Re: Shipping notification
EVENT CATEGORY
01 Mar 18 5:40 AM - Customs status updated - MELBOURNE,AUSTRALIA
Further Details -?Shipment has been given a release by Customs.
Next Steps -?Unless there is an adhoc exam or a stop by another regulatory authority the shipment will proceed to delivery
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There is a news article about Carl's
case on uBITx.net, but you are right, it should be discussed in
the enclosures page.? I will update the page shortly.
73 Mike ZL1AXG
On 1/03/18 4:17 AM, Neil Goldstein wrote:
Should we add Carl's
case to the ubitx.net enclosures section.
I purchased one of these, by the way, and the quality is
excellent!!
--Neil, W2NDG
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I'm glad that works for you.
But when concocting a recommended solution across thousands of rigs,
we'd best somehow make the rig survive an audio short to ground.? ?
Or this forum will getting traffic about fried TDA2822M's for years to come.
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On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 10:55 am, Thomas Sharka wrote:
I just wired the stereo jack as a mono jack. The signal goes to the tip and the ground goes to the sleeve. The ring isn't connected. Now when I plug in a pair of stereo headphones, I only get one channel, but if I plug in a mono jack, I get sound. When I swap plugs, the short never happens.
?
?
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Re-read this post:?? /g/BITX20/message/42723Adding a series 8 ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the uBitx board and your phone jack should? safely prevent any damage, though it will reduce the maximum available audio. Could be that 4 ohms is sufficient. ? Jerry
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 10:49 am, Walter wrote:
So what is the universal fix?? if a mono jack is plugged into a stereo jack on another electronic device it does not destroy the audio output of those devices.
How do they prevent damage on many other devices with stereo jacks?
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I just wired the stereo jack as a mono jack. The signal goes to the tip and the ground goes to the sleeve. The ring isn't connected. Now when I plug in a pair of stereo headphones, I only get one channel, but if I plug in a mono jack, I get sound. When I swap plugs, the short never happens. ?
On Wednesday, February 28, 2018 1:49 PM, Walter <W9KJO@...> wrote:
So what is the universal fix?? if a mono jack is plugged into a stereo jack on another electronic device it does not destroy the audio output of those devices.
How do they prevent damage on many other devices with stereo jacks?
--
73, W9KJO
Walter
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Mike, I left out the statement:? very clean lines and sweet looking in and out.? Good work.
Ron ? KJ4FFG
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So what is the universal fix?? if a mono jack is plugged into a stereo jack on another electronic device it does not destroy the audio output of those devices.
How do they prevent damage on many other devices with stereo jacks?
--
73, W9KJO
Walter
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Thank you very much for your comment Craig.
Mike, I intend to at least get the display mounted recessed back at a minimum of the thickness of the panel material.? Some good thoughts about what to use.
Thanks all,
Ron ? KJ4FFG
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Re: Completed radio and it is not working
OK so I got a new 7805, installed it and the rig is now working. The tuner is a little hinky but it works. I may look into a 10 turn pot down the road. The problem I have now is the audio is very low almos inaudible. I am hearing stations but very low volume. I have tried different speaker with no effect.
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Jerry, After re-reading your post I now see your point.? But I think it a lot less likely that someone would plug a mono plug into a mono to stereo adapter IMHO. Mike K5ESS ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 11:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] U1 fried ? I assume the mono to serial adapter would just short the mono signal to both stereo signals.
So you are back where you started, plugging a mono jack into that adapter will kill the TDA2822M.
Could work if you avoid this, but not foolproof.? And thus not suitable if I'm anywhere in the vicinity.
Might be better to add a series resistor inside the radio, and/or reduce the supply voltage to the TDA2822M
Jerry, KE7ER
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 09:22 am, K5ESS wrote: It appears at least a few folks have fried U1 by inserting a mono plug in the speaker jack and shorting out the audio.? I¡¯d recommend only wiring up the tip connection and not the ring and then using an external mono to serial adapter for your stereo phones. ?
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Yes the mono to stereo adapter does just short the mono signal to both stereo signals but that is not the problem.? The problem is when you insert a mono plug into the uBITX stereo jack it shorts the ring connection (and the output of U1) to ground.? If the ring connection is left open there will be no short when a mono plug is inserted. Mike K5ESS ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 11:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] U1 fried ? I assume the mono to serial adapter would just short the mono signal to both stereo signals.
So you are back where you started, plugging a mono jack into that adapter will kill the TDA2822M.
Could work if you avoid this, but not foolproof.? And thus not suitable if I'm anywhere in the vicinity.
Might be better to add a series resistor inside the radio, and/or reduce the supply voltage to the TDA2822M
Jerry, KE7ER
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 09:22 am, K5ESS wrote: It appears at least a few folks have fried U1 by inserting a mono plug in the speaker jack and shorting out the audio.? I¡¯d recommend only wiring up the tip connection and not the ring and then using an external mono to serial adapter for your stereo phones. ?
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I also trim spacers to length.? I bought a hundred ? inch aluminum 4-40 spacers which I cut a little longer than I need and then I chuck them in a drill press.? Using a file I can then trim them to within a couple of thousands of an inch.? Here¡¯s a couple of photos of the display installation on my incomplete uBITX. 
I cut the spacers a little short to have the display flush with the front panel so I had to add some washers to compensate. Mike K5ESS ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Michael Hagen
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 11:18 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] ubitx standoffs #parts? They are metric 3 mm.? So you have to use 3mm bolts those for the supplied spacers. Most places have plastic spacers too.? Get 4-40 size ones.? Un-threaded 0.096" or 0.1" and you can use #4 sheet metal screws or self thread 4-40 screws.? Check Mouser.? Or mail order surplus, like All Electronics. Buy long ones and cut them off to the length you need.?? The ACE and other local hardware stores have brass and Al. tubing for model making. K&M Metals or some name like that.? Al. , Brass, or Copper is easier to work with than steel. You could cut up spacer from them too.? Could even go to putting nuts at the other end? Our local ACE has a whole section of hardware, including Metric. ? 73's Mike WA6ISP ? ? On 2/28/2018 8:20 AM, R S via Groups.Io wrote: This Group is mighty nice.? I have enjoyed it tremendously for a while now and have learned from others here.? I have a question now.? I have installed my xbitx in an old junked Repeater Case, no testing yet, but I would like to have better choices with the standoffs for the board and display.? The display is a little too far in for my total liking.? Maybe you can see with pics.? Not finished yet.? What are the threads per inch (maybe 4-40) and so on?? I ordered some from Mouser but were surely not what I wanted and expected.? Any help is surely and greatly appreciated.
Ron
KJ4FFG
-- Mike Hagen, WA6ISP 10917 Bryant Street Yucaipa, Ca. 92399 (909) 918-0058 PayPal ID? "MotDog@..." Mike@...
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Ron,?
I like a lot of the cases I see used for BitXes, I really like this one and your choice of knobs and layout
Craig KM4YEC
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On Feb 28, 2018, at 11:20 AM, R S via Groups.Io < rons8@...> wrote:
This Group is mighty nice.? I have enjoyed it tremendously for a while now and have learned from others here.? I have a question now.? I have installed my xbitx in an old junked Repeater Case, no testing yet, but I would like to have better choices with the standoffs for the board and display.? The display is a little too far in for my total liking.? Maybe you can see with pics.? Not finished yet.? What are the threads per inch (maybe 4-40) and so on?? I ordered some from Mouser but were surely not what I wanted and expected.? Any help is surely and greatly appreciated.
Ron
KJ4FFG
<IMG_4796_1_.JPG><IMG_4797_1_.JPG>
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Thanks for the good info. I¡¯ll get going on the standoffs asap.
Thank you both,
On Wednesday, February 28, 2018, 12:17, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:
They are metric 3 mm.?
So you have to use 3mm bolts those for the supplied spacers.
Most places have
plastic spacers too.? Get 4-40 size ones.? Un-threaded 0.096"
or 0.1" and you can use #4 sheet metal screws or self thread
4-40 screws.? Check Mouser.? Or mail order surplus, like All
Electronics.
Buy long ones and cut
them off to the length you need.?? The ACE and other local
hardware stores have brass and Al. tubing for model making.
K&M Metals or some
name like that.? Al. , Brass, or Copper is easier to work with
than steel.
You could cut up
spacer from them too.? Could even go to putting nuts at the
other end?
Our local ACE has a
whole section of hardware, including Metric.
73's Mike WA6ISP
On 2/28/2018 8:20 AM, R S via Groups.Io
wrote:
This Group is
mighty nice.? I have enjoyed it tremendously for a while now and
have learned from others here.? I have a question now.? I have
installed my xbitx in an old junked Repeater Case, no testing yet,
but I would like to have better choices with the standoffs for the
board and display.? The display is a little too far in for my
total liking.? Maybe you can see with pics.? Not finished yet.?
What are the threads per inch (maybe 4-40) and so on?? I ordered
some from Mouser but were surely not what I wanted and expected.?
Any help is surely and greatly appreciated.
Ron
KJ4FFG
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
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Yes, the yellow wire is the full signal from the product detector. Check your volume potentiometer to ensure it¡¯s connected to the end (orange should be on middle lug). I would think your external amplifier has a capacitor input on it, so I don¡¯t think another cap is necessary. Check to see if DC is present across the volume pot when the side tone is activated.
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I assume the mono to serial adapter would just short the mono signal to both stereo signals.
So you are back where you started, plugging a mono jack into that adapter will kill the TDA2822M.
Could work if you avoid this, but not foolproof.? And thus not suitable if I'm anywhere in the vicinity.
Might be better to add a series resistor inside the radio, and/or reduce the supply voltage to the TDA2822M
Jerry, KE7ER
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 09:22 am, K5ESS wrote:
It appears at least a few folks have fried U1 by inserting a mono plug in the speaker jack and shorting out the audio.? I¡¯d recommend only wiring up the tip connection and not the ring and then using an external mono to serial adapter for your stereo phones.
?
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Re: Designing Maritime Radio
#bitx40
Hi Qonita,
You're quite welcome, and Jerry covered your question very nicely in his reply. ?
SSB is preferable for voice communications anyway: it's more efficient than AM (amplitude modulation) and uses less bandwidth to transmit the same information. I only mention it because radio services typically have regulations specifying the allowed modulation methods. If you're working on a theoretical project then this doesn't matter.
Good luck with your project!
Regards, Chris Brewer, AC9GN
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 10:31 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
There's a band-pass filter at L1, L2, L3, it is used during both transmit and receive.
You require a fairly broad passband,? but I suspect it will work fine across your 500khz.
As designed, it has input and output impedances of 50 ohms (though it likely sees a load of around 200 ohms at Q1).
I suggest you either simulate that filter in LTSpice or find some other software to model such filters,
and find new values for the inductors and capacitors such that it has a passband from 8.222 to 8.746 mhz.
Or you could just make all the capacitors smaller until you bring it to your operating frequency.
For initial testing (not when transmitting into an antenna) you could probably just short across this entire filter
with a wire, but you will now be receiving an image frequency and the transmitter may have extra outputs
at unexpected frequencies..
The low pass filter at L6, L7? allows through our 7.2mhz signal from the transmitter and blocks all harmonics
(at 14.4 mhz, 21.6 mhz, etc).? Again, would be best to obtain correct values for your operating frequency,
though simply decreasing the value of the the capacitors will probably be sufficient.
If this is not done correctly, you may wind up transmitting at frequencies other than what you intended.
This low pass filter is only used when transmitting, not when receiving.
Crystal filter should be fine, leave it at 12mhz.??
If that is not clear, then you need to read up about superhetrodyne receivers before proceeding with
your hacks to the Bitx40, perhaps in one of the excellent amateur radio publications such as
the ARRL Handbook, RSGB Handbook,? or Experimental Methods in RF Design.
There is likely something similar available in most other major languages.
Up to date firmware for the Bitx40 can be found here:
? ??
either "bitx40" (simpler hardware mods)? or "bitx40-raduino-v2" (allows the bfo to be varied)
Adjusting the tuning range in that software should be a matter of changing a few numbers,
folks in this forum could probably help if you get stumped by this.
You will also need to download the Arduino IDE to a host computer, use that to load
your new firmware into the Nano processor embedded in the Bitx40.
Should be a fun and educational project!
Hope that helps.
Jerry, KE7ER
On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 07:42 am, <qonita.salimah@...> wrote:
There is no requirement for the modulation itself, I think SSB is good enough and suitable for my project. Did one RF-Front End circuit work for both transmit and receive system?
What about the Crystal Filter Circuit, should I make change on the circuit? Did the Crystal Circuit aim is for keeping the IF Frequency fixed tuning in 12 MHz??
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It appears at least a few folks have fried U1 by inserting a mono plug in the speaker jack and shorting out the audio.? I¡¯d recommend only wiring up the tip connection and not the ring and then using an external mono to serial adapter for your stereo phones. Mike K5ESS ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Walter
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2018 6:16 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] U1 fried ? On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 04:08 am, DrZ wrote: Last night while trying various speakers, smoke started rolling out of my uBitx. ?The audio IC U1 was fried. ?I'm assuming the audio line shorted while inserting plugs. ?They are cheap (5 for $6) and I'll install a socket for easy replacement. ?But a word of warning.....
Howard K4LXY i Noticed the volume switch has an on/off switch built into it.? perhaps I will connect this in line with the speaker jack and turn it off before plugging and unpluggings speakers and stuff.
?
--
73, W9KJO
Walter
|
They are metric 3 mm.?
So you have to use 3mm bolts those for the supplied spacers.
Most places have
plastic spacers too.? Get 4-40 size ones.? Un-threaded 0.096"
or 0.1" and you can use #4 sheet metal screws or self thread
4-40 screws.? Check Mouser.? Or mail order surplus, like All
Electronics.
Buy long ones and cut
them off to the length you need.?? The ACE and other local
hardware stores have brass and Al. tubing for model making.
K&M Metals or some
name like that.? Al. , Brass, or Copper is easier to work with
than steel.
You could cut up
spacer from them too.? Could even go to putting nuts at the
other end?
Our local ACE has a
whole section of hardware, including Metric.
73's Mike WA6ISP
On 2/28/2018 8:20 AM, R S via Groups.Io
wrote:
This Group is
mighty nice.? I have enjoyed it tremendously for a while now and
have learned from others here.? I have a question now.? I have
installed my xbitx in an old junked Repeater Case, no testing yet,
but I would like to have better choices with the standoffs for the
board and display.? The display is a little too far in for my
total liking.? Maybe you can see with pics.? Not finished yet.?
What are the threads per inch (maybe 4-40) and so on?? I ordered
some from Mouser but were surely not what I wanted and expected.?
Any help is surely and greatly appreciated.
Ron
KJ4FFG
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
 On Wed, Feb 28, 2018 at 07:01 am, Richie Chambless wrote:
Hello Walter,
I have been doing some work around this same subject. You can take the low-level audio signal to an external amplifier by connecting the signal in to Vol-H (R170). This is the yellow wire coming off of the audio connector (diagram on HF Signals is incorrect). You can also reduce the headphone volume by inserting two small value resistors (under 100 ohm) in series with the output of the audio amp. Do this by connecting the output of the amp to pins 4&5 of the headphone jack. Now put the resistors across pins 1&2. I hope that makes sense! Google the Realistic DX-160 schematic to see what I¡¯m talking about.
Are you talking about something like this? Would the Yellow wire signal act kind of like a line out at a constant level?? Does it need a cap to isolate the line from the device plugged into that line? I think it may not be true line level but a constant output level.? The signal link has a control to manage the level. I am not an EE but still trying to learn and figure out a good way to get this done. Thanks ? -- 73, W9KJO Walter
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Craig Thibodeaux