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Reverse Trip Ball Lever in Backward?

[email protected] All Messages By This Member #19814 I did a search for "reverse trip ball lever" and read all the messages. Non addressed my issue. I got my J head Series 1 BP about seven years ago. Outside of a few minor issues it's been working beautifully. I made a micrometer quick nut and when I went to disassemble the quill screw I found that the reverse trip ball lever was installed backward. The threaded end of the lever is not accessible. I figure I could try to drill and tap the part although it may spin around. I am not sure if it's hardened. Has anyone else had this happen? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Dan Beeker All Messages By This Member #19815 I wouldn't even try to drill it. At best it will spin in the hole. At worst you will bugger up the trip lever leaving more crud in the hole.? I just rebuilt a j head. Was my first and was a real learning experience. The trip lever was stick in its hole. Initially I couldn't move it at all. Wouldn't wiggle, wouldn't move. The screw was broken off so couldn't just grab it and pull it out. I flooded it with penetrating oil and occasionally blew the hole out with air to get the gunk out. Then flooded it with more oil. I poked at it with a dental pick until it started wiggling a little. It took a while - I picked at it in my spare time over a couple of days. Eventually was able to pop it out. Don't remember whether I popped it out with the dental pick or whether I used a small diameter cylindrical neodymium magnet. From the pictures I do see there is a short cylindrical section before the ball on the unthreaded end. If you can get it to wiggle, perhaps you can grab onto it with a small pair of tweezers? Or maybe a piece of tygon/rubber tubing over the cylinder? If not perhaps you can drill out the end of a brass tube very slightly smaller than the cylinder's radius and pull it out? Or, if you can get the cylindrical end clean enough, use a very small epoxy to glue the brass rod (now drilled to be slightly larger than the cylindrical end) to the trip lever. But try everything else first. The last thing you need is to gum up the hole even more. Don't force anything. Patience in such cases has (almost) always worked for me. Brute force never works for me unless I just want to be done with something and take it to the scrap dealer. Dan toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 9/2/2023 8:48 AM, reflexermr via groups.io wrote: reverse trip ball lever
Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. All Messages By This Member #19816 开云体育 Is that This? -- Sent with Tutanota, enjoy secure & ad-free emails. Sep 2, 2023, 8:48 AM by reflexermr@...: toggle quoted message Show quoted text I did a search for "reverse trip ball lever" and read all the messages. Non addressed my issue. I got my J head Series 1 BP about seven years ago. Outside of a few minor issues it's been working beautifully. I made a micrometer quick nut and when I went to disassemble the quill screw I found that the reverse trip ball lever was installed backward. The threaded end of the lever is not accessible. I figure I could try to drill and tap the part although it may spin around. I am not sure if it's hardened. Has anyone else had this happen? Any help is greatly appreciated.
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #19817 Cliff, Yep, that's the part. I seems there is a better chance of getting the part free if it's broken. The part in my machine is still in one piece, just installed backward. Just spitballing here, not that I'd do it but I'm wondering if I were to drive the plunger the part may break making the removal easier. Michael
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #19818 Hi Dan, Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush. I like your idea and will keep it in mind. I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a little. Michael
Dan Beeker All Messages By This Member #19819 开云体育 Michael, Old oil/grease has likely solidified. Magnet won't work until things are moving rather freely. Apply penetrating oil to the reverse trip ball lever and pick on it occasionally. If the feed reverse trip plunger doesn't move apply penetrating oil and pick on it occasionally as well. They should eventually loosen up unless the parts are bound up from being assembled backwards. If all else fails one could edm the plunger and trip lever. Would cost a little money but the cost will be much less than a new J head. As a last resort, if you have to resort to drilling/milling out something I think I would drill/mill the plunger from the front of the head. Don't think you can get to it from the top without drilling through the housing. Drilling from the front, the plunger won't spin on you. You'll end up drilling through the reverse trip ball lever as well but it may be easier to remove in pieces anyway. The hole left shouldn't have any effect on the operation. Or you can plug it if it bothers you. Dan On 9/3/2023 6:27 AM, reflexermr via groups.io wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Hi Dan, Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush. I like your idea and will keep it in mind. I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a little. Michael
Nick Andrews All Messages By This Member #19820 You could drill through the piston from above, right through the plunger.? That would be easy to replace and not damage the head casting either.? On my 2J2 head, the feed didn't work and everything was crapped up.? I had absolute hell getting the detent ball out of the worm/shifting shaft for forward/reverse feed.? But I eventually got everything apart through perseverance, WD40, penetrating oil, air, solvents, PB Blaster, strong magnets, etc. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 7:53?PM Dan Beeker <debeeker@...> wrote: Michael, Old oil/grease has likely solidified. Magnet won't work until things are moving rather freely. Apply penetrating oil to the reverse trip ball lever and pick on it occasionally. If the feed reverse trip plunger doesn't move apply penetrating oil and pick on it occasionally as well. They should eventually loosen up unless the parts are bound up from being assembled backwards. If all else fails one could edm the plunger and trip lever. Would cost a little money but the cost will be much less than a new J head. As a last resort, if you have to resort to drilling/milling out something I think I would drill/mill the plunger from the front of the head. Don't think you can get to it from the top without drilling through the housing. Drilling from the front, the plunger won't spin on you. You'll end up drilling through the reverse trip ball lever as well but it may be easier to remove in pieces anyway. The hole left shouldn't have any effect on the operation. Or you can plug it if it bothers you. Dan On 9/3/2023 6:27 AM, reflexermr via wrote: Hi Dan, Good advice! Since it's still operational I'm in no rush. I like your idea and will keep it in mind. I did try the magnet technique but the part didn't even move a little. Michael
Ron in AZ All Messages By This Member #19822 When I rebuilt my Bridgeport two years ago I had the same issue.? After watching a half dozen videos o rebuilds and trying several options, I finally sprayed penetrating into the hole every day for a week to clear any greases.? Then tried the magnet, tweezers, blowing air, finally settled on trying my vacuum pump for brakes. Adapted a piece of tube to fit the hose and pulled down a vacuum on the pin to hold it and pull out. I wonder if mine pin is stuck again.
Adrian Nicol All Messages By This Member #19823 开云体育 good grief......that looks very, err, sad? On 09/09/2023 16:04, Ron in AZ wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text When I rebuilt my Bridgeport two years ago I had the same issue.? After watching a half dozen videos o rebuilds and trying several options, I finally sprayed penetrating into the hole every day for a week to clear any greases.? Then tried the magnet, tweezers, blowing air, finally settled on trying my vacuum pump for brakes. Adapted a piece of tube to fit the hose and pulled down a vacuum on the pin to hold it and pull out. I wonder if mine pin is stuck again.
Marty All Messages By This Member #19824 I had honestly FORGOTTEN that I had to FIX this as well ,so long ago !? It was indeed BROKEN , and it seems like it FELL out .? Sorry to be of no real help on the issue at hand. I suppose my own mill was just a constant victim of ignorance and simple inattention. Although I still believe much of the DAMAGE it ever received was done by it's proximity to FORKLIFTS ! Usually I would not give utilization of VACUUM even a millisecond of thought for removal ,but this is retrieving a sort of loose part. Not a screw or interference fit fastener. I hope some luck falls your way here !
[email protected] All Messages By This Member #19825 Gents, Thanks for the ongoing support and suggestions. As yet I've had no success in removing the part. When I move the quill screw the lever does show movement. That, to me, indicates the part is in tact and not hindered by crusty grease/oil. I didn't use penetrating oil but will give that a try. I piloted a #43 hole into the shaft of a 5/16 - 24 hex screw to use as a drill guide to tap for a 4-40 tap. The idea was to put enough pressure with the screw to keep the part from spinning while drilling. No swarf was generated. Either the part was spinning or it's hardened. According to H&W it's not a hardened part. Expoy --- At another point I cleaned and degreased the part and surrounding area, cut a piece of thin aluminum to use as a thread protector so as not to get any epoxy in the threads. I used a small ball endmill to contour the socket end of a screw hoping to achieve more surface area for the epoxy; waited 24 hours and attempted to pull. No Go! I haven't given up yet. Thanks again for everyone's help, Michael
Dan Beeker All Messages By This Member #19826 开云体育 Michael, Is it possible the feed reverse trip plunger was installed upside down? Don't know how this would affect removal of the reverse trip ball lever. Alas I have no further counsel other than penetrating oil and patience. Good luck. Keep us posted. Dan On 9/15/2023 5:47 AM, reflexermr via groups.io wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Gents, Thanks for the ongoing support and suggestions. As yet I've had no success in removing the part. When I move the quill screw the lever does show movement. That, to me, indicates the part is in tact and not hindered by crusty grease/oil. I didn't use penetrating oil but will give that a try. I piloted a #43 hole into the shaft of a 5/16 - 24 hex screw to use as a drill guide to tap for a 4-40 tap. The idea was to put enough pressure with the screw to keep the part from spinning while drilling. No swarf was generated. Either the part was spinning or it's hardened. According to H&W it's not a hardened part. Expoy --- At another point I cleaned and degreased the part and surrounding area, cut a piece of thin aluminum to use as a thread protector so as not to get any epoxy in the threads. I used a small ball endmill to contour the socket end of a screw hoping to achieve more surface area for the epoxy; waited 24 hours and attempted to pull. No Go! I haven't given up yet. Thanks again for everyone's help, Michael

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