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Pins and colors

Michael Davis
 

hi, I am finally getting up the nerve to add a new sketch to my raduino. My problem is that I had removed unused pins/wires from the 8 pin plug on the raduino. Then today inadvertantly removed the red one too. Please either take a photo or let me know the pin number and wire colors looking from the top, right to left. I now only have for tuning pin 1 violet, pin 2 blank, pin 3 green, pin 4 yellow and nothing else in pins 5-8. Thanks WA1MAD Mike
 

The color code is like resistors - 0 black, 1 brown, 2 red, 3 orange and so on!

At 03-07-2017, you wrote:
hi, I am finally getting up the nerve to add a new sketch to my raduino. My problem is that I had removed unused pins/wires from the 8 pin plug on the raduino. Then today inadvertantly removed the red one too. Please either take a photo or let me know the pin number and wire colors looking from the top, right to left. I now only have for tuning pin 1 violet, pin 2 blank, pin 3 green, pin 4 yellow and nothing else in pins 5-8. Thanks WA1MAD Mike
 

See

73 Allard PE1NWL
Michael Davis
 

I was so proud of myself, using 1.17.1 ...until I got to the upload step. I get "problem uploading to board" message see . Etc etc. could it be a bad cable, wrong cable, bad connection? I have the Bitx turned off and when it is plugged in to the computer usb port it (the screen on the Bitx) looks normal. A:7.1145 LSB. I'll read the error message link to see what it says. Thanks WA1MAD

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

you need to get board type nano and comm port correct.? In my environment, when I pick the comm port screen PnP finds the correct one every time.

I keep the Bitx off, and power through the USB. Upload will force a compile and then upload to the board.? In summary, Comm selection needs to be correct, board type needs to be Nano.

Larry
KB3CUF

On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:
I was so proud of myself, using 1.17.1 ...until I got to the upload step. I get "problem uploading to board" message see . Etc etc. could it be a bad cable, wrong cable, bad connection? I have the Bitx turned off and when it is plugged in to the computer usb port it (the screen on the Bitx) looks normal. A:7.1145 LSB. I'll read the error message link to see what it says. Thanks WA1MAD

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

To add - plug the RADUINO directly into the computer. If you're using any sort of hub, that tends to muck things up. Finally, if your default upload speed is 115200, drop it to 9600. That solves a lot of problems.?

On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 12:25 PM, Larry Acklin <acklin@...> wrote:
you need to get board type nano and comm port correct.? In my environment, when I pick the comm port screen PnP finds the correct one every time.

I keep the Bitx off, and power through the USB. Upload will force a compile and then upload to the board.? In summary, Comm selection needs to be correct, board type needs to be Nano.

Larry
KB3CUF

On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 12:14 PM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:
I was so proud of myself, using 1.17.1 ...until I got to the upload step. I get "problem uploading to board" message see . Etc etc. could it be a bad cable, wrong cable, bad connection? I have the Bitx turned off and when it is plugged in to the computer usb port it (the screen on the Bitx) looks normal. A:7.1145 LSB. I'll read the error message link to see what it says. Thanks WA1MAD

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD











--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO
andrew.krause@...
(404) 732-2369
Jack Purdum
 

Sometimes you need to install the drivers that are distributed with the IDE. Look in the drivers subdirectory if the IDE directory and run the *.EXE that applies to your system.

Jack, W8TEE

From: Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2017 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Pins and colors

I was so proud of myself, using 1.17.1 ...until I got to the upload step. I get "problem uploading to board" message see Etc etc. could it be a bad cable, wrong cable, bad connection? I have the Bitx turned off and when it is plugged in to the computer usb port it (the screen on the Bitx) looks normal. A:7.1145 LSB. I'll read the error message link to see what it says. Thanks WA1MAD

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

Ah yes.? CH340 communication with the cheap Nano clones. ?google nano clone usb.

Larry

On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Sometimes you need to install the drivers that are distributed with the IDE. Look in the drivers subdirectory if the IDE directory and run the *.EXE that applies to your system.

Jack, W8TEE

From: Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2017 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Pins and colors

I was so proud of myself, using 1.17.1 ...until I got to the upload step. I get "problem uploading to board" message see Etc etc. could it be a bad cable, wrong cable, bad connection? I have the Bitx turned off and when it is plugged in to the computer usb port it (the screen on the Bitx) looks normal. A:7.1145 LSB. I'll read the error message link to see what it says. Thanks WA1MAD

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
Michael Davis
 

My comm port selection is greyed out and I see no baud speed option. Hmmmm

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

Mike WA1MAD

What OS (Windows, Linux, OS-X, Android, etc.) are your running?
Which IDE version are you running (1.8 is the latest)?

On Linux....disconnect your USB cable, on a terminal enter "lsusb".
??????????? then plug in your USB cable and again enter "lsusb".
??????????? the difference between listings should be the USB port that is
??????????? connected to the Arduino ttl/USB port.?

On Linux, problems might be:
??????????? Arduino type selected does not match the actual Arduino that is connected.
??????????? USB cable is not connected
??????????? 5V is not getting to the Arduino (shorted peripheral...?)
??????????? Arduino is DEAD!?? 8-(

Only Linux here so I can't help you with other operating systems.

Arv K7HKL
_._



On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 1:06 PM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:
My comm port selection is greyed out and I see no baud speed option. Hmmmm

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I had a cable that was +5 power only, no Data!

I guess for charging stuff?

Yikes, cut in half and into trash.


Mike, WA6ISP


On 7/3/2017 12:17 PM, Arv Evans wrote:
Mike WA1MAD

What OS (Windows, Linux, OS-X, Android, etc.) are your running?
Which IDE version are you running (1.8 is the latest)?

On Linux....disconnect your USB cable, on a terminal enter "lsusb".
??????????? then plug in your USB cable and again enter "lsusb".
??????????? the difference between listings should be the USB port that is
??????????? connected to the Arduino ttl/USB port.?

On Linux, problems might be:
??????????? Arduino type selected does not match the actual Arduino that is connected.
??????????? USB cable is not connected
??????????? 5V is not getting to the Arduino (shorted peripheral...?)
??????????? Arduino is DEAD!?? 8-(

Only Linux here so I can't help you with other operating systems.

Arv K7HKL
_._



On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 1:06 PM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:
My comm port selection is greyed out and I see no baud speed option. Hmmmm

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD








-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
Michael Davis
 

Well, I believe it finally uploaded successfully after a few Win 10 usb port hiccups. Now I need to add the mode switch and the wire up directions and probably remove/disable the anti gallop buttons from a previous hack. Wishing me continued luck. Advice???

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
Michael Davis
 

Errr, function button, not mode button.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD
 

On Tue, July 4, 2017 16:11, Michael Davis wrote:
Well, I believe it finally uploaded successfully after a few Win 10 usb
port hiccups. Now I need to add the mode switch and the wire up directions
and probably remove/disable the anti gallop buttons from a previous hack.
Wishing me continued luck. Advice???
I also recommend a pushbutton for SPOT/FINETUNE.

73 Allard PE1NWL
 

Don't cut it! Just label it. Use it power something. It won't work for a lot - the small plug is 'mini' where most 'phones etc. are 'micro' (hard to tell at just a glance) - but it should go in the 'junk box' (misc part bin) or hang up alongside all those cast-off IEC mains cables.
 

How did you do the removal? If you mangled the metal bits you're sunk, but still recoverable given fresh bits resurrected from cast-off wiring looms elsewhere. PC power supplies have them for 3.5" floppy drive power.
Be careful: there's a small 'locking tab' that needs to be gently pushed in to release them from the plastic 'housing'. I use a small flat-blade (jeweller's, cheap kit) screwdriver, but anything of similar dimension (pocket-knife blade?) could do it ... Once released, clip? the old wires (they'll be too fat and wrong color anyway), solder on fresh wires (you didn't throw them away, did you? Look at the intact ones to see which side to attach), use that pocket-knife (or similar) to (Gently again!) lift the 'locking tab' enough to become active again (~30deg.) and you're done.

If you're not up to that recovery, they can be bought - they're called "Molex connectors" (a brand, there are several/many different ones, but these ought to be available)- at your parts store. If you're really 'hip' and have the tool, you can crimp your wires back, but if not solder's good too - if you're encountering temperatures that melt solder you've got more worries than that! :) Good luck ...
 

"Molex KK".?

Or this kit:?

On Wed, Jul 5, 2017 at 4:34 PM, Dexter N Muir <dexy@...> wrote:

How did you do the removal? If you mangled the metal bits you're sunk, but still recoverable given fresh bits resurrected from cast-off wiring looms elsewhere. PC power supplies have them for 3.5" floppy drive power.
Be careful: there's a small 'locking tab' that needs to be gently pushed in to release them from the plastic 'housing'. I use a small flat-blade (jeweller's, cheap kit) screwdriver, but anything of similar dimension (pocket-knife blade?) could do it ... Once released, clip? the old wires (they'll be too fat and wrong color anyway), solder on fresh wires (you didn't throw them away, did you? Look at the intact ones to see which side to attach), use that pocket-knife (or similar) to (Gently again!) lift the 'locking tab' enough to become active again (~30deg.) and you're done.

If you're not up to that recovery, they can be bought - they're called "Molex connectors" (a brand, there are several/many different ones, but these ought to be available)- at your parts store. If you're really 'hip' and have the tool, you can crimp your wires back, but if not solder's good too - if you're encountering temperatures that melt solder you've got more worries than that! :) Good luck ...




--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO
andrew.krause@...
(404) 732-2369
Michael Davis
 

All set on pin colors, pin removals, pin re-insertions. I now understand the color code that was mentioned earlier. Pin A0-A7, black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green etc etc. makes sense now. It didn't earlier with only 4 pins inserted, it looked random. Thanks to all for your input and help.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

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