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To remove the DR7 (display) board remove the electrical connectors plugged in to the top side, the single screw, and unplug the coax and the wire that run to the High Pass Filter module. Hint: mark

The process for removing the DR7 board to get to the boards underneath is in the service manual.? I'd have to look to see what page it's on. ? It involves sliding the bandswitch shaft back and

Bill, I'm sure some of the experts will respond with some great procedures. ?Try the Drake Net (7238 at 44 PM Eastern on Sundays) for some info as well. What I have done in the past is to remove the

Could somebody please point me towards a prodcedure for removing and cleaning the circuit boards?? I assume I will need to removw the display board to get to all the boards so I need to know how to

Bill, Welcome back to the Drake world! Comments inserted below. "Bill NZ0T" <nz0tham@...> wrote: Check the 4-pin Jones plug. You may have oxidation on the contacts. Maybe also the regulator

Extender boards aren't needed for alignment and, actually, you should not use extenders for anything other than troubleshooting. The rig can be aligned from any point in the procedure but it's

I had a TR7 about 15 years ago and loved it but I sold it to help finance my K3 purchase, which I also love and still have.? I acquired a TR7 today from an estate today with the PS7.? It's S/N 2713.

I can relate to that Tom. It does seem that no matter how many times I proof something I still miss things too often. I hope if anyone spots any errors in my stuff they will let me know. Thanks for

Mark, Just so you know, when the Vatican representative shows up, I have nominated you for sainthood.? :) Regards, Kirk, NT0Z My book, "Stealth Amateur Radio," is now available from

Jim, Thanks for catching the errors in the parent board pinout doc. No matter how many times a person rechecks something, a different pair of eyes can spot unseen errors. As I get time, I'll update

Yeah, I was doing the same thing. Fully-working is the best situation. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/mail/home) for

Here we go. I think this was what I found. I was not actually searching for errors at the time and I neglected to make any notes. Tom's drawing is an amazing work. Buy the guy a beer (or two)! I can

Thank you Steve. It is a great satisfaction to have the L75 Amp working in all respects. To see how the readings matches the manual and now it is easier to take care of it by reading the Plate and

Nice work Mark! It sounds like you are bringing a poor abused child back to useful existence. Well worth the time and trouble. The band switch detent is pretty light on these. Is is the ball and leaf

Wow, Great dedication! Congratulations. Marty KL7AM To: "DRAKE-RADIO" <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2024 9:08:37 AM Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] Drake TR-7 - A repair journey Hi to all

What a job!!! Thanks for sharing your journey and good luck with the TX! I also brought back life to two ?junk TR7s“. (Yours sounds really terrible…) You learn a lot about the radio that way.

Hi to all in the group. Below some findings from my repair journey with a TR-7 that you may find interesting. A couple of years ago, I acquired a Drake 'job lot' on eBay. Until this week, the TR-7

Clint, Yes, figured this out. Using the freq counter in my Tek 2465BCT scope. The good news: the Reference Oscillator is right on freq: 1.28000 MHz at TP114 The bad news: the VCXO appears not to be

I used these guys for my L4B. Work pretty good.? Drake 4-Line Blue Lamps | | | | Drake 4-Line Blue Lamps Don Buska Products - Drake 4-Line R4C, T4XC Lamp Kits | | | 73MarkW0NCL

I have an L-4B Amp. Love it!! The bulbs on my meters are starting to get dim. Want to replace them with LED's. Just inquiring if anyone has done this and is there any tricks that I need to know to add