On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 09:32:59 PM EST, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
Your L7 S/N is close to mine, I would perform the grid current meter calibration step to verify the meter functionality which is supplied by a voltage divider network (1 ohm 12w resistor) into a 200ua meter movement.?
I used an adjustable current / voltage bench top power supply and my Fluke 87 DMM set to madc, I checked it with the Fluke and power supply first then I put the grid circuit in series, there is an adjustment on the metering board.?
My plate current meter has an external shunt on the back of the meter and can be checked in a similar way as the grid current setup + to test point “A” (Orange wire near edge of board) and the return would be pin 6 on the rear connector for the
plate circuit.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 4:57?PM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening
is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser
as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed
On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7’s Schadow push button switches is “Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?”?
If not they might need cleaning.?
There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73’蝉
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Your L7 S/N is close to mine, I would perform the grid current meter calibration step to verify the meter functionality which is supplied by a voltage divider network (1 ohm 12w resistor) into a 200ua meter movement.?
I used an adjustable current / voltage bench top power supply and my Fluke 87 DMM set to madc, I checked it with the Fluke and power supply first then I put the grid circuit in series, there is an adjustment on the metering board.?
My plate current meter has an external shunt on the back of the meter and can be checked in a similar way as the grid current setup + to test point “A” (Orange wire near edge of board) and the return would be pin 6 on the rear connector for the
plate circuit.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 4:57?PM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening
is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser
as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed
On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7’s Schadow push button switches is “Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?”?
If not they might need cleaning.?
There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73’蝉
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: AFG/RFG controls R4C (W1ES)
I just jumpered the RFG and used an on/off/volume pot on my TR-3.? I never use the RFG on any radios I own.
|
Thanks Thomas its not the switches for the meter and other aspects of the meter forward watts reflected watts etc, it all works, lights are on etc. Pushing the Ep volts meter several times changes nothing what is happening is I read 1600V no load in the CW position and 2300 in the SSB position, the supply is not the issue. I'm thinking its the meter shunts one of them anyway. As I read the schematic R8 through R15 are the shunts 2.2 Meg and 1/2 watt. I have those from Mouser as of today. I have not opened the L7 but I believe they are located right behind the 3-500Z tubes in a clear sleeve probably made of woven glass pure fiber which acts like a heat resistant cover or its just heat shrink tubing.
Any info appreciated especially for anyone who has actually changed the shunts in an L7. The S/N on this L7 is 2960.
Thanks Tim
WB8UHZ
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 03:20:43 PM EST, Clayton kk4iz via groups.io <kk4iz284@...> wrote:
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7’s Schadow push button switches is “Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?”? If not they might need cleaning.? There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
? Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73’蝉
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
I recommend cranking the dial back just a tad on the toaster.
Barry - N4BUQ
Here's a good pic of the "toasted" dial, this one being from an Ebay ad:
Likewise in regards getting a couple for spares. There must have been a process or vendor problem to explain the toasted dials. I've only ever seen it on the B .
John
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 11:37?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: I have one that is also toasted, so not much use.? We need someone here who is skilful with transferring images to other media (plastic) to create some new dials.? I would gladly buy a couple to have on-hand, as well as some correct dials for the C Line.
Yes, I said it.? The C Line dials that have been for sale are not acceptable for use as such.? The hole patterns are off but worse is that the 100s dial has tick marks at the same spacing as the 10s dial.? This was a major mistake that renders the 100s dial useless.? If anyone knows the owner of the company providing these, perhaps we could get it fixed.
And yes... I would buy a couple of sets to use as spares.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, January 7th, 2025 at 10:43 AM, John K5MO via <johnk5mo= [email protected]> wrote:
My R4B has a "toasted" dial. I've seen them turn out this way when it's left in the sun, but usually only that section that is exposed. This one seems darkened throughout.
Anyone have an extra for sale?? I see Radio Daze has repro's for the C line but not the B.
Thanks and HNY
John
|
Re: Anyone have an R4B dial?
Here's a good pic of the "toasted" dial, this one being from an Ebay ad:
Likewise in regards getting a couple for spares.
There must have been a process or vendor problem to explain the toasted dials. I've only ever seen it on the B .
John
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 11:37?AM Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via <w1es= [email protected]> wrote: I have one that is also toasted, so not much use.? We need someone here who is skilful with transferring images to other media (plastic) to create some new dials.? I would gladly buy a couple to have on-hand, as well as some correct dials for the C Line.
Yes, I said it.? The C Line dials that have been for sale are not acceptable for use as such.? The hole patterns are off but worse is that the 100s dial has tick marks at the same spacing as the 10s dial.? This was a major mistake that renders the 100s dial useless.? If anyone knows the owner of the company providing these, perhaps we could get it fixed.
And yes... I would buy a couple of sets to use as spares.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Tuesday, January 7th, 2025 at 10:43 AM, John K5MO via <johnk5mo= [email protected]> wrote:
My R4B has a "toasted" dial. I've seen them turn out this way when it's left in the sun, but usually only that section that is exposed. This one seems darkened throughout.
Anyone have an extra for sale?? I see Radio Daze has repro's for the C line but not the B.
Thanks and HNY
John
|
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
The PTO needs very good buffering. Otherwise the signal drops and sensitivity is reduced significantly. I used an FET as a source follower with 50 ohms. So you can connect standard coax.? Of course to feed your FS4B, Gary! ? 73, Dieter DL5RDO
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Am 07.01.2025 um 22:23 schrieb Gary WB6OGD via groups.io <winbladgary@...>:
? If you don’t really need to see the MHz,? you could tap the PTO signal, it is larger and is the same for all bands. 73, Gary? WB6OGD On Jan 7, 2025, at 10:05?AM, Paul Christensen via groups.io <w9ac@...> wrote:
? Possibly consider a J310 JFET as a common-source amp placed right at the source of the INJ jack. Resistors chosen for a gain of A = 2 (6 dB) to get over the minimum RF sample voltage requirement. ? ? The JFET unloads the INJ line to the Hi-Z gate and that isolates the INJ source from cable capacitance to the freq. counter.? With adequate PS decoupling, probably a half-dozen parts are needed, mounted either on a 5-6 lug terminal strip or Vector board.? ? The common I.F. output buffers often seen are common-drain source-followers with a gain of less than 1.0.? That won’t work in this instance to solve the problem.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
If you don’t really need to see the MHz,? you could tap the PTO signal, it is larger and is the same for all bands. 73, Gary? WB6OGD
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 10:05?AM, Paul Christensen via groups.io <w9ac@...> wrote:
? Possibly consider a J310 JFET as a common-source amp placed right at the source of the INJ jack. Resistors chosen for a gain of A = 2 (6 dB) to get over the minimum RF sample voltage requirement. ? ? The JFET unloads the INJ line to the Hi-Z gate and that isolates the INJ source from cable capacitance to the freq. counter.? With adequate PS decoupling, probably a half-dozen parts are needed, mounted either on a 5-6 lug terminal strip or Vector board.? ? The common I.F. output buffers often seen are common-drain source-followers with a gain of less than 1.0.? That won’t work in this instance to solve the problem.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Actually I made a mistake. Mine are 3/8 by 1 and 1/8.?
Are your about 1 and 1/8 Long ? ?That would be great.?
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Could be your lucky day. I found four.
?
Doug
?
?
?
Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
I have one. 5/8” long.
?
?
Doug
?
?
|
Another source for Mn2000 broken insulator
If one wanted to switch to phenolic spacers like those used in some MN-2700 tuners, eBay has quite a selection. ?Might even have the ideal size, if not, they are easily cut to length with a hacksaw.
Looks like these have become a valued part. ?My local Tru-Value hardware store has nylon spacers, various lengths, various diameters, threaded and unthreaded. ?Not sure about the big box stores or other areas of the country.
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Looks like these have become a valued part. ?My local Tru-Value hardware store has nylon spacers, various lengths, various diameters, threaded and unthreaded. ?Not sure about the big box stores or other areas of the country.
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Could be your lucky day. I found four. ? Doug ? ? ? Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
They can also easily be homebrewed with solid teflon or delrin rod.?
|
I did check for shorts and loose wires. I clean the push buttons with a good contact clean ?but still no meter movement the lights do come on when pushed On Jan 7, 2025, at 1:47?PM, Thomas W9TAB via groups.io <electron@...> wrote:
A good diagnostic check of the L7’s Schadow push button switches is “Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?”? If not they might need cleaning.? There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
? Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--?
73
-Jim
NU0C
73’蝉
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: Partial listing of Drake for sale
How much for the L4B manual? On Jan 7, 2025, at 2:03?PM, Evan via groups.io <k9sqg@...> wrote:
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,
In response to the inquiries I still have...
L7 original new manual PS-7 original new manual L4B original manual Heathkit SB-200 (mint, pickup in Dayton) Johnson Ranger (tech special, pickup in Dayton)
I'll list some additional parts and such as I try to thin out my inventory.
Happy New Year!
73,
Evan, K9SQG
73’蝉
KK4IZ
Amateur Radio Operator
Warren Bryant?
124 Crestview Dr
Clanton,AL.??35045
Email:?KK4IZ284@...
Cell: 205-389-4170
|
Re: Mn2000 broken insulator
Wow! ?Does anyone know where I can find a set like that. I need four for a Drake MN-4C
Same size.?
VE7LXX
Lorne?
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Show quoted text
I have one. 5/8” long.
?
?
Doug
?
?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Paul N5NEN via groups.io
Sent: January 6, 2025 6:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [DRAKE-RADIO] Mn2000 broken insulator
?
Broken standoffs (2) on front of capacitors. What can I find for replacement parts?
|
Partial listing of Drake for sale
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,
In response to the inquiries I still have...
L7 original new manual PS-7 original new manual L4B original manual Heathkit SB-200 (mint, pickup in Dayton) Johnson Ranger (tech special, pickup in Dayton)
I'll list some additional parts and such as I try to thin out my inventory.
Happy New Year!
73,
Evan, K9SQG
|
A good diagnostic check of the L7’s Schadow push button switches is “Does the accompanying light come on with each switch selection?”?
If not they might need cleaning.?
There are two sections for each switch, one for the indicator and the other for the function.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:47?AM, amfone via groups.io <amfone20000@...> wrote:
?
Thank you to all for all of the good advice, much much appreciated!
Tim
WB8UHZ
On Monday, January 6, 2025 at 08:41:00 PM EST, Jim Shorney via groups.io <jimnu0c@...> wrote:
Your front panel pushbuttons may need a good cleaning.
On Mon, 6 Jan 2025 08:11:41 -0600
"Clayton kk4iz via groups.io" <KK4IZ284@...> wrote:
> I have a L-7 and neither meter is working. I have not checked to see if? the watt meeter works.
--
73
-Jim
NU0C
|
|
|
Re: Using the PLJ-6LED digital display with the R4C
Possibly consider a J310 JFET as a common-source amp placed right at the source of the INJ jack. Resistors chosen for a gain of A = 2 (6 dB) to get over the minimum RF sample voltage requirement. ? ? The JFET unloads the INJ line to the Hi-Z gate and that isolates the INJ source from cable capacitance to the freq. counter.? With adequate PS decoupling, probably a half-dozen parts are needed, mounted either on a 5-6 lug terminal strip or Vector board.? ? The common I.F. output buffers often seen are common-drain source-followers with a gain of less than 1.0.? That won’t work in this instance to solve the problem.? ? Paul, W9AC
|
Thomas W9TAB
Gary WB6OGD
Paul Christensen