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I've been digging through all the schematics and I don't see anything for the rotary encoder board?? While the board that's in there is functional, I'm not a fan of how bent the board is.? Seems like a quick easy task for me to design a board that fits properly, but I need to know which encoders are used and if there's any other devices on that board.
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My board was acting funky, missing steps and all around not working correctly.
When I removed the board from the case it began to function properly again.?
I wrote hf signals, no support given. No replacement offering and I was simply told that I was wrong and they’ve never had an issue.
i ended up removing the cable socket at extending the port to a daughter board that is now on the back of the rotary encoder board. This allowed me to reinstall the unit flush and without the unecsssary tension.
HFSignals said they are coming out with a revision, but that doesn’t help anyone currently stuck with the bent board.
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Aren't you overcomplicating the issue? You don't have to make a big deal out of a small one.
Recently, I also had to take out this pcb, because I managed to break the encoder shaft. I replaced it with a Chinese encoder (a bit bumpy) and tried to put it back in place. I saw that the cable connector is higher than the encoder, which is why the pcb bends in a curve during amplification.
The problem can be solved simply: put some washers or nuts as washers on the axis of the encoders. Do so that they can still be attached to the front panel. That is all. No need to overcomplicate it, this is not atomic physics.
Think in simple terms, then you won't overcomplicate it. Rather, pay attention to the cooling of the device, it should not get too hot and the generated heat should be able to escape from it.
I am slowly reaching four thousand QSOs, for me, I modified the device to remove the generated heat and to set the Bias correctly. Don't wait for hfsignals to solve it. If you have noticed, if not, I will tell you that in the case of uBitx, what you found to be good was not included in the next amendment either. The manufacturer leaves it up to the user how to solve the modification. Read what you can learn from and make the correction.
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Gyula HA3HZ
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Gyula, I'll have to look and see, but a stack of washers might do the trick.? But if I remember right, there wasn't a lot of threads left on the encoder.? It's a pretty simple problem with a really easy solution.? I have all the tools to quickly design up a PCB and have them made for ~$5USD or less. Another $5 for encoders and the connector, seems pretty simple.? I can pull my radio apart and reverse engineer the components, but was just hoping for a simple schematic to do it.? Jon as you said, my encoders are not always reading right, and often skip or jump when they shouldn't.? There's times where I spin the wheel many times and it goes back to where I started.? Minor frustration, but should be an easy fix.
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Hi! On 24/04/2024 9.44 am, HA3HZ wrote: Aren't you overcomplicating the issue? You don't have to make a big deal out of a small one.
Recently, I also had to take out this pcb, because I managed to break the encoder shaft. I replaced it with a Chinese encoder (a bit bumpy) and tried to put it back in place. I saw that the cable connector is higher than the encoder, which is why the pcb bends in a curve during amplification.
*The problem can be solved simply:* put some washers or nuts as washers on the axis of the encoders. There are longer and shorter encoder shafts around. I have a unit with shorter shafts that leave no room for washers. So it is not always that easy. I also unsoldered the connector and attached it using short cable bridges. It works perfectly now, but this issue should have been avoided from the beginning. Do so that they can still be attached to the front panel. That is all. No need to overcomplicate it, this is not atomic physics. Think in simple terms, then you won't overcomplicate it. Rather, pay attention to the cooling of the device, it should not get too hot and the generated heat should be able to escape from it.
I am slowly reaching four thousand QSOs, for me, I modified the device to remove the generated heat and to set the Bias correctly. Don't wait for hfsignals to solve it. If you have noticed, if not, I will tell you that in the case of uBitx, what you found to be good was not included in the next amendment either. The manufacturer leaves it up to the user how to solve the modification. Read what you can learn from and make the correction.
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Gyula HA3HZ
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So here's what I'm currently assume the schematic to look like.? I need to take my radio apart to verify, but I won't be able to do that for a few days.? If anyone else knows if this is correct, let me know.? There was discussion in another thread about adding caps and resistors.? Any thoughts there?  The area I'm not totally confident is the 5v line.... does that connect to the switch??
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I have not spent much time looking at the encoder, but as I remember,? the extra components added were intended to debounce the contacts. Another individual said all debouncing was done in the? software. Not really sure if it matters which approach you take though. The goal is smooth reliability. My biggest concern is multiple birdies, presumably mixer byproducts. I think some rf shielding on the boards might help some. I hope this helps.?
Scotty WD4PYT?
On Thu, Apr 25, 2024, 6:41 PM Jeff Duce via <jefe_de_estado= [email protected]> wrote: So here's what I'm currently assume the schematic to look like.? I need to take my radio apart to verify, but I won't be able to do that for a few days.? If anyone else knows if this is correct, let me know.? There was discussion in another thread about adding caps and resistors.? Any thoughts there?
The area I'm not totally confident is the 5v line.... does that connect to the switch??
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Yeah I plan to use large ground planes on both sides with lots of vias to tie the two together.? I've thought about adding ferrite beads to the data lines as well, but not sure that would do anything.
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I have not spent much time looking at the encoder, but as I remember,? the extra components added were intended to debounce the contacts. Another individual said all debouncing was done in the? software. Not really sure if it matters which approach
you take though. The goal is smooth reliability. My biggest concern is multiple birdies, presumably mixer byproducts. I think some rf shielding on the boards might help some. I hope this helps.?
Scotty WD4PYT?
On Thu, Apr 25, 2024, 6:41 PM Jeff Duce via <jefe_de_estado= [email protected]> wrote:
So here's what I'm currently assume the schematic to look like.? I need to take my radio apart to verify, but I won't be able to do that for a few days.? If anyone else knows if this is correct, let me know.? There was discussion in another thread about adding
caps and resistors.? Any thoughts there?
The area I'm not totally confident is the 5v line.... does that connect to the switch??
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Turns out I do have some time today.? Pulled my radio apart and here's the correct schematic.?  While 5v is ran to pin 9, it doesn't connect to anything on the encoder board.? I should have a PCB drawn up shortly.
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This is still a draft, need to double check the encoder footprint...? I'm not sure what encoder is in the radio, and the footprint I have needs a bit of tweaking to fit the right encoder.? (In theory, most any encoder would fit, but the tabs that hold it in place seem to vary a bit from one manufacturer to the next).? Also need to add more style points :-).? I'll be busy all weekend (might actually be on the radio for a bit), so I'll have to come back to this next week.? It's looking like price might be around $4usd+shipping for blank boards, and maybe ~$10 for board w/ parts (depending on which encoders are picked).? Very preliminary numbers.? I'll want to make sure I get a few and test it out before a order a bunch, so probably a few weeks away from being a real thing.  
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Would be interested in 2 when you get it finished as I have 2 V2s
Gerry Sherman
Sent by the Windows 11 Thunderbird
On 2024-04-25 23:32, Jeff Duce wrote:
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This is still a draft, need to double check the encoder
footprint...? I'm not sure what encoder is in the radio, and the
footprint I have needs a bit of tweaking to fit the right
encoder.? (In theory, most any encoder would fit, but the tabs
that hold it in place seem to vary a bit from one manufacturer to
the next).? Also need to add more style points :-).? I'll be busy
all weekend (might actually be on the radio for a bit), so I'll
have to come back to this next week.? It's looking like price
might be around $4usd+shipping for blank boards, and maybe ~$10
for board w/ parts (depending on which encoders are picked).? Very
preliminary numbers.? I'll want to make sure I get a few and test
it out before a order a bunch, so probably a few weeks away from
being a real thing.
 
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Hi Jeff,
I would be interested in two with the parts included.?
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Sounds great!? As I said before, it might take me some time to get all the details and testing done, but I'll let you all know when it's ready.?
Another thought that I had... I think I'd prefer that the encoder on the top have less resolution.? It kinda bothers me that I barely turn the knob and I've cycled through 6 modes.? I don't know what the encoder resolution is right now, but I'm guessing it's
20ppr (pulses per revolution).? That is great for the VFO knob, but I think it would be better with a 12ppr or lower for the upper.? Any thoughts there?? Think I just need to try it out and see how it goes.
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Hi Jeff,
I would be interested in two with the parts included.?
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Hi Jeff,
The response of the encoder can be changed in the software.? In my opinion, this is a better method than reducing the PowerPoint presentation.
73
Evan
AC9TU
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Ha! I'm assuming ppr got autocorrected there.? That's a great point I didn't realize.? I'll be out camping/pota-ing this weekend.? I'll see if I can count the number of pulses (assuming that software isn't changing that).? Currently assuming
it's either 20 or 24.
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Hi Jeff,
The response of the encoder can be changed in the software.? In my opinion, this is a better method than reducing the PowerPoint presentation.
73
Evan
AC9TU
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The original encoders are here:https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail/Bourns/PEC11L-4020F-S0020?qs=fgHA1UgJI8CzObWXJBveJQ%3D%3D
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Just map the pins on the connector to the wires on the ribbon cable, use?a continuity tester and note down the results numbering the ribbon cables lines 1 - 10. Use a continuity tester to check your work. Desolder the connector on the front and then chop off the end of the ribbon cable, split out the wires and solder to the holes on the pcb as per your notes. It took me around an hour in total and problem FULLY solved. No big deal. :)
The original encoders are here:
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I'm back from a soggy weekend.? Went camping with the youth group from church, it rained the entire time and some younger boys who had a bad tent ended up completely soaked at night.? So we left early and I didn't get time to play pota.? Tried to do some FT8 at night, but I found my RTC battery must have died as the time was way off, and there was no cell service to get it synced, so not a great radio weekend.? Oh well.? Anyway, Peter, yes there's lots of other simple ways to fix this.? I have the tools to do PCB design, and it's a fun side project.? If I order enough boards they will be very inexpensive and no wire cutting needed.? But your solution would work just fine as well.? YO8RC, that's the encoder I had decided to use, so that's great to know!? When I was playing with my radio in my tent this weekend, I counted about 30 'clicks' for 360degree, which doesn't really match the 20 of the encoder we both are looking at.? But I'll give it a go and see what happens.? I should be able to place the PCB order today, but to save costs I'm going with slow boat shipping so it will be about 10+ days before I get the parts in the mail.? Stay tuned!
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The code was sent by HFsingnals
The Mouser parts number is as given below; Click the link for the same.
https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail/Bourns/PEC11L-4020F-S0020?qs=fgHA1UgJI8CzObWXJBveJQ%3D%3D
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You already know that you can put me on the list. Parts or bare board it doesn’t matter to me. I’d be more than happy to populate it myself if it gets me on the roster.
I appreciate the efforts you are putting into this.
FB OM!
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HA3HZ
Scotty R