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I too questioned my power out. So I set up my base rig identical to how I would set up the Bitx. Same 40 meter dipole antenna, same voltage in, same frequency. I did the haalllowww thing into the Icom

I recently had no audio drive. I bought a new electret microphone element at RS and rewired and installed the identical looking little unit. My question is, does anyone know the spec of the OEM

Allard, Thanks for the updated firmware. I loaded it last night it help with taking the birdie down a bit. But its still there. So i order the radiuno separate from the bitx40 board. the board is

I am planning to use thin coax for the Raduino vfo output, what would be better 50, 75, or maybe 90 ohm?

Yeah that was me. From the responses so far I concluded that 4mA is best value in most cases. In my case it made a tremendous difference: At 2mA the birdie almost blew my headset, at 4mA it became

Also, here is the code that worked or my Arduino Mega /* Main code by Richard Visokey AD7C - www.ad7c.com Revision 2.0 - November 6th, 2013 */ // Include the library code #include

I'm doing the same with the same AD9850 and Arduino. I have the BITX40 built and the DDS is built per these

Ok here you go, have to give Ken?G4IIB credit as he shared this code with me. You will need to change the encoder & lcd pins. You will also need to change the USB/LSB bfo frequencies to match your

Good grief! Phones, autocorrect, and poor eyesight just don't go together... "little bigger" should have been "little bugger", and "Tony and fragile" should have been "tiny and fragile"

Better check with ARRL. it is copyrighted. 73 Ken VA3ABN

Hey Pete.? Absolutely! Send me a copy, I'll give it a try.? Jack, I'll post an updated copy later on today. I don't have access to it from work.? Thanks again to everyone for your help and

If anyone has one, it will be someone here! I bought a used copy of the re-issued EMRFD, with the CD that has Solid State Design and Intro to RF Design on it. Unfortunately, the CD is damaged.

John, The crystal was my fault, I broke that little bigger in my efforts to re-attach it. Those SMT parts are really Tony and fragile. I have 3 Nanos on the way, but at least now I can check the rest

This was one of things I was afraid of doing, I have never built any kits before but I do try to make things that usually don't work. I read the wire up guide about 3 or 4 times before I even

My turner has a preamp in the bottom i crank it up till i show noise on the scope and then back it down till just before it shows it has great response. I wish I had a d104 to scream the audio

I can put it back. So the original element, no preamp, with a cap of what value? Thanks!

you could have just put a cap across the mic input i didn't mod my mic at all wrote:

You're in good company, I did a similar thing and erroneously wired my function button to +12v instead of ground. Everything worked fine until I pressed the button and then it was as dead as a

I have one without the pre-amp. I just removed the original mic element (carefully so it can be put back) put some foam and an electret element in there and bingo!

I use a Turner Super Sidekick just have to make sure it's set on relay and no electronic for the PTT