Re: My ?BITX in its new home
Sorry, I should've been more clear. I know the shaft size, what size knob (outside diameter) were you looking for?
Vince.
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On 01/09/2018 12:33 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io wrote: The ?BITX volume control knob is 3mm rather than the standard 6mm (or
1/4"). However, even the 3mm knob I have seems wobbly...it may not
actually be metic, but a 1/8" knob.
Jack, W8TEE
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*From:* Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>
*To:* [email protected]
*Sent:* Tuesday, January 9, 2018 12:27 PM
*Subject:* Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
What diameter knob are you guys looking for?
Vince.
On 01/09/2018 11:36 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote:
Nope. I couldn't find one either. I've taken a knob for a 1/4" shaft,
some 1/4" diameter Nylon rod, drilled the center out of the rod, drilled
a hole in the side of the rod big enough to pass the set screw and cut
the rod to length so it remains flush with the bottom of the hole in the
knob. Run the set screw down far enough to hold it in place until you
get ready to mount it on the pot shaft. Usually you will have to cut
the shaft of the supplied pot to the right length as well. Caveat, make
sure you don't cut the shaft too short - LOL Fortunately that happened
on something else long ago and I haven't forgotten the lesson.
Jim - W0EB
------ Original Message ------
From: "Jack Purdum via Groups.Io" <jjpurdum@... <mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:jjpurdum@... <mailto:[email protected]>>>
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> <mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: 1/9/2018 10:26:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
. BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for
the small volume control?
Jack, W8TEE
--
Michigan VHF Corp. <>
<>
<>
<>
Virus-free. www.avast.com
<>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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Re: My ?BITX in its new home
The ?BITX volume control knob is 3mm rather than the standard 6mm (or 1/4"). However, even the 3mm knob I have seems wobbly...it may not actually be metic, but a 1/8" knob.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
What diameter knob are you guys looking for? Vince. On 01/09/2018 11:36 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote: > Nope.? I couldn't find one either.? I've taken a knob for a 1/4" shaft, > some 1/4" diameter Nylon rod, drilled the center out of the rod, drilled > a hole in the side of the rod big enough to pass the set screw and cut > the rod to length so it remains flush with the bottom of the hole in the > knob.? Run the set screw down far enough to hold it in place until you > get ready to mount it on the pot shaft.? Usually you will have to cut > the shaft of the supplied pot to the right length as well.? Caveat, make > sure you don't cut the shaft too short - LOL? Fortunately that happened > on something else long ago and I haven't forgotten the lesson. > > Jim - W0EB > > ------ Original Message ------ > From: "Jack Purdum via Groups.Io" <jjpurdum= [email protected]> <mailto:jjpurdum= [email protected]>> > To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> > Sent: 1/9/2018 10:26:55 AM > Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home >> > >> . BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for >> the small volume control? >> >> Jack, W8TEE >> >> >> > -- ? Michigan VHF Corp.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Re: My ?BITX in its new home
In a previous post Vince found this pot with a much more common shaft ? /g/BITX20/message/37750I've have one on the way but USPS decided I was in no hurry to get it.
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Re: Implement a uBITX Memory Manager Program
Thanks! I'm getting cat control timeouts trying to use wsjt-t and fldigi. I did the capacitor reset mod to the arduino but still have issues. Winlink works perfect though? Using both Ubuntu and Windows 10.
Pete
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Re: My ?BITX in its new home
What diameter knob are you guys looking for?
Vince.
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Show quoted text
On 01/09/2018 11:36 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote: Nope. I couldn't find one either. I've taken a knob for a 1/4" shaft,
some 1/4" diameter Nylon rod, drilled the center out of the rod, drilled
a hole in the side of the rod big enough to pass the set screw and cut
the rod to length so it remains flush with the bottom of the hole in the
knob. Run the set screw down far enough to hold it in place until you
get ready to mount it on the pot shaft. Usually you will have to cut
the shaft of the supplied pot to the right length as well. Caveat, make
sure you don't cut the shaft too short - LOL Fortunately that happened
on something else long ago and I haven't forgotten the lesson.
Jim - W0EB
------ Original Message ------
From: "Jack Purdum via Groups.Io" <jjpurdum@...
<mailto:jjpurdum@...>>
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: 1/9/2018 10:26:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
. BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for
the small volume control?
Jack, W8TEE
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
|
Re: Implement a uBITX Memory Manager Program
Pete
The source code and how to use it are listed below.
and?I briefly explained it in another post. /g/BITX20/topic/sharing_codes_and_method_for/7992617?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,7992617
The uBITX manager program will push to github next week.
Ian KD8CEC
Hi Ian,
Can I get a copy of your code to test? I tried your github ?but I don't think its up to date.
Thanks!
Pete
KI6SSI
-- Best 73 KD8CEC / Ph.D ian lee kd8cec@...
(my blog)
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Re: Implement a uBITX Memory Manager Program
Hi Ian,
Can I get a copy of your code to test? I tried your github https://github.com/phdlee/ubitx/?but I don't think its up to date.
Thanks!
Pete
KI6SSI
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Re: My ?BITX in its new home
My temporary fix was to take a piece of wood (from a #2 pencil, actually) and cut a piece of wood using an Xacto knife to fit in the "half-shaft" of the control. I then placed heat shrink over it and heated it. Then I put the knob on. It's still shaky, but better than nothing. Your fix is much better. I need to invest in a small drill press!
Jack, W8TEE
From: Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
Nope. ?I couldn't find one either. ?I've taken a knob for a 1/4" shaft, some 1/4" diameter Nylon rod, drilled the center out of the rod, drilled a hole in the side of the rod big enough to pass the set screw and cut the rod to length so it remains flush with the bottom of the hole in the knob. ?Run the set screw down far enough to hold it in place until you get ready to mount it on the pot shaft. ?Usually you will have to cut the shaft of the supplied pot to the right length as well. ?Caveat, make sure you don't cut the shaft too short - LOL ?Fortunately that happened on something else long ago and I haven't forgotten the lesson.
Jim - W0EB
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 1/9/2018 10:26:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
. BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for the small volume control?
Jack, W8TEE
|
Re: My ?BITX in its new home
Nope. ?I couldn't find one either. ?I've taken a knob for a 1/4" shaft, some 1/4" diameter Nylon rod, drilled the center out of the rod, drilled a hole in the side of the rod big enough to pass the set screw and cut the rod to length so it remains flush with the bottom of the hole in the knob. ?Run the set screw down far enough to hold it in place until you get ready to mount it on the pot shaft. ?Usually you will have to cut the shaft of the supplied pot to the right length as well. ?Caveat, make sure you don't cut the shaft too short - LOL ?Fortunately that happened on something else long ago and I haven't forgotten the lesson.
Jim - W0EB
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 1/9/2018 10:26:55 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
. BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for the small volume control?
Jack, W8TEE
|
Re: My ?BITX in its new home
Nice! I have a member in my club who has a machine that makes signs out of Plexiglass. He can carve "mirror image" letters on the "inside" of a sign. I though I might get him to do a clear Plexiglass front panel with the controls ID'ed from the back side. I'd still have to figure out some what of masking the display. BTW, am I the only person finding it difficult to find a knob for the small volume control?
Jack, W8TEE
From: Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
Hi Jack et al, I'm lucky in that due to a small business I have making "Dot Stabilizers" to take the scratchy keying out of semi-automatic keys (Bugs), I have a small bench-top milling machine. ?Once I got some clamps made to hold the workpiece square with the edge of the X-Y table, I just use a block of wood under the piece and clamp everything to the table. ?I get it square and then make sure the clamps are tight enough that it can't move under the cutting pressure from the bit. ?Then it's a simple matter of following the layout lines.
I usually make the opening just the size of the actual lit part of the display and using standoffs I mount the display flush with the rear of the front panel. ?
During the layout, I locate the 4 mounting holes for the display and drill them. ?I then screw the panel to the wood block and square that up with the edge of the table. ?Once I have the cutout milled, I touch it up with a flat file to take out any minor flaws and countersink the 4 mounting holes to take flat head screws flush with the panel (or even a little deeper). ?I use flat head screws and mount the 4 display mounting standoffs tight to the panel and use "Loc-Tite" to make sure they don't loosen up. ?I buy Lexan, stick on bezels from a company called Seetron that sells them on eBay, 3 for $12.00 US. ?They cover the mounting screws and provide a black bordered, clear Lexan window over the display for really good protection.
Shown below is an example (my uBITX in it's home, a 4SQRP.com "Large" enclosure designed by AA0ZZ and made from PC board material. ?The color is already silkscreened on the material when you get it.
Jim, W0EB
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 1/9/2018 8:19:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
I have a bezel and knobs coming, but this is what it looks like so far:
The cutout process varies according to the panel material. For plastic, first I draw and outline of the LCD and then I drill 4 holes at the corners, but inside the lcd cutout you've drawn. I then put a T-square to align with the line drawn along one edge of the cutout. I then put the panel and T-square in a vice and saw along the line, relying on the T-square to prevent me from "coloring outside the lines". After I've made the cut, a few passes with a file and that edge is done. Rotate and repeat. If it's metal, I align with the jaws of the vice with the LCD outline and drill a series of small holes. I then use a hacksaw blade to cut the line and finish with a file. The Dremel would probably work wonders here instead of the file.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
Doug KD9CYF wrote...
> Care to share your technique?
My uBITXs should show up any day now! On my BITX40, I
used a cutting wheel in a rotary tool, cutting the opening
slightly undersize, and then used a file to even it up
a bit and make it large enough. It worked well, but I won't
know until the next one if I just got lucky or if it will
be easy every time. I don't have any bezels.
--
73 Keith VE7GDH
|
I found this black anodized aluminum case that fits the uBitx.
It is a lit too deep but I'll use the empty space for batteries or?
a PA. Only problem there is a trace along the edge of the board
I have to insulate it, maybe with Kapton tape. The board slide
in the internal side slots. About $45,
I uploaded the picture in the photos folder (NU6I)
-- 73, Yvon NU6I
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Re: uBitx with first mod and question
Looks great!!!
Vince.
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On 01/09/2018 08:52 AM, KD8CGH wrote: Here is my uBitx after first mods. I added a Sotabeams CW audio fiilter.
The old TR switch now controls the filter. Down is the original wide
SSB, middle is the normal CW and top is narrow CW. The right light is
spot indicator controlled by the CW filter and lights when you are well
tuned. Unfortunately adding the filter (goes before final AF amp)
raised the receiver noise. I'm working on shielding to restore the
original performance. Suggestions would be appreciated.
It still needs anti pop, a better bezel, ...
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
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Re: My ?BITX in its new home
Instead of the dremel, I opted for a full machine shop (lathe, mill, surface grinder, drill press, welders, ...).
Vince.
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On 01/09/2018 05:03 AM, David Wilcox via Groups.Io wrote: Don't all home brewers have a Dremel tool with an assortment of cutting blades and grinding bits to smooth out the rough edges. I couldn't live without them. I use mine for home repairs, car repairs and everything radio. I first discovered their utility in my medical practice. I had many elderly patients with bunions, callouses and thick toe nails that interfered with foot health and comfort. Many of them couldn't afford to see the podiatrist so I set up a vacuum cleaner that the patient held in place and while we were kibitzing I ground away with my Dremel..... Made some friends and had some fun. When I retired I had four Dremels and many different grinding tools. Had to buy a cutting wheel or two for the radio room. Thought everyone would get a laugh from this. (I started out as a country GP and had to do it all. There were no specialists close.)
Dave K8WPE
On Jan 9, 2018, at 2:54 AM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
Doug KD9CYF wrote...
Care to share your technique? My uBITXs should show up any day now! On my BITX40, I
used a cutting wheel in a rotary tool, cutting the opening
slightly undersize, and then used a file to even it up
a bit and make it large enough. It worked well, but I won't
know until the next one if I just got lucky or if it will
be easy every time. I don't have any bezels.
--
73 Keith VE7GDH
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
|
Re: My ?BITX in its new home
Hi Jack et al, I'm lucky in that due to a small business I have making "Dot Stabilizers" to take the scratchy keying out of semi-automatic keys (Bugs), I have a small bench-top milling machine. ?Once I got some clamps made to hold the workpiece square with the edge of the X-Y table, I just use a block of wood under the piece and clamp everything to the table. ?I get it square and then make sure the clamps are tight enough that it can't move under the cutting pressure from the bit. ?Then it's a simple matter of following the layout lines.
I usually make the opening just the size of the actual lit part of the display and using standoffs I mount the display flush with the rear of the front panel. ?
During the layout, I locate the 4 mounting holes for the display and drill them. ?I then screw the panel to the wood block and square that up with the edge of the table. ?Once I have the cutout milled, I touch it up with a flat file to take out any minor flaws and countersink the 4 mounting holes to take flat head screws flush with the panel (or even a little deeper). ?I use flat head screws and mount the 4 display mounting standoffs tight to the panel and use "Loc-Tite" to make sure they don't loosen up. ?I buy Lexan, stick on bezels from a company called Seetron that sells them on eBay, 3 for $12.00 US. ?They cover the mounting screws and provide a black bordered, clear Lexan window over the display for really good protection.
Shown below is an example (my uBITX in it's home, a 4SQRP.com "Large" enclosure designed by AA0ZZ and made from PC board material. ?The color is already silkscreened on the material when you get it.
Jim, W0EB
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 1/9/2018 8:19:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
I have a bezel and knobs coming, but this is what it looks like so far:
The cutout process varies according to the panel material. For plastic, first I draw and outline of the LCD and then I drill 4 holes at the corners, but inside the lcd cutout you've drawn. I then put a T-square to align with the line drawn along one edge of the cutout. I then put the panel and T-square in a vice and saw along the line, relying on the T-square to prevent me from "coloring outside the lines". After I've made the cut, a few passes with a file and that edge is done. Rotate and repeat. If it's metal, I align with the jaws of the vice with the LCD outline and drill a series of small holes. I then use a hacksaw blade to cut the line and finish with a file. The Dremel would probably work wonders here instead of the file.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] My ?BITX in its new home
Doug KD9CYF wrote...
> Care to share your technique?
My uBITXs should show up any day now! On my BITX40, I
used a cutting wheel in a rotary tool, cutting the opening
slightly undersize, and then used a file to even it up
a bit and make it large enough. It worked well, but I won't
know until the next one if I just got lucky or if it will
be easy every time. I don't have any bezels.
--
73 Keith VE7GDH
|
Those rings are to
center the jack in a hole on a metal panel.? So you would
drill the metal panel with that hole size.
On a 1/16" they can only
be 1/32" extended, so the Jack can be tightend.
Of course in Plastic,
you don't care about shorts.? You could leave them on and ream
out the holes a bit?
Mike, WA6ISP
On 1/9/2018 7:07 AM, Michael Babineau
wrote:
Bill :?
These jacks normally have a little raised plastic collar as part
of the molded plastic body. This seems to be the problem as it
prevents
the jack body from sitting flush against the panel. This collar is
about 1mm thick. I found that carefully
cutting it away with an exacto knife give you the added length for
the jack to protrude far enough through the opening?
to screw on the ring to secure it, when using the Excellway case.
?
Removing this plastic collar doesn't seem to have any major effect
on the structural integrity of the jack.
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB?
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
|
Bill :?
These jacks normally have a little raised plastic collar as part of the molded plastic body. This seems to be the problem as it prevents
the jack body from sitting flush against the panel. This collar is about 1mm thick. I found that carefully
cutting it away with an exacto knife give you the added length for the jack to protrude far enough through the opening?
to screw on the ring to secure it, when using the Excellway case. ?
Removing this plastic collar doesn't seem to have any major effect on the structural integrity of the jack.
Cheers
Michael VE3WMB?
|
So commercial microphones vary in their schematics, but if you look it up and figure out how to get most closely to the electret part it should work fine. ? Some and some radio frequency bypassing circuitry, and some adid some audio filtering.
Sent from my iPhone
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I intend to set mine up with an HT speaker mic connector and play with a few of those to see how they work
Art
K0KUK
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I intend to set mine up with an HT speaker mic connector and play with a few of those to see how they work Art K0KUK
On 9 Jan 2018 8:39 am, "Craig Wadsworth" < cwadsworth@...> wrote: Has anyone tried a Yaesu (Vertex Standard) MH-31 microphone with the uBitX or BitX40?? Work well?? Smoke? Other?
Thanks,
Craig
w9ctw
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Re: uBitx with first mod and question
More info on the mod. I added wires:
? from the volume wiper to the rotary center.
? from rotary position 1 to Audio connector (original wiper destination)?
? rotary 2 & 3 to AF filter in
? AF filter out to tie point at rotary rotary 1 (back to Audio connector)
I tried replacing the wires with shielded mono audio cable with one end of shields tied together and grounded but it didn't help.
The filter itself is on a perfboad mounted to the right edge of the speaker so it is also very near the Raduino.
Any suggestions on next thing to try?
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Re: uBitx with first mod and question
I'm well familiar with the Heathkit? Twoer "Benton Harbor Lunchbox". I built one a in Junior High school shop many decades ago. It disappeared from my life over the years.
This Sixer was not only dead but decomposed. Although I could scrub off the case, it's insides were covered in some kind of corrosion that didn't just come off.
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Jim Sheldon
Art Howard
Bob Benedict, KD8CGH