Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- BITX20
- Messages
Search
Re: Allard's Version 1.113
That is v1.13.
"Sketch uses 30,936 bytes (100%) of program space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.? Global variables use 1526 bytes (74%) of dynamic memory, leaving 522 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes." Just compiled v1.14 and that compiles nicely, no problem. Using IDE v1.6.9 David KG7WFM |
Re: Raduino_v1.14 released
Should work fine, and not a bad idea.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you can't find 100k, could use a 10k pot between ground and the Arduino 5v digital CW transmit output, center wiper of pot goes on out to the 10k series fixed resistor that you already have. On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 08:46 am, Al Duncan VE3RRD wrote: I was just thinking about the comment on using the CW TX mode during antenna tuner adjustment and having to limit the key-down time. Previously you had used a 47K series resistor in the circuit to unbalance the modulator, this was reduced to 10K because the output power was low for many Bitx40 boards. A DPDT tune switch could be used, one half of which would insert an additional resistor in series with the 10K to Raduino D6 to reduce output power to 1 or 2W while the other half of the switch would key up the transmitter in CW mode. Possibly a trim-pot of a large enough value (100K ?) could be used for the additional resistor so the tune power could be set to the desired output power level. ? |
Re: Raduino_v1.14 released
I was just thinking about the comment on using the CW TX mode during antenna tuner adjustment and having to limit the key-down time. Previously you had used a 47K series resistor in the circuit to unbalance the modulator, this was reduced to 10K because the output power was low for many Bitx40 boards. A DPDT tune switch could be used, one half of which would insert an additional resistor in series with the 10K to Raduino D6 to reduce output power to 1 or 2W while the other half of the switch would key up the transmitter in CW mode. Possibly a trim-pot of a large enough value (100K ?) could be used for the additional resistor so the tune power could be set to the desired output power level.
I haven't tried it yet, but does this sound like it would work? 73, AL VE3RRD |
Re: Struggling with tuning clicks and birdie sounds
If the BitX is not connected to an antenna, tuning clicks are very noticeable. When connected to a 40m antenna they,for all practical purposes, disappear. Willy W1LY? On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 7:39 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote: It seems there is a huge variability between various BITX40 radios, and |
Re: Tuning potentiometer too long to be fitted
Remember to hold the pot shaft end (the part your cutting off) in the vise, NOT the body of the pot.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You don't want to put that kind of pressure on the pot. Mike, WA6ISP On 6/7/2017 6:42 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
So will a pneumatic cut-off tool!A hacksaw will fix that problem.Vince. |
Re: FLDIGI PTT circuit
I'd certainly fix D7 and C130, could still be the problem. ?But having it suddenly work when a meter is added from gate to ground suggests the 820k at R1 in the FLDIGI PTT circuit is not doing its job. ?Is it soldered in properly? ?Is it really 820k or less? ?Try a 100k resistor instead of (or in parallel with) the 820k.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have an issue with mechanical relays, for low power levels a conservative design with semiconductors is usually cheaper and more reliable. ?I'm currently thinking hard about how to cheaply do T/R switching of the antenna at 50W or less without relays. ?All the other relays of the Bitx40 are easily done away with. Jerry, KE7ER On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 07:00 am, Mike KM4VKR wrote: That sounds like a good theory. I was aware of the issue with D7 and C130 and thought that might be the problem. It seems like the problem doesn't occur when I have the meter attached. At this point I'm just going to modify the circuit so that it actuates a relay. Thanks for the help. ? |
Re: FLDIGI PTT circuit
That sounds like a good theory. I was aware of the issue with D7 and C130 and thought that might be the problem. It seems like the problem doesn't occur when I have the meter attached. At this point I'm just going to modify the circuit so that it actuates a relay. Thanks for the help.
|
Re: VU2ESE Agc circuit
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýFollow up: Ok, the 5-2-2017 revised schematic in the wiki makes it clear where to put the agc circuit (instead of just audio in & audio out. "splain it to me like I'm 5 please") Built per the schematic(ignoring the photo in the mod blog) and put where it is actually supposed to be, the sound actually gets thru!!!! [I do not understand this electronics stuff... sigh..] There was a buzz but I had alligator clip wires all over the place, so forgiving that.? Will try the vk3ye one, sounds like there are a large variety of LDRs.. so results may vary? Did try the anti hiss mod in the "tips and mods" with 'NOTE:?NOT Bitx40 schematic', with 0.01 and 10k from pin 5 to pin 8 of the lm386, but it did not work for me and added a loud 10k hz tone. Sent from my iPad |
Re: Struggling with tuning clicks and birdie sounds
It seems there is a huge variability between various BITX40 radios, and
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
there are various points where improvements may help. In my particular case, I achieved the greatest tuning click reduction just by using shielded wires to and from the volume potentiometer. 73 Allard PE1NWL wOn Wed, June 7, 2017 12:07, DJ4MU wrote: I already have the 100nF across wiper -ground on both sides of the Tuning |
Re: uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX
Jack Purdum
I recently purchased the LCR-T5 test meter (eBay #142169115833) and am very pleased with its results. I build a lot of projects and, when you're two years younger than dirt, reading those cap numbers is almost impossible. Chokes and inductors are also easily read, as well as diodes, transistors, and other devices. It's saved me some grief as recently as last week when an axial inductor was bad. Measuring before you put it in the circuit takes a few extra seconds, but enhances the odds I'll still have hair when the project is done. Jack, W8TEE From: Mvs Sarma <mvssarma@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, June 7, 2017 5:02 AM Subject: Re: [BITX20] uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX It is OK Lawrence Galea for people on the habit of electronics assembly etc. For others, things might appear rather difficult.? On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 12:58 PM, Lawrence Galea <9h1avlaw@...> wrote:
-- Regards
Sarma ? |
Re: Struggling with tuning clicks and birdie sounds
I already have the 100nF across wiper -ground on both sides of the Tuning Pot connection, as well as the 56ohm and bypass capacitor 1000uF and 100nF in the feed line of the Raduino 5v regulator as suggested in various posts. so you suggest those noises still come from power supply line of Raduino? can that be measured with oscilloscope?? 73 Philipp DJ4MU |
Re: uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX
Hello Sarma, I understand that people new to electronics may find it difficult to solder smd components and wind coils, but they have to try to do it.Once they try they will find it easier than they ever thought. 1206 size should present no problem and should be similar to soldering normal components with leads. As an old timer (licensed March 1967, 50 years ago) I was used to valves and big components, but when I tried smd soldering I did not find any difficulty at all and I have also soldered 0603 components. What you need is a soldering iron with a pencil bit and a good magnifying glass apart from a steady hand. Placing components on the board is also not difficult. You can use a toothpick, dip the end of the toothpick in a glue stick (the glue stick used to stick paper together) and once you touch the component it will stick to the toothpick, place the component on the pcb and touch one end of the component and board with the soldering iron. Usually there is enough solder on the tinned board to solder the component initially, but if not just put a tiny amount of solder before you put the component on the board. Solder one end making sure that the component is in its proper place and then solder the other end. You can also use pincers to put the component on the board or even slide it on the board. One thing you should do is use some sort of container to hold the pcb because you can be certain that some component will fly off into outer space and will never be found. I agree that you should have some sort of LC meter to check the components and also other instruments if you can afford it, but?winding the specified number of turns on the specified form should be close enough, although fine tuning can always be made for peak performance. To those who are afraid to try just do it and see how easier it is than you ever thought. As the saying goes, an ounce of practice is worth a ton of theory. Go on and have fun. Regards? Lawrence On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:02 AM, Mvs Sarma <mvssarma@...> wrote:
|
to navigate to use esc to dismiss