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Hmm, if your credit card company is willing to insure you when building a kit like this, that's ok with me I suppose.? Seems unlikely. I doubt anybody (you or the card company) will be getting a

Hi Roger, Use your scope to determine if the DDS is producing a signal at the DDS connection on the DDS board. Also check to make sure there is a signal at the DDS connection on the main board. I

That strikes me as unethical. You received a kit product, and damaged it by not following the instructions. Generally, when buying a kit from most any vendor that you put together, you don't get a

He can do the smell test for the vol control or the physical test as most probably if part of the vol control was burned out he will fell it as he turns the control. He can also check with a

Luckily I purchased everything on a card with purchase protection that covers damage to products within 120 days of purchase, so I may just submit a claim and repurchase the kit new. Kind of the

Use your signal generator to inject the appropriate frequency into the mixer instead of the DDS and see whether you receive a signal. If you receive any signal that eliminates a faulty DDS. After that

Thank you Raj. I really need to get some signal to know that the DDS board is ok. As it stands, I think its duff. Roger

Ah, what the heck. Topics are for veering off of. No money back then, Heathkit was too expensive. Was working with old TV parts and discarded WWII surplus (ARC-5's). But I spent many hours digging

Yes, you could compromise receiver sensitivity without much downside if atmospheric noise still exceeds front end noise. Though it is nice to be able to at least listen in when using a crummy antenna,

Roger, Take the two antenna wires black and brown and twist them to minimize radiation and solder the black to the SO239 ground tab and brown as you done. Keep those wires as short as possible. Do the

Trying not to veer too far off topic, but I remember seeing that resurected heathkit site several years ago, before they had any products to offer. It does look like they got it off the ground. As

The total for the board is less than 3 amps, and the PA is not switched.? There is not more than 500 ma being switched by the main T/R relay K1. K3 is handling the antenna switching between the PA

Hi Chuck, Has anyone measured the current that this relay is switching?? I wonder if it is exceeding the specification for these small relays which I think is normally 2A max. In general though, I

Thank you Vic. The antenna is a 30’ vertical connected with RG213. I have tried several aerials without hearing anything other than the clack clack of the tuning, whether the aerial is connected or

The frequency starting to step up or down at the ends of the tuning pot rotation is normal and part of the design to allow moving the tuning range. If you remember old SW receivers, it is kind of like

A quick look at this article looks very good. I'm in the process of learning the Eagle Schematic capture and PCB design package. That package includes Ngspice. I can use the LTSpice schematic included

Reversing the power supply into the board can blow a bunch of stuff, and thus be hard to fix. But the fact that the Raduino works at all is a very good sign. The Raduino is usually dead in the water

Hi, That?Wes Hayward article is pretty good. I'd recommend people read it, including myself. I think at the time I found that article we were trying to figure out just how much like a PIN diode the

After I posted my replay, I read Jerry's recommendations.? I like the second receiver test for the BFO to verify that the Raduino RF section is working.? I will need to remember that for future

Hi Jerry, i am using the amateurradiokits.in enclosure, which comes with some extra items to wire up connections, one of which is a three pin connector for volume. What happened was that the red and