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I'm putting it out to the user community: The aftermarket radius blocks + dovetail (Losmandy & ADM) can't be used with the latest C14 EdgeHDs. The reason is that the front casting has an angle or slight curvature to it. I'm wondering if anyone here has the ability and competence to make the measurements on the new front casting and make them available in such a way (with a drawing, or in language a machinist understands) that would allow us to get the information to the after market parts manufacturers and get over this hump. I don't think it's a simple diagonal line. thanks Greg N

To All, I just wanted to make sure members saw the latest file uploaded - it concerns drive repair on classic fork-mounted C14's. Thanks!

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been updated in the Files area of the [email protected] group. /ClassicForkC14Relubing-DEC&RADriveDisassemblyREV.docx Uploaded By: Tom Sorbel <tsorbel@...> Description: Regreasing C14 DEC/RA Drives Cheers, The Groups.io Team

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /ClassicForkC14Relubing-DEC&RADriveDisassembly.docx Uploaded By: Tom Sorbel <tsorbel@...> Description: Regreasing C14 DEC/RA Drives Cheers, The Groups.io Team

Dear All, Here are some images taken on September 20 with the Celestron 14 and a Basler 1920-155 camera. Exposure time was generally 35 ms with a total of 900 or 1200 stacked frames. Bond : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Bond_C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-4h02minUT-red-f900.jpg Plato: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Platon_C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-3h55minUT-red-f900.jpg Cassini: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Cassini-C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-4h9minUT-red-f1200.jpg Archimedes: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Archimedes-C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-4h15minUT-red-f1200frames.jpg Hadley : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Hadley-C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-4h34minUT-green-f1200.jpg Hyginius et Triesnecker: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Hyg_C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-4h43minUT-red-f900.jpg Ptolémée : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Pto_mosa-C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-5h05minUT-red-f900.jpg Stofler http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Stofler_C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-5h19minUT-red-f900.jpg And finally Walther: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Walther-C14F30-B1920-20Sept2019-5h14minUT-red-f900.jpg Best regards Christian Viladrich

Dear All, Please find some "old" images of the Moon taken with the C14 on July, 25 and August 23, 2019: Clavius : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Clavius-23August2019-C14-F30-B1920-Green.jpg http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Clavius-25July2019-C14-F29-B1920-red-F600.jpg Longomontanus : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Longomontanus-25July2019-C14-F29-B1920-red-F600.jpg Straight Wall : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Mur-droit-23August2019-C14-F30-B1920-Green-F900.jpg Copernicus: http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Copernic-C14-25July2019-B1920-F29-red-F600.jpg Pytagorus : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/moon/closeup/Pythagore-C14-F29-25July2019-B1920-red.jpg Best regards Christian Viladrich

Folks, Yahoo Groups is shutting down, and we are in the process of moving this group to a new host at Groups.io. We hope to transfer all the members, messages, photos, files, etc. to the new host over the next few weeks. Eventually you will receive an email inviting you to join us at Groups.io. Your user name will be the same, but you will need to make a new password. I suggest you wait for the invitation before heading over there, as we are still moving stuff. Please note the group name will be slightly changed -- it does NOT have the underscore "_" in the name: Old "C14_EdgeHD" New "C14EdgeHD" The new addresses will be: Website: http://groups.io/g/C14EdgeHD Post via email: [email protected] Subscribe: [email protected] Unsubscribe: [email protected] Contact group Owner: [email protected] Help: [email protected] I believe Yahoo Groups will continue to work as an email list server, but new posts to the website will stop around 10/28/2019. Yahoo plans to delete the website and content around 12/14/2019. - John B.

To move a Yahoo group to groups.io you have to pay a $110 one time fee and then it can be free for every year thereafter. I have just paid to move one group and don't have the resources or the time to move this group. It's a shame because there's a lot of good information here. On the other hand the group is very inactive compared to days of yore. :( If someone is particularly interested in "saving this group" I will give such person or persons moderator powers. With moderator powers you can go to groups.io and start a group over there. You set up a bot to grab everything (files posts photos) in this group and transfer it over there. The bot emails you to let you know that it has joined the group, and you make the bot into a moderator. Then you give the bot the OK to go ahead and make the transfer of the group. Then the bot gets to work. It's all spelled out step by step as you go through it. When you're done you can set this group to send out alerts that it is no longer an active group and that people should go to the new group. Losmandy moved about a year ago. I still have my C14! Still use it! It's been nice knowing all of you and I'm sure I'll see you on other groups. By the way I'm not the owner of this group just administered it since, god knows when. Whoever sets up the new groups.io (and pays for it) will be the owner of the new group and can appoint moderators and co-owners and the whole 9 yards. Greg N

Folks, With help from Greg N. and Gary J. we will be migrating this group to "groups.io." It will take 1 to 2 weeks to get it all done. Hopefully all the content will transition. If all goes well, you will receive an email invitation to join the new group. Please wait for that invitation. I will update as things progress. - John Biretta

I am curious about how far the mirror moves per rotation of the focus knob? Or more practically, how far per 10 turns? In characterizing my autofocuser, I need to know the travel per step of the focuser motor.

Dear All, I played around with OSLO to found out what is the optimal positioning of the Schmidt plate with the classic C14 design (ie. not relevant to the Edge-HD). It turned out that if the Schmidt plate is set 400 mm ahead of its original position, the radius of the field limited by diffraction is enlarged by 4 (9 arcmin instead of 2.2 arcmin). This is not as large as the C14 Edge-HD (12.4 arcmin) but not far away. Of course, the optical tube becomes much longer (there is no free meal ...). The other optical characteristics do not look to be affected (Strelh ratio on the optical axis, variation of focus with wavelength). More information here : http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/astro/instrument/sensitivity/sensitivity-analysis-SC14-Plate.htm Best regards Christian Viladrich http://astrosurf.com/viladrich/index.html

This may have been recently posted but now I'm having problems installing my feather touch focuser on my CLASSIC C14 Non Edge. I waited nearly 2 months to receive the parts for this along with the stepper motor and wired Starizona Micro Touch. I never even got to the step of motor installation ; since the feather touch seems to be jammed and is not turning at all. Looks like I'll need to take a trip to Starizona in Tuscon and have Dean do his magic and try to get this installed. I followed to the letter for installing this and thought it would be a piece of cake. I was a bit confused from the cd installation instructions that were given to me. This came with no brass stop ; but just the round brass ring that gets screwed onto the bearing and locked in with a tiny 1/16th set screw. I called Starizona to verify if this was the correct way to install and they stated yes. Now I'm wondering if the wrong Feather Touch Focuser was sent to me. The package box label does state FTM C14 so it appears correct. I tried to back the focuser back out but then the focus rod was exposed. Now best advice for me is to leave it alone and let Dean look at it. I just don't want to mess with it as is and possibly risk the primary mirror from damage. Don Curry

Okay I have bought a LF Coma Corrector Focal Reducer from Starizona making the scope F7.2 at 2650mm now and have it attached to a Paramount ME Mount with a QSI 683 WSG-8. I was able to achieve focus on the system with perfect round stars; although I now have the task of running an extensive T-Point model with the scope and manually picking 6 stars on the same meridian side to begin with. My question for everyone is there anyway to lock the mirror with the supplied shipping screws you use when transporting the OTA around or do I just let it run a 300 point model and just see what the results will be in SKY X.?

Original focuser was normal and easy to turn. The FeatherTouch is very difficult to turn. The threads on the focuser shaft were untouched throughout the installation and the feathertouch nut turned easily during installation. Any ideas?

My experience with SCT's and guide scopes is as follows..... I have a C14-f5.5 and a 50mm guide scope/finder scope mounted directly to the telescope all on a AP1200 mount. I'm imaging with a SBIG ST8xme using a Remote guide head in the aforementioned guide scope and my control software is CCDSoft v5 and The Sky 6 pro. When calibrating the guider, I place a bright star in the center of the guider's field and calibrate for 45 seconds. The guiders fov is huge! Then I go to my target image and after choosing a guide star I begin my imaging. All my guiding is lower sub pixel even with 15-20 minute subs. and as long as I'm 25 degrees or so above the horizon, I rarely need to calibrate. Now about that pesky mirror flop! Yes, I have it. But unless I cross the Meridian, it doesn't happen! But if it did I'll lose one sub exposure while the guider catches up. Another big plus is finding a guide star is so easy my pet Yorkie can do it. Not to mention problems from filters in the imager. Plus I can frame my image perfectly while the orientation of my guider stay the same. By mounting such a short guide scope firmly to the telescope, the flexure problem is undetectable in my images. Many newer imagers have built in guide chips in front of their main chips but they still can have trouble finding a guide star while try to frame the main image. I've had the OAG's and long focal length guide scopes and never got them to perform as well as my setup. My two cents, Bob

I'm about ready to say you should not use a guide scope if you want to successfully track an C11 Edge HD scope. I am talking about at f7 or f10, and any exposure beyond about 120 seconds. Prior to receiving my Edge, I took some final 15min photos with my guide scope guided Meade 10" setup. All consistently good as usual. When the Celestron arrived, I moved my camera setup and guide scope setup over to it, The results were unacceptable. After much discussion with Celestron and on the forums, and here, Celestron decided the scope was eligible for warrantee repair. Celestron tore it down and rebuilt it from the bottom up and returned it to me. The result was the same problem. They sent me a new scope. Same problem. In between times I moved my camera and guide scope setups back to the Meade. All good as usual. I don't intend to go over everything here, but if you are interested you can read details with pictures on Cloudy nights here. Do NOT use a guide scope with a C11 Edge - Cats & Casses - Cloudy Nights Do NOT use a guide scope with a C11 Edge - Cats & ... Page 1 of 2 - Do NOT use a guide scope with a C11 Edge - posted in Cats & Casses: Im about ready to say you should not use a guide scope to successfully t... View on www.cloudynights.com Preview by Yahoo During the course of discussions, I heard over and over that different ones had wrestled with their Edge, and the common issues associated with using a guide scope, and eventually ended up with an OAG, and have never looked back since. After in effect having received 3 new scopes, all with the same problem, imo you should Not plan on imaging DSO's with this scope tracking with a guide scope, plan on needing an OAG. A few claimed to be successful using a guide scope. But further inquiry often revealed they were Not talking about an Edge HD, or were using shorter times, or a FaStar setup, or some other fast config, or they had a memory of before they went to an OAG, or it works sometimes but not reliably. So if you are consistently successful using a guide scope, good for you. My advice, if you are a newbie or even an experienced journeyman astrophotographer, don't waste your time or expect consistent (if any) acceptable results using the C11 with a guide scope. Plan on buying what it takes to use an OAG. If anyone want's to suggest why I was unsuccessful, I'd be interested to discuss. I'd still like to know where the problem is. But in the mean time I've gone to OAG. Ettu

some first lights from my new Edge C11. Stan http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/m013_C11_SM2017.jpg http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/m013_C11_SM2017.jpg View on www.stanmooreastro... Preview by Yahoo http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/ngc4567_sm2017.jpg http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/ngc4567_sm2017.jpg View on www.stanmooreastro... Preview by Yahoo http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/Tadpole_sm2017.jpg http://www.stanmooreastro.com/images/Tadpole_sm2017.jpg View on www.stanmooreastro... Preview by Yahoo

Has anyone imaged Charon? Not a full fledged dbl split. But enough of a bump or elongation, in the right place, to say you got it? If you've ever seen the discovery photo of Charon, taken with the Naval Observatory scope S of Flagstaff, you realize how little of a bump on an otherwise round "star" it is. I thought I'd try for it this summer. My 14" scope and camera, with it's FL and pixel size, indicated it might be possible. Unfortunately the seeing on the handful of possible nights never gave me a chance, except for possibly one night. I haven't done the refinement of the subs to tell for certain yes or no, but hot off the press was not encouraging. I see Stellurium will give you the position of Charon at any given time. So at least you know where it aught to be. Years ago when I asked this question, I was told to forget about it. Not even close to maybe. But equipment and techniques have improved A LOT, And I'd bet someone has done it, or could. Maybe it's even a common check marker among master and high end journeymen imagers? One of these days, just to add it to my "planets" collection, I'd like to get Eris. At mag 18.7 it should be no problem. Humana and MakeMake even though brighter, just don't have the same cache, for me. Sedna at 21.1 might be beyond reach.