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Re: Mach 1 Computer was: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

 

Jim:

Well, let's see if I can be any help here....

One thing about TurboCNC is that it needs to run in real-mode. If
you have memory managers running (like EMM386) or the like then
there'll be a negative performance impact. Command prompt safe mode
from Win98 should be about where you want to be environment-wise.
Next rev I'm putting a bit more detail on the startup screen about
this so there should be no surprises.

The Start, Max, and Accel parameters set up the trapezoid velocity
envelope for a move. Good practice is to start with very
conservative (low) values and work up, increasing acceleration
last. Say 100 Hz to start, 1000Hz max, and 500 accel.

Since Turbo is 486 optimized and runs in textmode DOS, I'd say your
1.4 Gig AMD system is probably better suited to Art's program. These
new processors have some slick opcodes like conditional moves and
SIMD that can really crunch numbers - when the software takes
advantage of them.

Anyway, to measure speeds, run successively higher feedrates until
your sense of danger tells you to stop.

G01 X10 F5
G01 X0 F10
G01 X10 F15
...

Welcome to CNC machining, by the way. This is a fascinating hobby.

Dave Kowalczyk
Everett WA

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" <jagco1998@y...> wrote:
Well, to begin with, I am using a PC that I built.

The components are probably above what most people would use for a
hobby CNC controller.But since my Intel system crapped out on me,
this is the only setup Ive got to use for now.

Im using an AMD XP 1600+(1400Mhz),Asus A7V266-E motherboard w/512mb
DDR mem,a Geforce4Ti4200 video card, running under XP pro/Win98
dual
boot.

Mach1 seems about (Im guessing by the looks of travel speed by eye)
2-
3 times faster than Turbocnc. But Im not really sure as I am new to
this CNC stuff, and dont know how to determine the actual speeds of
travel.Hell< I cant even setup Turbocnc right, as thats probably
the
reason why Mach1 seems to perform smoother.

As far as Mach1 setup goes..I left everything at defaults after
installing, with exception to the motor tuning, and of coarse, the
pin config for my breakout board.
I adjusted the motor setting because the motors were "slipping" and
jumping erratically during revs, when turning(I dont know the word
for this.)

If you could help me in testing the speeds of travel, then I will
be
happy to post the results.

Regards,
Jim


Re: DRO / linear scales vs. wire driven rotary

Doug Harrison
 


Has anyone here built a DRO using Bubba's board design, the Lindsey board
or
the Camtronics board using wire to rotary encoder arrangement and what
encoders did you use?
Haven't built one but I've seen Bubba's. (We is sorta nayburs here on the
backwaters of the Chatahoochee, known locally as the Atlanta sewer system.)
It works very well and I would not hesitate to recommend the concept. I
don't recall that the Lindsey software even required a board, just a
parallel port.

Art's wire driven encoders work surprisingly well. Chris Bruno had some
encoders for sale that should work.

Doug


Re: Mach 1 Computer was: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

jagco1998
 

Well, to begin with, I am using a PC that I built.

The components are probably above what most people would use for a
hobby CNC controller.But since my Intel system crapped out on me,
this is the only setup Ive got to use for now.

Im using an AMD XP 1600+(1400Mhz),Asus A7V266-E motherboard w/512mb
DDR mem,a Geforce4Ti4200 video card, running under XP pro/Win98 dual
boot.

Mach1 seems about (Im guessing by the looks of travel speed by eye)2-
3 times faster than Turbocnc. But Im not really sure as I am new to
this CNC stuff, and dont know how to determine the actual speeds of
travel.Hell< I cant even setup Turbocnc right, as thats probably the
reason why Mach1 seems to perform smoother.

As far as Mach1 setup goes..I left everything at defaults after
installing, with exception to the motor tuning, and of coarse, the
pin config for my breakout board.
I adjusted the motor setting because the motors were "slipping" and
jumping erratically during revs, when turning(I dont know the word
for this.)

If you could help me in testing the speeds of travel, then I will be
happy to post the results.

Regards,
Jim


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., wanliker@a... wrote:
Can you tell us just what you used for the computer for Mach 1,
motherboard,
processor, speed, and video board? This might help others
including me, that
are looking at that program. what speeds are you obtaining on the
CNC?
Also more details on any problems with Mach 1 setup, and more
about your
machine, a nice long report would be good......grin. I love happy
endings........
bill


Re: using servo motors w/encoders for my DRO??

 

mueller914 wrote:

With my servo controller turned off, is it feasible to use the encoders off my servo motors for a DRO?
Sure.

If the Camtronics kit wouldn't work, could I just use the software from lindsayengraving.com?

I can't say if any particular program (other than EMC) will do for a DRO.

Jon


Re: DRO / linear scales vs. wire driven rotary

Ken Jenkins
 

I have the DRO board kit from Camtronics as well and was planning to go the
rotary encoder route described by Bubba. Then I talked to the engineers
at U.S. Digital a while ago and they were talking about making a head
and a linear scale at 500 lpi. The higest res they carry now is 360
which is 1440 in quad = res of .00064" which I didn't think was good enough.
The 500 would be 2000 in quad = res of .0005 which I did think would be
good enough (has anyone used the 360 strips?). So I thought I'd wait and
see if they'd offer it. I thought the linear strip solution would be
a cleaner mount and setup than having to cope with the wire arrangement.

I guess the problem for the higher res strips the first time around was
there were some issues with part yields. I contacted them recently and
was told essentially, "the higher res linear strip was a project on hold
for the moment".

So I'm back to looking at the rotary encoder driven by the wire arrangement
which Bubba describes. Bubba does an excellent job on his web site of
supplying information about the blocks, mounting arrangement, and software
(thanks! .... although the .pdf drawing of the blocks is unreadable at least
here and the pictures are a little too small to really see anything useful
... not to sound ungrateful mind you :-). Unfortunately the encoders he
describes using are one of those "you should have been here yesterday
deals when they were giving them away deals".

Has anyone here built a DRO using Bubba's board design, the Lindsey board or
the Camtronics board using wire to rotary encoder arrangement and what
encoders did you use?

Ken Jenkins
kjenkins@...

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 17:19:34 -0400
From: Country Bubba <axtein@...>
Subject: Re: using servo motors w/encoders for my DRO??

Yep,
Basically, what I did was to eliminate the servo motor and made new mounts
for the encoders and then modified Steve's program to work with my
computers. We now have a completely re-written version of the program along
with a new interface using 4 IC's and a handful of resistors.

All of the information including the updated software can be found in the
link in my tag line.
enjoy and write off line if I can help.

At 05:32 PM 10/25/02 +0000, you wrote:
With my servo controller turned off, is it feasible to use the
encoders off my servo motors for a DRO?

I have the kit from Camtronics and seperate linear scales (US
digital) but I'd rather not have to mount the scales if I don't have
to.


If the Camtronics kit wouldn't work, could I just use the software
from lindsayengraving.com?

anything wrong with this idea?
Bubba

OLDER THAN DIRT
Country Bubba
(Actually the inventor of Country and Bubba)

axtein@...
LaGrange, GA





Re: Atlanta source of L298s?

 

BG Micro (www.bgmicro.com) has them for $3.50 each.

My order was delivered within a week.

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., RichD <cmsteam@s...> wrote:
I am in Atlanta. Not much to offer in these parts.
L297/8's are kinda special to be found in stores.
I order from Digikey or Mouser.
RichD

JJ wrote:

Anyone know of a supplier in Atl


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

Jim Brown
 

Yeah! I got it all hooked up and my mill is now under cnc!
I just wish that I knew how to setup Turbocnc correctly.
I tested with Mach1 and these puppies scream. But under Turbocnc, they seem to miss alot of steps.
Mach1 was easy for someone like me, who has no prior experience with CNC, to setup and tune the motors, but I cant figure out how to setup Turbocnc right.
Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude <davemucha@...> wrote:I agree with you on this. for less than $1.00 per cap, you enjoy
increased protection for the $$$ Gecko. I too do this regardless of
how close to the power supply the Gecko's will be.

Dave

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown wrote:

That I dont know, as all of this is very new to me.
But I'm going to use the 470uF caps anyway as per Mariss' suggestion. After all, he would know better than anyone else, considering the Gecko's are his creation.
I cant see how it would hurt.
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude wrote:Hi Jim,

I think you are correct regarding the switching powers supply.

the calculation does reveal an interesting phenonimon. (sp?)

with the current remaing constant at 9 A,
a 24 V power supply (home built) requires 20,000uF cap
a 48 V power supply (home built) a 10,000uF cap.
the higher the voltage the lower the cap, but in the case of a
switcher, I think you are correct that it's primary function is
handling ripple.

The question I would pose then is if one had the switcher remote, and
the 4,700uF (your app) cap next to the Gecko, would one still benefit
by the 470uF at the Gecko itself ? I think not.

Dave






--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown wrote:

According the the gecko white papers(verbatum), "If a linear
regulated or a switching power supply is used then a large capacitor
should be placed across the output terminals. A 2000uF-10000uF
capacitor should do."
That is why I chose a 4700uF cap. for the power supply output
terminals... It's about right in the middle of Mariss' suggestion of
a capacitor for a switching power supply.
He wasnt specific as to what voltage rating for this cap, he was
only specific as to what uF value (2,000-10,000uF)
Your formula for computing the value of a capacitor, I think, is
for when building your own power supply, in conjunction with a bridge
rectifier and transformer.
I dont think this applies to when you are using a regulated or
switching power supply. The cap mentioned above, is placed on the
output terminals to insure that the ripple current stays within the
demand of the drivers current requirements. That is what I get from
the papers. I may be wrong about this though.

Thanks

Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude wrote:Hi Jim,

you ask two questions here.

#1 470uF AT THE TERMIANL connector of the Gecko. required if you
place
ANYTHING between the main cap and the gecko OR if the lines are
longer
than the listed 18 inches.

there are lots of posts that address this. the main thing is that
the
switching of the gecko will encounter voltage spikes from the
stepper.
the on-board cap on the gecko can handle some of this while the
main
cap handles the rest.

and yes, as long as the voltage rating of the cap is well over the
power supply the cap is fine. your 24 volts power supply will
operate
fine with a 35V cap.

#2 main capacitor. check the gecko white paper on the cap sizing.
again, as long as the voltage well above the power supply it is
fine,
but the cap size needs to be suffiecnt for the amp load of the
system.

You didn't list the total amps of all your steppers, but you need
to
total all motors for the main cap sizing.

cap uF rating is = (80,000 x total motors amps) / ps voltage

example is if you have 3 steppers at 3 amps. you have 9 amps total

80,000 x 9 = 720,000
720,000 / 24 = 30,000uF
so you would need a total of 30,000uF with a rating of 35 volts.

www.jameco.com has them for low cost, about $5.00 each for 10,000uF/
35volt

the 470uF/35volt are less than $1.00 each.

Dave



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" wrote:
I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3
gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell
me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage
them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


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I consider this to be a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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ShopData Cad/Cam ??

Chris L
 

Can't say I saw anyone mention this one here.....
I found it listed by someone selling plasma gantrys on e-bay.

Any comments? Anyone know pricing?

Chris L


Re: Has anyone built an SPC display for Digimatic scales?

 

The import ones.

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Chris Baugher <cbaugher_yahoo@b...>
wrote:

When you say digimatic do you mean the Mitutoyo scales or the
cheap imported ones?

C|

On Fri, 25 Oct 2002, emotorwerks wrote:

I am looking around for info related to SPC and how to build a
remote
display. I haven't found much yet. Does anyone have pictures,
plans, links, or ideas on how to do this?

Thanks,
Jamie


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

turbulatordude
 

I agree with you on this. for less than $1.00 per cap, you enjoy
increased protection for the $$$ Gecko. I too do this regardless of
how close to the power supply the Gecko's will be.

Dave

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...> wrote:

That I dont know, as all of this is very new to me.
But I'm going to use the 470uF caps anyway as per Mariss' suggestion. After all, he would know better than anyone else, considering the Gecko's are his creation.
I cant see how it would hurt.
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude <davemucha@j...> wrote:Hi Jim,

I think you are correct regarding the switching powers supply.

the calculation does reveal an interesting phenonimon. (sp?)

with the current remaing constant at 9 A,
a 24 V power supply (home built) requires 20,000uF cap
a 48 V power supply (home built) a 10,000uF cap.
the higher the voltage the lower the cap, but in the case of a
switcher, I think you are correct that it's primary function is
handling ripple.

The question I would pose then is if one had the switcher remote, and
the 4,700uF (your app) cap next to the Gecko, would one still benefit
by the 470uF at the Gecko itself ? I think not.

Dave






--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown wrote:

According the the gecko white papers(verbatum), "If a linear
regulated or a switching power supply is used then a large capacitor
should be placed across the output terminals. A 2000uF-10000uF
capacitor should do."
That is why I chose a 4700uF cap. for the power supply output
terminals... It's about right in the middle of Mariss' suggestion of
a capacitor for a switching power supply.
He wasnt specific as to what voltage rating for this cap, he was
only specific as to what uF value (2,000-10,000uF)
Your formula for computing the value of a capacitor, I think, is
for when building your own power supply, in conjunction with a bridge
rectifier and transformer.
I dont think this applies to when you are using a regulated or
switching power supply. The cap mentioned above, is placed on the
output terminals to insure that the ripple current stays within the
demand of the drivers current requirements. That is what I get from
the papers. I may be wrong about this though.

Thanks

Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude wrote:Hi Jim,

you ask two questions here.

#1 470uF AT THE TERMIANL connector of the Gecko. required if you
place
ANYTHING between the main cap and the gecko OR if the lines are
longer
than the listed 18 inches.

there are lots of posts that address this. the main thing is that
the
switching of the gecko will encounter voltage spikes from the
stepper.
the on-board cap on the gecko can handle some of this while the
main
cap handles the rest.

and yes, as long as the voltage rating of the cap is well over the
power supply the cap is fine. your 24 volts power supply will
operate
fine with a 35V cap.

#2 main capacitor. check the gecko white paper on the cap sizing.
again, as long as the voltage well above the power supply it is
fine,
but the cap size needs to be suffiecnt for the amp load of the
system.

You didn't list the total amps of all your steppers, but you need
to
total all motors for the main cap sizing.

cap uF rating is = (80,000 x total motors amps) / ps voltage

example is if you have 3 steppers at 3 amps. you have 9 amps total

80,000 x 9 = 720,000
720,000 / 24 = 30,000uF
so you would need a total of 30,000uF with a rating of 35 volts.

www.jameco.com has them for low cost, about $5.00 each for 10,000uF/
35volt

the 470uF/35volt are less than $1.00 each.

Dave



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" wrote:
I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3
gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell
me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage
them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


Addresses:
FAQ:
FILES:
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Moderator: jmelson@a... timg@k... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach
it if you have trouble.


I consider this to be
a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are
there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING
THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
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Addresses:
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Moderator: jmelson@a... timg@k... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto: aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble.


I consider this to be a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to




---------------------------------
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Vexta 5-phase stepper wiring

Zafar Salam
 

Hi all,

Can somebody guide me on which wires to connect for the 5-phase Vexta PH599H-A stepper and the Super Vexta UDX5128 driver. The motor has 10 wires and the driver has 5 terminals marked Blue, Red, While, Brown, Black. Can't find the manual for this controller too.

Regards,
Zafar


Mach 1 Computer was: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

 

Can you tell us just what you used for the computer for Mach 1, motherboard,
processor, speed, and video board? This might help others including me, that
are looking at that program. what speeds are you obtaining on the CNC?
Also more details on any problems with Mach 1 setup, and more about your
machine, a nice long report would be good......grin. I love happy
endings........
bill


Re: Capacitors for Geckos when using fuses

Jim Brown
 

That I dont know, as all of this is very new to me.
But I'm going to use the 470uF caps anyway as per Mariss' suggestion. After all, he would know better than anyone else, considering the Gecko's are his creation.
I cant see how it would hurt.
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude <davemucha@...> wrote:Hi Jim,

I think you are correct regarding the switching powers supply.

the calculation does reveal an interesting phenonimon. (sp?)

with the current remaing constant at 9 A,
a 24 V power supply (home built) requires 20,000uF cap
a 48 V power supply (home built) a 10,000uF cap.
the higher the voltage the lower the cap, but in the case of a
switcher, I think you are correct that it's primary function is
handling ripple.

The question I would pose then is if one had the switcher remote, and
the 4,700uF (your app) cap next to the Gecko, would one still benefit
by the 470uF at the Gecko itself ? I think not.

Dave






--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown wrote:

According the the gecko white papers(verbatum), "If a linear
regulated or a switching power supply is used then a large capacitor
should be placed across the output terminals. A 2000uF-10000uF
capacitor should do."
That is why I chose a 4700uF cap. for the power supply output
terminals... It's about right in the middle of Mariss' suggestion of
a capacitor for a switching power supply.
He wasnt specific as to what voltage rating for this cap, he was
only specific as to what uF value (2,000-10,000uF)
Your formula for computing the value of a capacitor, I think, is
for when building your own power supply, in conjunction with a bridge
rectifier and transformer.
I dont think this applies to when you are using a regulated or
switching power supply. The cap mentioned above, is placed on the
output terminals to insure that the ripple current stays within the
demand of the drivers current requirements. That is what I get from
the papers. I may be wrong about this though.

Thanks

Regards,
Jim
turbulatordude wrote:Hi Jim,

you ask two questions here.

#1 470uF AT THE TERMIANL connector of the Gecko. required if you
place
ANYTHING between the main cap and the gecko OR if the lines are
longer
than the listed 18 inches.

there are lots of posts that address this. the main thing is that
the
switching of the gecko will encounter voltage spikes from the
stepper.
the on-board cap on the gecko can handle some of this while the
main
cap handles the rest.

and yes, as long as the voltage rating of the cap is well over the
power supply the cap is fine. your 24 volts power supply will
operate
fine with a 35V cap.

#2 main capacitor. check the gecko white paper on the cap sizing.
again, as long as the voltage well above the power supply it is
fine,
but the cap size needs to be suffiecnt for the amp load of the
system.

You didn't list the total amps of all your steppers, but you need
to
total all motors for the main cap sizing.

cap uF rating is = (80,000 x total motors amps) / ps voltage

example is if you have 3 steppers at 3 amps. you have 9 amps total

80,000 x 9 = 720,000
720,000 / 24 = 30,000uF
so you would need a total of 30,000uF with a rating of 35 volts.

www.jameco.com has them for low cost, about $5.00 each for 10,000uF/
35volt

the 470uF/35volt are less than $1.00 each.

Dave



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "jagco1998" wrote:
I have a few more dumb questions....
I dont want to burn anything up, in using components that are
incapable of handling voltage/currents correctly.
The gecko white papers say that when using a 5A fast-blow fuse to
protect the drivers, that a 470uF 100V cap needs to be placed on
across power leads.

My 1st question is this..Can a 470uF 35V cap be used, instead of
100V as the white papers suggest? I can find them at every elec.
supplier in my small town of residence.

I am only using a 24Vdc/10A switching power supply to power 3
gecko
G201's, and have already placed a 4700uF 35V cap across the PS
outputs(I couldnt find anything larger than 35V. I live in the
sticks!)

Also, is the 4700uF 35V cap going to be sufficient for my PS?
Without the cap, a dig. voltagemeter across the output leads tell
me
that the power only fluctuates from 24V to 24.2V no load.

I realize that this probably will become a substantially larger
fluctutation once a load is applied.

Will a spike or short in the power going to the motors damage
them
if not protected with a fuse? Would it be wise to also fuse the
lines going to the motors also, or is this necessary?

Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Regards,
Jim


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Re: CNC'd drafting machine?

Mike Snodgrass
 

How bout that! I have two of the units you are talking about, one vemco and
one k&e, both are 6ft long. I had
pondered the same thing, they would be very easy to make atachments for.
The problem was how to drive them. I finally decided to try 1/16" aircraft
cable and steppers. I don't know how much stretch to anticipate out of 12'
of cable, we'll see how it works.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Guillermo" <carlos@...>
To: "CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@egroups. Com" <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] CNC'd drafting machine?


Hi All -

Anybody ever CNC a drafting machine? I was clearing out some
space in the shop and came across an old Vemco drafting machine.
Looking at the design, it brought to mind the one-sided-drive
cantilever-beam configuration that was discussed recently. The
mechanism looks like it would make a nice large capacity 2-axis
machine for low force applications like hotwire foam-cutting,
vinyl sign making, cloth marking, plasma cutting, etc. The
rollers are adjustable and protected, and the rails should have
pretty good straightness. It might even be possible to hide a
drive belt on the underside of the rail extrusions. You could
even take the unit and clamp it onto the workpiece, or mount it on
the wall. If I only had the time....

Regards,

Carlos Guillermo
VERVE Engineering & Design



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Predicting motor performance

 

I have lots of motor spec sheets without speed / torque curves. In most
cases there are several versions of the same static torque design, where
they trade off current for inductance. I realize that higher inductance is
going to cut into the speed / torque curve at the high end, but I don't know
how much. Does anybody have any equations or predictions for this?

Would a straight linear model work? What I'm thinking of is looking at what
the RMS current of a square wave at the bus voltage would provide with the
resistance and inductance of the motor in the given time for a single pulse.
Is that an accurate model? Are there any simulation programs I can run
which take motor and voltage parameters as inputs?

Any help would be appreciated on this.

G. Jackson


Re: Has anyone built an SPC display for Digimatic scales?

Chris Baugher
 

When you say digimatic do you mean the Mitutoyo scales or the
cheap imported ones?

C|

On Fri, 25 Oct 2002, emotorwerks wrote:

I am looking around for info related to SPC and how to build a remote
display. I haven't found much yet. Does anyone have pictures,
plans, links, or ideas on how to do this?

Thanks,
Jamie


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Re: Yet Another CAM Option

 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...> wrote:

Just wish I knew how to write a custom post processor though.
Anybody out there know how to write one for Surfcam??

Jim,

What type of change are you looking for in your post?
The file that generates the post in surfcam 2dfree is
called postform. you will find it in the surfcam2dfree folder.

This file uses variables to pass pertinante information for the
posting operation. Some information like the starting code (safe
block) and the ending code can be easily changed.

Make sure you save a copy of this file before you make any changes!


Matthew


Re: CNC'd drafting machine?

Marv Frankel
 

Mike,
If you put stiff enough tension springs somewhere in that cable, you
don't have to worry much about stretch. You might want to go into a marine
supply house, and ask for recommendations of cable.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Snodgrass" <snarf@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] CNC'd drafting machine?


How bout that! I have two of the units you are talking about, one vemco
and
one k&e, both are 6ft long. I had
pondered the same thing, they would be very easy to make atachments for.
The problem was how to drive them. I finally decided to try 1/16"
aircraft
cable and steppers. I don't know how much stretch to anticipate out of
12'
of cable, we'll see how it works.








----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Guillermo" <carlos@...>
To: "CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@egroups. Com" <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] CNC'd drafting machine?


Hi All -

Anybody ever CNC a drafting machine? I was clearing out some
space in the shop and came across an old Vemco drafting machine.
Looking at the design, it brought to mind the one-sided-drive
cantilever-beam configuration that was discussed recently. The
mechanism looks like it would make a nice large capacity 2-axis
machine for low force applications like hotwire foam-cutting,
vinyl sign making, cloth marking, plasma cutting, etc. The
rollers are adjustable and protected, and the rails should have
pretty good straightness. It might even be possible to hide a
drive belt on the underside of the rail extrusions. You could
even take the unit and clamp it onto the workpiece, or mount it on
the wall. If I only had the time....

Regards,

Carlos Guillermo
VERVE Engineering & Design



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Re: Motor sizing - revisited

Marv Frankel
 

Alan,
Thanks for the input. You're right about not worrying about backlash
in the downfeed, but my fine feed seems to work O.K. in a down direction,
but doesn't seem to want to retract correctly. I just thought of something
stupid. I'm going to put my cordless drill on the fine feed shaft, and see
if I can figure out what's wrong. I thought that motorizing the knee would
present fewer problems, since there's about 400 lbs. of downward pressure on
the screw, making for zero backlash. I'll keep you posted.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Matheson" <hokianga@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Motor sizing - revisited


If youre only drilling holes through things does it matter if there is a
little backlash.
Its only if you need to go to a precise depth that you need to get
worried.
Maybe you could aim at converting both vertical axes in the longer term!
Alan Matheson


----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Frankel" <dcdziner@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 10:56 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Motor sizing - revisited


Guys,
I've gone into the archives, and read the formulas for motor
sizing, and some of the replies, but I have a further question. My
Enco mill has pretty easy movement on the x-y axes, but I intend to
make the knee the z axis, and the cranking required to raise and
lower the knee requires considerably more torque. Do I use a
different size motor on z, do I do it by gearing, or both. I'm
thinking ahead to a particular project that requires drilling 10
holes through a piece of steel tubing. Can I cycle the z axis quickly
enough to do this in a timely manner? I don't want to use the quill
fine feed as z, because of an excess of backlash. Any suggestions or
experiences that might help my thinking?

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles



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Re: Motor sizing - revisited

Alan Matheson
 

If youre only drilling holes through things does it matter if there is a
little backlash.
Its only if you need to go to a precise depth that you need to get worried.
Maybe you could aim at converting both vertical axes in the longer term!
Alan Matheson

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Frankel" <dcdziner@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2002 10:56 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Motor sizing - revisited


Guys,
I've gone into the archives, and read the formulas for motor
sizing, and some of the replies, but I have a further question. My
Enco mill has pretty easy movement on the x-y axes, but I intend to
make the knee the z axis, and the cranking required to raise and
lower the knee requires considerably more torque. Do I use a
different size motor on z, do I do it by gearing, or both. I'm
thinking ahead to a particular project that requires drilling 10
holes through a piece of steel tubing. Can I cycle the z axis quickly
enough to do this in a timely manner? I don't want to use the quill
fine feed as z, because of an excess of backlash. Any suggestions or
experiences that might help my thinking?

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles



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