Hi Craig!

I did not try 24 V as I do not have a power supply that goes as high.

I tried 19.6 V from Li battery pack for power tools and when transmitting I get about 1.8 A current draw and about 15 W in the dummy load.

For testing I use a 1 KHz signal generator with 100 mV peak output connected instead of the microphone.

I would guess at 24 V you will see 2.2 A to 2.4 A and a power output close to 22 W
--
Ion

VA3NOI

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ordered 3/25

shipped 3/29

arrived 4/5

need to pick up at the post office will prividr S/N as soon as i pick it up

73

Miguel?

N4MMT

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I thought the same thing about a wiki instruction page. Can you imagine the benefits to a newcomer? But it invites a lot of arguing about what should be said, and how to say it. To fix my pet peeve would take less time than it took me to write this. Polishing the official instruction page would seem to be important.?

A wise old ham Named David Casler KE0OG explained that there is a cultural difference between American, and Indian hams. When American hams build a kit, they expect it to work. Put it on the air, and that's it. But it is to be understood that the kit is minimalist, and experimentation, and expansion are expected.?

And I personally believe all businesses should do everything to eliminate confusion about the product and how to assemble it, and use it. If your instructions lead me to breaking it, or not operate it properly. That's your fault. And you should make it right. Or refund the money if they can't use it after you did everything to help them. It's cheaper to win back an old customer, than to get a new one.

Perhaps I should invite Mr. Farhan to explain why step #5 of the alignment was apparently removed. Was the end user adjustment of R136 causing liability issues? If it's better for us not to touch it, why still make it adjustable? Why not a fixed resistor in it's place? Or is this another playful way of leaving it to us as an exercise to figure out for ourselves??

Contrary of how it might seem, I would like to resolve this and move on. Imagine, no one talking about low power or low audio because of good instructions, and knowing what you should really expect. Imagine the ingenuity of customization if there are no hiccups getting started.?

The documentation for the uBITX will really have to be top shelf when that product is sold. Since it does more, there is more to be misunderstood.?

Hi, In desperation I am asking for help.

I built the nano Bitx, was working fine.

Foolishly I decided to tidy up the long connections.

Now all I get is a row of squares on lcd and occasional audio noise.I assume its the nano has given up.The led is on.Resoldered some iffy solder joints. So frustrating I was really impressed with the receiver.I might add that I had fitted a ten turn pot.It was around the wrong way so I reversed connections in my tidying up.

Argh the fun of building stuff.!

Did notice that the v in on nano reads 4.59 although the 5v reg is producing 5v.

Hope someone has a clue.

73s Colin G8LDJ

Well... the quickest way to tell would be to try another speaker and see if the problem repeats. If it does, then your audio amp might have an issue. If it sounds "clean", then the speaker you bought has the problem. Just looking at the specs of the speaker quickly, it looks as if it should handle the full output of the bitx without a problem. I have not yet done an exhaustive test of my receiver, but with a similar speaker design as yours, I get a lot of bad sounding stuff at high volumes. I wonder if the audio amp is oscillating or something? I'll have to see when I get a chance.

I have this speaker?

currently hooked up, and it sounds good at low volume but once i crank it up to medium the voice starts to get all distorted and im forced to turn the volume down to copy whats being said.

did i pick a crappy speaker or should i be putting a resistor or capacitor or something in line to fix this?

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Also, if scratch building, look over Farhan's new improved creation: ?

That may or may not someday be sold as a stuffed board by hfsigs. ?But first, Farhan would like a few people to build a few and report any issues.

At $59, I'm plenty happy. ?Even if the $1000 Elecraft has a better manual. ?Would be good if somebody at hfsigs had time to update the wireup instructions, though if they can just keep kicking out boards as well as they have they are doing more than good enough. ?Perhaps we copy the entire wireup webpage over to the wiki and have at it, point new users to to our edited version.

Kind of reminds me of my wasted youth, working in the bay area back in the late 70's. ? KFAT radio's signature piece was ?"Mooseturd Pie" by Utah Philips. ?Worth a listen, you can look it up..

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 11:48 am, John Smith wrote:

I think Farhan should finish writing?the instructions himself. Since it it his own product.?

I understand John Smith's frustration with the directions. I've also seen he follows what goes on here, so perhaps he could write a set of new instructions and post them here and give distribution rights to HF Signals. I think all of us would appreciate that and I think we'd see the volume of posts from new members fall dramatically if he does.

?

?

Likely ok. ?Read these posts:

? ??/g/BITX20/message/17967

? ??/g/BITX20/message/19289

I used a "SignaLink USB" interface. This, like other interfaces, gives me a external sound card in a little box that also includes transformer isolation for the audio lines and a relay for PTT.?

On my BITX I added a jack with mic speaker and ptt lines to it. Don't forget to put a cap in series with the mic line to block dc. I used the speaker output after the volume control but it would be slicker to use a fixed "line" level instead.?