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Re: Ideas for matching drives on a YY axis design?

caudlet
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...> wrote:

Just curious............
Why cant you just space out the linear bearings on the z/y axis' so
it will have less of a chance of binding when traversing in the x
axis, and drive it from the center with the ballscrew/leadscrew?
I realize that this will be a big feat to perform, being the width
of the gantry. But It can be done, cant it?

Regards,
Jim

Jim: The machine is designed to have a convertable table so I can
use it for both router and plasma cutting. I am designing a quick
change head for the Z axis to take either tool. You need an open
table for plasma cutting. Nothing but a water tank under the cutting
area. I also wanted the additional power of twin screws since the
gantry weights over 100lbs. Moving that much mass at 120IPM takes
some power.
Re: Newbie Questions

caudlet
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "quazga" <quazga@y...> wrote:
Hi C.S.,
, I plan to
do something along the lines of a laser from the head to the base
rather than the popular head to the wall method. Problem with the
later is I plan on building a stand with casters. I'm thinking of
some kind of microscopic sensor of some kind. But haven't drawn
any
A couple of years ago, before being donated a full sized mill, I
posted a circuit on metalwebnews about how to build a head position
sensor with a dual element photoresistor and a laser pointer. It
proved to be accurate to about +- .002 of head deflection on a mill
drill. Contact me off list and I will try to dig up my old circuit
and some pix of the unit.
Re: Center tapped transformer

Alan Matheson
 

Another possibility.
You may find that there are two wires joined at the center tap. If so you
can separate them so that you have two sets of secondary windings each of 30
VAC. You can then connect the windings so that they are in phase and feed
them to a bridge rectifier.
Alan Matheson
Poor Man's Digital Read Out

[email protected]
 

Hi List!

Here is a link to Poor Man's Digital Read Out - 2 axis PMDRO



I downloaded it and tried if it works. For me it didn't:-(
Has ahyone else tried it? With what succes?

I unzipped it, runned the encode5.exe under dos window, keyed in the
resolution, than nothing happened, just black screen with static numbers.
Then I restarted the machine in pure dos mode - also nothing.
OS is Win98, logitech wheel mouse.
Suggestions?

Bye,

Matjaz

-------------------
Re: Center tapped transformer

 

Matt's circuit will work very well. The output of this "push pull" circuit is totally identical to using a full bridge rectifier.

Bob Thomas

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Matt Shaver <mshaver@e...> wrote:
I'm going to assume you want to make a DC supply:

(horrible ascii scematic follows - view in fixed width editor like emacs)

----|>|-----------+
) |
) |
) |
---o MINUS_DC +---o PLUS_DC
) |
) |
) |
----|>|-----------+

Basically, the center tap is the negative pole of the DC supply and the two
ends of the secondary winding are connected to the anodes of two rectifier
diodes. The cathodes of the rectifires are tied together and that is the
positive pole. You could flip both diodes around to reverse the polarity if
you want to...

you'll need a filter cap as well...

Matt

On Wednesday 23 October 2002 02:55 am, you wrote:
I have a transformer that is center tapped on the secondary. Voltage
from the center tap to either end is 30 v. from end to end it is 60
volts. I know that if I want 60 volts I just connect the ends to the
bridge and tape off the center tap. How do I connect it if I want 30
volts at the maximum amperage possible? I realize I can connect from one
end to the center and get the 30 volts, but it seems like I am missing
out on amperage by not somehow using the other half of the coil.

Tim
[Denver, CO]
Automatic tool change

 

Hi All,
I have Hitachi Seiki CNC Milling m/c type VA 45.
This machine have Automatic Tool Change facility.
I need help, if you have operation manual for this facility, please
give us information.
Thanks.

Best Regards,

Phillip
Re: Center tapped transformer

 

Matt,

Been a while since I have noticed you posting. Hope all is well?

So if I connect as drawn what is the ratio of the ac voltage to the
resulting dc voltage? I would have to assume that it is different than
what I get with a bridge.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----

I'm going to assume you want to make a DC supply:

(horrible ascii scematic follows - view in fixed width editor
like emacs)

----|>|-----------+
) |
) |
) |
---o MINUS_DC +---o PLUS_DC
) |
) |
) |
----|>|-----------+

Basically, the center tap is the negative pole of the DC
supply and the two
ends of the secondary winding are connected to the anodes of
two rectifier
diodes. The cathodes of the rectifires are tied together and
that is the
positive pole. You could flip both diodes around to reverse
the polarity if
you want to...

you'll need a filter cap as well...

Matt
Re: Center tapped transformer

Matt Shaver
 

I'm going to assume you want to make a DC supply:

(horrible ascii scematic follows - view in fixed width editor like emacs)

----|>|-----------+
) |
) |
) |
---o MINUS_DC +---o PLUS_DC
) |
) |
) |
----|>|-----------+

Basically, the center tap is the negative pole of the DC supply and the two
ends of the secondary winding are connected to the anodes of two rectifier
diodes. The cathodes of the rectifires are tied together and that is the
positive pole. You could flip both diodes around to reverse the polarity if
you want to...

you'll need a filter cap as well...

Matt

On Wednesday 23 October 2002 02:55 am, you wrote:
I have a transformer that is center tapped on the secondary. Voltage
from the center tap to either end is 30 v. from end to end it is 60
volts. I know that if I want 60 volts I just connect the ends to the
bridge and tape off the center tap. How do I connect it if I want 30
volts at the maximum amperage possible? I realize I can connect from one
end to the center and get the 30 volts, but it seems like I am missing
out on amperage by not somehow using the other half of the coil.

Tim
[Denver, CO]
Re: Ideas for matching drives on a YY axis design?

Gene
 

Will the lead error in the thread of an acme screw cause much problem
when driving with two screws on the x axis ?

dakota8833 wrote:


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Doug Harrison" <prototype@c...> wrote:
I have seen quite a few gantry drives with one screw down the center
under
the table. This presents two problems. First, the table must be
supported
at the corners which limits stiffness. Second, the moment loads
developed
when the head is at either end of the gantry cause wracking of the
gantry
(and deflection of the limp table caused by the first problem).

The usual solution to these problems seems to be overbuilding the
table and
gantry. Neither work very well. A more effective solution is to
design the
gantry so it can be driven from one side. This works surprisingly
well,
though it requires some unconventional thinking to accept. I would
choose
this approach if I were doing it again.

Another approach is to use two screws and link them together with
belts to
the motor, which will then have two pulleys. The motor is placed at
one end
of the table between the screws. Any loss of accuracy from the long
belts
will be insignificant compared to Abbe errors, thread drunkenness
and
thermal stratification in a sub$80K machine.

Doug
Funny you should mention driving the ganty from one side ,.. I tried
this and noticed that it was more efective to drive it down the sides
or single down the middle. What one has to keep in mind is the lever
action. Driving down the center halves these forces as opposed to a
single drive at one side. Looking from under the table the structure
would look like bowtie,.. two triangles |><|,.. great stiffness.
Additional stiffness in the X axis run would come from rail
"overbuild" and with the table top asmy. Another problem with single
sided drive is with the twisting of the ganty uprights. It is doubled
for the same size mill. Any of these problems can be overcome though
,..by overbuilding. I like unconventional thinking and may use the
same concept with my next mill. I would like to hear some more about
your idea of a single sided drive.

Frank ,.... CAD CAM FEA backround



----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...>

Just curious............
Why cant you just space out the linear bearings on the z/y axis'
so it
will have less of a chance of binding when traversing in the x axis,
and
drive it from the center with the ballscrew/leadscrew?
I realize that this will be a big feat to perform, being the width
of the
gantry. But It can be done, cant it?
Addresses:
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Center tapped transformer

 

I have a transformer that is center tapped on the secondary. Voltage
from the center tap to either end is 30 v. from end to end it is 60
volts. I know that if I want 60 volts I just connect the ends to the
bridge and tape off the center tap. How do I connect it if I want 30
volts at the maximum amperage possible? I realize I can connect from one
end to the center and get the 30 volts, but it seems like I am missing
out on amperage by not somehow using the other half of the coil.

Tim
[Denver, CO]
Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

Marv,

I had a similar problem over the weekend. The remedy was to significantly
decrease feed and increase RPM when plunging. This gave more time and force
to throw the chips away from the cut. This was with a 4 flute center
cutting end mill. Obviously a 2 flute would have worked better for plunging
offering more room for chip evacuation, but I didn't.t have one at hand.
Also, a bit of cutting fluid at the plunge location helps to keep the chips
from sticking and can delay the packing problem.

Regards,

Howard Bailey

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Frankel" <dcdziner@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes


Jon,
Thanks for your input. My spindle is tight, so are the bearings, and
the 1/4" end mill is held in a pretty new collet. When I tried plunging
the
end mill through an 1/8" wall aluminum extrusion, I could feel resistance
on
the quill. Then I realized that, as the cut started, the chips built up
between the end flutes, and caused some galling and hole distortion, since
the chips, unlike a fluted drill which gets rid of it's own chips, had no
place to go. I'll try to do some testing, and document my findings, to
arrive at the best solution.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes




Marv Frankel wrote:

Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the
holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look
triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an
end
mill, and that wasn't great either.

A properly sharpened drill bit will not do this except on very thin
sheet. A dull drill bit can
sure do things like this. End mills generally make VERY round and
smooth holes, even when
plunged. If you are trying to plunge an HSS end mill into tool steel,
however, that could cause
deflection. Are you sure your spindle is solid? A bad spindle bearing
or loose quill could
do this. I hope you aren't holding a 1/4" end mill in a Jacob's chuck.
That really won't work,
and isn't safe, either!

Jon


Addresses:
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List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@...
Moderator: jmelson@... timg@... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to



Addresses:
FAQ:
FILES:
Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...

Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@...
Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@...
List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@...
Moderator: jmelson@... timg@... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Marv Frankel
 

Jon,
Thanks for your input. My spindle is tight, so are the bearings, and
the 1/4" end mill is held in a pretty new collet. When I tried plunging the
end mill through an 1/8" wall aluminum extrusion, I could feel resistance on
the quill. Then I realized that, as the cut started, the chips built up
between the end flutes, and caused some galling and hole distortion, since
the chips, unlike a fluted drill which gets rid of it's own chips, had no
place to go. I'll try to do some testing, and document my findings, to
arrive at the best solution.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Elson" <elson@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes




Marv Frankel wrote:

Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the
holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look
triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.

A properly sharpened drill bit will not do this except on very thin
sheet. A dull drill bit can
sure do things like this. End mills generally make VERY round and
smooth holes, even when
plunged. If you are trying to plunge an HSS end mill into tool steel,
however, that could cause
deflection. Are you sure your spindle is solid? A bad spindle bearing
or loose quill could
do this. I hope you aren't holding a 1/4" end mill in a Jacob's chuck.
That really won't work,
and isn't safe, either!

Jon


Addresses:
FAQ:
FILES:
Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...

Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@...
Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@...
List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@...
Moderator: jmelson@... timg@... [Moderator]
URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.


I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
List Mom
List Owner



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

Re: CAM Software Options

Andrew Werby
 

Message: 24
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 17:12:53 -0500
From: CL <datac@...>
Subject: Re: Re: CAM Software Options?

I too, was not all that impressed....well, other than the introductory
pricing.

On the cad side, I thought it rediculous that it would not allow a "nearest"
snap and any other snap to be active at the same time. Way too much button
pushing for me.

[I've had a hard time wrapping my mind around TurboCad's way of doing things
too, but it can be made to work. This program has a lot of legacy behind it,
and many people have become used to it. This is basically a good thing, but
it may make them reluctant to embrace new ways of working.]

On the Cam side, I found it to take way too many steps to get where I was
going. It made me really appreciate the quick "point and shoot methods of
VectorCam (which still needs a dialog to
automatically insert feedrates like most Cam programs and better toolbars) .
I had hoped that TurboCam would have captured the methods of Surfcam.

[Could you enlarge on that a bit? What does SurfCam do right that
TurboCadCam does wrong? I found SurfCam's interface at least as opaque,
myself.]

Saving my money,
Chris L

"j.guenther" wrote:

IMHO the biggest problem with TurboCADCAM is the lack of documentation for
the CAM functions AND the just plain s*^&^^y tutorials provided.
[I didn't think the tuts were all that bad, and there's more manual than
usual in products in this price range. Did you find the separate CAM help
menu? While it isn't integrated into the main help menu, it is pretty
extensive. Of course it could be better. I'll relay any constructive
suggestions you'd care to make.]

It may
turn out to be a nice product but the sure as heck need to spend some
serious money on the documentation if they plan on getting any substantial
piece of the CAM market.

John Guenther
'Ye Olde Pen Maker'
Sterling, Virginia
[TurboCadCam has put up a bug-fix service release on their site at

This should deal with some of the issues in the G-code generation and
simulation functions which people here noticed in the demo. You run this
patch to fix an installed demo or purchased version. The list of bugs
squashed is on the page.]

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com
Re: DynaCADD ???

mueller914
 

I did some researching on the 'net...it seems at one time dynacadd
was a pretty good CAD program, but the company went belly up. It also
looks like it is only CAD and NOT a CAM package. I politly e-mailed
the seller asking that I would like to return it since it is not a
CAD program. He will take it back, return my money and pay for
shipping. I told him I'll split shipping since I didn't do my
homework very well before buying, I'm a little bit responible as well
here for this transaction.

Now to find that one magical CAM package that fit's the bill money
wise and ease of use.

I did download a demo of OneCNC which according to the demo files
looks very easy and powerful. Still pricey :(


Mueller


-- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "William Scalione" <wscalione@n...> wrote:
I have never used it but have seen it on ebay a few times. I don't
think
there are any cam functions in that software and it sounds like he
doesn't
even know what CAM software is. I'm not sure he even knows what
Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

Marv Frankel wrote:

Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.
A properly sharpened drill bit will not do this except on very thin sheet. A dull drill bit can
sure do things like this. End mills generally make VERY round and smooth holes, even when
plunged. If you are trying to plunge an HSS end mill into tool steel, however, that could cause
deflection. Are you sure your spindle is solid? A bad spindle bearing or loose quill could
do this. I hope you aren't holding a 1/4" end mill in a Jacob's chuck. That really won't work,
and isn't safe, either!

Jon
Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

alan@... wrote:

Forgive me this seemingly dumb question, but how does a person "drill"
accurately placed holes under CNC control without first center-punching
them.
Center-punching holes seems to get me within .01" if I'm REAL careful! By drilling a starting
hole with a center drill (like used on a lathe) and then drilling with standard jobber's length
drills, I get down very close to the accuracy of the machine.

I currently use a center drill to start the hole ( for deep holes ) or
just mill the hole via G02/03 command for shallow ones.

But it occurs to me that there's got to be a better way. Are "spotting
drills" that better way ?
I'm not sure spotting drills do any better. A short, solid-carbide drill will do about the best
possible. Jobber's length drills tend to drill triangular holes in thin materials. milling larger
holes isthe best way, although slower by far than a twist drill. I use small center drills even for
sheet aluminum. I just make sure the pilot drill is smaller than the final hole will be. It seems
to help with the triangular hole problem, too.

If you need holes to line up, you can clamp both parts together and drill them both at the same
time. No way the holes won't line up, then!

Jon
New file uploaded to CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO

[email protected]
 

Hello,

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Re: Help with Kaluga/Mauch DRO card

 

Definitely no drivers needed. You just have to make sure it is on a
clear address that nothing else is using and that the address is enabled
in BIOS. Sometimes (frequently) Compaq does weird stuff that is
non-standard.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

-----Original Message-----

I am trying to install a 2 axis dro from Dan Mauch. I keep getting
the "board not found" msg although I believe the jumper and address
settings to be correct.

This is a compaq presario with only dos command.com and basic system
files loaded. Is there an ISA bus driver or something that needs to
be installed?

I'm sure I am missing something obvious.

Any help appreciated.
Joe V.
Re: Vector CAD/CAM --- 180 degree turn

Dan Statman
 

Thank you. Actually my giant step was admitting that I could not learn this
software from the manual and playing around with it. Once I went to the
source (i.e. Fred) all of my troubles disappeared.

Daniel J. Statman, Statman Designs
www.statmandesigns.com
dan.statman@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <ka1bbg@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Vector CAD/CAM --- 180 degree turn


Dan! wow, sounds like you took a GIANT step into the softwear world and
won!
I admire your work! cul brian f.
Replacing bearings in stepper motor

 

Hi Group,
Sorry about another basic question.
Are there any hazards replacing bearing in a stepper motor?

Regards
Bob Thomas
48761 - 48780 of 99862