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Has anyone used the 3D printed case from Thingiverse?
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Me, but of course I designed it. ;-)
the only issue that I know of is that there is a slot cut out for the potential meter board for the ribbon cable. The problem is if you use that slot, you will install your potential meter upside down with the tuning knob on top.?
the other issue is that the build volume for that case is very large and will not be printable with the popular ender 3 printers. ?
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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Hi Mark
I took your design and STL files and split them into 2 top and 2 bottom pieces and printed them with PLA on my ender 3. I then glued the 2 pieces together. Not super pretty but I now have a case. Just finished it last night.
Are you OK with me uploading my files to thingverse, giving you full credit for the design of course?
73
Glenn VE9GJ
On March 22, 2024 11:04:29?p.m. ADT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Me, but of course I designed it. ;-)
the only issue that I know of is that there is a slot cut out for the potential meter board for the ribbon cable. The problem is if you use that slot, you will install your potential meter upside down with the tuning knob on top.?
the other issue is that the build volume for that case is very large and will not be printable with the popular ender 3 printers. ?
73
Mark
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Mark, I knew someone here on this group designed this case. I could not remember who.? THANK YOU. ? I had the box printed up and had one issue with the display not sitting in the front properly. The cut out where the left side of? the display slides into, that cutout is not deep enough for the display. The channeling for the display cutout is incorrect (too high) at the top. The bottom seems? to be ok, but not deep enough. I had to take a router bit and open? this channel up to get the display to fit. One other question. The supplied? ribbon cable for this display, is that long enough to connect to the PI4? The ribbon cable supplied with my display seems too short. One thing I was very impressed with is the #4-40 pre tapped screw holes for the display holding brackets and front panel mounting screw holes.? That is so cool. I am waiting for the tilt stand rear bracket to arrive (after thought) ?then I can do final assembly. Hopefully every thing goes together with out any ?issues. Except tight fit¡.. As for the ribbon cable of the encoder board, I rewired my encoder board and got rid of? the IDC connector. Again, Thanks for the design and making it available. 73 Barry Sent from for Windows ?
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From: Mark HatchSent: Friday, March 22, 2024 10:04 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [BITX20] sBitx printed case ? Me, but of course I designed it. ;-)
the only issue that I know of is that there is a slot cut out for the potential meter board for the ribbon cable. The problem is if you use that slot, you will install your potential meter upside down with the tuning knob on top.?
the other issue is that the build volume for that case is very large and will not be printable with the popular ender 3 printers. ?
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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Mornin' Glenn:
We used a similar approach for the T41. The front panel is photo paper held in place with a spray glue and then coated with clear Krylon:
 You can see the top joint in the middle of the case. These two pieces are held together with small bolts and 3 molded holes on a lip of the case edge. It works well and is pretty durable.
Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 09:34:28 AM EDT, Glenn VE9GJ <ve9gj@...> wrote:
Hi Mark
I took your design and STL files and split them into 2 top and 2 bottom pieces and printed them with PLA on my ender 3. I then glued the 2 pieces together. Not super pretty but I now have a case. Just finished it last night.
Are you OK with me uploading my files to thingverse, giving you full credit for the design of course?
73
Glenn VE9GJ
On March 22, 2024 11:04:29?p.m. ADT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Me, but of course I designed it. ;-)
the only issue that I know of is that there is a slot cut out for the potential meter board for the ribbon cable. The problem is if you use that slot, you will install your potential meter upside down with the tuning knob on top.?
the other issue is that the build volume for that case is very large and will not be printable with the popular ender 3 printers. ?
73
Mark
--
Jack, W8TEE
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Glen,
Please share them on Thingiverse, printable or anywhere else ! That is great work.?
let me know when ?and links and I will update my GitHub page and provide pointers. ?I suspect that most folks are like you and don¡¯t have a large printer hanging around.?
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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Barry,
wish I could say I was surprised that the display channel was not correct. One of the things that 3d printer owners struggle with is dimensional accuracy. ?This is a function of flow rate of the materials as well as real steps in a given dimension. And of course it gets worse with larger pieces as errors add up. ?Hope making it fit wasn¡¯t too much work! ?I made it a tight fit on ¡°my machine¡± ??
I did buy ?and use longer cables. Someone had ?in a prior discussion provided a pointer to an assortment of cables on Amazon and I just ordered them. ?This is what I ordered
Now I have more cables then I know what to do with!
and of course be gentle with that connector on the pi4 board ?broke the retainer in mine:-( ?but was able to transplant the camera connector to replace it ?
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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Mark,? thanks for the response. I put the main PCB in the box and it is a tight fit. So much so, that the PCB does not need screws or the nuts for the BNC or the three 1/8 inch jacks to secure the PCB. In other words, it ain¡¯t going no where once installed. I had? to open up the BNC hole and cut away some of the opening where the PI USB / Ethernet connectors are so the PI could clear. Not a lot of material, just a fraction. This box was printed with PLA and that might be some of? the problem with dimensional accuracy, but I don¡¯t rightfully know. Yes. The ribbon connector locking mechanism is not very strong and will snap in half easily. Been there, done that before. I ordered those ribbon cables. Like you, I will have more then I need. To open up that channel for the display, I tried cutting a deeper channel with my Dremel but it was rough. Later, I found that using a large head nail in my ¡°el cheap O¡± ?soldering iron, allowed me to melt? a groove. 73 Barry K3BO ? Sent from for Windows ?
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From: Mark HatchSent: Saturday, March 23, 2024 8:34 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [BITX20] sBitx printed case ? Barry,
wish I could say I was surprised that the display channel was not correct. One of the things that 3d printer owners struggle with is dimensional accuracy. ?This is a function of flow rate of the materials as well as real steps in a given dimension. And of course it gets worse with larger pieces as errors add up. ?Hope making it fit wasn¡¯t too much work! ?I made it a tight fit on ¡°my machine¡± ??
I did buy ?and use longer cables. Someone had ?in a prior discussion provided a pointer to an assortment of cables on Amazon and I just ordered them. ?This is what I ordered
Now I have more cables then I know what to do with!
and of course be gentle with that connector on the pi4 board ?broke the retainer in mine:-( ?but was able to transplant the camera connector to replace it ?
73
Mark --
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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Great, I will do that.
I had to increase the horizontal dimension by about 1mm for the display "pocket" and ended up doing a slight shaving with a knife of the the pi ethernet? and BNC hole.
73
Glenn VE9GJ
On March 23, 2024 9:14:51?p.m. ADT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Glen,
Please share them on Thingiverse, printable or anywhere else ! That is great work.?
let me know when ?and links and I will update my GitHub page and provide pointers. ?I suspect that most folks are like you and don¡¯t have a large printer hanging around.?
73
Mark
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Hi Mark
Files uploaded to Thingverse.
73
Glenn VE9GJ
On 2024-03-23 21:14, Mark Hatch wrote:
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Glen,
Please share them on Thingiverse, printable or anywhere else ! That is great work.
let me know when ?and links and I will update my GitHub page and provide pointers. ?I suspect that most folks are like you and don¡¯t have a large printer hanging around.
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
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Excellent! ?Will update both Thingiverse and GitHub. Might be a few days as I don¡¯t have access to my development system. But it is great benefit to others!
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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On Sun, Mar 24, 2024 at 08:51 PM, Mark Hatch wrote:
But it is great benefit to others!
Agreed!
Also, I found the following on the sbitx group on Facebook that I think will be of interest to POTA operators:
?
Thanks to Jared for sharing!
?
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Regards,
Dave, N1AI
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I sent the files to a friend of mine what has a 3D printer and he said that it was warping and wasn't printing for him. Would someone out there be willing to print me a case or is there a company that could print one for me?? I really like the sun shade, it is a great idea -- '72
Aaron?
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Great idea that shade should be pretty easy to add to the 3d model. Let me think about it when I get back to my desk.?
mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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A common problem, especially with petg filament and perhaps a glass bed. Base level is not sticking fully. Happened to me once but I forgot how fixed it. Maybe more squish on first layer? Or more hairspray¡
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
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I had a lot of bed adhesion issues trying to print the case with PLA. I switched to smooth glass bed with some glue stick applied on a preheated bed which solved the edges curling up.
73
Glenn VE9GJ
On March 26, 2024 7:25:06?a.m. ADT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
A common problem, especially with petg filament and perhaps a glass bed. Base level is not sticking fully. Happened to me once but I forgot how fixed it. Maybe more squish on first layer? Or more hairspray¡
73
Mark
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Aaron
I can print it if its still needed.?
I printed about 20pcs of HDMI customs covers for free (just postage covered) to folks here in group.
Petr?
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What is the recommended print fill rate??
What plastic works best? ABS?
Are these the right magnets?
https://www.amazon.com/L10x5x3mm-rectangular-refrigerators-whiteboards-projects/dp/B07RT31M63/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_1/133-9434737-9197107?pd_rd_w=sf4Gj&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=8FNTB9S1TSNWC57F65Z7&pd_rd_wg=GKmWu&pd_rd_r=35822945-9714-4f13-9d71-882c49b5e536&pd_rd_i=B07RT31M63&psc=1
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Magnets? ?My case doesn¡¯t use magnets. I did use some brass inserts in a couple screw holes but that is optional.?
I made mine at 100i infill. But probably 50% would be fine. I print in petg these days. But probably material is really your preference.?
73
mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
|
On Tue, Mar 26, 2024 at 06:25 AM, Mark Hatch wrote:
A common problem, especially with petg filament and perhaps a glass bed. Base level is not sticking fully. Happened to me once but I forgot how fixed it. Maybe more squish on first layer? Or more hairspray¡
73
Mark
--
AJ6CU/7
KD8CEC 2.0, Nextion Screens,? and open source uBITX Raduino boards for Arduino IOT, BLE, RP2040, Teensy 4.0, and Raspberry Pi Pico
https://github.com/aj6cu
Mark, I just printed the case you designed for a friend and it quite nice. Many thanks for making this available. To get large blocky prints to stick to my bed and not warp, I do the following: 1. Print on blue painters tape. Yes, you get lines in the print but you really don't notice them that much. Do a wipe down with alcohol and you may have the opposite problem in that you can't get the print loose. Not all blue painters tape is the same. I use Scotch Original. 2. Increase the "squish" (Z Offset) until you get an elephants foot and back off just enough for it to go away. Takes a few tries. Worth it. 3. In the slicers First Layer Settings, increase the width and height of 1st layer by at least 100%. I use Simplify 3D V5 and it took 200% for this project. 4. Increase the temperature of the first layer. This will vary with filament. I used Black Jessie from PrintedSolid.com at 225C. 220C for the rest. Consistent and priced good as well.? Dimensional Accuracy can be adjusted without editing Marlin. I don't use Klipper yet. I use this site and it makes it easy: Howard AC1MN
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Dave, N1AI
Aaron K5ATG
AE9J