The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Mark - WB0IQK <mgilger@...>
Description:
2005 Article written by Gary, W8PU on repairing a worn Vernier drive.
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Bill respond to me direct and maybe we can work out something.? email is bobk6oxn at gmail dot com.?
73? Bob K6OXN
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Did you notice that four pin connector layout was designed to be impossible to accidentally reverse the polarity? It plugs in either way with the correct connections. It's a little subtlety that I overlooked for probably thirty years... 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 16:32:18 -0800 "jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote: There's a four-pin connector for power on that board. Only two of the
pins
are used. But power and ground are also brought to the other - unused -
pins.
I got a new connector, and wired up all four pins. More secure. -- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Thanks Jim,
Appreciate it.
73
Bill
W4WCS
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Tanks Steve,
Appreciate it.
73
Bill
W4WCS
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Thanks Bob,
I do have an RV-75. It is the roughest of all in condition. Untested by me. But probably the only one I would sell stand alone.
Will advise.
73
Bill
W4WCS
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Stan,
If I remember correctly, I ran into the same problem a couple of times. ?Soldered a piece of brass tubing from the True Value hardware store and it worked fine.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
On Sunday, December 31, 2023 at 05:42:56 PM EST, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
Hi All,
I finally got around to taking my L4B off the bench and work on
replacing the vernier drive on the plate cap.? Looks like the one
referenced in the doc on the WB4HFN site
isn't the right one.? The shoulder where the pointer slips over is too
small. .340" versus .374" on the original vernier drive.? So, what to
do?? Try to repair the original vernier, which slips, replace the
vernier with a short coupler and shaft?? Ideas?
HNY
73
Stan
KM4HQE
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
There's a four-pin connector for power on that board. Only two of the pins
are used. But power and ground are also brought to the other - unused - pins.
I got a new connector, and wired up all four pins. More secure.
- Jerry, KF6VB
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2023-12-31 15:59, Jim Shorney wrote: Most likely it is oxidation on the connector contacts. It is also
possible that one or more of the female contacts has lost tension for
some reason. It's easy to remove the contacts from the connector shell
and re-tension. That's one of the 5 volt regulators so take care that
you plug it back in the right way or you will have another problem.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 21:48:16 +0000
"Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io" <w1es@...> wrote:
Bill, check the wires going into the crimp. If this connector has been moved a lot, you may have one conductor that's breaking from the crimp. If that's not the case, try the DeOxIt.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with [Proton Mail]() secure email.
On Sunday, December 31st, 2023 at 2:04 PM, Bill via groups.io <billnopic@...> wrote:
First, I accidently posted this on a different Group. Hope that is not a terrible break in protocol.
I have owned this Drake TR7 for probably 15 years or more. I loved the radio. Even when I had to play with the DR7 board every couple of years. My dexterity is getting bad so I decided to sell it along with several peripherals.
The display is acting up again. I figured one last time. So the cover is off. UGHH. Interesting enough it appears one problem is with a small bundle of wires coming from the DR7. Using a wooden spudger I can fix or cause the problem by slightly touching the bundle. Will delve into that more later. The same display issue is caused by rotating the AUX Program switch. I am thinking about spraying some DeOxit spray into if I can reach it from the top.
My question, is that a reasonable approach to fix the switch
Thanks
Bill
W4WCS
The wire bundle in question is the one in the top right corner of DR7.
--
73
-Jim
NU0C
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Hi Jim, On 12/31/23 17:52, Jim Shorney wrote: Here ya go.
/g/DRAKE-RADIO/topic/102134063#74026
And other vernier hits. Loosening the tension nut seems to have helped a lot.? Think I'll leave it where it is now. May get around to replacing the red and amber panel lamps tomorrow. 73 Stan KM4HQE
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Most likely it is oxidation on the connector contacts. It is also possible that one or more of the female contacts has lost tension for some reason. It's easy to remove the contacts from the connector shell and re-tension. That's one of the 5 volt regulators so take care that you plug it back in the right way or you will have another problem. 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 21:48:16 +0000 "Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 via groups.io" <w1es@...> wrote: Bill, check the wires going into the crimp. If this connector has been moved a lot, you may have one conductor that's breaking from the crimp. If that's not the case, try the DeOxIt.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with [Proton Mail]() secure email.
On Sunday, December 31st, 2023 at 2:04 PM, Bill via groups.io <billnopic@...> wrote:
First, I accidently posted this on a different Group. Hope that is not a terrible break in protocol.
I have owned this Drake TR7 for probably 15 years or more. I loved the radio. Even when I had to play with the DR7 board every couple of years. My dexterity is getting bad so I decided to sell it along with several peripherals.
The display is acting up again. I figured one last time. So the cover is off. UGHH. Interesting enough it appears one problem is with a small bundle of wires coming from the DR7. Using a wooden spudger I can fix or cause the problem by slightly touching the bundle. Will delve into that more later. The same display issue is caused by rotating the AUX Program switch. I am thinking about spraying some DeOxit spray into if I can reach it from the top.
My question, is that a reasonable approach to fix the switch
Thanks
Bill
W4WCS
The wire bundle in question is the one in the top right corner of DR7.
-- 73 -Jim NU0C
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Hi All,
I finally got around to taking my L4B off the bench and work on
replacing the vernier drive on the plate cap.? Looks like the one
referenced in the doc on the WB4HFN site
isn't the right one.? The shoulder where the pointer slips over is too
small. .340" versus .374" on the original vernier drive.? So, what to
do?? Try to repair the original vernier, which slips, replace the
vernier with a short coupler and shaft?? Ideas?
HNY
73
Stan
KM4HQE
|
Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
Bill, check the wires going into the crimp.? If this connector has been moved a lot, you may have one conductor that's breaking from the crimp.? If that's not the case, try the DeOxIt.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Time flies like an arrow.? Fruit flies like a banana.
Sent with secure email.
On Sunday, December 31st, 2023 at 2:04 PM, Bill via groups.io <billnopic@...> wrote:
First, I accidently posted this on a different Group. Hope that is not a terrible? break in protocol.
I have owned this Drake TR7 for probably 15 years or more. I loved the radio. Even when I had to play with the DR7 board every couple of years. My dexterity is getting bad so I decided to sell it along with several peripherals.
?
The display is acting up again. I figured one last time. So the cover is off. UGHH. Interesting enough it appears one? problem is with a small bundle of wires coming from the DR7. Using a wooden spudger I can fix or cause the problem by slightly touching the bundle. Will delve into that more later. The same display issue is caused by rotating the AUX Program switch. I am thinking about spraying some DeOxit spray into if I can reach it from the top.
?
My question, is that a reasonable approach to fix the switch? Thanks Bill W4WCS The wire bundle in question is the one in the top right corner of DR7. 
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Re: TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
It is most likely some of the deoxit will work on those connectors as well. I found some very small brushes at Harbor Freight near me. I think they are used for cleaning spray paint nozzles so you might try a local paint store.?
What other peripherals are you selling. If you have an RV-75 I am most interested.
Thanks and 73? Bob
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TR7 Getting ready to sell. But have to deal with the dastardly DR7 board again. I thought.
First, I accidently posted this on a different Group. Hope that is not a terrible? break in protocol.
I have owned this Drake TR7 for probably 15 years or more. I loved the radio. Even when I had to play with the DR7 board every couple of years. My dexterity is getting bad so I decided to sell it along with several peripherals.
?
The display is acting up again. I figured one last time. So the cover is off. UGHH. Interesting enough it appears one? problem is with a small bundle of wires coming from the DR7. Using a wooden spudger I can fix or cause the problem by slightly touching the bundle. Will delve into that more later. The same display issue is caused by rotating the AUX Program switch. I am thinking about spraying some DeOxit spray into if I can reach it from the top.
?
My question, is that a reasonable approach to fix the switch? Thanks Bill W4WCS The wire bundle in question is the one in the top right corner of DR7. 
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Re: MN-4C *range* switch end pieces
I added a few comments to the OpenSCAD source code and tidied
up the file a bit. New versions have been uploaded.
I also renamed them to mn4c-rangeswitch.{scad,stl,gcode}.
--lyndon
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Re: MN-4C inductor switch end pieces
There seems to be at least two styles of knobs for the capacitor switches on the MN-2700, not sure about the MN-4C. ?The two styles I'm familiar with are a cylindrical style and the other is round where the "head" is wider than the body.
On Sunday, December 31, 2023 at 07:43:03 AM EST, David <david.w5xu@...> wrote:
Also think these would fit the tuner 2700.
David Assaf III
W5XU??? VP8RXU
On Sun, Dec 31, 2023, 2:10 AM Lyndon VE7TFX < lyndon@...> wrote: And no, I don't know why I keep calling them the "inductor"
switches.? Apparently my brain is coiled in a knot :-P
--lyndon
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Re: MN-4C inductor switch end pieces
CRL and Oak-Grigsby made the Rotary/Lever switches from 1950s to 1990¡¯s, when ElectroSwitch of Raleigh, NC bought out both companies and relocated to North Carolina. The Switch Shaft for the Knob is 0.187¡± (3/16) x 0.05¡± The Asian Manufacturers use a SMALLER SIZE Shaft !! ?
That difference Drives the Guitar Restorers Crazy.CRL E2-series Switch
Oak-Grigsby 6MLR-series Switch
SMLR series Switch ?- Smallest design with a 3/16¡± or 1/4¡± switch lever
==
Daka-Ware of Chicago (now Davies Molding) originally made the Bakelite Knobs,
like the Top Hat,?Davies #5149
and Tear Drop,?Davies #0091-J?
in Black and later various colors (with switch to Plastic molding in 1960s)
¡ª
There are large number of Asian Knob manufacturers.
WD Music (North Fort Myers, FL) carries these and a Variety of patterns (and colors) for?
Rotary Lever switches and threaded Toggle switches.
Typical pricing for these Knobs are less than $1.50 each.
greg, w9gb
chicago
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Re: MN-4C inductor switch end pieces
Also think these would fit the tuner 2700.
David Assaf III
W5XU??? VP8RXU
On Sun, Dec 31, 2023, 2:10 AM Lyndon VE7TFX < lyndon@...> wrote: And no, I don't know why I keep calling them the "inductor"
switches.? Apparently my brain is coiled in a knot :-P
--lyndon
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Jim Shorney
Bill
Greg W9GB
David