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It is rare to find a knob bushing that has NOT deteriorated in these radios. 73 -Jim NU0C "jerry-KF6VB" <jerry@...> wrote:

Just for fun I did a deep dive and pulled up the R4 manual. There it is in glorious black and white: 120/240v. I wonder where this idea that these radios need 115 or even 110v to be happy comes from?

Bill In the UK, where the mains voltage is usually 245 in the evenings, and filament voltage is around 7.0. I use a simple transformer as an autotransformer taking out the 230 or 220 tapping for old

Bill: I will add my $.03 Cdn to this discussion as well. I run (most) of my Drake B and C-lines off Variacs set for 110 VAC. Doing so reduces heat for sure but also output power is lower and as these

Continuing the Variac thread is a slightly different direction ... has anyone measured the AC current draw of an AC-4 (wired for 120VAC) with the attached T4-any running key down? I've never plugged

When all else fails read the manual. The R-4B is specified to run on 120/240 VAC 50/60 Hz with 60 Watts of power consumption. Sent: Friday, November 24, 2023 10:40 AM To: [email protected]

Bill: You have opened up a very large door here. If the radio (this is a BIG if) was designed when the standard voltage was 115V (by law and practice) , then the radio was DESIGNED to be used at that

Bill, When running vintage gear my philosophy is to use a variac, and line conditioner, to keep things around 110 vac. ?Yes, slightly less heat and maybe a little longer lifespan for the filaments.

The TR7/TR5 use a different diameter bushing from the C Line but the same thing can happen there. My first TR7 actually had the opposite problem: the bushing had turned into a gooey, mushy coupling.

Please, is there any advantage to running the R4B receiver on a VARAC for 115Volts?? Maybe less heat I'm thinking... Thanks, Bill N3WM | | Virus-free.www.avg.com |

*** I think that's happening on my TR7. The bushing is hard as a rock. I didn't know it was supposed to be soft :). With a working digital display, it's not THAT big a deal, but still... Sounds like

FYI, acetone is an excellent paint remover. Use with caution near any finished areas. 73, Bill KJ5BNE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Blodgett Arlington, Texas

My take is that the grease is solidified. You need a non-polar solvent like mineral spirits to clean out the bearing race. Re-grease and that part is done. I take mine apart but you can probably save

I doubt you would have enough gain on pin 4. Rob, NC0B

Should I connect the Heil GM4 mic audio to Pin 1 or Pin 4 for best audio on the TR7? Thanks? Bob

Gordon: By all means yes! Many of my Drakes have had exactly this level of cleaning, though many have had the full removal and disassembly too, which is always better. That said, the most common

Jim, Thks for your comment on Tantalums... I have not yet compared the levels of the LO and 2 nd mixer into the Up Converter… Instead, I swapped all boards -but the power supply one- from TR7s #4089

Hi Peter, I had a question for you. I know this is a semi old thread, but ran into this exact PTO issue on my SPR-4. The PTO bearing area is slipping/gumming up and I believe it needs to be cleaned.

Thanks much Evan and a very happy day to you also. Your MN-2000 is alive and well and working just fine. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here also. Dave KC3AM

Happy Thanksgiving back atcha, Evan! Also to all on here! This is a great group! Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with [Proton Mail](https://proton.me/)