Re: Calling all Midwesterners.
N0BHC, Bob, Savage MN,
EN34hs
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My built Bitx40 raduino for sale
Hello everyone!
Since I've moved on to an all band SDR qrp rig I've decided to offer up my built up Bitx40 with raduino. The rig is built into a sheilded Hammond enclosure, is running Allard's firmware with CW and other features enabled. The front panel has a ten turn tuning pot, function and tune buttons, volume, mic and headphone jacks. The back panel has the antenna connector and fuse holder. Includes a modified RadioShack mini speaker microphone originally used with the htx202. Puts out 5w on 13.8v. I've uploaded photos to the group under the W1NCR folder.
I'm asking $120 shipped within the USA.
Noel, W1NCR
Noelacramos@...
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Our groups Raduino Rock Star Allard has put together a package for us, read the instructions. Hear is the link.
https://github.com/amunters/bitx40
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Hi everyone I was wondering if theres a way to switch between lsb and usb so I cam talk and or do digi modes
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I'm not talking about pins from ebay. If you bought them on ebay, you use 'em.
Vince.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 06/08/2017 09:02 PM, Michael Hagen wrote: Good, you clip the edges of each pin, its fun, you can have all the ones
I bought on eBay.
On 6/8/2017 5:51 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
When they provide a datasheet, you ignore the picture. Do you think
the 2 pin connectors look like the picture?
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 07:45 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Did you see the picture. I have had to throw away ones like that.
They are made for automated equipment that shears off the sides.
I have had lots of them, they stink. If you don't cut perfect they are
too wide to go in for insertion.
There drawing may show them in finished ready to use condition. But if
they come connected side by side they are a big pain.
Real Molex from Mouser, you won't have the problem. They break off on
the end, or better yet, buy them loose.
They are about $3.20 per Hundred.
But you can save a lot of money buying the actual connectors from Taya.
I just got a few hundred last week, the seem OK, but are not exactly
like the Molex. The Molex pins fit them.
Mike, WA6ISP
On 6/8/2017 1:15 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Did you look at the actual datasheet? They break off from the top.
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 03:11 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Tayda has good connectors, but I would not buy their pins if they look
like their picture!
Beware of the pins that look like this! You have to cut them flush on
the sides where they slide in.
I have used them, very troublesome.
Either buy them "Loose" (ready) or if connect together they break
off on
the end, not the sides.
On 6/8/2017 11:11 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Is that the same as these? (note: they use the same pic for all of
them)
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 01:47 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Mouser Crimp Term 22-30 Ga. by Molex
# 538-08-50-0114
On 6/8/2017 10:24 AM, bwbangerter via Groups.Io wrote:
I would like to obtain a few female pins for the connector bodies
used
with the bitx40. But I do not recognize these connectors. It
would
be useful to make up shielded cables for some of the
connections, and
to make connections without splicing wires. Can anyone tell me
what
to order?
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
|
Good, you clip the edges of each pin, its fun, you can have all the ones I bought on eBay.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 6/8/2017 5:51 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
When they provide a datasheet, you ignore the picture. Do you think the 2 pin connectors look like the picture?
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 07:45 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Did you see the picture. I have had to throw away ones like that.
They are made for automated equipment that shears off the sides.
I have had lots of them, they stink. If you don't cut perfect they are
too wide to go in for insertion.
There drawing may show them in finished ready to use condition. But if
they come connected side by side they are a big pain.
Real Molex from Mouser, you won't have the problem. They break off on
the end, or better yet, buy them loose.
They are about $3.20 per Hundred.
But you can save a lot of money buying the actual connectors from Taya.
I just got a few hundred last week, the seem OK, but are not exactly
like the Molex. The Molex pins fit them.
Mike, WA6ISP
On 6/8/2017 1:15 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Did you look at the actual datasheet? They break off from the top.
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 03:11 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Tayda has good connectors, but I would not buy their pins if they look
like their picture!
Beware of the pins that look like this! You have to cut them flush on
the sides where they slide in.
I have used them, very troublesome.
Either buy them "Loose" (ready) or if connect together they break off on
the end, not the sides.
On 6/8/2017 11:11 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Is that the same as these? (note: they use the same pic for all of
them)
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 01:47 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Mouser Crimp Term 22-30 Ga. by Molex
# 538-08-50-0114
On 6/8/2017 10:24 AM, bwbangerter via Groups.Io wrote:
I would like to obtain a few female pins for the connector bodies
used
with the bitx40. But I do not recognize these connectors. It would
be useful to make up shielded cables for some of the connections, and
to make connections without splicing wires. Can anyone tell me what
to order?
|
When they provide a datasheet, you ignore the picture. Do you think the 2 pin connectors look like the picture?
Vince.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 06/08/2017 07:45 PM, Michael Hagen wrote: Did you see the picture. I have had to throw away ones like that.
They are made for automated equipment that shears off the sides.
I have had lots of them, they stink. If you don't cut perfect they are
too wide to go in for insertion.
There drawing may show them in finished ready to use condition. But if
they come connected side by side they are a big pain.
Real Molex from Mouser, you won't have the problem. They break off on
the end, or better yet, buy them loose.
They are about $3.20 per Hundred.
But you can save a lot of money buying the actual connectors from Taya.
I just got a few hundred last week, the seem OK, but are not exactly
like the Molex. The Molex pins fit them.
Mike, WA6ISP
On 6/8/2017 1:15 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Did you look at the actual datasheet? They break off from the top.
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 03:11 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Tayda has good connectors, but I would not buy their pins if they look
like their picture!
Beware of the pins that look like this! You have to cut them flush on
the sides where they slide in.
I have used them, very troublesome.
Either buy them "Loose" (ready) or if connect together they break off on
the end, not the sides.
On 6/8/2017 11:11 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Is that the same as these? (note: they use the same pic for all of
them)
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 01:47 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Mouser Crimp Term 22-30 Ga. by Molex
# 538-08-50-0114
On 6/8/2017 10:24 AM, bwbangerter via Groups.Io wrote:
I would like to obtain a few female pins for the connector bodies
used
with the bitx40. But I do not recognize these connectors. It would
be useful to make up shielded cables for some of the connections, and
to make connections without splicing wires. Can anyone tell me what
to order?
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
|
Re: Bitx connector pins and Crimping
Here's a web page I put together a few years ago on Molex connectors. They are pretty universal.
Leonard
kc0wox
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Re: Calling all Midwesterners.
WA9DOH
?Richmond, IL (Illinois/Wisconsin State-line.
Grid Sq.? EN52ul
BITX40v3 12V. battery. 8V battery runs PA cooling fan. see attachment
First DX: ? EA8JK ?CANARY ISLANDS (La Palma)
?17 mi West of Lake
Michigan, approx. 70 mi N/NW of Chicago.
?
80-10 mtr trap dipole
straight across 10' off ground.? Rg8x
?
East/West lobes,
?Elevation 820 ft. S
?
Ham since 1961
On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 11:14 AM, ekelley <ekelley828@...> wrote:
W0OIC, Ed, Dubuque Iowa
On 6/8/2017 12:59 AM, John Smith via
Groups.Io wrote:
Everyone else is
getting called out and so should we. We make up the heartland of
this country. So let's hear from ya.
de KG5KYJ, John, Oklahoma city, Central time zone. 18' NVIS
Dipole. 24 Volt BITX40.
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Re: Struggling with tuning clicks and birdie sounds
On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 01:26 pm, Richard Spohn wrote:
Allard, I would like to take the opportunity to thank you for your
continuing evolution of the Bitx40 software. You have made yourself
indispensable in making this radio great! I received my Bitx40 box
maybe six months ago and it is still in there, as I watch your
software evolve...and if I had jumped in and made it and modified it
asap, many mods would already have been undone as I find your
programming getting better and better. There is some value in
procrastination after all...
Thanks Rich, it's always good to hear that users like the software. On the other hand, I definitely don't want to encourage any procrastination. The whole idea of the BITX40 project is to encourage experimentation. So open that BITX40 box and start playing! 73 Allard PE1NWL
?
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Re: Bitx connector pins and Crimping
I have some crimpers, I think I got from Seeed.
I have had trouble using them. The pins are so small, you have to have every thing perfect.
You can smash the pin or it turns sideways? You got to have good eyes. And the stranded wires can not be frayed.
One thing, I use 26 Ga. wire, I got hundreds of feet in 5 or 6 colors.
I have had wires bird cage (fray) while trying to crimp, so I always TIN the wire to hold the strands together. That breaks the no-solder rule.
For the solder method, I use a needle nose and crimp with a roll motion the 2 sides. Solder real quick, and when cool crimp the top strain relief.
Don't do the top Hot, it melts the insulation.
If the solder wicks ups to the top, the wires will break from use. So, just a quick solder job.
Soldering is bad for connector pins. The military and industry have developed crimping on just the wire to cure the problem of work hardening and then breaking. So only us Hobbyists can get away with it!
Mike, WA6ISP
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 6/8/2017 1:29 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote: I use needle nose and a soldering iron! Seen too many crimp failures over time.
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 04:08 PM, Doug W wrote:
I know I am asking for two things that are typically mutually exclusive,
but has anyone found a cheap and reliable crimp tool for the connectors?
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Re: Calling all Midwesterners.
K0KIK, Daniel from LeMars, IA. EN12wt
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Re: Calling all Midwesterners.
John, AD0RW, from Coralville, Iowa. Hawkeye country, right next door to Iowa City and the U. of Iowa.
I have a choice between a dipole at 30 feet and an 80 meter wire vertical (mostly, more like half a 'Y')
tuned as an end fed half wave on 40. The latter seems to work better for long haul contacts.
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Re: Struggling with tuning clicks and birdie sounds
On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 01:43 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
That's even better, as Allard's code is pretty tight. One of my worries is that we don't fragment and fracture the group with too many processor/code variations. I'm guilty of this, too, as I will soon be releasing my firmware which uses the Arduino Mega 2560 Pro Mini.
Jack,
thanks for your wise comment, but I believe there's no need to worry.
I started my project from the following basic goals:
- provide a "standard" software
- some minimal hardware may have to be added for certain extra functions
- but even without the mods it should still basically work on the standard supplied hardware
So far we have been able to greatly improve the code and we could add some features that any HF radio should have: USB, CW, precise tuning.
We were even able to add some extra features such as Dual VFO, SPIT, SCAN. There are still some things on the wishlist though.
There are still some bytes left, and perhaps Pavel's library will free up some more space, but one day we will come to a point that we have to conclude that we "squeezed" the most out of the poor little nano.
Your project follows a different path from the beginning as it uses different hardware which, undoubtfully, opens new opportunities for extended features that will never fit into a nano.
So I believe the two projects can happily co-exist. And probably even more parallel projects will come up in the future. Nothing is forever, that's true innovation.
After all it's still up to the builders what they want to do with their BITX40's!
73 Allard PE1NWL
|
Did you see the picture. I have had to throw away ones like that. They are made for automated equipment that shears off the sides.
I have had lots of them, they stink. If you don't cut perfect they are too wide to go in for insertion.
There drawing may show them in finished ready to use condition. But if they come connected side by side they are a big pain.
Real Molex from Mouser, you won't have the problem. They break off on the end, or better yet, buy them loose.
They are about $3.20 per Hundred.
But you can save a lot of money buying the actual connectors from Taya.
I just got a few hundred last week, the seem OK, but are not exactly like the Molex. The Molex pins fit them.
Mike, WA6ISP
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 6/8/2017 1:15 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Did you look at the actual datasheet? They break off from the top.
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 03:11 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Tayda has good connectors, but I would not buy their pins if they look
like their picture!
Beware of the pins that look like this! You have to cut them flush on
the sides where they slide in.
I have used them, very troublesome.
Either buy them "Loose" (ready) or if connect together they break off on
the end, not the sides.
On 6/8/2017 11:11 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
Is that the same as these? (note: they use the same pic for all of them)
Vince.
On 06/08/2017 01:47 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Mouser Crimp Term 22-30 Ga. by Molex
# 538-08-50-0114
On 6/8/2017 10:24 AM, bwbangerter via Groups.Io wrote:
I would like to obtain a few female pins for the connector bodies used
with the bitx40. But I do not recognize these connectors. It would
be useful to make up shielded cables for some of the connections, and
to make connections without splicing wires. Can anyone tell me what
to order?
|
Re: W8TEE TFT/VFO Board from FDIM talk
Jack,
Thanks for sending the boards. Picked them up today.. Nice looking board!.
I also received my atmega 2560 mini pro and the correct DDS 9850. Mars 3 etc So parts have started to roll in...
1. I presume the vrmini 360,atmega and dds9850 all mount on the same side - the side with the lettering. (on the same side that says tft lcd vfo lettering)?
2. I was thinking of putting headers pins ?/ sockets for ?- ?atmega, dds and vr mini. Just in case of a future failure.? Then run cables from the tft ?display and tft vfo board. ? and mount the tft vfo board on the ?radio chassis and the ?TFT display on the front panel
Does this make sense or do you see any issues?
Any forecast on the code?
Thanks for your service , any info / guidance would be appreciated.
Ps:
?I am preping a new case ( a converted small form dell computer case , for my 3rd bitx - (for your ?Colour TFT/vfo board..) I am making sure this time, to have lots of room for big heatsink and room for ?various modules.etc.... I use my current bitx40 for mostly jt65 - works great and some ssb.
Great fun for a retired senior (me) Joe? VE1BWV
On Fri, May 26, 2017 at 6:10 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote: All:
Attached is the manual that will go with the TFT/VFO PCB that I am making available. I suggest that you read through it to determine if you want to build it. The manual only talks about the TFT/VFO board. The AGC, CW mode, and speech compressor will be on a separate board. I've also attached a schematic, and BOM for the board. I have a limited amount of the boards and will announce their cost after I package one up and take it to the post office to see what it costs to send it. That won't be cheap as the PO requires it to be Parcel Post rather than First Class.
The way I'd like to do this:
On Monday I will give you the cost, which will include shipping to the US. If you order more than one board, add $0.20 for each additional board. I will give you a Paypal account for the payment.
Please write an email to me first telling me how many boards you want and the address where to send them. If I have boards left, I will write back with "Yes", whereupon you make your payment after which I'll send the board(s). If I say "No", I'm out of boards so don't make a payment. I may reorder and, if I do, I'll post here that they're back in and we start over.
Read the manual and figure out if your interested. My guess is that the first board will cost $6.00.
72, Jack, W8TEE
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Re: Dhl customs cost to the usa
I ordered my bitx40 in late May, with DHL shipping for $10, and received it in a few days. ?No customs charge.
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Thanks to everyone who responded. ?That puts me on the right track. ?I use pliers to crimp such pins, then solder. ?A bit fussy to do, but works for me.
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The $19 DIY DSP audio filter
I came across this superb project. I have already ordered a teensy do I can play with it. It may work?nicely inside our bitx40 It is incredibly well documented  
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Re: Calling all Midwesterners.
About 5 miles south of Charlevoix, Michigan. Charlevoix is on US 31, south-west of the Straits of Mackinaw.
Rich KC8MWG
On Thursday, June 8, 2017 5:54 PM, KC8WBK via Groups.Io <cruisenewsnet@...> wrote:
South Haven, Michigan, near the shore of Lake Michigan, 80 miles Northeast of Chicago Harbor.
Draw a line down 8 Mile Road all the way from Detroit to Lake Michigan, where 8 Mile Rd (Baseline Rd) hits Lake Michigan, thats where I live. (Actually closer to 7 Mile).
Dipole in the trees running north-south about 35 feet high.
I am in a valley with a sand dune to my west, which seems to block some of the propagation out west.
I have a pipeline to the East Coast, from Boston to Charleston.
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Allard PE1NWL