X-acto pin vise to grab the rod to turn. The use of pliers to adjust

Awseome! I'm glad you got it up and running. Another prodigal child returns to the flock. I feel your pain, my local noise floor has increased dramatically in recent years. On 80m particularly, S-9+

Jim, I added a 68 R in series with the existing R2303 (which was 47 R). That brought the driver standing current down to about 220 mA, which seems reasonable to me and is more in line with your note.

The 11volts comes from a big wirewound dropping resistor from the 150V.? See the schematic and look for the resistor. Hopefully they didn't remove it for the previous mods. 73, Gary WB6OGD

It’s cool what we found on the various 2-B’s we worked on last year. I had two other ones besides that horrorshow. One of the others sounded obviously like the PBT needed adjustment, so I finally

Hmmm. On two different transmitters, with a diverse collection of mics… Did you do alignments on both? I’m trying to find a common thread. How is the carrier balance? I set carrier balance with an

It’s a TR-4. Yeah, I do this, too. Don’t feel bad, Mark :-) Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home) for iOS

Dean - You have done an awesome restoration on your 2B; super congratulations on what you have done.? The front panel looks just like Drake made it.....minus the original knobs....however, yours

Yes Steve, the one with the glue inside for lubrication, hi hi... It had to come apart for that anyway. 73, Gary WB6OGD

Look back at my post #72582 I just checked, they still are selling the last 2 knobs!?? I thought I bought the last two!! Not cheap but available.? Keep the guitar guys from buying them up. 73, Gary

I will put up some pictures of my setup and what it looks like on my other radios later tonight when i get home or tomorrow morning. Thanks for the help. Mark [email protected]> wrote:

Joel, I would look again for the pot. All R4B's have it. Even the earlier R4A and R4's. The procedure you want to follow is paragraph 6.4.9 then look at Figure 13 and you will see at the bottom the

Both. I have listened on a couple different radios I have and have seen the signal on the waterfall on those radios. I have also gotten a report back from another Ham who said there was to much