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?Yes, it is, Cesar, and now you might want to solder in female headers on those open sockets and then you can just PLUG IN a nano rather than soldering in the next one......sorry for the troubles you're having.....we've all made those kinds of mistakes.....
gordon
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I wish i had the possibility to buy spare things such as the raduino base board. Unsolder and rake apart the nano is a pain in the neck
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Hi Gordon, I need a Raduino board.... PayPal invoice me.
My shipping address is the same as my billing address.
Bernie, KC9SGV
Sent from my iPad
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On Jan 28, 2018, at 2:39 PM, Gordon Gibby < ggibby@...> wrote:
?Bernie....I think they are so overwhelmed now that it will be months before they get back to offering anything other than just the basic transceiver.? ?Partly for that reason I ended up making a board to basically DO what the raduino does....? if others
need it we can make it available.??
gordon
I had the same error messages.
Found out the mini USB port was broken.
The plug was prohibited to be inserted properly by one of the small metal clips on top of the socket.
This was bent down into the socket, stopping the plug from being fully inserted.
These mini USB ports are very finicky and when you spray them with electronic contact cleaner, the solder pads underneath them let go from the Raduino board....
Can we please have a tab to a shopping cart on the website to reorder components and modules for these excellent kit radios ?
Bernie,
KC9SGV
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 28, 2018, at 12:35 PM, César EA3IAV < Cesarleon@...> wrote:
I could not get the blink sketch tonbe uploaded. I also tried the raduino sketch to see that tab thing you mentioned. At first I did not understand that selecting one ino file would just put them all on the arduino software
As you see an error popped up here too
<68102A2D_51A7_4EAD_A442_44B5FAFA26CC.jpeg>
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Cesar:
It is likely that you blew out the nano.
The most sensitive part of the nano (and most of the arduino clones)
is the USB interface (CH340 or CP2102 or ATMega32U). IF that goes,
even though the ATMega chip is good, it will not respond to the IDE.
You can check the voltages and regulators easily enough. Look
for the Vin, 5v, and 3.3v pins. If they are all ok, then the basic board is
ok and the ATMega chip MAY be ok...but maybe not, as one or more of the
port pins may be bad.
All in all, if the display disappears, and one cannot load a blink program,
get a new nano. Make the installation removable by installing female pins
on the board and male pins on the nano.
Note that if you still have 3.3v, it is likely that the Si5351 is good. IF not,
that may be blown as well...but it usually takes quite a bit to do that.
The usual suspects are the USB chip first, the regulators or ATMega chip
second, and the Si5351 third. Most of the "diagnosois" can be achieved with
a good schematic and DVM. However, only a reload of the program will
tell you about the state of the ports.
You are probably wise to replace the nano board.
john
AD5E
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Gordon & Cesar,
The display will not fit into socket if the Nano is mounted on sockets!
Raj
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At 29/01/2018, you wrote: Yes, it is, Cesar, and now you might want to solder in female headers on those open sockets and then you can just PLUG IN a nano rather than soldering in the next one......sorry for the troubles you're having.....we've all made those kinds of mistakes.....
gordon
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True. Raj.
But it is easy enough to cable the display.
This has been discussed before on the forum.
It means a little bit different way of mounting the rig.
And the benefit of a removable nano outweighs
the inconvenience, I think.
john
AD5YE
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I haven’t measured it ... but machine pin headers may work?? They are pretty low profile.
M
On Mon, 29 Jan 2018 at 5:03 PM, John Backo < jabac@...> wrote: True. Raj.
But it is easy enough to cable the display.
This has been discussed before on the forum.
It means a little bit different way of mounting the rig.
And the benefit of a removable nano outweighs
the inconvenience, I think.
john
AD5YE
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?Finally the Nano arrived. I flashed it with the xloader and everything went fine. bu when i connect it to the radio it is still doing nothing. I get 2leds flashing instead of only oke though... so i looked for other culprits? i tested the transistor and it seems blown 
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What transistor is that? Part number?
Vince.
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On 01/29/2018 10:51 AM, César EA3IAV wrote: Finally the Nano arrived. I flashed it with the xloader and everything
went fine.
bu when i connect it to the radio it is still doing nothing. I get 2leds
flashing instead of only oke though...
so i looked for other culprits
i tested the transistor and it seems blown
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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Judging from the shape of the tab, he's testing the LM7805 regulator off the Raduino.
The tester says it doesn't know about integrated circuits.
I suspect everything on the Raduino is just fine, including the LM7805.
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On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 08:32 am, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
What transistor is that? Part number?
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I swapped the lm7805 and voilà now turn back to my main problem? i will make a “not how to book” i promise 
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Now somehow ptt does not work
i have been debugging using this as a refference
I have tested orange wire to be well connected and i have checked its contacts with pins...
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What i saw while checking connecions was that pin 3v3 had not continuity with c1 so i soldered a wire directly to it.. is this fine??  
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Congratulations.? That picture looks a lot like PROGRESS!
_._
On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 11:12 AM, César EA3IAV <Cesarleon@...> wrote: I swapped the lm7805 and voilà
now turn back to my main problem?
i will make a “not how to book” i promise
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Pin 3v3 of what part has no continuity to C1?
Tell us exactly where you are adding this wire:? From what to what?
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On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 10:53 am, César EA3IAV wrote:
What i saw while checking connecions was that pin 3v3 had not continuity with c1 so i soldered a wire directly to it..
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On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 12:34 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Pin 3v3 of what part
Looks like he was saying the Nano wasn't getting pwr to the 5351.
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I placed the wire from 3v3 to c1(+ side
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I have checked continuity? Orange wire and a3 from Nano continuity-> ok
And also
D7 from nano to the right last pin connector to board> ok
also connection from raduino board to main board...
i also grounded the orage wire just in case it was the mic
any hint? Maybe a blown cap? I could test resistors in raduino board were fine
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Cesar
So exactly what are the symptoms you are trying to cure now?
What is it that does not work?
Your first post in this thread says:
? ? i plugged the pins in tge wrond side. Now the sreen is like this?
? ? i guess i ruined the arduino nano board a d maybe something else
Exactly what pins did you plug in wrong, and in exactly what way?
Did you rotate the entire Raduino around so the display was facing the inside of the radio?
That would put 12v on some of the Nano pins, which would have blown the Nano.
But now you have replaced the Nano and LM7805, can program the Nano, and the display seems to work.
Perhaps the problem now is that you plug the Raduino into the uBitx and you cannot receive any stations?
If so perhaps the si5351 is also blown.
The si5351 is only $1, but difficult to replace as the package is very small.
I suggest you turn the radio on and listen to the si5351 using a shortwave radio
tuned somewhere between 11.995 and 12.000 mhz.
Put the shortwave antenna very near, but not touching, the si5351.
See if you can hear the BFO, it will be a CW carrier with no modulation.
You should also hear the reference oscillator near 25.000 mhz.
Earlier you reported that "I placed the wire from 3v3 to c1(+ side"
Did that fix anything?
If so, exactly where did you add that wire?
This is one case where a photo might actually help, if you can't describe it completely in words.
Is there any evidence of a burnt trace on the board?
This might help us determine if the si5351 was damaged.
Perhaps buy a new Raduino from HFSignals.
That may fix it, though it it is possible that the original "i plugged the pins in tge wrond side"
blew out some stuff in the rest of the radio as well.
Your best path forward might be to find some other ham in your area
with a scope and a good understanding of how this stuff works to help you.
?
In answer to your question, I doubt it is a blown cap or resistor.
But could be, as I don't really know what you did to damage the radio in the first place.
Best Regards,
Jerry, KE7ER
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On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 10:35 am, César EA3IAV wrote:
I have checked continuity?
Orange wire and a3 from Nano continuity-> ok
And also
D7 from nano to the right last pin connector to board> ok
also connection from raduino board to main board...
i also grounded the orage wire just in case it was the mic
any hint? Maybe a blown cap? I could test resistors in raduino board were fine
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Don’t worry. I will not make you read anymore. I thought It was clear what I explained. If you don’t understand something you may ask. Not to mention English is not my first language. But it is easier for you to make a compilation of my clumsiness. Radio works and receives but ptt is?not working. No relais noise. No swiching. ?Somehow despite of all connections seem to be good as i teaces continuity. That wire was the only execption I did to make sure there is a connection between that pins I described. 
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On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 01:10 pm, César EA3IAV wrote:
If you don’t understand something you may ask. Not to mention English is not my first language. But it is easier for you to make a compilation of my clumsiness.
Jerry is asking, and he's not making a compilation of your clumsiness.? He is, however, making a compilation of all the issues you have had with the radio to get a thorough understanding of what might be causing the trouble. The situation is complicated and the symptoms you describe are confusing.? Blowing a regulator on the Raduino is very odd.? Losing the connection between the 3V3 and C1 on the Raduino board is also very odd.
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Raj vu2zap
Arvo W0VRA