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I have a version 3 board. I tried loading the original software for the nano and I am getting an error messages.
'si5351bx_setfreq' was not declared in this scope. Part of the code is shown below. I don't understand why the code will not work as is. Thanks in advance.
Jeff... ve3coj

void stopTx(){
inTx = 0;

digitalWrite(TX_RX, 0); //turn off the tx
si5351bx_setfreq(0, usbCarrier); //set back the cardrier oscillator anyway, cw tx switches it off

if (ritOn)
setFrequency(ritRxFrequency);
else{

Rod

The cw and ssb transmit paths are routed differently, so its at least possible. If you can monitor power supply current, that might convey you have more output than you think on cw. I have used the dummy load with diode detector technique, it works with appropriate math (w7zoi has documented it). Check a few bands. You could compare the ubitx and other rig at 5 watts to see what RBN or a live op is saying. We measured a bunch of ubitx rigs for power and spurs, they tend to follow the same trend reported by others.

Curt

If you mean 12.5 volts, that should work. you need about 3 amps or more. Check the voltage at the power supply when receiving and transmitting to see what it is doing.

Curt

On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 at 8:19 AM, Bob Lunsford via Groups.Io

<nocrud222@...> wrote:

I saw somewhere a comment about the knobs. The encoder knob is

not a problem since it has a pretty much standard size shaft diameter.

However, the volume control shaft is smaller.

I've seen knobs on old clock radios that are this diameter size but

when I could not lay my hands on the right knob immediately, I began

to wonder what I could use in the meantime

I used a twist-on wirenut designed for large size wires. It is yellow

in color — colors denote splice size.

Twisting it on the shaft provides a usable knob for the volume control

knob. I suggest using some caution when putting the wirenut on the

shaft, though, no need for it to be gorilla tight. Make it tight enough

only to turn radio on and off. Also, if the wirenut "knob" is not straight

on the shaft, it is easy to move it to the proper position and make it

straight on the shaft and more what one would expect of a knob.

Sure, you can go to Mouser and sqqa ASelect parts to one's heart's content

but this "fix" allows immediate use even if waiting for that Mouser

package. For me, I want a usable radio and not a display model even

though I want it to look good. This temporary "fix: works for me.

Hope this helps someone.

Bob — KK5R

My first two hf radios have been the Bitx, I used a bitx40 exclusively for a couple of months before upgrading to the ubitx last winter.

Yes the ubitx is not a perfect rig. We use ours for digital and phone work nearly daily. Running low power does hide many defects. A 100 or 1500 watt rig had better be spot on but at 2-10 watts who is going to notice, any harmonics are going to be based on a signal that is 10db-16db less powerful than a 100 rig and what close to 28db less than the full power station. Who is going to notice?

I participate on regional and national nets. (Norcars, midcars, Ecars and Natanet) fairly regularly Make contacts all over, depending on propagation. Just changed the screen on mine to the nextion 2.4, really like the if shift.

I am not oblivious to the 'deficiencies' that I have read about. When my first ubitx got wonky with a stuck tx/rx relay I bought 10 replacements then about a month later someone pointed out that there are better relays available. I see the manufacturer having a significant stock of components that they want to clear from their inventory and are very cost conscious. Forums move at 10x the speed of any manufacturer.

Hi Klostreich,

9-volt batteries won't last very long with loads over about 15 or 20 milliamps. That is not practical for the power FETs used in those radios. Two or three in series would give you the needed 18 or 27 volts nut still only good for 20 mA for any practical amount of operating time. The Bitx and uBitx would go through them in seconds to minutes.

If you build a pack with multiple series pairs - a number of series pairs in parallel - you would boost the capacity of the pack. I have the uBitx with a pair of the final FETs. Each idles with 100 mA of current at 12 volts. It should be somewhat less with 18 volts for B+. It will draw much more if you actually transmit. a series-parallel pack with about 10 batteries in it might get you through a few QSOs. That is physically large and expensive. None of the above accounts for the current drawn by the rest of the radio. A rechargeable 12 volt SLAB (sealed, lead-acid battery) would be more practical or a series pack of two such batteries.

For comparison, I do use 9 volt batteries to power some tube radios. I have some 6-tube superhets that I run on 90 volts B+. A stack of ten such batteries in series gives me the 90 volts and the radio will operate for several weeks of daily operation at about 10mA of *total* current drain. Those tubes draw almost two amps for the heaters and the 9 volt batteries won't work for that at all! For the heaters I have to use the good old 12 volt SLAB.

I am constructing another station with tubes intended for battery operation on CW. Three such tubes in the receiver with 90 volts for B+ needs ten of the 9-volt batteries (for 90 volts). The RX draws about 5 mA for all three tubes. The TX has two tubes and puts out about 1 watt (not 5 or 10 watts). The key down current drain on the B+ is under 10 mA. We can get quite a number of QSOs from those. Additionally, the filaments of those battery tubes can be powered for hours by a single D cell! Picnic table operation is practical.

In short, we cannot get 10 pounds of balogna from a 1 pound sack :)

Note..I could extend the B+ battery life with that transmitter by going to 180 volts for B+ (twenty batteries in the pack. That is the maximum B+ those yubes are designed for and the current drain would be approximately half of that for the 90 volt supply. Should last about twice as long. In my experience 90 volts is plenty.

73,

Bill KU8H

--
bark less - wag more

No idea but something must be wrong either on the ubitx, connections, wattmeter etc. You should see at least 10w on 7Mhz. On mine I see something like 14w on 7Mhz decreasing to less than 2w on 28mhz. There is no such difference between SSB and CW. Maybe SSB is a bit higher, but CW should be at least 10w on CW. This is my two eurocents or Italian liras.

Also, my power supply is only 1.25. Is that enough, or should I get a bigger one.

Hi,

My volume control knob is a discarded cap from a medical syringe that had contained saline solution. The threaded hole that once sealed the syringe is the same diameter as the shaft on the volume control. The hole in the knob is round but the control shaft has a flatted side. I inserted a wood sliver, made from a toothpick, into the round hole and pushed the knob onto the shaft for a several trial fits until I got it the wood trimmed to just the right size. I glued the wood shim into the round hole and allowed it to cure. Then put the knob on the shaft where it still is to this day.

73,

Bill KU8H

--
bark less - wag more

I saw somewhere a comment about the knobs. The encoder knob is
not a problem since it has a pretty much standard size shaft diameter.
However, the volume control shaft is smaller.

I've seen knobs on old clock radios that are this diameter size but
when I could not lay my hands on the right knob immediately, I began
to wonder what I could use in the meantime

I used a twist-on wirenut designed for large size wires. It is yellow
in color — colors denote splice size.

Twisting it on the shaft provides a usable knob for the volume control
knob. I suggest using some caution when putting the wirenut on the
shaft, though, no need for it to be gorilla tight. Make it tight enough
only to turn radio on and off. Also, if the wirenut "knob" is not straight
on the shaft, it is easy to move it to the proper position and make it
straight on the shaft and more what one would expect of a knob.

Sure, you can go to Mouser and select parts to one's heart's content
but this "fix" allows immediate use even if waiting for that Mouser
package. For me, I want a usable radio and not a display model even
though I want it to look good. This temporary "fix: works for me.

Hope this helps someone.

Bob — KK5R

The BITX radios are open source designs intended for hacking and learning.? They're not intended to be and likely never will be appliances.? The info's here on the forum - grab a soldering iron and join in!

Andy, KG5RKP

Yes.

The community is also working it.

In my dreams someone will offer a kit of parts, that has been verified on maybe a couple dozen rigs.

Meanwhile,? available data may give you clues on what bands are reasonable to use.

The fact that it is V4 would suggest that improvements do occur.
There many great and wonderful minds on here working to improve the uBITX.
For that I am thankful.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all.

Richard.

Mark, thank you!!!!!

This is weirdly white knuckle if you are a newbie...but i will wear down the problem.?

Thank you the assistance...

Don
km4udx

Hi Farhan, thanks for reply, obviously it is an honor for me to have your attention, thank you.

ofcourse it is possible to port it to other platforms,?

some months ago I worked on small audio processor based on Cortex M3 CPU stm32f103 it is?

extremely cheap module (less than 2 dollars), and I done first tests with filtering and simple noise reduction,

but it has not an efficient FPU and don't have a DSP hardware internal unit.?

Now using the Cortex M4, exactly the stm32f407 simple board ( the "china" price is less than 12 dollars shipped ),

I can test a more performed codes using standard opesource framework CMSIS to built a serious Noise Reduction.

I chose this hardware platform because it is very widespread and not tied to a particular vendor,?

because they are all arm cortex, so I can bring the same algorithm on Cortex M4 STM, but also Texas and so on.?

This allows to absolutely reduce the costs obtaining quality of industrial grade.

Currently I use the card stm32f407 (cost 12 dollars) a 320x200 display (cost 3 dollars) an encoder?

(cost $ 1.5) and a small circuit with 3 resistors and a capacitor (2 dollars). So a total cost less than 20 dollars.

These small cards are made to work very well with audio, implementing a Fir filter with the CMSIS platform is very simple and efficient.

The project will continue with the addition of a variable-width filter suitable for CW, SSB, digital modes and AM broadicast, hoping that the processor holds up the load.

Now I'm working to adjust the code readability then I'will share it as far as possible? on github as opensource like other projects.

I hope it can be useful. vy 73 de Giuseppe IK8YFW