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Peter, It looks like those might work, however, I suspect that there is no way to use the red pointer with one. I am still hoping to find out how to put the one I have back together. Nothing is

Even at? 400ma (total) cathode current, those 15Ω cathode resistors (@200ma ea)? would only dissipate (I 2 R) about 0.6W Since no one (ever) operates a T4X key down at 400ma , 1W cathode resistors

Gary, My Plan A is to use a clamp just as you suggested, even if I need to fabricate one. However, after playing around with the vernier today I am not sure how to assemble it so it has the required

The screen resistors are 1/2 watt, as built. This may help you. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/) secure email.

Maybe I'm just being too exacting about this, but I cannot seem to find any one supplier that has in stock both of the "oversized" precision sizes of cathode and screen grid resistors that have been

Hi John, I have connectors on order for two sets of extenders.? They should arrive tomorrow.? It appears you can use a set right away and could be a way for me to test the first prototype set I

Bear in mind also that it is not difficult to power up individual boards "naked" on the workbench to do some basic troubleshooting. 73 -Jim NU0C "John B" <wb9fhl@...> wrote:

Absolutely correct Peter. I have never manufactured the extenders. 73 -Jim NU0C "VE7PS" <ve7ps@...> wrote:

How about installing a Jackson Bros 6:1 ball drive on the sub-panel? You could even use one of the more rare, dual speed ones, for very precise control. I've used these on homebrew VHF amps with great

Now I see..? the C-line is different from my A and B lines! If it does depend on pre-load like you say, you just need a big clamp..? and remove the final cage and tubes. My biggest clam is not big

I am really puzzled now. After closer inspection I am back to having no idea how the preload is set. My initial thought of getting the allen screws into the groove on the main shaft while compressing

Mark, Those are dead ends.? Spoke to Bob the other day and he sold off his lot of extender boards years ago, but didn't remember who bought them.? Other avenues have also dried up. 73,? John

Thanks Pete,? ?Got to get it up on my bench and do a visual and mechanical inspection...hopefully that may reveal an obvious problem. 73, John

Thanks Dave.? I do plan to do a thorough mechanical cleaning before proceeding with troubleshooting board by board.? Just got to get it on the bench first. 73, John

Gary & Steve, Gary, 1) The 1st pic I sent is the drive disassembled. However, the only parts missing in the pic are the bearings and the Allen set screws. Compared to your drive, it does look like it

I don't think so.? Unless the shaft is worn like shown in the article I attached above. The non 90degree mounting shaft is just so it can fit the hole in the chassis and allow it to be bent as needed

Mark: Jim Shorney can check in later after work....but I do not believe he ever made TR-7 extender cards to sell to others....or even for himself. That link on Ron's page refers to extender card sets

Interesting and timely thread!? I'm working on a homebrew legal-limit antenna tuner that an old friend of mine started building years ago but did not finish before he passed away in 2018.? I need a

John, Have you checked with Jim Shorney?? He makes the extender boards. Go to Ron's web page here: Drake Membervellia (wb4hfn.com) ( http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakePartsService.htm ) Mike Bryce,

That drive looks like it has been worked on before and not properly reassembled. There should be a second part that covers the bearings like in the first photo. These drives also need a pre-loading,