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Working as it did before the change…. M

Steve, Are you suggesting the removal of the AF mod? Do you have instructions? Many thank, Malcolm.

Thanks for your thoughts! I get audio, but not the level that I’ve had with other examples. The AF gain is at around the 3pm position all of the time. Vol with headphones is also low-level. M

Implementation of the mods is my suspect No. 1. I will assume that the audio amp mod was done. Look around the work done to install that amp. Cold solder joints, broken wires, etc. The extreme

M0HKG - Martin via groups.io writes: It's not a proper Britishization if they didn't insert all the missing 'u's :-) --lyndon (whose view on this is coloured by being Canadian)

From my cursory flick through, I'd say that the adaptions for British and Commonwealth Usage comprise replacing the work tube with valve, and 110 VAC / 60 Hz with 240 VAC / 50 Hz. I did think that

Sorry, Damien G3XER ________________________________ Sent: 19 March 2024 15:43 To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] R-4C Low audio output Hello Malcolm, I am

Hello Malcolm, I am sure you will get plenty of good advice but, for what it is worth, I do not think changing all the tubes was a good idea! 73 Damien B3XER ________________________________ Sent:

Hi, Malcolm.? I presume the S-meter is moving in time with any input signal(s). If yes, check the?1/4" headphone jack in the front of the radio. There may be sufficient corrosion to prevent the

Just obtained an R-4C from eBay (I don’t recommend this as a source!). The radio appears to have Sherwood mods (see photo). The radio works on all band, but with the RF Gain on Max, and the AF Gain

Boy did you hit a nerve asking about learning Vacuum tubes. I did not know there were still dinosaurs around. Remember first The UK uses Valves not Tubes. My laugh for today Don

WOW! What a response! Thanks for all the collective wisdom, and the suggestions. I've jumped on a few web sites and admired the author's workshops and their projects - especially Dr. Greg

Try McMater-Carr... They have a multitude of various rubber feet and bumpers available.? Not the cheapest around, but a large variety. A lower "durometer" number means softer, higher indicates

Paul, Thanks for sharing the information about the Fluke 8060a. I also have an 8060a and would like a copy of the instructions and bom for replacing the electrolytic caps. 73, Bob

Just looked on Amazon...lots of "soft rubber feet for Cutting Board"....maybe depends on whose "soft" tho Jim

Still have my 77 from the days at Digital, where in the location closing they said "you can take your tools with you if you want". Works fine (the intermittent displays seemed to come with the 8x

Now that I'm back at my shack, I can attest that the 70 series meter that I have is the 77. It's in excellent shape and is still holding its calibration, as far as I can tell without having a

The speed factor that I look at for DMMs is how quickly the beep reacts when doing continuity testing. The Flukes seem to be mostly pretty fast. Cheaper DMMs (yes I have some of those too) less so.

I have a WV-98C also. Love that huge meter. The other one is I think a WV-97A which is the usual form factor for VTVMs of that type. It works too but doesn't get used as much as its big

I like the 8050A a lot too.? I also like the 8842A.? Wish it had the AC option.? Seems like I've read where someone made a clone of the AC option board. For tube gear, my go to meter is the