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Confusion...what software to generate G-codes?
mueller914
I'm testing out TurboCNC and Mach1 on my retrofit Shoptask, both of
which I thought generated the g-codes from my DXF file. I guess I am wrong and now I am confused as to what software I need. I can generate the DXF's or just about any other file that Pro/E can export, but what do I do with this data? I wish I had to NC Post modual for my Pro/e, but no such luck since work will not pay for my hobbie stuff. |
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Re: cant see parallel port from dos - forgot to mention...
deanc500
--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "deanc500" <deanc@v...> wrote:
Hi, I am having trouble running my cnc control software in dos. I haveThe software I am trying in dos is deskncdos and cncpro. Neither can see the parallel port. Tried setting the port to standard bi directional in the bios with no effect. Thanks Dean |
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cant see parallel port from dos
deanc500
Hi, I am having trouble running my cnc control software in dos. I have
a 1Ghz Toshiba Sat Pro laptop running Win98. I can run kellycam and master5 in windows but step rates are too slow. When I exit windows to "dos" or win 98's version of it, the software does not see the parallel port. Anyone seen this before? |
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Acroloop
William Scalione
Anyone ever use any Parker Acroloop products?
I got a couple of these off ebay, which I believe have the 8 axis cards installed. Can drive servos or steppers I think. Anyway, the display is a touch screen LCD panel with a backplane, video card, CPU card (low speed pentium I think), power supply, floppy, etc. They make some CNC software for these called AcroMill, and another called AcroCut for lasers, waterjets, plasma etc. Price was right, $20.00 each and $20.00 each for shipping. I have not got them yet, looking forward to a new toy. Bill |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Carol & Jerry Jankura
How does this stuff differ from the Moglice that was being discussed several
months back? -- Jerry |The Philly resin is something like $65 for the small container and then |another $20 or so for the release spray if I remember correctly. If you go |with it the release spray is a must as it controls the clearance as well as |acting as a release agent. |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Les Watts
Yup Tim, something like that.
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Fortunately a little goes a long way. And hopefully cheap compared to several ballnuts. I did talk to the Super alloy manager some. He said it ought to work pretty well on 2-c acme thread forms but their experience was all with ballscrews. At least on the acme you don't have any rolling burr to remove so that is a plus. It will be too tight without sufficient mold release so yes that is an important step. Any mold release compatible with epoxies should work but I would go for a running clearance of 0.0005" to 0.001". Has to have room for an oil film and accommodate the slight pitch variations in the screw. Seems to me it would be good if you could somehow get a thicker mold release coating on the top and bottom of the thread as those surfaces do not contribute to thrust loading. I also wonder if you could grind a rough longitudinal groove in a waste end part of the screw to use as a temporary minimal tap to fine adjust the cast nut by shaving it slightly if needed. And I will mention the M word.... Moglice! It is very similar to our product. Good stuff. We always try to be a little cheaper and provide better customer engineering support. Heh... I should say I because ITW (Philly resins) is my client now rather than my employer. I don't make anything for selling their goop. Just designing their encoders. With oil or grease lube the material is good to a surface speed equivalent to 1000 rpm on a 1" diameter screw. Beyond that close fitting polymer bearings can get hot due to their low thermal conductivity. Les Leslie Watts L M Watts Furniture Tiger, Georgia USA engineering page: ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 3:03 PM Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Making your own Ball nuts The Philly resin is something like $65 for the small container and thenas acting as a release agent. |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
The Philly resin is something like $65 for the small container and then
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another $20 or so for the release spray if I remember correctly. If you go with it the release spray is a must as it controls the clearance as well as acting as a release agent. Tim [Denver, CO] ----- Original Message -----
Does anybody have a ballpark price for that polymer resin?aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble. sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........ |
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Re: HARDINGE HNC RETROFIT
doug king
Hi Ray.We're looking at kluging a live tool on our top plate Hardinge retrofit,that could handle turning a woodruff key cutter -type tool(torque,RPM).Do you have any ideas about what size motors would work?DC?.Thanks,Doug
Ray Henry <rehenry@...> wrote: Doug I'm not near one of these right now but I believe the motor power supply is on the floor of the fridge. There may be a small panel and caps on the left side. It will say something like 90 volt. You could trace it back from the two identical axis drive boards. They are about 6" by 14" with a very large capacitor on the left side. These should be mounted on the lower right hand side if the fridge. Ray � � From: doug king Addresses: FAQ: FILES: OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto: aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble. I consider this as a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........ Post messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@... Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@... List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@..., wanliker@... Moderator: jmelson@... timg@... [Moderator] URL to this group: bill, List Mom List Owner Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more faith.yahoo.com |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Les Watts
Well, I can try to explain the reason for preloading.
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We are all used to using lathes, mills, etc that have lots of slop in the leadscrews. We just machine in one direction to take it up. Like the little jerk you give on the handle of a lathe when doing a threading pass to insure the carriage slop is eliminated. But with cnc it is desired to have a machine that can do arcs, circles, and other curves and motions. The axes are reversing motion all the time. If there were any play in the drive each reversal would cause undetermined motions until it had moved enough to take it up. Doing software manipulations can't really correct for this lost motion. Now with preloading no lost motion occurs until you overcome the preload force. That force is often hundreds of pounds or more. Low friction becomes important when bearings are loaded like this all the time... hence the use of ballscrews. Now cast polymer nuts can have pretty low friction as well when used with oil. They are not really preloaded. The play is just reduced to a small value; perhaps a thousandth or so. The oil film damps lost motions so you won't have wild uncontrolled rattling around with an axis reversal. For critical applications preload is certainly needed but I understand that the cost of the ballscrews are a major problem for hobbyists. So I am thinking of easily fabricated methods to cut that cost. Ok, lets check the catalogs! I'll grab the MSC big book. Ok,a 5/8-5 48" Nook acme (4140 medium hardened 0.003 lead accuracy) is $23.81! A THK ballscrew without nut 48"x0.601" 5 tpi is $57. A Thomson 0.625"x 72 ballscrew (no nut) is $85 . These aren't quite apples to apples as I picked sizes with good prices. Some sizes are unusually expensive prob because they aren't made in as large a quantity. But the Nook is $5.95/ft, the Thomson is $14.17/ft and the THK $14.25/ft. Seems pretty good! Even Nook preloaded polymer nuts are pretty cheap, but the preload is only 9 lb. Not quite enough. The ballscrews are harder and have a higher polish than the acme. But the Nook is 200Br - that might be machinable on a small lathe without grinding. Other than that they are similar materials and accuracy. And these are not the lowest prices around i'll bet. So it looks like for hobbyist or light use applications the cast nut concept might save some significant $$$. For industrial users (like me) that need high accuracy running 8 hours a day preloaded ballscrews are the best bet- as expensive as they are. As to whether ballscrew stock or acme would be better with cast nuts... I don't know. I think both will work. I can talk to the Philly people about this. The goop is expensive, but you don't need much of it. Les Leslie Watts L M Watts Furniture Tiger, Georgia USA engineering page: ----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Frankel" <dcdziner@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 10:53 AM Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Making your own Ball nuts Les,polymer nut. I know that you can buy the screw material by the inch, fromgreat advantage over the acme screw? You might also ask the product people if |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
wayne_j_hill
Jon,
"Nook" brand ball screw tolerance is about +/- .005 per foot. I allow for any variance with the CNC control settings and CNC program. Good enough for my CNC hobby mill. Wayne Read more closely, and look at the pictures. He isn't making ballnuts, he is assembling 2 Thompson single-row ball nuts on one screw, with ascrews are power transmission screws, not precision screws for positioningsystems. Accuracy is +/- ???. They really don't spec them, which means theycan vary all over the place, even on the same screw. So, preloadingschemes may not work real well on such a screw. |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Mark Taft wrote:
Hi everyone,Read more closely, and look at the pictures. He isn't making ball nuts, he is assembling 2 Thompson single-row ball nuts on one screw, with a preloading device, to eliminate backlash. By the way, those black screws are power transmission screws, not precision screws for positioning systems. Accuracy is +/- ???. They really don't spec them, which means they can vary all over the place, even on the same screw. So, preloading schemes may not work real well on such a screw. Jon |
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Transatlantic tooling supplier needed for small mill/lathe tutorials
[Cross post from Sherline group]
As a way of documenting what I am learning as well as to say "Thanks" to those who are helping me to learn, I am working on providing some web-based tutorials on how to do CNC machining with a small Sherline mill/lathe. I want to specify the precise tooling used in the examples. The CAD/CAM vendor I have selected has offered to make tooling definitions within his software so that I can select from common tooling. I am asking for assistance from this group in two areas: First, I am looking for a supplier of small tooling that is suitable for the Sherline Mill/Lathe, who ships to customers on both sides of the Atlantic. Most important, would anyone care to offer recommendations on the 4 or 5 most common cutting tools that I should purchase for each of the Sherline Mill/Lathe? (I want to make sure that any tutorials use readily available tooling so that others can follow along.) Any recommendations? -Eric p.s.. If you are interested in CNC on a Sherline and would like to see what I am doing, I have set up a site to share what I am learning: I |
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Re: cnc setup for plasma table
Yes, you can put together your own system that is as good to much better for
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a lot less money. It is a very frequent topic on this list and was discussed a lot just last week. Take a dive into the archives. Tim [Denver, CO] Home Shop CNC and machining www.KTMarketing.com/CNC.html ----- Original Message -----
Hello all,aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble. sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........ |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Marv Frankel
Les,
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I hadn't even thought of using the ballscrew material with the polymer nut. I know that you can buy the screw material by the inch, from McMaster-Carr, but other than it being a new screw, would there be any great advantage over the acme screw? You might also ask the product people if they've done any significant wear tests, to estimate the effective life of such a nut. Could you explain preloading, and what it does? Marv Frankel Los Angeles ----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Watts" <leswatts@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 7:00 AM Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Making your own Ball nuts Well, thanks for the complement Marv!both aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it iftypes of screws. you have trouble. sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Les Watts
Well, thanks for the complement Marv!
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Yes I think the cast polymer nut could work for acme as well as ballscrew material with the right o.d. clearance. Acme of course is not really the best for preloading but it can be done. It would have to be free of wear as well. Another thing that might be economical is just buy the ballscrew material without a nut- the nut is often most of the cost anyway. Then cast a polymer nut around it. If anyone is seriously interested in doing this I could talk to the Philly Resins product manager about the technique. I am afiliated with parent company of Philly and know some of those guys from corporate meetings. I will be back and forth to there as I am designing an encoder for another division. They seem to really know their stuff. Les Leslie Watts L M Watts Furniture Tiger, Georgia USA engineering page: ----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv Frankel" <dcdziner@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 6:08 AM Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Making your own Ball nuts Mark,seems always willing to share his vast knowledge. It was in response to aquestion from me, about making do with the original acme screws, until I was ableto convert to ball screws. These instructions seem to be applicable to both |
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Re: Making your own Ball nuts
Marv Frankel
Mark,
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It's funny you should ask, because I received this info, , from Les Watts, who seems always willing to share his vast knowledge. It was in response to a question from me, about making do with the original acme screws, until I was able to convert to ball screws. These instructions seem to be applicable to both types of screws. Marv Frankel Los Angeles ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taft" <mark.taft@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 1:12 AM Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Making your own Ball nuts Hi everyone,aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble. sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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Re: flat spring, silver solder, was Re: router for sheet metal
Ian W. Wright
Hi Alan,
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Any madel engineering or jewellery supplier will sell you silver solder. It is available in several different grades / melting points and various qualities for jewellery work - i.e. grades which will come up to hallmarking standards. For what you need, you should ask for 'Easy Flow' solder which comes as No. 1 or No. 2 grade depending on melting point. When you are doing a multi-stage project it is normal to do the first soldering with a high melting point solder and then use a progressively lower melting point solder at each successive stage so that the earlier stuff doesn't get unstuck. To use silver solder you need to use a blowlamp and special (Easy Flow) flux which is basically borax. You also need to make sure that the surfaces you are joining are close fitting and are very clean. Best wishes, Ian -- Ian W. Wright Sheffield, UK The following added for automatic email harvesters! abuse@... abuse@... abuse@... abuse@... UCE@... abuse@... abuse@... ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Marconett KM6VV" <KM6VV@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:02 PM Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: flat spring, silver solder, was Re: router for sheet metal Hi Tim,pocketing. tape.Just take your stock and stick it to a spoil board with some carpet getThen machine away. Pocketing that thin is a bxtch because you have to werethe piece perfectly level. I have milled parts out of .010" brass that itabout .100" x .400". this!is in the 1100 - 1200 F range than you can always use jewelers silver
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it ifpring2.jpg you have trouble. sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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