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Careful disassembly of the motor revealed that one of the brushes was somehow skewed in it's slot and was crossconnecting the commutator slots. How this happened is beyond me, as I have taken many of these motors apart and not seen this before. Be aware that disassembly is NOT for the faint of heart as getting the springs and the brushes is tricky, but using sewing needles to hold the springs back while reassembly is a neat trick. Pulling the needles out after the brushes and holders are back into position is the secret for me. A LOT of the pieces of these slightly different models of the motors are interchangeable, but not all. Many of the gearboxes use the same frames with only slight changes in gears, so changing the ratios is often possible if you have a selection of them. They often come on sale on the auction site in batches so for hobbyists, picking up a few occasionally is a good idea. Mike VE3EQP .....>

I have a 13V 8000 series pittman servo motor with a 207:1 Gear Ratio (I think) 250 CPR that has started drawing about 1.3A and is running really slow. Anyone have this problem that might know how to cure? I 'suspect' a magnet? or field coil came unstuck from the case, but would like any ideas before trying to disassemble it. This is actually on a Celestron Nexstar 8i, but I have about 8 other Pitman 8000 motors that I have experimented with with my sitech 1 controller and made a 10" dob < /g/Sitechservo/album?id=100077 > system. I guess I'll be able to fix it eventually, from motor swapping parts, but I'm at Starfest in Ontario, and am hoping to fix it today or tomorrow. IDEAS??? Mike .....>

This is my first image taken with my new Player One Saturn - M SQR camera. It has a larger pixel size (3.76 microns) and I believe it mates well with the C14. This was taken at a focal length of around 8000mm. I also experimented with some new processing techniques and borrowed heavily from Damian Peach's masterful images: http://www.bcastropics.com/img/gallery/5/2022-08-30-0642_3-U-RGB6-set_full.jpg Brian Combs

This data set, consisting of two RGB images taken over three minutes was taken under very good conditions. Actually, some of the best seeing I have experienced in a very long time: http://www.bcastropics.com/img/gallery/5/2022-08-29-0654_5-U-RGB7-set2_full.jpg Brian Combs

Here is a combination of two RGB images taken over six minutes under good seeing: http://www.bcastropics.com/img/gallery/5/2022-08-06-0825_1-U-RGB5-set_full.jpg Brian Combs

Mostly average seeing this night, but I managed two decent data sets: http://www.bcastropics.com/img/gallery/5/2022-07-29-0927_1-U-RGB3_full.jpg Brian Combs

Hello, Is there a CGX-L group somewhere? I am facing a problem with my CGX-L mount. Thank You Ajay Talwar

I cleaned the optics inside and out on my C14EdgeHD today. It's been 4 years and it had gotten pretty bad. I took off the corrector and let it bathe in a soap solution and copiously sprayed the primary with what I thought was a dawn soap/water solution, blotted with cotton balls. At some point I noticed black marks on my gloves and thought perhaps it was some grease from the baffle tube. It turned out to be dissolving black paint from the inside of the tube. This whole affair turned into a panic mode operation. I finally got to a point where I believe I got everything off the primary and it looked pretty clean without streaks. In the meantime the paint on the inside of the tube near the primary has been streaked, blotted, and generally destroyed. I am assuming for now that the soap/water solution was something else. Perhaps acetone? My nose doesn't work so I can't tell from smelling. I just can't fathom why I would of put a solvent like that into my optical cleaning solution. OR...has anyone out there had the black paint inside their C14 dissolve in water and soap. Man! that was a big FUBAR project, I hope I never experience again. I will have my wife smell the solutions to see whats what. I may need to repaint the inside but that will be a whole other project.

Hello Everyone, my first day here, I want to photograph the Moon continuously for several hours and want to keep the Moon positioned (stationary) in the field of view. I will select the Lunar Rate in the menu, but the Moon does not move at the same speed every day. So how/where do I find out the speed of the Moon on a particular day, and can I match with the same speed in a C14? Thanks for your insights. Ajay Talwar Nightscape Gallery: www.ajaytalwar.com/gallery TWAN Gallery: www.twanight.org/talwar

hello all, thank you for allowing me to join the group. I am having trouble polar aligning my c14" edge hd using the drift method.( i am in the southern hemisphere, so no polaris) i am using a 9mm plossl illuminated reticle eyepiece. Am i right in thinking that is far too much magnification given that the focal length of the ota. is 3910 divide that by 9mm ( reticle eyepiece ) equals a mag of 434x. i guess that the very small FOV wont help either, i cant even find one star in my eyepiece. i used the same eyepiece to drift align with a meade 12" and it worked very well. any suggestions would be MOST welcome. thank you so much. clear skies! peter.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/42637403@N06/51375718149/in/dateposted-public/ Joe Rome

C6 With HyperStar F/2 (300mm) https://www.flickr.com/photos/42637403@N06/51366745158/in/dateposted-public/ You have to click the mouse on the image. Once is nice, twice shows what little brother can do. Shot in Austin, Texas without my dew shield. Joe Rome

Hi, Does anybody have some pictures of the C8 EdgeHD primary mirror support ? My OTA is plagued with collimation instability. I understand the mirror is hold on the back side by a screw and a shim (or a washer ?) of the other side. The screw might not be tight enough. Glue is also applied on the back side to improve stability. Any idea of the reference of this glue ? In any case, some picture would help to understand what is going on. PS : I don't refer here to locking the mirror cell (I have done this on my C14), but about the interface between the mirror and its cell. Thanks !! Christian

I am in the UK and my old Celestron NexStar 4GT is still working well except that the AA battery supply has failed and only my Lithium pack can be used. This is a bit of a pain at times and I suspect it is probably a simple problem. Are there any repairers in the South east (I am in Tenterden, Kent). F1 in Sittingbourne have closed and I have been on to SCT but he no longer repairs Celestrons. Any advice please? Nick Hudd

Despite some frustrating clouds, seeing was very good this morning when I captured this: Through My Looking Glass, Astrophotography by Brian Combs (bcastropics.com) Brian

Good seeing this morning when this image was taken: Through My Looking Glass, Astrophotography by Brian Combs (bcastropics.com) Brian Combs

Hey everyone. I have a C14 edgeHD and wanted to get opinions on which setup would give me the best stability (less tube flexure etc) , using parallax rings on the OTA or to use two dovetail bars ( like the one which came with the scope, only adding another on top)? also how many dovetail bars can be added to the 14 Edge HD? thanks in advance for any input. Gaetano

Hello George, The original C14 locks are designed for use during transport. The mirror is moved all the way back using the internal focuser, and the captive screws in the back are screwed in to hold the mirror from bouncing around. Some clever folks have invented mechanisms to go into those locations to stabilize the mirror when it is in focus. I don't have those, I will let others tell of them. The EdgeHD is different: <https://www.celestron.com/blogs/knowledgebase/how-do-my-edgehd-mirror-support-knob-flexible-tension-clutches-work-will-they-interfere-with-focusing-my-scope#:~:text=The%20EdgeHD%2014”%2C%20like%20older%20Celestron%2014”%20tubes%2C,you%20may%20damage%20either%20the%20focuser%20or%20mirror.> -Charlie Lasnier