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Mike, FYI in Drake parlance this is known as the "Jumper Board" and is described as such in the TR7 service manual. 73 -Jim NU0C "Mike Bryce" <prosolar@...> wrote:

I don’t have the answer to that. I did, however, throw out some carbon resistors recently (and I’m in an ongoing process with my stock, which dates back decades) that were grossly out of spec,

Steve, I agree. This is more of a temporary fix for me. Once I get everything working I will go back and replace them with new parts. What I don't remember is what is the drift profile of carbon comp

This is a standard sized wafer that has a quirky difference from a standard 2 pole 5 position wafer. The Common for one side is in the middle instead of at one end. You get around this by drilling out

Those are the boards that I have and they work very well. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS

That is also an advantage. Slightly OT, general purpose grease on the PTO bearings is what Drake used and its use also helped keep those 10 balls in place during reassembly. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

The problem with that with respect to the cathode and screen resistors is that the out of tolerance parts will continue to drift out of tolerance. It’s best to use new replacements of the original

dave and the group, finding .156 connectors are easy—digikey and mouser have them by the millions! However, you need to know the series like KK or KW, KS, the pitch. Do you want locking tabs? What

Can anybody tell me where to get the .156 connectors from please? Thanks Dave G4FAW

Steve & Joe, I was suspecting that oiling the bearings could cause slipping. However, both of the veriers I have were packed with a thick grease. So, I will follow Steve's recommendation and try some

Gary, That is my plan. I am going to stop at Harbor Freight today and pick up an 8 in C clamp. I have been thinking about how the assembly should go. My theory of the moment is that the preload

Since I have several boxes full of resistors, I have simply been measuring the starting resistance and calculating what parallel resistance is needed. I trimmed the meter shunt to 1% and matched the

Hi, gang! Several years ago, I came out with a set of extender boards for the TR7. They consisted of a board set for each specific card. One for the Audio/IF, another for the power supply/osc board,

Why not just buy from Mouser or Digikey? Both located in the USA. Better pricing and more variety available and an excellent on line catalog, no minimum order. 73, Jim W7RY -- Thanks and 73, Jim W7RY

Yes, these guys are great. I’ve bought lots of caps from them. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS

I use heavy wheel bearing grease. It provides plenty of friction. I won’t look up the brand, as the jar of this stuff is from the 1950’s and has been a lifetime supply for both my dad and me.

I often buy parts from justradios.com - here is the resistor link - https://www.justradios.com/resistors.html Doug, WA3DSP

Curious if anyone has ever used either a 12DQ7 or 12BV7 in place of the 12BY7 in a T4XC?? I have to search through my thousands of tubes and while I will primarily be looking for a 12BY7 I was just

Thanks for the practical, common sense application feedback guys. For wattage it looks like I will stick with the original specs, maybe go 1 watt, and also not be overly focused on tighter value

There is NO reason these resistors need to be 1%. 5 or even 10% are fine and you can always select from a stash to match them if that is your thing. They don't even need to be exactly the specified