¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: Another battery question

 

Indeed, none of us have any argument with that.
Batteries concentrate lots of energy in a very small space,?that makes them dangerous.
Safest to buy a complete battery system and charger that is
well reviewed and shows few failures, and then thoroughly read the documentation.
The alternative is, as you suggest, to make sure you know what you are doing
before proceeding.?

?

On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 05:38 PM, Don LeRoi wrote:

I don't object to anything that Andy is doing because he knows what he's doing.? My concern is for people that don't know what they're doing.? That's all.?


Re: Another battery question

 

Jerry,

I don't object to anything that Andy is doing because he knows what he's doing.? My concern is for people that don't know what they're doing.? That's all.?

Cheers,
Don?


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

 

Things changed here in the USA as of April 19 2022.
A new amateur radio license costs $35.
The 10 year renewal of an expiring amateur radio license also costs $35.
??
??


On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 09:35 AM, ajparent1/kb1gmx wrote:
The first thing needed is FRN so payment is possible when needed.
Renewal is done via ULS and last check was free.
ULS is the way to all things FCC for licensing and such.

Not an expert only do it about once every 10 years.

Allison
------------------
Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket.

?


Re: Another battery question

 

Don,

Years ago, I occasionally used a small inverter type DC arc welder to charge a 24v offgrid lead acid battery bank.
Could set the current to something appropriate, this was way faster than any other charger I had available.
Worked great for me but I don't recommend this technique to others, they might try using their AC buzzbox
or not guess right on which clamp is positive.?
If overcharged and/or poorly ventilated, the outgassing could have become quite dangerous.
As Andy said:???"Without automation, we become the management system - the battery is as dangerous as we are."? ?

Here's what Andy had to say about BMS's on RC aircraft batteries:
"RC batteries aren't unsafe because they don't have an i ternal BMS. In RC use, management is split between the charger on the ground (charges, controls voltage and current, and balances). In the air, the speed controller monitors battery voltage and disconnects the load. The only weakness is cell level low voltage isn't monitored (though the low voltage disconnect is conservative for that reason)."

So they keep the BMS as part of the charger, not part of the battery.? This reduces the weight of what goes up in the air, which seems ideal.? But anybody using one of those batteries (especially those charging at 25C!) should be using a BMS during charging.? The operator (or aircraft firmware) needs to be smart enough to land the thing safely before the battery expires.

Perhaps you object to this passage:
"My bench battery for the past 12 or so years was a 'naked' 4S 10 Ah LiFePO4 pack made from PSI cells. I didn't worry about low voltage monitoring because I seldom discharged to 50%. I connected to an analogue BMS when charging with my bench PSU."

So about the same as the RC battery, he charged with a BMS, and was careful not to discharge too far.? Discharging to zero might ruin the battery, but would not be dangerous.? Doesn't say if he fused it to limit the maximum current, but that's about the only additional safety measure I'd recommend.

Jerry, KE7ER


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

 

The first thing needed is FRN so payment is possible when needed.
Renewal is done via ULS and last check was free.
ULS is the way to all things FCC for licensing and such.

Not an expert only do it about once every 10 years.

Allison
------------------
Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket.


Re: Another battery question

 

Never hand a hammer to someone that's never used one they will hurt
themselves, usually applied to many tools.

Technology masks the hazards but can and often do make us safer.
So to me the idea of low battery go home makes sense as it performs
battery protection and reduces other hazards.

Never said BMS/BMB were he only way just its common and most
cases its the way to do it.? As someone that flew electric models
and real aircraft sudden fan stops make for much sweat.


Allison
------------------
Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket.


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

 

Yup, I know somebody with a license expiring in a couple months.
Thanks!


On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 08:28 AM, N2MS wrote:
Don' t be sorry. This is relevant information.


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

 

Joe,

Don' t be sorry. This is relevant information.

Thanks,

Mike N2MS

On 11/26/2022 9:41 AM Joe Bratton via groups.io <firechapln@...> wrote:


Sorry, I posted this to the wrong group, please ignore if you wish.


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

 

No, Thanks Joe! Gets more confusing by the day..

73
KC8CKZ

On Sat, Nov 26, 2022, 9:41 AM Joe Bratton via <Firechapln=[email protected]> wrote:
Sorry, I posted this to the wrong group, please ignore if you wish.?


Re: Navigating the FCC licensing system

Joe Bratton
 

Sorry, I posted this to the wrong group, please ignore if you wish.?


Navigating the FCC licensing system

Joe Bratton
 

Hello all. I decided to start this thread to tell you what I know about the current system used by the FCC for new licenses, renewals, upgrades and modifications. I am not a subject matter expert nor have I used the system to renew yet. I am a Volunteer Examiner and regularly see/hear the system explained to exam candidates and I also have helped my XYL navigate through the system for her license.?
First, there are two parts to the system CORES and ULS. Simply, CORES is the part that takes your money, ULS is the part that handle the management of your license. Both are US Government web sites and do not have easy graphic user interfaces. To add to the complexity, there was an older version of CORES which became outdated on JULY 15 when the newer version came on line. As far as I can tell, information from the OLD system did not migrate to the new, hence the notices to go create a new user name and password prior this past July 15. If you did not do so, you will need to go to the NEW system and register plus create a user name and password. You can check availability for each on the web page for the new CORES. Here is the link for that:



One MUST HAVE piece of information is a current, working e-mail address! Also, keep in mind info does not migrate from CORES to ULS so just because you have it in one does not mean it is in the other. Tracking??
Ok, if you have CORES registered and your user name/password work, then let's proceed to the ULS (Universal Licensing System). Here is the URL for the Universal Licensing System:



Here are the instruction straight from the FCC page:

Renew your license through the??(ULS) at any time within 90 days of the expiration date for the license and up to two years after the license expires.

To renew, go to the ULS Home, select Online Filing, and follow the instructions below.

  1. Login to the ULS License Manager with your FCC Registration Number (FRN).
  2. From your License At A Glance page, choose the Renew link in the right hand menu called Work on this License. When your license is within the renewal period of 90 days before the expiration date until the expiration date, or within the 2 year grace period allowed there after the Renew link will appear. If your license is not eligible for renewal the link will not appear.
  3. On the Select Updates page, review the licensee information displayed beneath the table of license information. If any of the data is missing or out of date you must update it. Click on the box to the left of the Licensee Information heading to insert a checkbox and select it.
  4. When ready click Continue.
  5. Answer the questions on the Applicant Questions page, and click Continue when ready.
  6. On the Licensee Information page, review and update all of your licensee information. Make any corrections that are necessary.
  7. On the Summary page review the information you have entered. If you wish to make additional changes, click the Edit button next to the section of your application you wish to Edit. You will be able to return to that page of the application. Make the desired change and select the Return to Summary button.
  8. When ready to submit your update to the Commission, choose the Continue to Certify button.
  9. After reading the certification, enter your first and last names in the boxes at the bottom of the page. You MUST sign the application. When finished choose the Submit Application button.
  10. From the ULS Confirmation screen, we recommend you print a copy of your application and/or the Confirmation screen itself from your web browser.

Note: The address and contact information you have entered in CORES registration will not be automatically associated with your licenses. To change the address or other contact information on your license, you must update your information in ULS.

(Joe again here): When your renewal is ready to be processed, you will receive an email containing a link for you to pay the $35 fee. DO NOT use a smart phone to pay the fee, use a regular laptop or PC. There have been reports of issues with people using smart phones to pay the fee, so avoid that.?
Ok, I hope this helps, I'm sorry if it's complex, but I didn't create it and don't necessarily endorse it, it just "is what it is!"?
To summarize, if you haven't registered in the NEW CORES system, you need to. If you are within 90 days of expiration, you can renew by registering in CORES and then going to the ULS and following the instructions above.?
Thanks and Good Luck!?
73,
Joe
AA5AD


Re: Another battery question

 

Andy,

Thanks for your comments.?

I would suggest that RC battery packs without BMS are unsafe in the hands of people that don't understand the technology.? For example, there's nothing to prevent someone from overcharging them by using the wrong kind of charger.? Over-charging can cause thermal runaway and result in fire.? Even on the right charger, if someone doesn't appreciate the need to balance the cells, one or more cells may eventually become seriously over-charged.

I build multi-rotor RC helicopters for a living.? I don't know of any that disconnect the load when the battery drops below a certain voltage.? In my view, that would present another safety risk when the aircraft falls out of the sky.? In my early days of flying electric aircraft, there weren't suitable Li-Po batteries and chargers available, so we used Milwaukee V28 tool batteries.? However, we stripped out the BMS so that they couldn't shut off in-flight.? Ultimately, we removed the 7 individual V28 cells to assemble our own 3S and 4S battery packs.? Today, my flight controllers start the aircraft toward home at a certain low voltage threshold and land it if the voltage drops below the next threshold.? ? ? ?

Cheers,
Don
? ?


Re: Commercial Linear amplifiers for UBITX6 and other QRP transceivers...

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

For those wanting good cheap amplifiers, join the ¡°AmateurRadioBuilders¡± groups.io group. ?They are just in the process of releasing two power cubes that are 1) flat in gain (+0/-0.3 dB) from 1-54 Mhz, use 12V Mosfets that are stockpiled, put out 10-20watts (you set it) with 1 mW of drive, and 2) a higher power 12v module 1-54 Mhz with similar flat gain and driven by 8 watts to 110 watts out. ?Small module you can build for under $30 and the big one for under $90. ?Yes drive the big one with the small one. ?Also being developed is a filter board/ swr-power/ pin diode switching for 100W. ?Part of the T41 project¡­


MRM

?


On Nov 22, 2022, at 9:35 PM, Dan Eggers N7DE <N7DE@...> wrote:

?
The kit for $209.00 looks all OK to me, but I would like to know how much soldering does it require for someone who has not been soldering for 57 years like I have been doing.? Other than that, it looks like a winner to me.

? ? ? ? ? 73, Dan, N7DE

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Faivre <wa9sgd@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2022 8:51 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Commercial Linear amplifiers for UBITX6 and other QRP transceivers...
?
That is probably due the name of it is Hardrock rather than Softrock

here is the link:?
--
John Faivre?WA9SGD

--

¡­_. _._


Re: sBitx #sBitx PA MOD Plan #sBitx

 

I would add a bunch more pictures. ?I think that is the plan but here are some suggestions:

  • Use a pointer or screw driver to identify various resistors and capacitors.
  • Create very close pictures illustrating the technique of transistor removal.
  • Create very close pictures illustrating the technique of resistor/capacitor removal.
  • Show T/R board in detail with mounting location(s) and wiring dress.
  • Show RTC similarity.
  • Show enclosure disassembly/assembly in multiple pictures.
I think many can figure out how to do this without pictures but it is always better to over deliver.

My two cents worth¡­

?


Re: software for cat and microphone control for ubitxv6

 

I have my own raspberry pi and also proxmox vm through which I passthrough the soundcard and usb cable for wsjt-x. However, I want something for SSB phone as well.


Re: uBitx #ubitx

 

SUNIL,

Twisted wires on the core are closer coupled and more uniform, helps to have that.
By closer coupled the coupling from from any one wire to the other two is? then
assured to be as possible to 1.? Having that be predictable is critical to circuit
design and uniformity.

The untwisted(yellow cores with added color) in the picture are not transformers
those are inductors of some specific value.

Hope that clears up what you are seeing.


Allison
------------------
Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket.


Re: sBitx #sBitx PA MOD Plan #sBitx

 

Scott,

As is I'm not a primary on this and certainly not a stake holder so any answer
I give is based on my best engineering opinion.

My call would be to not make more of this board revision and spin a new
one with all the alterations in place.? Not a cheap thing to do.? So the result
of any mods done have to be evaluated first to see if they largely solve the
big issues.? The expectation is they will.? How many can install said changes
may be limited.? Those are only development units.

Reading the document also makes clear there is material to be assembled
and shipped to the existing developers.? That's not a trivial task.

As is I've done a lot of alteration to get to some level of stability and much
of it mirrors the work being done by others.? ITs interesting and also an
experience.

Christmas, unlikely but sometimes, it can happen.? Here's to wishing.


Allison
------------------
Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket.


Re: Another battery question

 

Some addendums to my suggesting the use of a Gooloo 2000 for portable power.

First off, the reviews all suggest it does well for the intended purpose of starting?
a vehicle that has a low battery.? And that it is reasonably safe.

I just measured mine, it weights about 1.4 lbs, not the 3 lbs they give
as the shipping weight with packaging and accessories.

The Amazon webpage for it says it's a "2000 Amp Car Battery Jump Starter",
Lettering on the device says "500A(3s) 400A(5s) 2000A Peak".
Amazon price at $69.99 is suddenly cheaper than Walmart, that changed since yesterday.

They claim 19800 milliamp hours.
I would read that as 19800 mAh worth of 3.7 Volt cells,
so divide by four and it is roughly 5 Amp-hours at 3.7*4=14.8 Volts.
This is typical of all the other auto jump start devices, they all have to play
the same game or they lose their mostly naive customers.
The Gooloo also says it is 73 Watt-hours, which checks since 73Wh/14.8V = 4.93 Amp-hours.

It does have a port on it with lettering that says "15V 10A", I haven't yet used it.
That port has a standard 5.5mm coaxial power connector with a 2.1mm pin.
Nice that it's a standard connector, but those are?typically rated for a max of 5 Amps.
If you want much more current than that, perhaps best off using the provided
jump cable and appropriate fusing.?
Output voltage will typically be between 15 and 12 VDC depending on charge state.

Not bad.
73 Watt-hours means you could run a rig drawing 10 Watts continuously
for 7.3 hours.? ?Adequate for most ham QRP outings.
Or a rig drawing 400*12=4800 Watts for 5 seconds, at which point the battery would overheat and shut down.
Or maybe start your car some dark night.

That 10 Ah Lumenier that Don pointed to has almost exactly twice the claimed capacity,
? ? 10 Ah at 14.8 Volts would be 148 Watt-hours.
The Lumenier is also double the price, and that does not include a proper charger with BMS for it.
However, the Lumenier should run a 3700 Watt rig for 2.4 minutes, which could actually be useful.
And might start a small car in a pinch, though be careful as it probably doesn't have overcurrent protection.

Jerry, KE7ER



On Wed, Nov 23, 2022 at 06:08 PM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:

Speaking of fast discharging, it is amazing how well the new breed of auto jump start
batteries work.? I have a Gooloo 2000 which I rather like.? In addition to being able to
jump start an F250 diesel, it has a 15V 10Amp port out the side to run a small transceiver.
It charges slowly through a USB-C port.? Fast discharge is not possible unless you
plug the jump start cable into the side of the pack.? Includes a flashlight and several
USB power out ports.? ?Weighs 3 lbs.? Walmart sells it for $78.? Might save your bacon
if you leave the headlights on while?working Parks-On-The-Air.? Using the battery off a
shop tool also makes good sense to me.? Why buy an extra battery for ham gear
when you can make use of a battery that is used for other purposes?? A high volume
consumer product is often cheaper than a niche product.


Re: Another battery question

 

Don,

That Lumenier is a 10 Amp-hour battery, nominally 14.8 Volts.?
Rated for 25C, which means a maximum current of (10 Amp-hour) * 25C = 250 Amps,
where the 25C has the rather odd units of Amps per Amp-Hour.
So it can fully discharge that battery in (60 minutes)/25 = 2.4 minutes,
with a power of? ? 250 Amps * 14.8 Volts = 3700 Watts.
A 3700 Watt appliance would blow fuses at 120 VAC, you would need a 240 VAC outlet.
If you insist on moving that much power in and out of such a package weighing 0.845 kilo,
that is inherently dangerous.? But that's what the RC aircraft guys feel they need.?
When an aircraft is taking off it needs a burst of power, much more than when cruising along
in even flight.? The battery has to be as light as possible.? And when they land with a
depleted battery, they want?to recharge it as quickly as possible (in this case around 2.4 minutes,
assuming the max charge rate is the same as the discharge rate of 25C)
That way they can get it back up in the air again for more fun.? So they really are wanting to
move 3700 Watts in and out of that battery.? That's inherently unsafe, and why vendors also
sell a "Lipo Safe Bag" to hold the somewhat expected explosion when charging at 3700 Watts.

However, if you take that same product and charge/discharge at 10 Amps,?and have an
appropriate BMS hooked up when charging, there is very little danger of an explosion.
Just make sure you don't short out those two roughly 1 cm diameter copper cables.
Same applies to the starting battery in your car, not far from all that gasoline.

Jerry, KE7ER



On Fri, Nov 25, 2022 at 07:11 AM, Don LeRoi wrote:
The common brick lithium battery packs are the least safe because they are very vulnerable to abuse.? That is:? over-charging, over-discharging, shorting, puncturing, and failure to balance the cells.? These are the battery packs that have a main power lead and a balancing connector:


Re: Another battery question

 

Very cool, Jerry!? It sounds lime you've a good handle on things there!? I agree that commercial and most DIY BMS have wimpy shunts. I expect you already know that you likely don't need to shunt often, especially with your very conservative voltage settings.? (For yet another tangent, the Smart ev and my current Outlander PHEV both have similar 250 mA-ish shunts. It takes a couple of cycles, or a day plugged in, but the battery will eventually balance. I seldom care, tho, as that extra 1/10 of a mile range isn't usually an issue hihi).

You're right that there's no point to charging cells to 100% - especially the ones like LFP that carry most of their energy at a lower voltage. It'll definitely reduce the cycle life.

(From Thundersky-Winston, for example - operational voltage is 3.8, though charge/discharge tests run to 4.0 V.? I used to set shunts to 3.65 and charge to 3.6. Shunts didn't activate until a cell got weak.



Ok, the wind is back - time to sail.

73 all
? Andy