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Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Tune to maximum smoke, thats my plan.


Re: Battery Monitor

 

Oops! On your build it would have been : " lcd.print(analogRead(A0)/47.7);" Sorry. -ND6T


Re: SI5351 drive level

 

I'll have a closer look. First thing I did when I got the bitx40 was check the windings and all was good.

73

Ken VA3ABN

On Sun, Jan 22, 2017 at 11:51 AM, Ashhar Farhan <farhanbox@...> wrote:
the transformer might have shorted its turns. try moving the windings apart.
- f

On 22-Jan-2017 10:08 pm, "Ken" <chase8043@...> wrote:
Thanks.

Well it looks like one of transistors in the VFO is gone. Next to no drive at the transformer.

73 Ken

2017-01-22 11:35 GMT-05:00 9a3xz <socijalizam1@...>:
8ma is aprox 10dbm.


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Re: Battery Monitor

 

Thanks Mike!

Or, if you don't like typing, just insert this in the display writing: "?lcd.print(analogRead(A1)/47.7);"

A real stack saver, too.? -ND6T


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

No. A rheostat (variable resistor) from R15 to R16. Check the BITX Hacks blog.

Lift the end of R15 that connects to C14 and insert the rheostat. Or the switch. The idea is to reduce or eliminate power to the first? RX RF stage (Q1) to reduce gain.

Grounding it would release the magic smoke, wouldn't it?

-ND6T


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

A pot from R15-R16 to ground?


Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?

 

Have you seen their shipping charges?


Low power, RV1 unresponsive

 

OK, first post. ?AC7QN here.

Assembled my BITX40.

Output into 50 ohm dummy about 2 watts.

Per instructions connected ammeter in series PA supply: ?.07A idle, .190A when PTT activated and .190A when HAAALLLOOOWWW into mic(2W out).

I set RV1 fully clockwise per instructions: ?.07A idle, .190A PTT, .190A at HaaaLLLOOOWWW but zero watts out.

I set RV1 back to approx original position: ?>07A idle, .190A PTT, >190A at HAAALLLOOOWWW and 3W out. ?I must have set the pot a liitle hotter than orig. setting.

Why isn't the current changing, why is the current so high at clockwise setting. ?Appears to be too high (recommended .100A)

Any ideas, suggestions, tests???

Tnx Chuck AC7QN


Battery Monitor

 

Just topped off my build with a battery monitor. I had a couple of 'free' Analog pins. Since I'm 'minimalist'-ing this BitX, it has only 16 characters
on the LCD, so, every character counts. I 'preciate those who are driving a 20x2 or 16x2 LCD - you have real estate to show '12.5' or even '12.5V'.
I chose to use a single character and rely on 'Custom Characters', 8 of which can be added using the LiquidCrystal library.

My 'voltage divider' starts with 560K / 180K resistors, with an additional 0.01uf (10nf) across the 180K, just to increase consistency and slow any temporary changes.

This gives some headroom for the ADC, which shouldn't be run > 5V. This divider translates to an input voltage of around 20.5V MAX, which shouldn't happen (at
least on the board - this would, necessarily, measure only the 'whole board', not the PA - if that's driven with 25V).

For Gel Battery Values 'above 13.0V' - the very FIRST Icon is 'plugged in'. I've not seen many gel batteries above 13.0V unless they've JUST come off charge.
So, that Icon can also be used to show 'eh, you're on a power supply, 13.8V'...

For the custom characters - I rely on a tool on my website:?

What I came up with is (and you can design your own):

int ?batterySense[8] = {647,632,622,612,602,597,592,587}; ? ? // ADC values which correspond to a voltage divider: ? V+ - 560K - (ADC Pin) 180K - GND
// ?These correspond to: ?13.0, 12.7, 12.5, 12.3, 12.1, 12.0, 11.9, 11.8 - but last number is not used; if we're not 'above the other 7 numbers' - empty!

// Note that ADC Values (Analog Pin read) are based upon the 560k/180k ratio, but 'your mileage may vary' (if, for instance, your 560k is 560,100 or 559,050, etc...)
// So, for testing for 'full battery', ehhhh, you might have 12.73 or 12.68 as your 'test for greater than' result. Experimentation can make this accurate for a particular?
// divider resistor pair, but... it's just meant to be an approximation anyway. It's sufficient that the general RANGE of values is consistent.

byte battery[][8] = {
? ? ?{ B01010, B01010, B11111, B10001, B10001, B10001, B01110, B00100 } // Plugged In ? ?> 13.0 - usually only shows when 'charging' or on a bench power supply.
? ? ,{ B01110, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111 } // Full Battery ?> 12.7 - (values are approximate, based upon the divider accuracy.)
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111 } // ? ? ? ? ? ? ? > 12.5
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B10001, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111 } // ? ? ? ? ? ? ? > 12.3
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B10001, B10001, B11111, B11111, B11111, B11111 } // ? ? ? ? ? ? ? > 12.1
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B10001, B10001, B10001, B11111, B11111, B11111 } // ? ? ? ? ? ? ? > 12.0
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B10001, B10001, B10001, B10001, B11111, B11111 } // ? ? ? ? ? ? ? > 11.9 - (you're runnin' on vapors here...)
? ? ,{ B01110, B11011, B10001, B10001, B10001, B10001, B10001, B11111 } // EMPTY BATTERY - recharge or risk damaging your battery. References I've seen put this at about 11.9V.
};
#define ?BatteryCheckSeconds 5 * 1000L ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?// Check the battery every 'n' Seconds. Here 'n' is every 5 seconds.
unsigned long lastBatteryCheck = 0L;????????????????????? ? // Time (in millis()) of the LAST battery check... this (and millis()) is a LONG.


In the INIT:

? // Setup the Battery Monitor...
? for (int i=0; i < 8; i++){
? ? lcd.createChar(i, battery[i]); ? ?// Create the Custom Icons.
? }
? display_battery();
? lastBatteryCheck = millis(); ? ? ? ?// Mark the time, so we don't swamp CPU or cause unnecessary RF noise doing this constantly


In the LOOP:

? // You don't look too busy... Check the Battery... at least every (n) seconds.

? if (millis() - lastBatteryCheck > BatteryCheckSeconds)
? ? display_battery();


Finally, the battery checkin' itself (I used A0, but - whatever Analog pin you might have available):

void display_battery() {
? // Read Battery Sense Pin
? int sensorValue = analogRead(A0);

? // Find a suitable Icon...
? lcd.setCursor(0, 0); ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?// *** Mine's on the far left; put it where'd you like, or however you'd show it..
? boolean notfound = true;
? for (int i=0; i < 7; i++){
? ? ? if (sensorValue >= batterySense[i]) {
? ? ? ? ? lcd.write(i);
? ? ? ? ? notfound = false;
? ? ? ? ? i = 7;
? ? ? }
? }

? if (notfound) ????? ? // We never found a 'sensevalue' above approximately 11.9...
? ? lcd.write(7); ? ? ? // ...so, we must be below < 11.9V; use our Last Icon 'Empty Battery'

? // mark our most recent Battery Check Time
? lastBatteryCheck = millis();
}


Thought I'd share this; I enjoyed writing the code & putting together the custom LCD Icons. Hope someone finds it useful.
I'll update my 'album' with an updated LCD photo.

Mike Yancey, KM5Z
Dallas, Texas



Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?

 

I already have some 40mm x 40mm square heatsinks (not drilled or tapped yet) with fourteen 19mm deep fins (heatsinks are 23mm deep overall). Would one of those possibly be sufficient?

Rich
KC8MWG


On Sunday, January 22, 2017 5:27 PM, John Backo via Groups.Io <iam74@...> wrote:



Something like that will work.

There are plenty of good sources without resorting to something "specific" (and expensive). Computer power supplies and cpu coolers are good sources. Inverters and power converters are another good source. One can often find the cooler fin units as surplus. I have used them in the JBOT and 10W units and they work well. I have one computer cooler used as a dummy load which can take 200W for a few minutes.

It is fairly easy to home-brew something by using several pieces of copper sheet bolted together and spread out a little. CW requires more heat dissipation than SSB. The digital modes are probably the worst (though they are usually low power).

As always one has to balance efficiency and portability.

john
AD5YE





Second tuning pot in analog

 

How do you wire the second pot in series?


72, Bob KI0G?


Re: Better heatsink for IRF510?

 

Something like that will work.

There are plenty of good sources without resorting to something "specific" (and expensive). Computer power supplies and cpu coolers are good sources. Inverters and power converters are another good source. One can often find the cooler fin units as surplus. I have used them in the JBOT and 10W units and they work well. I have one computer cooler used as a dummy load which can take 200W for a few minutes.

It is fairly easy to home-brew something by using several pieces of copper sheet bolted together and spread out a little. CW requires more heat dissipation than SSB. The digital modes are probably the worst (though they are usually low power).

As always one has to balance efficiency and portability.

john
AD5YE


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

Rahul Srivastava
 

Hi!,

Very simialr to AGC proposed by Farhan, Russian Klopik Transceiver also has a AVC made around LM386 using single 2N7000, we can also give it a try in Bitx.?

Klopik schematics here:



73's

Rahul VU3WJM




On Monday, 23 January 2017 1:40 AM, KC8WBK via Groups.Io <cruisenewsnet@...> wrote:



Strong signals are way too loud with headphones.? What is the best way to deal with this?
The problem is mainly with high power stations chatting about their amps and beams.? Some powerful signals are breaking up so as to be unintelligible.
I have done the c113 cap delete and the c102 capacitance reduction to 28 pF, that may have something to do with it.? However, I also had issues before I did the c102 mod.




Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

A switch between R15 and R16 will act like a 20 dB attenuator. Or insert a 10 K variable resistor there for continuous control from zero to 17 dB.

-Don, ND6T


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

9a3xz
 

right ....maybe also one attenuator approx 20-30db in rx part ;)


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Also check out Ashhar's AGC circuit here:

???


Discussed in the thread around post 18986


Re: Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

From Ashhar's post 18062:"The capacitor between pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 can be removed if you prefer headphones to speakers."

Check the LM386 datasheet if you want further info on this. Though I'd think if it were just an issue with audio gain, that could be cured by twiddling the volume control. ?Perhaps you need an RF gain pot going into that first RX amp at Q1.

Jerry, KE7ER


Strong stations too loud even at lowest volume

 

Strong signals are way too loud with headphones.? What is the best way to deal with this?

The problem is mainly with high power stations chatting about their amps and beams.? Some powerful signals are breaking up so as to be unintelligible.

I have done the c113 cap delete and the c102 capacitance reduction to 28 pF, that may have something to do with it.? However, I also had issues before I did the c102 mod.



Re: SI5351 drive level

 

the transformer might have shorted its turns. try moving the windings apart.
- f

On 22-Jan-2017 10:08 pm, "Ken" <chase8043@...> wrote:
Thanks.

Well it looks like one of transistors in the VFO is gone. Next to no drive at the transformer.

73 Ken

2017-01-22 11:35 GMT-05:00 9a3xz <socijalizam1@...>:
8ma is aprox 10dbm.


Poslano preko Samsung Mobile ure?aja




Re: SI5351 drive level

 

Thanks.

Well it looks like one of transistors in the VFO is gone. Next to no drive at the transformer.

73 Ken

2017-01-22 11:35 GMT-05:00 9a3xz <socijalizam1@...>:

8ma is aprox 10dbm.


Poslano preko Samsung Mobile ure?aja