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I did a search for "reverse trip ball lever" and read all the messages. Non addressed my issue. I got my J head Series 1 BP about seven years ago. Outside of a few minor issues it's been working beautifully. I made a micrometer quick nut and when I went to disassemble the quill screw I found that the reverse trip ball lever was installed backward. The threaded end of the lever is not accessible. I figure I could try to drill and tap the part although it may spin around. I am not sure if it's hardened. Has anyone else had this happen? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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For Sale - BP M-head quill housing/belt housing unit complete and running
For Sale - Bridgeport M-head quill housing & belt housing units together, very clean, complete & running (motor is not for sale). Spindle is No. 7 B&S, set of collets available to go with head. Quill housing and belt housing can be separated for easier packing/shipping. Located mid-Atlantic/Virginia for regional pick-up or delivery. shanksh(at)comcast(dot)net for info, pics, video, price.
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V2 XT head lubrication
3
I have a series 1 V2 XT that drips a bit of red oil, which seems to be coming from the gear changer handle. The manual says that this head is lubricated for life and that the back gears use Sunoco 741 EP or Mobillux No 1 EP. These seem to be a 90 weight gear lub, not a red oil. Maybe someone put ATF in the gearbox before I got it? My concern is that it may now be low on oil, as I've had this machine around 3 years, and it drips a few drops every day. Is there a way to drain this oil or add new? Thanks
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OT big lathe in Texas
5
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/770078051088911/?mibextid=dXMIcH I asked seller for details. Too big for my shop. Lodge and Shipley 18"
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I have a late 80's 2HP 2J mill in my home shop. The mill is in excellent shape with signs of light use. The head is pretty quiet, no need for a rebuild, but I've been getting this lil niggling that the bull gears should get a lil grease, and unfortunately this head is of a vintage where Bridgeport decided to skip the grease fitting on the back of the bull gear housing. I don't see an easy way to get grease into that housing. I guess Bridgeport decided they were lubricated for life, and not in need of future lubrication, but I hear that all the grease gets thrown off after a short while, and the gears just run dry. So my question is, should i just be content to have those gears live out the decades running dry, and if not, is there a trick I haven't thought of to get some grease in there. My best plan right now is to drill into the flat on the back of that bull gear housing (where the older heads' zerk fitting used to get installed) and thread a fitting in there...but to pull that off without any pesky chips getting deposited into the gears seems risky, especially since the head is running great right now. Should i care if the bull gears wear a lil faster than if they were well lubricated? Has anyone seen these gears after lots of use to have an opinion about the effects of a life lived under lubricated. Signed - High and Dry
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Where do you guys find the best deals on bulk fasteners? Sometimes we find a good price at Home Repot or Lowes for 25# containers of deck screws, but we've been using a lot of the Timberlok and similar type structural screws for wood projects. Talking everything from 2-16" long. Also Tek screws, washer type with rubber gaskets.
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change gear sets on epay
2
I don't need these for my lathe but they are inexpensive and might work for others with older lathes or even for any gearing projects. Seems like this Vevor brand is really ramping up to try and be a one-stop for machining stuff. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164579251186?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110002%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D247874%26meid%3Ddef5d2973d4249e4bcb232f4cc7b0960%26pid%3D101111%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D295457849749%26itm%3D164579251186%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedTopSellersItemsInMetaCategoryItemsV2WithMLR%26brand%3DVEVOR&_trksid=p2047675.c101111.m2109&amdata=cksum%3A164579251186def5d2973d4249e4bcb232f4cc7b0960%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABEJKn7A6zE%252F9RKeYPcI9p0PHff%252F%252Ba%252FtloJO5EddjOQTTvdwijuRrTWuUp1QJxzNdA4ZYiSUhZy3KGAuec6g3Z5QuCXLTOMzopB1ES0F44qz7p0yd8MnxJYlARm4wGt2%252BVVX4b%252BaDJ1X5cyHlpmGFy9gZZ6bNxg8Kjgp2SdPo3kiNQriddolUqrJ4%252FWfqZff1pJERlYWfpZPuiprV%252FTYTrLu6149EeFS3jfL0xq%252BWv2cocE3VQoLYT2POyysfMilv0t%252BgWvr1TYMSDFnTjtjsdZ%252FQdfOHTtMrIDFVkR8LdxwaO9pu2XnXLD5Q%252Fldawx1TRMMIECNwuVPTnnYGjv3wfcZFlZle%252FEMVv7TMd819Pexsv%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675
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J Head Stepbelt vs 2J Vari-drive Head - which to put into use
6
Twenty five years ago I bought a Bridgeport mill that came with a partial 2J vari-drive head (missing motor & vari pulleys). I never found a reasonable priced motor back then and ended up buying a step belt J head to complete the mill - the 2J head went into storage in the garage attic - and still there. Fast forward to my current Bport mill - also a step belt with a 1.5 hp (2-pole?, 3475 rpm motor, stock US Electric motor) that I run on a static phase converter. With the 3475 rpm motor, spindle speeds range from 160 to 5440 rpm. Last fall I got (3) Bport vari-drive motors at a local auction for a modest amount of money. One of the three motors was fried and I sold it to a Bport rebuilder as a core. That leaves me with a 1.5 hp and a 2 hp 2J motor. I suddenly have mill head options. BTW, I'm a bit lazy and typically use the mill as if it only had 2 speeds (Hi-Low, though I did have a reason to go up to the 5440 rpm belt setting last week) - this is for hobby use, I do not have to be efficient with my time or my tooling. Option 1: is to keep the step belt and get a VFD (with a brake resistor). This was my intent prior to acquiring the 2J head motors last fall. I would also complete assemble the 2J head and sell it and also sell off the extra unused 2J motor for more tooling monies. Option 2: is to refresh the 2J head and install one of the 2J motors for use on my mill & maybe buy a VFD, sell off the remaining 2J motor and sell off the step belt head. I have collected motor vari-drive pulleys for both 1.5 and 2 hp configurations. I'm thinking that there is no reason to use the 1.5 hp motor if I have a 2 hp motor available. Am I correct in understanding that the only difference between a 1.5 hp and 2 hp Bport head is the motor and the motor related pulley asm - all other parts being the same in the head? I have a Textron vintage Bport manual but it only shows the 1.5 hp 2J head so I can not cross check P/Ns. Your thoughts?
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B3 dimensions
5
My nephew just broke the 1/2" collet on his M head. $300 each is out of the question for a new one so it looks like I'll make him one. Does anyone have a fully dimensioned drawing available so I can make one correctly? Bob
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cut knurler
3
I bought the back u issues of Home Shop Machinist (HSM) with the details of the Cut Knurler. I translated the sketches in HSM to TurboCad. But I have yet to initiate construction. It's a miller-heavy project. Any one else done this particular or similar project? What steels did you use? Did you heat treat?
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WAS Re: [BridgeportMill] OT Maybe? Hand cleaners
2
I'm thinking this group needs to diversify. Look at the responses of a thread about soap. Maybe discuss projects? On 3/12/23 9:11 AM, vintage_racing_fan wrote: > I buy zep ¡°Wild Cherry¡± at Walmart, abrasive as well but seems to work better than the orange product. > > > > >
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OT Maybe? Hand cleaners
17
A while back, okay almost 20 years ago, a friend worked at Jorgenson Steel in Denver. You know how that mill oil on steel is... He and I and a roommate started a floor cleaning business and did the floors there at night. They had a hand cleaner in the locker rooms that from what I recall was a green powder, not a liquid, and it worked with or without water and did not leave your hands slippery, greasy or stinky at all. I'd forgotten about it until recently and cannot recall the name but it was amazing. Anyone have any ideas on what it might be and if it's even still made? It was not a typical household brand, more like an industrial supply type product you'd never see on a store shelf. I see Mean Green that looks like a crumbly paste, but it looks different. Any ideas? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIFLGLQ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00DIFLGLQ&pd_rd_w=smaZM&content-id=amzn1.sym.89ee1d2e-380f-4a05-89e5-d22eb0a17762&pf_rd_p=89ee1d2e-380f-4a05-89e5-d22eb0a17762&pf_rd_r=ZX0RHDEETNSJQJY35YR1&pd_rd_wg=r1TW1&pd_rd_r=d22cf4c5-0ad7-4891-9b0d-56de6e5f7693&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSlMzUDBITkVYSU1MJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjYxNTY4MVY5SFcxNklUSVhSRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjkyMjAyM01HRjJXU0NIS1RXSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= https://www.amazon.com/Worx-All-Natural-Hand-Cleaner-Powdered/dp/B00ANU35DG/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_w=HqrQI&content-id=amzn1.sym.6a0b07b6-1a0b-45e8-8450-5c85af215183&pf_rd_p=6a0b07b6-1a0b-45e8-8450-5c85af215183&pf_rd_r=ETTB8QZNH0P60DBV6104&pd_rd_wg=AdJrc&pd_rd_r=1201b4b5-9507-41e5-bcb9-b62235a3bcea&pd_rd_i=B00ANU35DG&psc=1
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power feed 6f
3
bridgeport mill should you be able to turn the feed handle with power feed engaged?
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erskine v5
4
#bridgeportmill
Hi I need a wiring diagram for a erskine power feed board, I think it¡¯s a version 5. All the ones I have found are nothing like mine. I need to replace two resistors but can¡¯t find out what values they are.
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All I posted this on the South Bend Lathe group too, but FYI: For someone that needs a good variable speed, reversable setup, I am offering a Baldor IDXM7006 inverter duty ? HP motor and TECO Westinghouse L510-101-H1-U Variable Frequency Drive for sale. See attached pictures. The motor is 230/460V 3 phase, frame 56C, ¡°explosion proof¡±, ball bearing, 1735RPM at 60Hz, made in USA and is used but excellent shape. There are minor scratches and scuffs on the paint, no dings or dents. This was used to run a small pump in a lab. The inverter is 110v input, ? HP, again in excellent condition ¨C I would say it almost looks new. I do not have the manual, but it is available online from numerous sources on the web. I purchased both of these for my employer, so I know their history of very light use. When they no longer were needed, I was able to save them from the junk pile. I was planning to use the combo in my shop but they have sat for a couple of years, and I need to reclaim some space. I am offering the combo to this group first for a price of $300. I am located in central NJ and would prefer to not have to ship, as the motor weighs 39 lbs, but will ship via UPS if you are willing to pay the actual cost which I think could be around $100 depending on distance. I¡¯ll give first priority to local pickup, but if I get no takers, I will keep your info and sell to the first person who needs shipping. Thanks for looking and very best John
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A local feller has this for sale for 200. Says it opens 6" and weighs 70#. Anyone know what model it is and if it's a good deal?
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OT maybe, but ebay dividing heads?
2
Anyone use one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/165622341954?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lwotkgcoszu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9S4jfnnKS4i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/165600750837?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lwotkgcoszu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9S4jfnnKS4i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The same seller reduced price for the 5" to $203 shipped but I think if I were to get one the 6" has quite a bit more height and swing, and has a MT3 center vs the MT2 of the 5". I already have an 8" Yuasa H-V rotary table but I like the tilting aspect and tailstock these have in addition to the dividing plates. Anyone have one?
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I had a problem with my V2XT where the z axis wouldn't home and it seemed to be overshooting. In my ignorance and brazenness, I broke the encoder on Z axis. I've since replaced the encoder with one that should have the same output (250 lines, TTL Quadrature). There were some things I wasn't sure of (A leads B on CCW rotation, and index pulse direction) but I put a scope on Y axis and confirmed mine has the same shape and lead etc. So, in theory I'm back to the place where the original failure occurred. However, when I try to enable the drives, the Z axis immediately begins to travel down, and very soon throw a message "Z DAC underflow". Note that this happens during Enable, not during homing. I've captured the output of the encoder at this point and have attached a picture here. Yellow is A, Blue is B and magenta is index. I've confirmed continuity from encoder to the AXSBOB for all lines. Any idea what the problem could be and suggested next step? Thanks for any guidance. Will Grant
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Bridgeport 1.5 hp Vari head motor - how remove plastic fan, how trace wires?
2
I have a new to me 1.5 hp motor off of a Vari-drive J-head that is not playing nice when I hook it up to a 3 hp static phase converter (with a 3 hp idler running). I have no issues running different Bridgeport 1.5 & 2 hp motors on the same set up so I want to trace the motor wires (not all of them were tagged). How do I remove the plastic fan on the top of the motor to proceed to dismantle the motor? Image of motor/fan attached. It appears the fan is just pressed on the shaft. Once I have the motor end bell off, how do I determine which wire goes where - in other words which wires need to be combined for 220v if they are not tagged? I have the chart on the side of the motor to tell me which wire numbers are to be combined. Is there any chance the wires might have a second tag on them inside the motor?
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My BMDC has been damaged by 5V short, which burned L1. Does anyone know what part I need to replace it with? Its surface mount. (What L value and what current capacity?) Thanks for any guidance. Will Grant
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Image Name
Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am