Les Watts
Yup Tim, something like that.
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Fortunately a little goes a long way. And hopefully cheap compared to several ballnuts. I did talk to the Super alloy manager some. He said it ought to work pretty well on 2-c acme thread forms but their experience was all with ballscrews. At least on the acme you don't have any rolling burr to remove so that is a plus. It will be too tight without sufficient mold release so yes that is an important step. Any mold release compatible with epoxies should work but I would go for a running clearance of 0.0005" to 0.001". Has to have room for an oil film and accommodate the slight pitch variations in the screw. Seems to me it would be good if you could somehow get a thicker mold release coating on the top and bottom of the thread as those surfaces do not contribute to thrust loading. I also wonder if you could grind a rough longitudinal groove in a waste end part of the screw to use as a temporary minimal tap to fine adjust the cast nut by shaving it slightly if needed. And I will mention the M word.... Moglice! It is very similar to our product. Good stuff. We always try to be a little cheaper and provide better customer engineering support. Heh... I should say I because ITW (Philly resins) is my client now rather than my employer. I don't make anything for selling their goop. Just designing their encoders. With oil or grease lube the material is good to a surface speed equivalent to 1000 rpm on a 1" diameter screw. Beyond that close fitting polymer bearings can get hot due to their low thermal conductivity. Les Leslie Watts L M Watts Furniture Tiger, Georgia USA engineering page: ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@...> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 3:03 PM Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Making your own Ball nuts The Philly resin is something like $65 for the small container and thenas acting as a release agent. |