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Aha! Jim, you solved a mystery for me, as I knew I had seen those connectors somewhere else. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from [Proton

They are similar to Tektronix Peltola connectors in the way they work. https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Peltola_connector Roughly RG174 size cable with a solid center conductor that slips into a socket

*** I'm guessing they're made by the Unobtanium corporation. In my radio, I mostly have trouble with the outer ground clip, which gets loosy-goosy on cables that get plugged and unplugged. Especially

What is the name/description, manufacturer, and part number of these coaxial connectors? Also, what is the particular coaxial cable or cables that are compatible with these connectors? Thanks/73,

I don't really think this is necessary as the DR7 does not draw a huge amount of current. If you notice, the connector pins are arranged so the plug will work either way it was plugged in. Based on

I bought them on Ebay. The listing was called: "4 Pin Molex Connector Kit, 22-26 AWG .100 Pins Arcade Pinball" And the vendor was "yorktown_arcade_supply" *** I seem to remember using a pretty

I have seen folks discuss that they have doubled up the power pins to the DR7 (the connector has 4 positions, but only 2 pins are used). As I am putting together an order for maintenance parts while

A friend who is a new ham and I have taken on a project TR7 in hopes of getting it on the air for him. I have enjoyed mine for 40 years. As we were doing inspection of the plug-in boards (well aware

*** Thank you. I used the largest heatsink available at heatsinkusa.com. The fins are vertical for good convection, and stick out the back of the unit. Most people seem to use heatsinks inside the

Now I would suspect R227 and R228. I'm assuming that you were able to adjust L210 to spec. You should see the steps in voltage superimposed on the bias from the diodes on the cathode of CR216. 73 -Jim

Yes I am getting the stepping voltage at P202 pin 8 and also at Pin 1 of 106.? Still troubleshooting. I also found the voltages across the diodes to be ok. Bob

It is unusual for an LDMOS amp to be quieter than your Alpha, so you have done an exceptional design job with cooling. On the other hand, the Alpha will be 15 dB cleaner on intermodulation. Rob, NC0B

*** You can count me into that group. My homebrew LDMOS amp is smaller, lighter, more efficient and quieter. It makes 1100 - 1200W output running off the 125VAC 15A circuit, which I don't think any

I concur with this. Bob, what makes you suspect the diodes? Are you getting the stepping voltage at P202 pin 8? 73 -Jim NU0C "Rick K8EZB" <frboswell@...> wrote: -- 73 -Jim NU0C

Jim thanks for the hints. That is the exact area I am looking at. I suspect a problem with diodes? 1N4148 in series. Will remove the board and replace them because it is easier than disconnecting and

I think one of the luckiest things about buying tubes right now, except for the price, is a lot of people are trying solid state amplifiers. I think this is freeing up some stock of tubes that people

Here are the dimensions on the ones I have. Look the same as yours. -- 73, Kevin, K8KVN

I replaced it but no change. Thanks...????? Mark

Hello to all. Enjoy this Drake list, but post very seldom. I’ve decided to get my 2B back going in the main shack. Have always had a desire to pair it with a fairly rare 2BS matching speaker. Does

Indeed. When I got an Alpha 78, I gagged at the cost of 3CX400A7 tubes. Actually their total unavailability. So on Ebay, I scored some "spares". These were 3CX400U7 tubes, electrically identical but