Re: DRAKE TECHNICAL NET UPDATE ( March 19, 2023 )
No problem - it was just a suggestion since I would like to be able to check in with my Twins.
I will keep looking for better band conditions in the rising sunspot cycle.
- Steve? W7SJT
"Always look for a positive solution then Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome" - Adaptation of the U.S. Marine Corps motto
"There are no rules here!...We're trying to accomplish something!!"
- Thomas Edison
"Success is not final, failure is not fatal.? It is the courage to continue that counts." -?Winston Churchill
On Tuesday, March 21, 2023 at 02:15:29 PM MDT, Mark - WB0IQK <mgilger@...> wrote:
We tried a 20 meter net many years ago and it never worked out. Very limited check-ins.? We also had a 75m swap net and had to disband that some years ago due to lack of participation.?
73's,
Mark, WB0IQK?
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Re: DRAKE TECHNICAL NET UPDATE ( March 19, 2023 )
We tried a 20 meter net many years ago and it never worked out. Very limited check-ins.? We also had a 75m swap net and had to disband that some years ago due to lack of participation.?
73's,
Mark, WB0IQK?
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Re: Rob, Question re your "Custom Front Panel Switch" mod
The performance of ceramic caps depends on the exact type of material.? npo type are very good ,? it is the "hi k" type that have problems.? Temperature compensating caps have charities similar to NPO.? The best performance overall is polypropylene.? Look up polypropylene and mylar to see the differences.? Old tubular caps are not all paper but most are. Plastic film caps are in all ways superior.
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-------- Original message -------- From: Gary Follett <xntrick1948@...> Date: 3/21/23 10:21 AM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [DRAKE-RADIO] Rob, Question re your "Custom Front Panel Switch" mod
Ceramic capacitors are bottom rung devices, with differing temperature coefficients depending on type (NPO being the best for routine cooling and bypassing applications). They do not fare well at low frequencies and they can be quite noisy, even somewhat microphonic.They are generally not used in signal path applications.
The tubular ones to which you refer are, at this radio¡¯s vintage, paper capacitors. They are non-polarized except for the fact that the outermost metallization is typically tied to ground to reduce noise pickup and to ensure that the outermost layer is at ground potential. That is why these types often (not always) have a band on one end to indicate which end should be grounded.
To replace these capacitors, the best choice would be modern Mylar capacitors, readily available for DigiKey or Mouser. I always buy 630 volt devices so I only need to stock one drawer of each value. There is no downside to using higher than needed voltage rated parts, other than size. However, the modern parts are so much smaller than the originals that this is not an issue.
The biggest issue with modern parts is that the leads are often not long enough to reach the tie points in older radios (particularly in Collins radios). That won¡¯t be a problem generally with Drake radios though.
Gary
W0DVN On Mar 21, 2023, at 11:37 AM, Bill Leonard N0CU <billincolo73@...> wrote:
I don't see any mention as to what type of capacitors to use. The reason I ask is I don't know why Drake used large tubular capacitors in their design. Is there any reason ceramic capacitors can't be used?
--
Bill N0CU
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R4C power supply question
In comparing early and later R4C power supply schematics, a capacitor (C201) was added going from the output of the low voltage diodes to the high end of the filament string. It is listed as 20uf 150V. I am attaching a schematic showing it. I was wondering what its purpose was and why it was added. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought it might have something to do with audio hum.?
?
Doug, WA3DSP
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Re: Rob, Question re your "Custom Front Panel Switch" mod
Ceramic capacitors are bottom rung devices, with differing temperature coefficients depending on type (NPO being the best for routine cooling and bypassing applications). They do not fare well at low frequencies and they can be quite noisy, even somewhat microphonic.They are generally not used in signal path applications.
The tubular ones to which you refer are, at this radio¡¯s vintage, paper capacitors. They are non-polarized except for the fact that the outermost metallization is typically tied to ground to reduce noise pickup and to ensure that the outermost layer is at ground potential. That is why these types often (not always) have a band on one end to indicate which end should be grounded.
To replace these capacitors, the best choice would be modern Mylar capacitors, readily available for DigiKey or Mouser. I always buy 630 volt devices so I only need to stock one drawer of each value. There is no downside to using higher than needed voltage rated parts, other than size. However, the modern parts are so much smaller than the originals that this is not an issue.
The biggest issue with modern parts is that the leads are often not long enough to reach the tie points in older radios (particularly in Collins radios). That won¡¯t be a problem generally with Drake radios though.
Gary
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On Mar 21, 2023, at 11:37 AM, Bill Leonard N0CU <billincolo73@...> wrote:
I don't see any mention as to what type of capacitors to use. The reason I ask is I don't know why Drake used large tubular capacitors in their design. Is there any reason ceramic capacitors can't be used?
--
Bill N0CU
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Re: Rob, Question re your "Custom Front Panel Switch" mod
Hi Bill,
I use Mylar capacitors. ?Leakage and Q, but I suppose you could try ceramic.?
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On Mar 21, 2023, at 10:37 AM, Bill Leonard N0CU <billincolo73@...> wrote:
?I don't see any mention as to what type of capacitors to use. The reason I ask is I don't know why Drake used large tubular capacitors in their design. Is there any reason ceramic capacitors can't be used?
--
Bill N0CU
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Rob, Question re your "Custom Front Panel Switch" mod
I don't see any mention as to what type of capacitors to use. The reason I ask is I don't know why Drake used large tubular capacitors in their design. Is there any reason ceramic capacitors can't be used?
--
Bill N0CU
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Re: R4C 1500hz crystal filter damaged
Hi Rob,
It is Network Sciences
Date Code (?) 7905
Thanks Lionel?
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One caution!
If the knob is loose, please do NOT overtighten the set screw. This will surely result in the knob being stripped or split.?
If it's loose because the shaft is hard to turn, remove the knob and fix the problem preventing the rotation (usually some thin oil in the shaft/bushing of the control) , then reattach the knob.
You got this!
John K5MO
On Tue, Mar 21, 2023 at 8:34?AM Dave Edwards < kd2e@...> wrote: A normal selector switch.
Is your knob set screw loose?
....Dave
On 3/20/23 9:28 PM, Dave via wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> Last summer I picked up a 2-C to go with my 2-NT.
> I have been using it for CW without any troubles.
> I tried to listen to some SSB signals tonight and I found a problem...
>
> I cannot tune in the SSB signals, the mode control just spins around
> and has no effect.
>
> This is the first time I have tried to listen to SSB so this is new to
> me.
>
> Looking at the schematic before I open it up it looks like the mode
> switch should have a few positions to it and not just spin around.
>
> Am I correct?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> Dave KC3AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
A normal selector switch.
Is your knob set screw loose?
....Dave
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On 3/20/23 9:28 PM, Dave via groups.io wrote: Hello everyone,
Last summer I picked up a 2-C to go with my 2-NT.
I have been using it for CW without any troubles.
I tried to listen to some SSB signals tonight and I found a problem...
I cannot tune in the SSB signals, the mode control just spins around and has no effect.
This is the first time I have tried to listen to SSB so this is new to me.
Looking at the schematic before I open it up it looks like the mode switch should have a few positions to it and not just spin around.
Am I correct?
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
That knob should most certainly operate with a click at each position, allowing reception of AM, USB and LSB/CW.
There are two possibilities. One is simple, that the set screw for the knob is loose. I think this is a setscrew type knob¡
If the set screw is very tight but you still cannot get a switch action, remove the knob and have a look at the shaft. Try to turn it gently with a pliers. If you get the same result, remove the cover and have a look at the coupling between the small inner shaft and the switch behind it to see if it is loose or broken. That coupling is below the chassis (underside) towards the back, with the shaft going between the coils of the bandpass filter coils.
Try that. If no joy, I have the last possibility you. Don¡¯t want to hear unless you are really good at repair work.
Gary
W0DVN
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On Mar 20, 2023, at 8:28 PM, Dave via groups.io <kc3am@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,
Last summer I picked up a 2-C to go with my 2-NT.
I have been using it for CW without any troubles.
I tried to listen to some SSB signals tonight and I found a problem...
I cannot tune in the SSB signals, the mode control just spins around and has no effect.
This is the first time I have tried to listen to SSB so this is new to me.
Looking at the schematic before I open it up it looks like the mode switch should have a few positions to it and not just spin around.
Am I correct?
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
Hello everyone,
Last summer I picked up a 2-C to go with my 2-NT.
I have been using it for CW without any troubles.
I tried to listen to some SSB signals tonight and I found a problem...
I cannot tune in the SSB signals, the mode control just spins around and has no effect.
This is the first time I have tried to listen to SSB so this is new to me.
Looking at the schematic before I open it up it looks like the mode switch should have a few positions to it and not just spin around.
Am I correct?
Thanks much,
Dave KC3AM
|
Doug,
Yeah, its personal preference at this point.? Some guys figure its supposed to be Lagoon Blue so they use blue LEDs.? OOH, not for me.
Warm white is what I think is best but...? I bought the WHITE but it was waaayy too blue for me.
I was happy I could use varying amounts of yellow to get it just right for my liking.? I like the kind of "aqua" color.. remember the old Mackintosh amps?
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
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Re: R4C 1500hz crystal filter damaged
I was going to post the exact same thing.
I second it... JB WELD should fix it.? You probably need to make it a little thicker than the original
insulator for strength.? If it doesn't plug in quite as deep, that should still be ok.
Before you go to the trouble though, you may want to confirm that the filter does still work and
the connection is not broken inside.
73,
Gary
WB6OGD
On 03/20/2023 5:34 PM Steve Toth via groups.io <stoth47@...> wrote:
Lionel,
Possible solution FWIW:
Pull the pin out of the case to the position you want it
Do some careful horizontal surface scoring near the base of the pin (small file, nail file, etc.) - don't go too deep and compromise the integrity of the pin!
Epoxy around the base of the pin over the horizontal scoring with JB Weld
Let the JB Weld cure for the full recommended time.
The goal is to have the JB Weld fill into the scoring and "grip" the pin from receding back into the filter case.
I have used this on pin replacements, using brass nails, in classic car dashboard circuit boards that serviced plug in connectors and have had 100% success.
- Steve? W7SJT
"Always look for a positive solution then Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome"
- Adaptation of the U.S. Marine Corps motto
"There are no rules here!...We're trying to accomplish something!!"
- Thomas Edison
"Success is not final, failure is not fatal.? It is the courage to continue that counts."
-?Winston Churchill
On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 03:10:06 PM MDT, Lionel B <n5lb@...> wrote:
One of the pins is pushed back into the filter case. I can gently pull it back into position but have found no way to secure the pin from outside of the case.
I have tried various cements, epoxy, super glue without success.? The pin will always push in as the filter is plugged into the socket.? It seems a lost cause.??
Has anyone encountered this problem?? Is it now a throw away filter???
|
Re: R4C 1500hz crystal filter damaged
Lionel, Possible solution FWIW:
Pull the pin out of the case to the position you want it
Do some careful horizontal surface scoring near the base of the pin (small file, nail file, etc.) - don't go too deep and compromise the integrity of the pin!
Epoxy around the base of the pin over the horizontal scoring with JB Weld
Let the JB Weld cure for the full recommended time.
The goal is to have the JB Weld fill into the scoring and "grip" the pin from receding back into the filter case.
I have used this on pin replacements, using brass nails, in classic car dashboard circuit boards that serviced plug in connectors and have had 100% success.
- Steve? W7SJT "Always look for a positive solution then Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome" - Adaptation of the U.S. Marine Corps motto
"There are no rules here!...We're trying to accomplish something!!"
- Thomas Edison
"Success is not final, failure is not fatal.? It is the courage to continue that counts." -?Winston Churchill
On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 03:10:06 PM MDT, Lionel B <n5lb@...> wrote:
One of the pins is pushed back into the filter case. I can gently pull it back into position but have found no way to secure the pin from outside of the case.
I have tried various cements, epoxy, super glue without success.? The pin will always push in as the filter is plugged into the socket.? It seems a lost cause.??
Has anyone encountered this problem?? Is it now a throw away filter???
|
Re: R4C 1500hz crystal filter damaged
Which OEM made the filter? ?Rob, NC0B
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On Mar 20, 2023, at 3:09 PM, Lionel B <N5LB@...> wrote:
?One of the pins is pushed back into the filter case. I can gently pull it back into position but have found no way to secure the pin from outside of the case.
I have tried various cements, epoxy, super glue without success.? The pin will always push in as the filter is plugged into the socket.? It seems a lost cause.??
Has anyone encountered this problem?? Is it now a throw away filter???
|
R4C 1500hz crystal filter damaged
One of the pins is pushed back into the filter case. I can gently pull it back into position but have found no way to secure the pin from outside of the case.
I have tried various cements, epoxy, super glue without success.? The pin will always push in as the filter is plugged into the socket.? It seems a lost cause.??
Has anyone encountered this problem?? Is it now a throw away filter???
|
Gary,
?I did the same thing but I found the bright white to look the best in my 4C line. However, I was not using the same style bulb. It is convenient to use the bayonet style though as it is just a bulb swap. I bought both warm and white LED's and I have generally used the white. Although the original incandescent bulbs were very yellow, the white LED's filtered through the blue seemed to look better. I guess it is a matter of taste and also most are used to what the incandescent looked like.
Here is something similar to what I used -
https://www.amazon.com/EverBright-10-Pack-Replacement-Pinball-Chipsets/dp/B084RMC8CL/ref=sr_1_15
?
Doug, WA3DSP
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Re: DRAKE TECHNICAL NET UPDATE ( March 19, 2023 )
I'm in south central Montana and can only hear the net down in the noise on 40 - unintelligible.
The Collins group has a weekly net on 20 meters that I can easily copy on the high end of 20.
Suggestion: How about a 20 meter Drake Tech Net on 14.238 Mhz (or somewhere close)? Same day, same time or same day, different time?
- Steve? W7SJT "Always look for a positive solution then Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome" - adaptation of the U.S. Marine Corps motto
"There are no rules here!...We're trying to accomplish something!!"
- Thomas Edison
"Success is not final, failure is not fatal.? It is the courage to continue that counts." -?Winston Churchill
?
On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 01:01:41 PM MDT, Rick WA6III <myr748@...> wrote:
On Sun, Mar 19, 2023 at 02:11 PM, M Gilger wrote:
WB0IQK
I would sure like to participate in a 40m "Drake Net" but I cannot hear anyone on the above net. There doesn't seem to be one (40M) reachable from the West Coast.? There is some sort of a Drake net on 75m but they all seem to be SOCAL based.? Usually pretty weak and noisy in the pacific Northwest. Has anyone considered a late afternoon 40m group/net that might be more accessable to the NW (UT, ID, MT, WA, OR) etc? --
73/Rick
WA6III
*Every post is created using Linux
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Re: DRAKE TECHNICAL NET UPDATE ( March 19, 2023 )
On Sun, Mar 19, 2023 at 02:11 PM, M Gilger wrote:
WB0IQK
I would sure like to participate in a 40m "Drake Net" but I cannot hear anyone on the above net. There doesn't seem to be one (40M) reachable from the West Coast.? There is some sort of a Drake net on 75m but they all seem to be SOCAL based.? Usually pretty weak and noisy in the pacific Northwest. Has anyone considered a late afternoon 40m group/net that might be more accessable to the NW (UT, ID, MT, WA, OR) etc? --
73/Rick
WA6III
*Every post is created using Linux
|
Doug Crompton WA3DSP
Rob Sherwood
Gary WB6OGD