Re: And so, my first two QSL Cards of the year go out for BitX40 QSO's...
I'd use Danny Horvat's? EFHW-4010-1K (google it).That and a 31 foot jacktite pole would be a lot less trouble than a 40m rotating beam, and less likely to catch the attention of neighbors. ?There are plenty of other end-fed-half-wave antennas out there, but this one hits 40,20,15,10 without a tuner, and can deal with a fair bit of power. ?The 80 meter version is twice as long, and more than twice as as likely to extend into somebody else's campsite. ?Though if you do have a spot big enough for 1/2 wave at 80m, you could add more wire to the far end of the EFHW-4010-1K. ? Have a chunk of PVC pipe permanently mounted to a corner of that motorhome to gain a few more feet, and just slip the jacktite down into the top of it when parked. Ashhar has suggested there will be easy mods for the Bitx40 to hit other bands. ---In BITX20@..., <xlthompson@...> wrote : What are you using for an antenna. I am just starting out and wondering about a rotating ?dipole ,I travel in a motorhome sometimes and thought it might be easier to put up.
|
Re: troubleshooting the bitx40 receiver
Don't have one, but I'm convinced the Raduino will fix your drift issue. ?In addition to the Arduino Nano, you get an Si5351 and a display. ?The Raduino is being offered as an upgrade to those with the older Bitx40's?for $14 USD,?which is a very good deal.? I'm expecting much of the future activity in this group to be all about modifications?that involve the Raduino. ?It promises to make the Bitx40 a very flexible development platform.
Jerry, KE7ER
---In BITX20@..., <obeebe@...> wrote : > ?If I could get two of those would this solve my drift issue ?
?
|
Re: Improved audio from the Bitx40 (video)
Thanks Peter,
I've ordered mine with the DDS so to simplify matters I'll probably do the work in the firmware and adjust C102 as you did (or add a variable capacitor and really dial it in.)
Cheers, John VA7JBE
|
Re: Sad reality of stock vfo
Who has " changed the on-board chip capacitors to leaded polystyrene types and report?good stability." With the BitX40v3, and?
which caps did you replace and with what values?
Jer aa1of
|
Re: And so, my first two QSL Cards of the year go out for BitX40 QSO's...
What are you using for an antenna. I am just starting out and wondering about a rotating ?dipole ,I travel in a motorhome sometimes and thought it might be easier to put up.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 1:06 PM, mikeyancey@... [BITX20] <BITX20@...> wrote:
?
Fired the newly completed BitX40 up on New Years Eve - I'd had zero luck on 7.285, but it's probably because I'm a) in Central-South USA (Texas), and b) never the right timing.
So, I toddled on down to the busy, competitive area of 7.912 Mhz - bam! - I was able to return a CQ call from El Paso (meh, yeah, it's only a mere, sickly 625 mi / 1022 km from my Dallas QTH), but immediately after our brief QSO, a fellow from Knoxville, TN chimed in, and I was '58', with good audio. Now, that's 772 mi / 1357 km from Dallas in the other direction!
However, I was using the 2nd battery, for 25 VDC at the PA. And the IRF510 DOES get hot!? An old saying would be; "Hotter than a 2 dollar pistol" - not sure if that would translate well. The IRF510 gets so hot, it'll drop out until it cools (at least, if it doesn't 'die'). I was able to quickly slide a PC Fan in front of it and the IRF510 recovered.
So, probably my final mod (outside of adding a battery monitor to the homebrew Arduino / DDS?
combo, will be a small, temperature-controlled fan, that is - I may have a small, 20mm or 30mm PC fan handy in my 'scrap heap'.
I'm so enthused about this little rig. So many opportunities for add-ons.?
BTW, I have home-brewed my mic - since many PC microphones are simply little electret capsules, enclosed in a cheap plastic case - I was able to add a PTT switch to the base of a cheap, Creative-Labs / Labtec, desk-style, microphone. It works great, is light & portable.
Gosh, I need to put some photos up. This BitX40 really turned out nicely.
Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dallas, Texas
|
Re: troubleshooting the bitx40 receiver
I am still having stability problems with the VFO in the 1st ?BITX 40 I bought in Nov /16 . Works great except for the drifting of the VFO . I ordered a second one and it arrived just before Christmas . Same issue. I see now that they being shipped with Digital VFO module. If I could get two of those would this solve my drift issue ? Other than that they are fantastic !
|
Re: Improved audio from the Bitx40 (video)
John - depends on if the filter's bandpass is symmetrical OR the mixing scheme is kept so the IF is not subtracted.? With USB you'd need to drop the carrier oscillator approx 6 kHz. ?Provision is made on the board for a series inductor for that purpose. ?This would need to be carefully set to provide reasonable audio.?
One way around this (especially if using a DDS) is to subtract the IF by having the VFO on the high side. ?Eg for 5 MHz the DDS would be around 17 MHz and for 14 MHz around 26 MHz. ?Then you wouldn't need any USB/LSB switching as it would always be right due to the mixing.?
|
And so, my first two QSL Cards of the year go out for BitX40 QSO's...
Fired the newly completed BitX40 up on New Years Eve - I'd had zero luck on 7.285, but it's probably because I'm a) in Central-South USA (Texas), and b) never the right timing.
So, I toddled on down to the busy, competitive area of 7.912 Mhz - bam! - I was able to return a CQ call from El Paso (meh, yeah, it's only a mere, sickly 625 mi / 1022 km from my Dallas QTH), but immediately after our brief QSO, a fellow from Knoxville, TN chimed in, and I was '58', with good audio. Now, that's 772 mi / 1357 km from Dallas in the other direction!
However, I was using the 2nd battery, for 25 VDC at the PA. And the IRF510 DOES get hot!? An old saying would be; "Hotter than a 2 dollar pistol" - not sure if that would translate well. The IRF510 gets so hot, it'll drop out until it cools (at least, if it doesn't 'die'). I was able to quickly slide a PC Fan in front of it and the IRF510 recovered.
So, probably my final mod (outside of adding a battery monitor to the homebrew Arduino / DDS?
combo, will be a small, temperature-controlled fan, that is - I may have a small, 20mm or 30mm PC fan handy in my 'scrap heap'.
I'm so enthused about this little rig. So many opportunities for add-ons.?
BTW, I have home-brewed my mic - since many PC microphones are simply little electret capsules, enclosed in a cheap plastic case - I was able to add a PTT switch to the base of a cheap, Creative-Labs / Labtec, desk-style, microphone. It works great, is light & portable.
Gosh, I need to put some photos up. This BitX40 really turned out nicely.
Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dallas, Texas
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
I also found this encloser on thingiverse, but I think I will design my own. Just waiting for the kit and then I will design an encloser for 3D printing.
I use fusion360 for all my designs. It's a great CAD software and there are a lot of tutorials out there. And it's free.
So if anyone has some ideas for an encloser and could make a drawing with measurements, I could turn that into a stl file for 3D printing.
73 de Helmut OE4HDS
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
Oops, responded before I read the whole
message.? When you do get your Bitx40 send an email directly to me
so that I don't inadvertently gloss over it.? My email address is
@noeth-family.com - where is ka9bgt.
I don't have a Bitx40 (or 20), I've been watching the group
because I've been thinking of buying/building one.? I'll probably
not go with the Raduino, as I already have a SI5153 based digital
VFO built, so I'll probably just copy that one.? I built the one I
have for an antenna analyzer.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/2017 12:30 PM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]
wrote:
?
Thanks!
Where are you measuring X0/Y0 from?
Have to
wait until I get my Bitx40 before I can decide, so I can
measure the LCD and figure out where I want the controls
(I might go for a front-firing speaker, as well, if you
can do a pattern of small holes, or slots!). If you
already have a Bitx40 with the Raduino, maybe you could
make the front/back panels to your tastes and put it on
Thingiverse; it might make a good start for others as
well.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January 2, 2017 1:09 PM, "Jim Noeth
ka9bgt@... [BITX20]"
wrote:
?
You
can also do the same with the back
panel.? On both, I'll assume that
'lower left' means as looking at the
front of the case for the front
panel, and looking at the back of
the case for the back panel.
Jim
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 12:07 PM, Jim Noeth ka9bgt@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
If
you can let me know where,
type and size of the holes you
need in the panel, I'll build
a printable (.stl) file for
you that matches.? If you'll
respond with something like:
round hole, d1 mm diameter,
center at x, y
rectangular hole x1 mm long by
y1 mm high at x, y (lower left
corner of hole)
Repeat the above for as many
holes as you need, remember
all dimensions are in
millimeters (if you want to
use inches, just let me know
and I'll convert).? All
measurements will be taken
from the lower left corner of
the panel.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 11:12 AM, Richard
Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
I
have had OpenScad on my
computer since I built
my 3D printer 3 years
ago (it was part of the
software download
package for the
printer), and I never
could make heads or
tails of it. It's not
very "user friendly", in
my opinion.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January
2, 2017 12:05
PM, "Jim Noeth ka9bgt@...
[BITX20]"
wrote:
?
There
is a piece of
software
called
OpenScad that
is free.? With
it, you can
import a .STL
file (which is
what is
usually
provided on
Thingiverse),
you can then
'subtract'
cylinders (to
make round
holes) and
cubes (to make
rectangular
holes).? Then
from that
produce a new
.STL file, run
it through
your favorite
slicer
program, then
print it.
Jim Noeth -
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17
10:45 AM,
Richard Knack
ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20]
wrote:
?
Out of
curiosity,
does anyone on
this group
play around
with CAD
software? I
found a 3D
printable box
on Thingiverse
( )
that was sized
for the Bitx40
board, but it
has plain,
un-drilled
front and back
panels. Maybe
someone here
who knows how
to use CAD
software could
design a 3D
printable
enclosure that
has a panel
that has
openings to
accommodate
the Raduino
display,
antenna
connector, and
other
controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but
I don't know
how to use CAD
software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
All measurements are taken from the
lower left corner of the panel (as you look at the panel from the
front).? For a rectangular opening, that measurement would be the
x and y offset from the lower left of the panel to the lower left
of the opening.? For a circular hole, it would be the x and y
offset from the lower left of the panel to the center of the hole.
For the rear panel (if you want that one as well), it would be the
same, except the lower left would be as looking at the rear of the
enclosure.
I already have the skeleton SCAD script put together, just need
the size, type and location of the holes to complete.? I agree
that AutoScad can be somewhat daunting at first, since it doesn't
have a graphic interface.? But, once I got it figured out, it's
really not that bad.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/2017 12:30 PM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]
wrote:
?
Thanks!
Where are you measuring X0/Y0 from?
Have to
wait until I get my Bitx40 before I can decide, so I can
measure the LCD and figure out where I want the controls
(I might go for a front-firing speaker, as well, if you
can do a pattern of small holes, or slots!). If you
already have a Bitx40 with the Raduino, maybe you could
make the front/back panels to your tastes and put it on
Thingiverse; it might make a good start for others as
well.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January 2, 2017 1:09 PM, "Jim Noeth
ka9bgt@... [BITX20]"
wrote:
?
You
can also do the same with the back
panel.? On both, I'll assume that
'lower left' means as looking at the
front of the case for the front
panel, and looking at the back of
the case for the back panel.
Jim
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 12:07 PM, Jim Noeth ka9bgt@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
If
you can let me know where,
type and size of the holes you
need in the panel, I'll build
a printable (.stl) file for
you that matches.? If you'll
respond with something like:
round hole, d1 mm diameter,
center at x, y
rectangular hole x1 mm long by
y1 mm high at x, y (lower left
corner of hole)
Repeat the above for as many
holes as you need, remember
all dimensions are in
millimeters (if you want to
use inches, just let me know
and I'll convert).? All
measurements will be taken
from the lower left corner of
the panel.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 11:12 AM, Richard
Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
I
have had OpenScad on my
computer since I built
my 3D printer 3 years
ago (it was part of the
software download
package for the
printer), and I never
could make heads or
tails of it. It's not
very "user friendly", in
my opinion.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January
2, 2017 12:05
PM, "Jim Noeth ka9bgt@...
[BITX20]"
wrote:
?
There
is a piece of
software
called
OpenScad that
is free.? With
it, you can
import a .STL
file (which is
what is
usually
provided on
Thingiverse),
you can then
'subtract'
cylinders (to
make round
holes) and
cubes (to make
rectangular
holes).? Then
from that
produce a new
.STL file, run
it through
your favorite
slicer
program, then
print it.
Jim Noeth -
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17
10:45 AM,
Richard Knack
ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20]
wrote:
?
Out of
curiosity,
does anyone on
this group
play around
with CAD
software? I
found a 3D
printable box
on Thingiverse
( )
that was sized
for the Bitx40
board, but it
has plain,
un-drilled
front and back
panels. Maybe
someone here
who knows how
to use CAD
software could
design a 3D
printable
enclosure that
has a panel
that has
openings to
accommodate
the Raduino
display,
antenna
connector, and
other
controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but
I don't know
how to use CAD
software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
Thanks! Where are you measuring X0/Y0 from?
Have to wait until I get my Bitx40 before I can decide, so I can measure the LCD and figure out where I want the controls (I might go for a front-firing speaker, as well, if you can do a pattern of small holes, or slots!). If you already have a Bitx40 with the Raduino, maybe you could make the front/back panels to your tastes and put it on Thingiverse; it might make a good start for others as well.
Rich KC8MWG
On Monday, January 2, 2017 1:09 PM, "Jim Noeth ka9bgt@... [BITX20]" wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
You can also do the same with the back
panel.? On both, I'll assume that 'lower left' means as looking at
the front of the case for the front panel, and looking at the back
of the case for the back panel.
Jim
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 12:07 PM, Jim Noeth ka9bgt@... [BITX20]
wrote:
?
If you can let me know where,
type and size of the holes you need in the panel, I'll
build a printable (.stl) file for you that matches.? If
you'll respond with something like:
round hole, d1 mm diameter, center at x, y
rectangular hole x1 mm long by y1 mm high at x, y (lower
left corner of hole)
Repeat the above for as many holes as you need, remember
all dimensions are in millimeters (if you want to use
inches, just let me know and I'll convert).? All
measurements will be taken from the lower left corner of
the panel.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 11:12 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
I have
had OpenScad on my computer since I built my 3D
printer 3 years ago (it was part of the software
download package for the printer), and I never could
make heads or tails of it. It's not very "user
friendly", in my opinion.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January 2, 2017 12:05 PM, "Jim Noeth
ka9bgt@...
[BITX20]"
wrote:
?
There
is a piece of software called
OpenScad that is free.? With it,
you can import a .STL file
(which is what is usually
provided on Thingiverse), you
can then 'subtract' cylinders
(to make round holes) and cubes
(to make rectangular holes).?
Then from that produce a new
.STL file, run it through your
favorite slicer program, then
print it.
Jim Noeth - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 10:45 AM, Richard
Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
Out
of curiosity, does
anyone on this group
play around with CAD
software? I found a 3D
printable box on
Thingiverse ( ) that was
sized for the Bitx40
board, but it has plain,
un-drilled front and
back panels. Maybe
someone here who knows
how to use CAD software
could design a 3D
printable enclosure that
has a panel that has
openings to accommodate
the Raduino display,
antenna connector, and
other controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but I don't
know how to use CAD
software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
Re: Improved audio from the Bitx40 (video)
Is it possible that the bandpass filter characteristics with the 47pF capacitor are a remnant of the BitX20's USB operation?? If so, would adding future bands like 60m or 20m sound better with the 47pF capacitor or would the characteristics be the same regardless of which sideband is used?
Cheers, John VA7JBE
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
You can also do the same with the back
panel.? On both, I'll assume that 'lower left' means as looking at
the front of the case for the front panel, and looking at the back
of the case for the back panel.
Jim
KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 12:07 PM, Jim Noeth ka9bgt@... [BITX20]
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
If you can let me know where,
type and size of the holes you need in the panel, I'll
build a printable (.stl) file for you that matches.? If
you'll respond with something like:
round hole, d1 mm diameter, center at x, y
rectangular hole x1 mm long by y1 mm high at x, y (lower
left corner of hole)
Repeat the above for as many holes as you need, remember
all dimensions are in millimeters (if you want to use
inches, just let me know and I'll convert).? All
measurements will be taken from the lower left corner of
the panel.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 11:12 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
I have
had OpenScad on my computer since I built my 3D
printer 3 years ago (it was part of the software
download package for the printer), and I never could
make heads or tails of it. It's not very "user
friendly", in my opinion.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January 2, 2017 12:05 PM, "Jim Noeth
ka9bgt@...
[BITX20]"
wrote:
?
There
is a piece of software called
OpenScad that is free.? With it,
you can import a .STL file
(which is what is usually
provided on Thingiverse), you
can then 'subtract' cylinders
(to make round holes) and cubes
(to make rectangular holes).?
Then from that produce a new
.STL file, run it through your
favorite slicer program, then
print it.
Jim Noeth - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 10:45 AM, Richard
Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
Out
of curiosity, does
anyone on this group
play around with CAD
software? I found a 3D
printable box on
Thingiverse ( ) that was
sized for the Bitx40
board, but it has plain,
un-drilled front and
back panels. Maybe
someone here who knows
how to use CAD software
could design a 3D
printable enclosure that
has a panel that has
openings to accommodate
the Raduino display,
antenna connector, and
other controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but I don't
know how to use CAD
software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
If you can let me know where, type and
size of the holes you need in the panel, I'll build a printable
(.stl) file for you that matches.? If you'll respond with
something like:
round hole, d1 mm diameter, center at x, y
rectangular hole x1 mm long by y1 mm high at x, y (lower left
corner of hole)
Repeat the above for as many holes as you need, remember all
dimensions are in millimeters (if you want to use inches, just let
me know and I'll convert).? All measurements will be taken from
the lower left corner of the panel.
Jim - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 11:12 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I have had
OpenScad on my computer since I built my 3D printer 3
years ago (it was part of the software download package
for the printer), and I never could make heads or tails
of it. It's not very "user friendly", in my opinion.
Rich
KC8MWG
On
Monday, January 2, 2017 12:05 PM, "Jim Noeth
ka9bgt@... [BITX20]"
wrote:
?
There
is a piece of software called
OpenScad that is free.? With it, you
can import a .STL file (which is
what is usually provided on
Thingiverse), you can then
'subtract' cylinders (to make round
holes) and cubes (to make
rectangular holes).? Then from that
produce a new .STL file, run it
through your favorite slicer
program, then print it.
Jim Noeth - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 10:45 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@...
[BITX20] wrote:
?
Out
of curiosity, does anyone on
this group play around with
CAD software? I found a 3D
printable box on Thingiverse
( ) that was
sized for the Bitx40 board,
but it has plain, un-drilled
front and back panels. Maybe
someone here who knows how
to use CAD software could
design a 3D printable
enclosure that has a panel
that has openings to
accommodate the Raduino
display, antenna connector,
and other controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but I don't know
how to use CAD software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
That would be sweet!?
Roy? WA0YMH
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2017 10:45 AM, "Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]" < BITX20@...> wrote:
?
Out of curiosity, does anyone on this group play around with CAD software? I found a 3D printable box on Thingiverse ( ) that was sized for the Bitx40 board, but it has plain, un-drilled front and back panels. Maybe someone here who knows how to use CAD software could design a 3D printable enclosure that has a panel that has openings to accommodate the Raduino display, antenna connector, and other controls/jacks? I'd do it, but I don't know how to use CAD software...
Rich KC8MWG
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
I have had OpenScad on my computer since I built my 3D printer 3 years ago (it was part of the software download package for the printer), and I never could make heads or tails of it. It's not very "user friendly", in my opinion.
Rich KC8MWG
On Monday, January 2, 2017 12:05 PM, "Jim Noeth ka9bgt@... [BITX20]" wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
There is a piece of software called
OpenScad that is free.? With it, you can import a .STL file (which
is what is usually provided on Thingiverse), you can then
'subtract' cylinders (to make round holes) and cubes (to make
rectangular holes).? Then from that produce a new .STL file, run
it through your favorite slicer program, then print it.
Jim Noeth - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 10:45 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]
wrote:
?
Out
of curiosity, does anyone on this group play around with
CAD software? I found a 3D printable box on Thingiverse
( ) that was sized for the
Bitx40 board, but it has plain, un-drilled front and
back panels. Maybe someone here who knows how to use CAD
software could design a 3D printable enclosure that has
a panel that has openings to accommodate the Raduino
display, antenna connector, and other controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but I don't know how to use CAD software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
Having a passing familiarity with the inner-workings of the FT-817, one of the problems with it is that its AGC is not well-designed.
Unlike most AGCs, the time constant appears to be different for weak signals (<S9) than above, but this has to do with the unfortunate "volts/dB" curve of the AGC control voltage: For weaker signals, it is reasonable, but for strong signals a small change in voltage = more dB. The net effect of this is that the AGC seems to be inconsistent in the manner described.
When I use my FT-817 - particularly on a busy or noisy band - I make use of the attenuator to keep the S-meter in the "lower half" (<S9). In this way, one avoids the de-facto audio compression that seems to occur when the AGC is in its upper range where the time constant - even on "slow" - is faster than what one would ever choose intentionally.
Interestingly, I've not see this AGC problem discussed much as its cause isn't immediately obvious and I have not ever seen any attempted fixes but it does explain the sometimes "heavy" sound attributed to this radio. If nothing else it can serve as a cautionary tale to someone designing their own AGC loop.
73,
Clint KA7OEI
|
Re: 3d printable enclosures?
There is a piece of software called
OpenScad that is free.? With it, you can import a .STL file (which
is what is usually provided on Thingiverse), you can then
'subtract' cylinders (to make round holes) and cubes (to make
rectangular holes).? Then from that produce a new .STL file, run
it through your favorite slicer program, then print it.
Jim Noeth - KA9BGT
On 1/2/17 10:45 AM, Richard Knack ihc73scout2@... [BITX20]
wrote:
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?
Out
of curiosity, does anyone on this group play around with
CAD software? I found a 3D printable box on Thingiverse
( ) that was sized for the
Bitx40 board, but it has plain, un-drilled front and
back panels. Maybe someone here who knows how to use CAD
software could design a 3D printable enclosure that has
a panel that has openings to accommodate the Raduino
display, antenna connector, and other controls/jacks?
I'd do it, but I don't know how to use CAD software...
Rich
KC8MWG
|
Out of curiosity, does anyone on this group play around with CAD software? I found a 3D printable box on Thingiverse ( ) that was sized for the Bitx40 board, but it has plain, un-drilled front and back panels. Maybe someone here who knows how to use CAD software could design a 3D printable enclosure that has a panel that has openings to accommodate the Raduino display, antenna connector, and other controls/jacks? I'd do it, but I don't know how to use CAD software...
Rich KC8MWG
|