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Looking for BTC-1 manuals

 

I'm looking for manuals for a Bridgeport BTC-1. I think this is a Boss
9 control. I have a maintenance manual, but I'm looking for a
programming manual and other docs that may be available.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul

--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA
Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows


Re: Compact R-8 spindle on eBay

William J Blocher
 

Thanks for the heads up Jon. The guy that is selling this spindle has
several things that the group might be interested in like stepper motors,
ball screws, and a servo motor with an encoder.

nde&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25 will get you to the list.
Bill


On Sat, 19 Oct 2002 14:52:17 -0700 Jon Anderson <janders@...>
writes:

Someone was asking a while back about a compact R8 spindle.

is a current auction on eBay for such a spindle with three bearings.
There is no housing, nor do I see any provision for securing the
bearings. This has the look of someone that is making these for
sale, it
sure doesn't look to me like it came out of any existing machine.
Might
be worth looking and asking questions for anyone needing a short R8
spindle...

Jon

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Re: Ideas for matching drives on a YY axis design?

 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Doug Harrison" <prototype@c...> wrote:
I have seen quite a few gantry drives with one screw down the center
under
the table. This presents two problems. First, the table must be
supported
at the corners which limits stiffness. Second, the moment loads
developed
when the head is at either end of the gantry cause wracking of the
gantry
(and deflection of the limp table caused by the first problem).

The usual solution to these problems seems to be overbuilding the
table and
gantry. Neither work very well. A more effective solution is to
design the
gantry so it can be driven from one side. This works surprisingly
well,
though it requires some unconventional thinking to accept. I would
choose
this approach if I were doing it again.

Another approach is to use two screws and link them together with
belts to
the motor, which will then have two pulleys. The motor is placed at
one end
of the table between the screws. Any loss of accuracy from the long
belts
will be insignificant compared to Abbe errors, thread drunkenness
and
thermal stratification in a sub$80K machine.

Doug
Funny you should mention driving the ganty from one side ,.. I tried
this and noticed that it was more efective to drive it down the sides
or single down the middle. What one has to keep in mind is the lever
action. Driving down the center halves these forces as opposed to a
single drive at one side. Looking from under the table the structure
would look like bowtie,.. two triangles |><|,.. great stiffness.
Additional stiffness in the X axis run would come from rail
"overbuild" and with the table top asmy. Another problem with single
sided drive is with the twisting of the ganty uprights. It is doubled
for the same size mill. Any of these problems can be overcome though
,..by overbuilding. I like unconventional thinking and may use the
same concept with my next mill. I would like to hear some more about
your idea of a single sided drive.

Frank ,.... CAD CAM FEA backround



----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Brown <jagco1998@y...>

Just curious............
Why cant you just space out the linear bearings on the z/y axis'
so it
will have less of a chance of binding when traversing in the x axis,
and
drive it from the center with the ballscrew/leadscrew?
I realize that this will be a big feat to perform, being the width
of the
gantry. But It can be done, cant it?


Re: Help with Kaluga/Mauch DRO card

Alan Marconett KM6VV
 

Hi Joe,

No driver to install, but I believe the address jumper on the board
needs to be set.

Alan KM6VV


onecooltoolfool wrote:


I am trying to install a 2 axis dro from Dan Mauch. I keep getting
the "board not found" msg although I believe the jumper and address
settings to be correct.

This is a compaq presario with only dos command.com and basic system
files loaded. Is there an ISA bus driver or something that needs to
be installed?

I'm sure I am missing something obvious.

Any help appreciated.
Joe V.


Re: MSc Degree in Mech. Eng.

Brian
 

Congrats! good luck! cul brian f.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Semih Diken" <sdiken@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:44 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] MSc Degree in Mech. Eng.


Finally I am graduated, thank you for all...

ABSTRACT

CONVERSION OF A CONVENTIONAL LATHE TO A NUMERICALLY CONTROLLED FORM
BY USING A COMPUTER BASED MOTION CONTROL UNIT

DKEN, Semih
Ms. in Mechanical Engineering
University of Gaziantep
Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Cengiz DOGAN
September 2002, 87 Pages

The aim of this study is to convert a conventional lathe to numerical
control by using a computer based motion control unit. Main theme of
this is to obtain the movement of stepper motor system with lead
screw, which is moved by given commands through the computer in
certain limits. To obtain this action the movement of machine tools
is taken as the model. The shaft with lead screw is beared at two
ends by ball bearing. To drive the system, two stepper motors are
used. Four-axis stepper motor driver used to drive the motors by
sending pulses is fed with a transformer. Stepper motors have been
controlled from PC parallel port by a software program, written in
Turbo Pascal. It is not used any interface control card between
motors driver and computer. It reduced the cost of the system.


Keywords: Stepper motor, Computer Numerical Control, Electromechanic,
Motion Control Systems.



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Help with Kaluga/Mauch DRO card

 

I am trying to install a 2 axis dro from Dan Mauch. I keep getting
the "board not found" msg although I believe the jumper and address
settings to be correct.

This is a compaq presario with only dos command.com and basic system
files loaded. Is there an ISA bus driver or something that needs to
be installed?

I'm sure I am missing something obvious.

Any help appreciated.
Joe V.


Re: Replacing bearings in stepper motor

 

In a message dated 10/22/2002 10:27:58 PM Central Standard Time,
echnidna@... writes:


Are there any hazards replacing bearing in a stepper motor?

Bob: Yes. I have DONE this, and it takes AT LEAST "care".

First, the rotor is a multi-poled magnet, and looks like two or four "thick
pinion gears". It is alnico, and very brittle, so if those "gear teeth" rub
on the like-teeth of the stator (which has the windings), it will "chip off"
small particles that will JAMB the thing, when you re-assemble it! So, this
is why they will NOT warrant a stepper that has been dissassembled "outside
the factory" (they have jigs to hold all the parts concentric for assy.).

The bearings I had in the one I had to re-do were NOT sealed nor
"life-lubricated"! They were "shielded, only", and got FULL of dust, so
"froze up". Use DOUBLE-SEALED, Lubricated for life type bearings! Be VERY
careful when you pull 'em off the shaft, and be SURE you push ONLY on the
inner-race to install the new ones (i.e., don't transmit the "pushing force"
through the balls!)

Check the solder-connections to the lead-wires "while you're in there", as
the ones on my NICE, new S.E. motor looked as if they had been done by
dexterity-challenged children!

Lotsa luck! Jan Rowland


Re: DynaCADD ???

William Scalione
 

I have never used it but have seen it on ebay a few times. I don't think
there are any cam functions in that software and it sounds like he doesn't
even know what CAM software is. I'm not sure he even knows what AutoCad is
as he uses the trademark name as a generic term for CAD software
"Brand NEW AutoCAD DynaCADD CAD CAM" That's like calling a made in China
stained glass lamp a Tiffany Lamp. I would email him and ask him if it is
CAM software. If the answer is no and you have not sent the money yet, dont,
if you have allready sent the money I would tell him you want a refund based
on false advertising. You probably should not break the seal on the package.
On the other hand, $88.00 is a pretty good price for good Cad software, and
maybe it is a decent package. You can download a demo here
and see if you
like it.

Bill

On evilBay, these are being sold pretty darn cheap (considering they
are out of business I think)

Is this a true CAD/CAM software or only CAD??

If only CAD, I think I just wasted 88 bucks :(

Thanks,

Mike


Re: DynaCADD ???

rawen2
 

Hi Mike,
How about letting us know what you think of the program after you
receive it and have a chance to try it out? There are so many
CAD/CAM choices out there that deciding which one is more difficult
than converting a machine to CNC.
Ralph


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "mueller914" <mmueller@n...> wrote:
On evilBay, these are being sold pretty darn cheap (considering
they
are out of business I think)

Is this a true CAD/CAM software or only CAD??

If only CAD, I think I just wasted 88 bucks :(

Thanks,

Mike


Re: Ideas for matching drives on a YY axis design?

Doug Harrison
 

I have seen quite a few gantry drives with one screw down the center under
the table. This presents two problems. First, the table must be supported
at the corners which limits stiffness. Second, the moment loads developed
when the head is at either end of the gantry cause wracking of the gantry
(and deflection of the limp table caused by the first problem).

The usual solution to these problems seems to be overbuilding the table and
gantry. Neither work very well. A more effective solution is to design the
gantry so it can be driven from one side. This works surprisingly well,
though it requires some unconventional thinking to accept. I would choose
this approach if I were doing it again.

Another approach is to use two screws and link them together with belts to
the motor, which will then have two pulleys. The motor is placed at one end
of the table between the screws. Any loss of accuracy from the long belts
will be insignificant compared to Abbe errors, thread drunkenness and
thermal stratification in a sub$80K machine.

Doug

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Brown <jagco1998@...>

Just curious............
Why cant you just space out the linear bearings on the z/y axis' so it
will have less of a chance of binding when traversing in the x axis, and
drive it from the center with the ballscrew/leadscrew?
I realize that this will be a big feat to perform, being the width of the
gantry. But It can be done, cant it?


Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Fred Smith
 

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Marv Frankel <dcdziner@p...> wrote:
Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but
the holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look
triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with
an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.
Because the machine frames that we can afford to use at home are
sometimes not real stiff and solid, it is possible to get a situation
in which the tool and workpiece interact in such a manner that the
cutting forces exceed the ability of the spindle and or quill to
resist. Things start to flex. This is a major concern when
designing small machines that can use large tools. What I have seen
happen is that when drilling thin metal sheet, the drill point will
cut through the material, before the full diameter starts to cut.
This results in a chisel shaped tool cutting with a sort of helical
path and the cutting forces are not balanced. Careless hand
sharpening of drills makes it worse as the point may not be
symmetrical and centered.

If you don't have a rock solid spindle and frame, you can improve the
situation by drilling a small pre-drill or pilot hole through. It
should be at least as large as the chisel point on your larger
drill. This way the second drill, to size, will have even, balanced
cutting forces on both flutes and a little offcenter sharpen will not
have as much impact. Sometimes it is useful to poke an end mill
through, to straighten and position the hole before the final size
drill is used.

Best Regards, Fred Smith- IMService

Listserve Special discounts and offers are at:


Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

You are only prompted once for each time you hit the generate code button.
So if you have selected a bunch of points at once you will only get one
prompt.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

----- Original Message -----

Hi Tim,

That's true, I might have to take a peek at EMC's config! However, I'm
not sure I want to answer the Z, R, Q, P parms for EACH hole! I just
copy and paste them in the editor.

Alan KM6VV


Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Alan Marconett KM6VV
 

Hi Tim,

That's true, I might have to take a peek at EMC's config! However, I'm
not sure I want to answer the Z, R, Q, P parms for EACH hole! I just
copy and paste them in the editor.

Alan KM6VV

Tim Goldstein wrote:


Vector can also generate the G83 from the get go. Depends upon the NC object
you are using. It is set up in the EMC configuration. You choose it on the
NC Cycle menu.

Tim
[Denver, CO]

It will also generate a following G81 with
the coordinates, which I modify to G83 to actually drill the hole (I
like the "peck" and "dwell").


Re: Resolvers vs Encoders

JJ
 

The company I work for has used resolvers for years. The resolver output
isn't converted to digital, merely fed back to the servo preamplifier,
integrated with a PWM drive signal and tach signal from the motor, then
fed into the servo amplifier. So I suppose it's an open and closed loop.

Regards,
JJ

Be Kind, Be Careful, Be Yourself

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Seddon [mailto:peter@...]
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 4:41 PM
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Resolvers vs Encoders


We always used rotary brushless resolvers on machine tools which were
originally developed for the military and hence fairly
robust. They have one
other advantage that they are absolute devices for one
revolution. For most
applications full travel of the machine will be a few tens of
revolutions.
We used the 2500Hz excitation frequency types and managed to
get reasonably
good performance and accuracy.

The circuitry for using them is fairly simple using counters
and comparators
to energise and extract the position.

Regards Peter


----- Original Message -----
From: <w.higdon@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Resolvers vs Encoders


I'll try, altough Jon, could probaly do better.
A resolver can be a transformer with a 2 or more phase
primary. The secondary is inside the primary and is free
to move, some are linear, and some are rotary. The
Rotary ones usually use sliprings so the secondary can
rotate through a full circle (360). Being a analog
device the need something to convert them to digital.
The chips are rather expensive now, when I worked at
Entec, a new board cost between $500 to $1000 depending
on accuracy. a encoder can either be a "Absolute
encoder" (works just like a synchro with conversion
built in). These are usually VERY expensive and limited
in resloution. The second kind are "Incremental encoders"
these output a series of pulses as they are moved. If
they put out a pair of pulses streams with a phase
difference between the pulse streams can be used to
determine the direction of movement.
Now that this is as clear as mud, I'll let Jon or
someoone else clarify it.
Bill Higdon
PS you can convert a syncro machine to a eincremental
encoder machine, by replacing the syncro's with suitable
encoders. I did one upgrade (conversion)like that while
at Entec.
Hi All:
Can any of you explain to me, the differences between
resolvers and
encoders.
What is the implication for machine performance?
Is a retrofit from resolvers to encoders a worthwhile effort?
When did resolvers go out of favour and why?
I'm casting amorously about, for small CNC turning
centers, and I've
heard
the terms mentioned, especially in regard to Hardinge machines.
Mid eighties machines seem to be the transition point
from the resolver
system to the encoder system.
It looks to me like there is a fair amount of very nice
old CNC iron
from
that era out there available for very little
money...certainly far less
than
building from scratch or retrofitting a manual
machine...especially when
you
consider that the enclosures, the coolant pumps, the
ballscrews, the way
covers etc, etc are all already there.
Cheers

Marcus


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I consider this as a
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subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY
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Re: 3ft x 1/2" x 10 TPI Steel Lead/Acme Screws For Sale on eBay.

Brian
 

Hi, seems like a lot of sales lately on 1/2-10 acme rod. I just got 4 pcs.
of 3 foot 1/2-10 acme rod for $28.00 on sale with 8 bucks for shipping. I
usually buy from Dependable acme and these were of the same quality. the
nuts like this ebay sale are very cheap. cul brian f.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Leung" <lloyd@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>; <jobshophomeshop@...>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 10:17 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] 3ft x 1/2" x 10 TPI Steel Lead/Acme Screws For
Sale on eBay.


For sale on eBay:

NEW 3ft x 1/2" x 10 TPI Steel Lead/Acme Rod and Nut



<>




eBay Item: 1779890344



I've got 7 or 8 of them.



Please contact me off list via eBay's "ask seller a question", or my
email attached to this message.





Cheers.



Lloyd

Email: (Lloyd at Leung.net)






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Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

Marv Frankel
 

Tim,
I'm pretty familiar with reaming holes for proper fit, but the holes
I'm talking about, are sometimes so misshapen, they almost look triangular.
They're 1/4" holes, and I've even tried cutting them through with an end
mill, and that wasn't great either.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Dumb question on the drilling of holes


Drill bits are well know for making off size and irregular holes. That is
why you should use a reamer if the fit is important.

Of course this is easier with CNC when you can get back to the same spot
so
you don't have to keep switching tools.

Tim
[Denver CO]
----- Original Message -----


Guys,
I'm following this subject with great interest. One of the
reasons
I
subscribe to this group, is to learn enough to convert my mill to CNC. I
have been fabricating some parts on a mill, using the DRO, and have run
into
problems drilling holes. Using certain drill bits, many of the holes
have
come out oversize, and some completely out-of-round. Changing bits has
helped, especially if I use a shorter length bit, but I'm going to
investigate using the 135 degree, or other similar drills. I'm looking
forward to a CNC conversion, when I intend to center drill the holes
before
using the correct drill bit.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles


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Re: Vector CAD/CAM --- 180 degree turn

Brian
 

Dan! wow, sounds like you took a GIANT step into the softwear world and won!
I admire your work! cul brian f.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Statman" <dan.statman@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...>
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Vector CAD/CAM --- 180 degree turn


I would like to publicly tell all of you about my 180 degree turn I have
taken with Vector. As some of you might remember, i was less than
over-joyed with the software last week.

I have since joined the Vector discussion group and obtained the latest
update to the software (for free from Fred). The Vector discussion board
is
monitored 24 hours a day by Fred and he responds IMMEDIATELY to all
questions. Having Fred available to show me how to use this software has
been a tremendous help. This software really is amazing in what it can
do.

Today's project was a carved titanium ring with the saying "Ani L'Dodi
V'Dodi Li" with Hebrew characters. This translates to "I am my beloved's
and my beloved is mine."

I downloaded a free Hebrew True Type font and installed it on my computer.
I started Vector, and with help from Fred, in 10 minutes time I had
completed G-Code for pocketing each letter in three passes to a depth of
0.020" with a 0.015" cutter. Dumped the raw G-Code into Microsoft Excel
to
convert it to rotary degrees and calculate the correct feedrates for each
point, and I cut the ring.

Total time invested 2.5 hours from conception to rough cut and anodized
ring. Pictures of the ring from four different angles can be seen at:

'Dodi-small.jpg

Thanks Fred, your support is overwhelming.

Daniel J. Statman, Statman Designs
www.statmandesigns.com
dan.statman@...


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Re: CAM Software Options?

CL
 

I too, was not all that impressed....well, other than the introductory pricing.

On the cad side, I thought it rediculous that it would not allow a "nearest" snap and any other snap to be active at the same time. Way too much button pushing for me.

On the Cam side, I found it to take way too many steps to get where I was going. It made me really appreciate the quick "point and shoot methods of VectorCam (which still needs a dialog to
automatically insert feedrates like most Cam programs and better toolbars) . I had hoped that TurboCam would have captured the methods of Surfcam.

Saving my money,
Chris L

"j.guenther" wrote:

IMHO the biggest problem with TurboCADCAM is the lack of documentation for
the CAM functions AND the just plain s*^&^^y tutorials provided. It may
turn out to be a nice product but the sure as heck need to spend some
serious money on the documentation if they plan on getting any substantial
piece of the CAM market.

John Guenther
'Ye Olde Pen Maker'
Sterling, Virginia


Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

CL
 

Dumb Answer for drilling holes.....
I couldn't help to think of a centerpunch I made for a 3 axis machine at a shop I worked at once. I took one of those spring/overcenter/snap type center punches and made a holder to hang it on a Z
axis.

In One pass one could mark all the hole locations with a center punch like that I guess.....

I however, used the setup for punching some artistic designs in thin Copper Sheet. I had a sheet of rubber underneath the copper and it worked pretty neat. I had used Signlab to create code, which
allowed if desired, a plunge to be dictated at every node. It was the first time in my life that I was looking for a way to "increase" nodes in a drawing !

Chris L

alan@... wrote:

Forgive me this seemingly dumb question, but how does a person "drill"
accurately placed holes under CNC control without first center-punching
them.

I currently use a center drill to start the hole ( for deep holes ) or
just mill the hole via G02/03 command for shallow ones.

But it occurs to me that there's got to be a better way. Are "spotting
drills" that better way ?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Alan

--

Alan Rothenbush | The Spartans do not ask the number of the
Academic Computing Services | enemy, only where they are.
Simon Fraser University |
Burnaby, B.C., Canada | Agix of Sparta

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URL to this group:

OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto: aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble.


I consider this to be a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
bill
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Re: Dumb question on the drilling of holes

 

Drill bits are well know for making off size and irregular holes. That is
why you should use a reamer if the fit is important.

Of course this is easier with CNC when you can get back to the same spot so
you don't have to keep switching tools.

Tim
[Denver CO]

----- Original Message -----


Guys,
I'm following this subject with great interest. One of the reasons
I
subscribe to this group, is to learn enough to convert my mill to CNC. I
have been fabricating some parts on a mill, using the DRO, and have run
into
problems drilling holes. Using certain drill bits, many of the holes have
come out oversize, and some completely out-of-round. Changing bits has
helped, especially if I use a shorter length bit, but I'm going to
investigate using the 135 degree, or other similar drills. I'm looking
forward to a CNC conversion, when I intend to center drill the holes
before
using the correct drill bit.

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles