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I’m not sure if you guys found the correct support for 3.2 or 3.5 or larger but I found the right files by searching. I can try to find the link if you’re having difficulty looking, but the right files are out there.?

Please excuse my ignorance but i am a complete newbie ,is the software available for use with the Nexion 3.5 inch screen as i can seem to find it for other screen sizes but not this one.The screen i have is the nx4832t035-_011.Many thanks.Brian

Yes, listened at 3PM EST (2000 GMT) and heard K0MBT calling CQ. We had nice chat, BitX40 to uBitX, about 843 miles. Times for the weekly 7277 Sunday meet are 3PM and 7PM local time, although that seems to translate to always Eastern time from what I hear.

=Vic=

What time was that in GMT?

my ubitix v.3.0 worked fine but since yesterday on the lcd i have only "ubitix and v.080" no more frequency !

Andy,

I've always used 450degF with my smd stuff and have never had a problem
soldering anything. I don't use a pointed tip but one with a small flat
on the end, a *very* small flat. Don't remember where I got it but it
works. The only problem with it is that when it gets hot it bends
easily so you have to be careful about the pressure you put on it.

tim ab0wr

On Sun, 25 Nov 2018 14:51:03 -0800
"AndyH" <ahecker@...> wrote:

I understand that heat's bad.? I'll have to try different tips as I
usually use a fine tip.? I usually dial back to about 600 °F when
soldering SMD.? I have a couple of recent successes hand-soldering
SI5351s.? The thing about this was that it had me doubting everything
except the real problem.? I was going nuts looking for cold joints,
broken end caps, copper foil glitches, and all the other usual stuff
like whiskers from RG173 but didn't even think to question that a 2.2
Ohm resistor that looked fine and tested fine could fail before a
transistor did.? But hey - I'm doing this to learn new things and I
can confirm that that's happening!

I've been desoldering 1205 and 0805 parts using the 'solder blob'
method.? I wonder if there's any benefit to the 'pronged' tips that
can reach around to both ends.? (That being said, I'd much rather not
have to remove parts.)

?One thing is not ripping everything up that?can be left alone.

That reminds me of this:

Hammer: ?$5



Knowing where to hit the machine with hammer: $4995

I can confirm that I'm not there yet.? hi hi

Thanks again for your help.? The radio seems to be capable of more
power on 40 and 20 after the re-work than right after I did the
initial mod.? I guess I'll keep it.? hi hi

Andy

On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 02:54 PM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:

I'm using one of the 12V outputs from an ATX power supply that literally came from the dump.? I was dropping off the garbage and noticed an old PC lying on the ground.? The power supply and CPU heatsink came off without any tools, so they came home to my junkbox.

Just to be sure about the noise, I hooked up an 11.7V Li ion battery (from a model plane) and it made no difference noise-wise.

It was an expensive-looking PC, so? maybe it had a better-than-average power supply.? The usual audio in PC's is 16 bits, which is ~85 dB dynamic range, so a premium PC that's going to get hooked up to a good stereo is going to want a pretty quiet power supply.

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Perfect time to get that Nickel spray and spray it around the shack so the solar winds don’t fry the front end of our xbitx’s.?

I understand that heat's bad.? I'll have to try different tips as I usually use a fine tip.? I usually dial back to about 600 °F when soldering SMD.? I have a couple of recent successes hand-soldering SI5351s.? The thing about this was that it had me doubting everything except the real problem.? I was going nuts looking for cold joints, broken end caps, copper foil glitches, and all the other usual stuff like whiskers from RG173 but didn't even think to question that a 2.2 Ohm resistor that looked fine and tested fine could fail before a transistor did.? But hey - I'm doing this to learn new things and I can confirm that that's happening!

I've been desoldering 1205 and 0805 parts using the 'solder blob' method.? I wonder if there's any benefit to the 'pronged' tips that can reach around to both ends.? (That being said, I'd much rather not have to remove parts.)

?One thing is not ripping everything up that?can be left alone.

That reminds me of this:

Hammer: ?$5

Knowing where to hit the machine with hammer: $4995

I can confirm that I'm not there yet.? hi hi

Thanks again for your help.? The radio seems to be capable of more power on 40 and 20 after the re-work than right after I did the initial mod.? I guess I'll keep it.? hi hi

Andy

On Sun, Nov 25, 2018 at 02:54 PM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:

Andyh,

The most common problem is a very hot iron and a pointy sharp tip. The very small tip
often means running higher heat so it can heat larger joints but one hot they maybe
too hot.? Also the excess?heat often causes the materialization at the end of the devices
to disintegrate if not outright cracking the part.

If people saw what I use they would likely faint.? My PES51 I usually have a .90"
tip in it, sometime the .125 wide and the second iron a older Wtcp-60 a larger .250 tip,
and its a 60W temp controlled iron!? Its handy as it makes heating both ends of a
1206 easy.?

Doesn't hurt I have a massive number of years experience with PACE, HAKKO,
and Weller servicing and building.? One thing is not ripping everything up that
can be left alone.

Allison

Hi Allison,

In other words we really can't put 10 pounds of balogna in a one pound sack.

73,

Bill KU8H

--
bark less - wag more

I had to read that twice. The first time I read it I thought you said your PES51 had a tip bent on a 90 degree angle!

Vince - K8ZW.

--
K8ZW

What did you use for the 1uF cap?

I have to ask what does that have to do with a metal or plastic cased radio?

We have been going though varying streams of solar wind for a long time and at most
we get geomagnetic storms and the bands get better or go quiet.

Note, its not a CME a very different thing.

Allison

On Sat, Nov 24, 2018 at 11:08 AM, Gwen Patton wrote:
This is the spray I used:?

Yes MG chemical super shield (spray nickel flake).? I've used it for making plastic cases
RF tight and turning plastic shapes and surfaces conductive enough to use as antennas.
When dry it runs about 1ohm per square inch which is fairly good conductance as well
as magnetic.

I'd not advise spraying it on clothes and using a respirator if one is nickle metal sensitive.
FYI definitely spray it outdoors.? Be careful as some plastics can be attached by the solvent
in the spray.

Allison

Seriously poor choice for battery.
It will be a short and very unhappy life for those cells.??

I'd consider 8 AA cells undersized!? On RX its around 150ma and TX??over 450ma
and peaks to 2.5A (some higher or lower) for the uBitx.? Most used a 7-9Ah gell
12V battery or 4ah (4000mah) or more LiFePo battery if weight is an issue.

The Bitx 40 will be better but still assume 80ma RX (analog version) and more for the
Raduino equipped on RX and TX at full power maybe 2A.

Allison

Andyh,

The most common problem is a very hot iron and a pointy sharp tip. The very small tip
often means running higher heat so it can heat larger joints but one hot they maybe
too hot.? Also the excess?heat often causes the materialization at the end of the devices
to disintegrate if not outright cracking the part.

If people saw what I use they would likely faint.? My PES51 I usually have a .90"
tip in it, sometime the .125 wide and the second iron a older Wtcp-60 a larger .250 tip,
and its a 60W temp controlled iron!? Its handy as it makes heating both ends of a
1206 easy.?

Doesn't hurt I have a massive number of years experience with PACE, HAKKO,
and Weller servicing and building.? One thing is not ripping everything up that
can be left alone.

Allison