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I've been seriously considering changing mine over to the blue digits. I've heard that they're also slightly larger (but still fit comfortably in the aperture provided for the display). Steve Wedge,

Thanks Steve. She seems fine just doing a tidy up now before I refit the case. Kind Regards Mike G3ZCC

So glad you had a good outcome, Mike! You’ve been at it for quite a while and deserve this. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from ProtonMail Mobile

Hi Everyone Success, I now have a digital display that is meant for the TR7. Thank you to all those who offered assistance. This project has been a very steep learning curve for my Tube specialist

Hi Everyone I think I may have found the problem with the A segment. First of all as Jim said it is a DF4NW as that is imprinted on the mounting board for the LED's with a 2006 date on it. I did some

Good Morning Jim Sorry my brain was frazzled hi What I did do before I went to bed was to scope the three wires and all of them have signals, which look pretty much the same. So today as per your

As I mentioned in a previous post they are common anode. The pinout on these is pretty standard so you should be able to google up a data sheet with a digram and check the individual segments with an

Hi Roger Just checked p21 to the centre wire and there is continuity. As it is affecting the Mhz section looks like I may still have a joint of track problem. Excuse my ignorance but are these common

Hi Roger Just seen your reply. Looks like the problem now is with segment a the top one. All the others are working. Will check that centre wire tomorrow. Kind Regards Mike G3ZCC

Hi everyone Well after a day checking those three pins, fitting? 5mm blue LED's to the PTO and meter, fitting it all back together still a problem. looks like segment a if I read the schematic

Hi all. Thanks for the fine info and offers.? The original plan was to use an old Heathkit unit I had? but? I've managed to obtain a 2-BQ with one fitted. So the connector is no longer required.

##? ?You won't see any amps other than drake, using a .82 ohm? @? 2 watt? resistor.....for a... 'hv? fuse'.? ?New, correctly sized? HV? fuses are cheap, and meet? ?UL /? CSA?

John, Thank you for the follow-up report. 73, Michael Smith, N4KZO

Sounds like a good idea. Please post a pic sometime if you get a chance. 73 -Jim NU0C "Gary Follett" <xntrick1948@...> wrote:

That’s the term I was looking for, fish paper. Drake may not have widely implemented that ECO but I have had several TR7’s that did have it and I installed it on every one that came through here.

Well, the mystery is solved. ?Once I pumped a modulated signal in at the ant term and heard the tone in the speaker, I knew this stage was working. I suspected the meter was loading the osc when

Hi Mike, The loose left wire is for segment F. The center wire is for segment A. The right wire is for segment B. Suggest re-soldering all three wires. You can use an ohmmeter to check for continuity

I’m currently using a Nye Viking MB-V-A. Built like a tank and available for around $300. I’ve been using it to drive balanced antennas with the L7 and it takes everything I can give it. Steve

I had one of these years ago. I remember on 160 that it wouldn’t do legal limit — about 800W before it arced. Good tuner, though. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a

Hi Fred I was going to buy a TR7 back in the day, got warned off, spent more money and bought a Triumph Stag. After three engines I sold it and bought a Lotus Sunbeam. Best car I ever had, Kind