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Re: SS Relays - Revisited

 

1. What is the part number of the crydom?
The model # is DC60S3

2. What are you using to turn it on?
I'm using a campbelldesigns.com breakout board to trigger the relay -
12VDC

3. What is each wire of the crydom hooked to?
so, the +12Vdc from the breakout board is hooked to the positive side
of the input on the relay, the gnd side of the breakout board is
hooked to the other (I guess it would be referred to as gnd) side of
the input on the relay. +18Vdc side of the torch trigger is hooked to
the + side of the relay output. The other side of the torch trigger
is hooked to the other side of the relay output.

I had originally purchased an AC SSR and it worked, wired basically
as I had wired this new crydom (except I wasn't using a breakout
board at that time). The problem with that was when I shut the relay
off, it took up to a few seconds for the torch to shut off. So after
reading those past messages from Jon and others explaining why that
happens, that's when I bought the dc relay... so, I'm fairly sure
that it's wired correctly...

4. What is the DC power source for the load you are switching.
Not exactly sure what you mean here?... The Plasma cutter has 18Vdc
on the ttorch trigger...

Thanks,
Chris
Re: Did It

 

--- Got the machine home and off the trailer into the garage for some
cleaning and observing..Fired the Trak 2 up and played with it
some..I gonna like this !!! Not sure I will like the cnc Z axis to be
at the spindle--[have to disturb too much to angle head]--think I
could move the motor and the travel wheel to the knee? Since the
spindle ball-screw is .200/rev and the knee screw is .100/rev---will
some sort of calibration be necessary or possible? Only the X axis
motor seems to have an encoder while all 3 axis have travel wheels--
haven't found what feature this creates..I still gonna like this !!
Seb.
Re: Paul Jones

Brian
 

oops, try proff_at_cnconabudget.com ..

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Smith" <smithh@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:21 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Paul Jones


Paul,

Are you still on this list? If not does anyone know how to contact him?
I sent a message that was bounced.

thanks
Hugh




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Re: Paul Jones

Brian
 

try proff_at_cnconabudget will get you there, or www.cnconabudget.com and
use the comment section. cul brian f.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Smith" <smithh@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:21 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Paul Jones


Paul,

Are you still on this list? If not does anyone know how to contact him?
I sent a message that was bounced.

thanks
Hugh




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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
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NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
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Needed, consistant speed from control/motors or both???

Neil
 

I have this controller(site link below.


With these three stepper motors.

ViewItem&item=2580852193&category=42920&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

I'm powered with a typical XT PSU.
Motors are rated for 6v. and with two poles I'm hooked in at 12v for
each motor -w- power resistors on the + legs.

I'm using Kcam4.0

I've been told I should reverse my connections and replace the two
resistors on the 2 +legs and place resistors on the 4 -legs???

Or should I be thinking about completely removing the + legs from the
board and have them powered by each their own power supply?

I'm reluctantly thinking about other controllers and motors if need
be, But I was initially very impressed with the combination as
assembled above. But I have been lead to believe It can do better.

If I set the software to run the motors any faster than 7-IPM, they
start to stutter. But for most applications 7-IPM is pretty slow.

TIA
for any suggestions
Peace
and Merry Christmas.

Neil
Re: Paul Jones

Hugh Smith
 

Thank You

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <ka1bbg@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Paul Jones


oops, try proff_at_cnconabudget.com ..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Smith" <smithh@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:21 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Paul Jones


Paul,

Are you still on this list? If not does anyone know how to contact him?
I sent a message that was bounced.

thanks
Hugh




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if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
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OT
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NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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List Mom
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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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Paul Jones

Hugh Smith
 

Paul,

Are you still on this list? If not does anyone know how to contact him? I sent a message that was bounced.

thanks
Hugh
Surface plates as a base for tooling

turbulatordude
 

Hi All,

I checked my T-Tech PCB mill and found it was based on a 1/2 aluminum
plate, ground flat, and then added the linear rails.

But, if someone wanted to use something like a granite surface plate
for a router so something, check the photos section for a pic of a
decent sized plate.

The big guy in the center is about 6 ft 6.

The pic is in the main photos folder, called surface plate.

Dave
Homemade hexapod with EMC

Simon M. Arthur
 

I tried posting this to the emc-users list, but got no replies so far. I thought I'd try here.

I've started building a hexapod on the cheap. Some photos:



How can I set up EMC to work with the geometry of my machine?

How do I tell EMC what the relationship is between steps in the stepper
motor and the length of the strut?

Is there a way to correct for inaccuracies in positioning?
Re: Hexapod question

[email protected]
 

Hello everyone,
Can someone answer this stupid question for me????
What would be the need for a hexapod machine anyway?
I think it is cool & would probably build one myself if I had the
time, but can't seem to figure out a use for one??? haha!!
Any Ideas?
Thanks, Tim Bostic
Here an example!


eze


..............................................................
L?het? oikeat joulukortit omalla kuvallasi! Maikkarin netiss?.
Re: Need to synchronise my two X axis servo or stepper motor !

Robert Campbell
 

Anthony,

The commercial systems use slaving. If I were going to build a large gantry
CNC router, I would use Mach2 and slaving on the X axis.

Bob Campbell

Breakout Boards
VisualMill 5.0 basic

----- Original Message -----
From: "anthony_annicchiarico" <anthony_annicchiarico@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 9:34 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Need to synchronise my two X axis servo or
stepper motor !


I'm looking for a reliable solution to synchronise the two motors
(running with Gecko)which drives my X axis.

Is Mach 2 slaving axis method reliable ? I don't want my Y axis
blocking !

Does it exist another method ?

Thanks for your help



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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

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DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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Need to synchronise my two X axis servo or stepper motor !

anthony_annicchiarico
 

I'm looking for a reliable solution to synchronise the two motors
(running with Gecko)which drives my X axis.

Is Mach 2 slaving axis method reliable ? I don't want my Y axis
blocking !

Does it exist another method ?

Thanks for your help
Re: Shoptask cnc

 

George,

Could you post pictures of your Shoptask CNC to the Photos area? I
have never seen pictures of a combo machine that has ben CNC although
I occasionally read discussions about doing it.

Ron Steele-
www.stirlingsteele.com

===========================
--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., G&L <glebb@d...> wrote:
John ,
Your e-mail server is rejecting all my E-mail, I tried two
different
accounts. Do you have another e-mail address? I am receiving e-mail
from
you but that's it.
George
Oldrocketdog
I tried to E-mail you off list and your e-mail address returned my
message. What is your E-mail address.
I have a 93 Shoptask that I converted to CNC. I am in the
process of
turning it into a Bridgemill. The original X-axis bracket has .003
of
twist or flex in it, and I still have to replace that. I have
replaced
all the
bushings with bearings and installed thrust bearings in y-axis. E-
mail
me offlist for more info.
George



Re: emc.ini HELP!!!

Ray Henry
 

On Friday 12 December 2003 8:11 pm, CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... wrote:
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 21:59:58 -0000
From: "V Terry Taylor" <mambavtt@...>
Subject: emc.ini HELP!!!

could someone help me out with what I need to put in the emc.ini file
for my new sherline 2000 mill (Inch ver) when I got my cd it was bad
so I had to burn a new copy off of the linux supplyers website... But
It is far from configured for my mill... if someone else in this group
has the same mill I would greatly aprecate a coppy of that file...
thanks'
The stuff is in the tarball that is shipped on the second CD. It's named
sherline-mods.tar.gz. Drag that into the / directory and issue the
command "tar xzvf sherline-mods.tar.gz". When you restart the X-Windows
system with logout or <control><alt><backspace> you'll see the super
sherline icon on the desktop.

I've seen mismatch between the stuff on the main CD and those on the
second in a few cases. If that icon does not start up correctly, you will
need to browse into the first cd and find a file named
file:/mnt/cdrom2/RedHat/RPMS/emc-rtl??
click it and when the installer comes up make sure that you select the
replace files option. That should be all that you need to do. Post a
note off list if you need more.

Ray
Re: SS Relays - Revisited

Moore
 

Some of what replys you have received are correct, some not. Part
number of the relay is important. This series is a DC load only
(i.e. ouput) but depending on model can be ac or dc for the control
input. A SSR is different than a conventional relay in that in the
off state there is leakage current. By physically removing a wire in
the output side you truly get no off current. Crydoms are bad about
acting funny depending on load.
1. What is the part number of the crydom?
2. What are you using to turn it on?
3. What is each wire of the crydom hooked to?
4. What is the DC power source for the load you are switching.

Phil
Re: Hexapod question

Ray Henry
 

From: "ballendo" <ballendo@...>

Ray,

That is the only one that is going to be accurate without
compensation. As Mikkelson's machine shows, you can do without ball
ends. BUT every fullsize realworld machining oriented hexapod I've
ever seen or heard about uses ballends. (I don't know the details of
Till F's full size mill.)
Till uses fixed length struts that ride on vertical linear motors. His
geometry is constantly changing as the motor ends of the strut slide.
While the kinematics equasions are slightly different, changing angle,
same length, the principal of passing a world coordinate in x,y,z through
some set of equasions is the same. So long as the equasion used matches
the nature of the physical geometry, the translation will be accurate.
With some Stewart geometries this may be quite a trick.

When I was there, Till was refining the constants in his kinematic
equasions by drilling a set of holes at fixed distances over a surface
and then measuring actual position with a CMM.

Ray
Re: Hexapod question - rigidity

Ray Henry
 

From: "Raymond Heckert" <jnr@...>

Actually, you are subject to what we call 'Lake-Effect' snow. The snow
I can handle... It's the bitter cold that I don't like. When I finally
got outside this morning, about 7:00, the thermometer on the yardlight
pole indicated minus 10° F ! (That's not factorial, it's
exclamatory).
The thermometer on the tree is just not accurate. I usually tell temp by
starting the car. Like the chirp of a cricket, the grind of the starting
motor is proportional to the temp. <I'll probably owe Bill part of
another breakfast at NAMES for this off topic part of the post.>

My thoughts on the Stewart struts are that they must operate best as
ball-joints... rather each strut that connects to a common point should
be a half-hemisphere, mating with each other in such a way as to form a
complete sphere, retained in an appropriate socket. Note, that these
two halves will always rotate relative to each other in only one axial
plane! This fact allows the socket to also be fabricated in two halves
(actually, they don't even need to be complete halves) suspended in a
universal joint-like yoke. I may actually try to build one... some day,
after I apply for membership in the Procrastinators' Club.
Those folk who know geometry would insist that they can figure out the
maths required to transform most any geometric configuration into the
Cartesian form. Your description is very close to the vision that I have
in my head. Thanks for putting it into words. I'll send you a
membership form when I get a chance.

Ray
Re: SS Relays - Revisited

turbulatordude
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@..., "cutthroatplasmaco"
<cutthroatplasmaco@y...> wrote:
Jon, someone, anyone please shed some more light...

I ordered one of these

I hook it up, power up the input.
I'm no electrical engineer, so I don't know the proper
terms/techniques or anything here, but I set my voltmeter to ohms
and
touch the output poles and it shows a reading... i shut the input
off, take another reading and nothing. So, from my limited
knowledge,
everything looks good. I then hookup the output sides to my plasma
trigger (that's what I am using it for, to fire my plasma cutter) I
turn on my plasma cutter, and it shows a fault... so I'm
thinking 'ok, I did something really dumb here and cooked my plasma
cutter'. I then proceed to disconnect one side of the relay... the
relay input is powered off this whole time, I turn the plasma
cutter
back on, and of course the fault is gone. The relay input is still
off, so I reconnect the output and 'IT FIRES THE TORCH!!! (and
scares
the bajeezers outa me)'.

So, my question is why would a closed (off) relay act as though it
were on? The torch trigger shows about 18VDC. I have the positive
18VDC connected to the + side of the relay output and the relay
input
is turned off. The only thing I didn't check is what the amperage
is
on that 18VDC on the torch trigger. Could that possibly have
anything
to do with it, if the amperage on that 18VDC were higher than the
rated load current range of the relay?

Please someone help!
Chris


Hi Chris,

Which model # ? the AC units are strictly and only AC output, and
the DC are strictly and only DC, each has a specific model #.

If I am reading the spec sheets correctly, there are two very
different units listed.

The AC units have a very high voltage to turn on at 90 volts. So if
you are using an AC voltage unit, you need to switch with more than
90 volts.

DC is different in that is uses a very low voltage to switch, but
then it will only switch DC voltages on the output.

If I read you correctly, you mentioned that you are using 18VDC as
the power and are trying to power the torch trigger.

Also, If I am reading the DC connection properly, the wiring diagram
is hard to read.

the power supply shows that your positive torch connection would go
to the power supply positive and the torch negative would connect to
the relay positive. think series connection.

the DC neg of the power supply and the relay are connected directly.

This means the torch control is always hot, and you are switching the
negative, typical NPN trainsistor control.

Re-draw your circuit so you can really see how the current flows.

and, if you are still not sure, give us the model #

Dave
Linear rails plus bearings for sale or swap.

snokket
 

Hello everyone.
I have a job lot of linear rails and bearings for sale or swap.
They are as new. there are eight x twenty six inch rails with
carriages. five x thirty inch rails with carriages. five x eighteen
inch rails with carriages ( all carriages are three roller type with
cam adjustment). also two assembled xy stands, these are made up with
linear bars set in tandem and the carriages have four linear bearings.
The lenght of each slide is 16 inches. all the slides /bearings are
as new and high quality. I would swap the lot for a good quality
miniature sawbench (new) such as the preac with all attachments or
the proxon .or sell as a job lot. Make me an offer.
I live in the Midlands UK. Buyer /swapper to collect.
anyone interested please contact me off list at graham@ann-marie-
miniatures.co.uk or phone to 01543 423923.
All the best.
Graham.
Re: Granite router/mill

Dave Fisher
 

Least you should get things dead centre ...

----- Original Message -----
From: "David A. Frantz" <wizard@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Granite router/mill


HI John;

Believe it or not I was thinking along the same lines a few months
ago. Well atleast with a slightly differrent bent, my thought being
tomb stones from the local tomb stone suplier. Whild not sureface
plates these stones are often nicely sized. A few things have put
this project on hold not the least of which is time and money.

There are only two ways that I see as pratcal in assemlbing such a
machine, one is through bolts the other is cemented in anchors. A few
years ago I had the priviledge to work on some machinery made with cast
"granite". This synthetic material made one hell of a lathe but it is
heavy and granite would be two. The other option seriously floated
was concrete and making your own synthetic granite. Casting an epoxy
machine does have its possibilities. By the way I'm not 100% sure
that the commercial offerings are actually epoxy, the material did seem
to be a bit harder than what I would normally expect from epoxy.

Either way the materials discussed do provide a stable platform for
mechanical integration.

Dave


Dave

John Johnson wrote:

(Not the Smithy Granite)

I'm wondering about the feasibility of building a router/mill out of
granite. Specifically, cheap surface plates. They have a lot of mass,
are inexpensive, and are flat and square, seems ideal. Use one for the
bed, two for uprights, and one for the cross member of the gantry. I
wonder how you would attach them together, and how you would attach
roundways and the like to them?

Comments appreciated.

Regards,
JJ




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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

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