Never mind, sorry, I just re-read Ashhar’s post:
“Ashhar Farhan Aug 15
. . . The inside of the toroid should be hollow and it not hollow it should have as little in-fill as possible. This is the key to high performance 3D printed toroids . . . “

Here is one of the 25mmToroid.stl files printed in PLA at 5% infill, then cut open with a small angle grinder. It looks like more internal open space is needed. Has anyone figured out layer thickness, infill proportion, etc. similar to Ashhar’s toroids?

Been staring at the source for Ian Lee's standalone S-meter and SWR. See?

In uart_forward.cpp, at line 75 and 78 we have the definition of PINs for passthru of the Nextion protocol from the main processor:

Aaron,

That is a basic screen.? Is there an R or N after the number?? If an N, then it is not a touch screen.


You can test the file load using the supplied power adapter without connecting the serial communication lines.? It should come up to the power on screen.? Do this before you install the screen.

I have found that some microSD cards will not work, even after formatting.? Sometimes the SD Association formatter will resurrect a card.? Other times I had to get a new microSD card to get it to load.


You do need a touch screen model for the files to load.
73
Evan
AC9TU

Evan,

Can you share the HMI files? Trying to collect all the Nextion screens in one place. See



I am not sure I have your designs?

73
Mark
AJ6CU

PS: Aaron - The 3.5" is often mounted upside down so that the sdcard is up. Not sure if the screens that Evan shared were flipped, but that has to be done in the Nextion editor and a different ttf file created. I respect Evan's choice on screens, but if you need a flipped ones another design is here:?

Thnks Evan,
I'm pretty sure that I have the basic one. Here is the number NX4832T035_011
--
'72

Hi Aaron,

Thank you for the compliment.

The correct file to use with the Nextion microSD card de[ends on the model of the Nextion display.? I would look up the model number on the Nextion site to see which model it is:

Most of the files provided are for either the Basic or Enhanced models.? There have been posts on using the .hmi files and the newest Nextion editor to work with the other models.

The correct is the one that matches the model that you have.? The file that you listed is for a basic 3.5" model.? If you have an Enhanced model, it would be UBITX_35_E.tft.

If the above does not help, please post the model number that you have and I will look up the correct 3.5" file to use.

If you have a basic or enhanced version, I prefer this Nextion screen layout:

73
Evan
AC9TU

Where can the .STL files for the 3d printed plastic toroids be found?
The PTO VFO one I have found easily. But the toroids are proving more elusive.?

Ah,

I expect folks were discussing ferrite toroids used in power applications (antenna and PA transformers) where designs have to be well done or else there can be high losses and/or damage to the cores.

As long as one doesn't need large inductance which then requires many turns, they are great (and the core can be free if you make it yourself).? Your example is what a good one would look like for sure.

73

I found the /home/pi/sbitx/data/user_settings.ini file that lists the starting values.
Now to find the code that should keep these values current Band/Mode session to session.

John?

Mark

开云体育

Where do I find the bias adjustment procedure?

Ok please forgive me folks. I am at a point where I am having 1-2 surgeries every week for the next month. This handicaps me farther from all of the drugs that they are giving me.?
I am trying to install a Nextion 3.5" display on my uBITX v6. For the Raduino, I loaded up the file that is named: UBITXV5_CEC_V1.200_NX and it is in HEX File format. I got the file from the link that Evan AC9TU shared with me on message #93965. (Evan has made it a habit of saving my skin from my uBITX misadventures. Thank you Evan) I used the XLoader software and there did not seem to be any trouble loading it up.?

My troubles are with the Nextion Display. I format a micro SD card to FAT32. Then I load the file?ubitx_35.tft?on the SD card. I then wire up the 3.5" Nextion display to the TFT Display Header on the Raduino. Here is how I wire it up.?
RED Wire- +5V?to pin #1 on the TFT Header (I am asuming that the pin numbers on the TFT Display starts at the top and goes down then the Raduino is plugged into the uBITX board)
BLACK Wire - Ground?to Pin #2
YELLOW Wire - RX???to Pin # 5
Blue Wire - TX?to Pin #11

When I power everything up the Raduino shows that it is powered up, I can see this because of the red LED light on the raduino lights up. However the Nextion does not light up at all. I have tried this with both a 2.8" Nextion and a 3.5" with the same results on both.?
If I plug the Nextion Display up to a 5V source (when I do this I am not using the yellow or blue wires) The Nextion display lights up with a white screen that says:
SIZE: 1967505
COPY SD:
0%
And that is it, it never goes above 0%
If I were to load Reeds Arduino Sketch to the Raduino and put the stock TFT display back on everything works.
So I believe that I am doing something wrong with loading the firmware to the Nextion and hooking the Nextion up to the Raduino. I'm stuck here and I'm not sure what my next step should be.?
--
'72

Probably not.? The way the heat sink is fabricated, the transistor has just enough "leg length" to reach.? Adding a socket would elevate the relative mount which apart from some fancy leg bending would likely be more trouble than it's worth.? You'd also, probably, add some resistance to the arrangement that would create heat where you don't want it.

I don't see these devices being replaced all that often.? In my case, I did not check the transistor clamp before I started using it.? I'm not 100% certain but I believe the center or or one of end clamp screws loosen in shipment and it was only a matter of time before the device failed due to overheating.? The differing sizes of the clamped devices made this single clamp arrangement susceptible to heating problem.? Removing the LM338 and carefully clamping the IFRZ24's with equal pressure should be all that is needed to limit future replacements.? That said, I do favor a simpler, single device clamp but I've not found one to date.? When I do, I'll share my source.

The real trick in replacing these devices is disassembly.? In order to unclamp the devices, you have to remove the front panel and the RPI.? I choose to keep the two ribbon cables connected to the RPI.? There is plenty of play to unplug the RPI without disconnecting the DSI or encoders.? Since I've done this a few times, this is my order:

1. Remove top panel and speaker.
2. Loosen RPI mounting nuts and remove right side panel.
3. Remove top left front panel screw from top.
4. While holding RPI, roll radio on back to view bottom.
5. Remove front panel screws while holding RPI.
6. Unplug RPI and lift front panel and RPI as a unit.
7. With long screwdriver, remove transistor clamp screws. Note: RF shield will bend forward to access left screw.
8. Remove rear panel.? Be sure to unplug power switch cables.
9. With the left side still connected to the bottom panel, the remaining assembly can be easily positioned to access transistors.

Failed devices will be easy to identify (low resistance between connections).? I typically cut the transistor legs close to the device so there is enough leg to grab as I heat the connection.? Only the solder melts, the leg is easily pulled out.? You will have to clean up the excess solder with wick or a solder sucker but that's always the case.

Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures.? When I open the case again, I will take a few and forward.??

Cheers, Scott

Hi Jerry,

I installed the buck regulator board, replaced the finals and went through the DRIVE and PA bias adjustments.? I am back on the air!?

Heat sink is much cooler to the touch and no noticeable increase is audible noise.

Thanks for your help, Scott