--

This was a great stereo diagram for an earlier build.?

73, Guy N7BIR

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Pretty amazing feeling when you get a QSO on such equipment. All the credit might belong to the guy at the other end with enormous ears, but I’ll take it!

I also got Hawaii from Nevada this morning. I am running a LDG pro 2 tunner behind my Bitx 40 as well though.?

KI7LOA

am still on freq

heard you in western PA , sri i tried to call back but the delay was too long...

you were 4x3.... quite light....

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Yay you indeed! ?Nice contact!

Good practice for noob's.

It should force them to look at the board and measure
where those connections to Q6 are really going. Hi.

john
AD5YE

The drive to the final amp is probably too high.

The easiest way to adjust that is to leave the mike drive as it is,
and lower the drive to the 2N2219A via R136. This automatically lowers
the IRF410 output and hence the input to the final amp.

john
AD5YE

Anyone notice? Farhan's diagram has Q6's Earth symbol hanging disconnected nearby :)

Francesca, you've managed to slow the tuning rate by resistors? If true, I/we'd like to know how: which value from where to where?? I'd like to slow the 'gallop' at each end of the directly-controlled range (to more of a 'jog'?), and preferably without delving into the progamming. The transition to 'gallop' is too sudden: a slower rate of 'gallop' would be far more pleasant - or perhaps a graduated change? Maybe that's beyond hardware - any programmer/s interested?

Lower mic gain when driving an Amp? That's odd - it shouldn't matter whether driving an amp or antenna. Are you overdriving? 'barefoot'? No reports of that yet on a stock-standard rig, more often a need for more gain ... Power Mic too much?

Hopefully helpfully,
73 de ZL2DEX.

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Ryan W7RLF wrote...

I pulled the relay, but I think I broke it while
desoldering it. Desoldering braid stinks, as does
removing relays from boards.

I'm a newbie with a hot air soldering station, but I
think you would find it a lot easier to remove relays
using one compared to a soldering iron and wick. With
the hot air tool, you can wave it around and heat all
of the pins up at the same time. You can go back after
with the iron and some wick to remove excess solder
to get it ready for the replacement. I think wick
does do a good job of soaking up solder when the part
has been removed, but it just doesn't seem to get 100%
of it while the part is still in place.

I didn't have the hot air tool when I replaced Q14
and Q13 (probably not needed!) but did have it when
I removed C91 & C92 with it (still only outputting 2W
though) and was a cinch, but they were SMD parts
and not a relay! I did remove some through-hole
parts from a board for a friend and I think it
would have been all but impossible to do a good job
without the hot air tool.

On the SMD practice board that I have, I made a mess
of installing some tiny LEDs. I think they are 0402
size but the pads are 0805. The biggest problem was
that I probably put too much solder paste on the board
and the LEDs floated up to the top when the solder melted.
It was a real confidence builder later when the 8 and
16 pin ICs and the transistors (same size as on the BITX)
were easy to install.

Good luck with the rest of your troubleshooting!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Ordered 16 Aug via India post. Arrived Kentucky 26 Aug.

Now to make time to assemble

-John